Quote:
Originally Posted by StradaRedlands
I would call that the proper way to do an upgrade! I like it!!!
Do you have any sort of a parts list that you used?
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OEM parts:
Cooler: 17217572542*
Cooler to frame bolt: 07129904819
Driver side bracket: 17117583119
Bracket bolts: 41617068715 (x2)
Dampening element between bracket and cooler: 17117575251 (x2)
F30 (NOT F80) thermostat housing: 11427637052 (F30 has 110*C thermostat, F80 has 116*C)***
*Ideally, you want to find a used cooler that comes with part numbers 17117575253 and 17117575250 attached. I haven't seen many listings on ebay that
don't include them, so likely a fringe concern. You also REALLY want to find a cooler that has the original oil lines attached, such as this:
Since you'll be adapting the original lines with barb to AN 10. If you cannot find the lines chopped already, the part numbers are 17227636941 and 17227636940. That said, it's really expensive to buy the lines on their own, so I wouldn't do this retrofit unless you can find a cooler with the chopped lines already. Funnily enough, the one pictured doesn't come with part numbers 17117575253 and 17117575250 attached lol. If you buy one without those items attached, JUST buy P/N 17117575253. It comes with the rubber isolators usually.
Non-OEM parts:
Black Silicone Coolant Bypass Cap, 5/8 inch ID to cap off the coolant pipe that originally supplied coolant to oil/coolant heat exchanger (near/behind the coolant thermostat)
AN10 to 5/8 barb. Make sure to lube up the barb soften the hose via boiling to make sure they fully seat. You don't want a leak.
AN 10 120 degree swivel hose end fittings female (x2). You might need different angles depending on if you decide to go over the big radiator hose, or under it. I chose to go over it.
10 feet of AN 10 line rated for engine oil. Nylon braided is cheaper, but steel braided is more abrasion resistant, and given the custom nature of this, if I had to do it again I'd get steel braided and just sheath them in braided sleeving for the stealthy look without sacrificing abrasion resistance.
AN 10 straight/90/whatever angle you need female hose end to connect AN 10 line to the barb adapters. I say whatever angle because this will depend on where your barb adapters are relative to where the hose needs to go.
N55 oil cooler thermostat housing to AN 10 adapter. For some reason, weirdly hard to find right now. Here's the annoying part. The N55/S55 oil cooler thermostat housing mounting "hole" isn't threaded at all, so you need a really long bolt to through bolt the adapter through the top of the housing, essentially sandwiching the adapter to the housing by pulling it "up". The only adapter I can find that already comes with this fact in mind is the
Mishimoto one, but it's hella expensive for what it is.
You can see how the N54 one is threaded***. I somehow managed to snag one for $17, likely due to pricing error, but the
LineRacing** one will likely work with a minor modification. Just find a bolt long enough that fits the housing and LineRacing adapter, and then use a nut. If the thermostat housing hole is large enough for a M8 bolt, it might be easier to just drill and tap the LineRacing hole to accept a M8 bolt.
**As always with cheapo parts, I'd upgrade the orings that come with it to something from a more reputable brand. Ideally a viton one. There's a lot of reports of the orings provided leaking.
***As another alternative, thermostat housing 11427573212 may be able to be used, allowing the LineRacing adapter to be used with no modifications or messing about. It was intended for the 6 series F cars, and I don't really know if it has any real functional differences, but you can see that that the "tail" portion of the this one is slightly different. I haven't used it, so YMMV.
6 series version:
3 series version:
I'll write a proper guide one day, but currently too busy with school. Finals are coming
