Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_in_Calgary
Conclusion:
If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).
Solution:
1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted; b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ½ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels. When I unlocked the doors I immediately heard the gear drive going backwards and forwards (the EMF test cycle was being run). The best part, the “Parking Brake Malfunction” notice in my dash was GONE! (No code reader/clearing necessary).
|
To clarify - none of the other guides suggest doing this, is this because it's only necessary if you accidentally trigger a test sequence whilst doing the job?
So provided you leave the car locked with the ignition off this extra step shouldn't be necessary and you only need to wind the EMF gear as part of removal process not as part of the refitting process?
Also on some of the videos I've seen people are replacing what look like the hex bolts. Is this necessary?