Quote:
Originally Posted by TShoot
Mr Clean,
First off, all I can say is WOW!. Your car looks amazing and I can't even imagine trying to change a downpipe without having a garage. I've done my own exhaust work before and swore I would never do it again. So kudos for all of that.
Plus, all of the detailing knowledge is amazing.
Thanks for all the kind words and support, I really appreciate your input! Its a full time job to up keep my car to my exacting standards but totally worth it whenever I look at it outside my window 
I have a couple of quick questions.
I love questions!
Does NYC have emission inspections? If so, wouldn't you automatically fail because of the lack of mufflers (in believe you said you were going to re-install the catted downpipe)
Yes NYC does have inspections that must be taken yearly. Unlike other states, shops generally do not go looking for "missing" components unless it is apparently obvious or throwing a specific code. Of course this varies from shop to shop, since some are over zealous and search for things as small as zipties holding rubber boots while others do a less thorough check. To answer your question directly however, having a muffler deleted would not be automatic grounds for inspection failure. If the muffler is missing altogether (as in it rusted off or there is excessive noise and no tail pipe present such as with "shorty mufflers" or "cut outs") they will fail on the grounds of a missing component. But generally speaking, any pipe that extends from the from the front of the car to the rear completely without overly obvious signs of alteration won't bother most shops.
Additionally, the muffler is not an "emission control" component as its main function is to be a noise reduction component and thus serves a less significant role in reducing emissions by definition of NYS law. The CAT aka Catalylic Converter aka downpipe is the most important component of the exhaust emissions control since it converts toxic exhaust gases directly exiting the engine's exhaust manifold and entering the CAT to less toxic gases that are suitable enough the be reintroduced into the atmosphere. The three main exhaust gases that are toxic to the environment are Nitrogen oxides (NOX) Carbon monoxide (aka the silent killer - CO) and Hydrocarbons (HC) that may or may not have been burned off completely during the combustion cycle. When these gases enter the primary layer of the catalytic converter which is comprised of a series of honey comb like plates pressed together into a block, the Platinum and Rhodium (which comprise these honey comb plates) force the gases to undergo a transformation while passing through (thus restricting exhaust flow in the process as the pores in the blocks are small and tightly pressed together in order to capture the harmful gases). After undergoing the first part of the transformation, the gases are then subjected to a second transformation by passing through a second block structured similarly to the first except the material that comprise it are Platinum and Palladium. This then transforms the once harmful exhaust gases into more environmentally safe Water Vapor (H2o), Carbon dioxide (C02) and Nitrogen (N2). The resonator and muffler, the other two components of the exhaust system, serve a primary purpose of reducing the sound waves that are emitted with the toxic gases exiting the exhaust manifold through the transformation process of the CAT to remove the deepest sound waves first then residual deep tones and midtones (respectively) thereafter to a more manageable sound level thus reducing sound pollution not air pollution or emissions.
Are you out of warranty with BMW? Because I thought having no mufflers would cause issues (as above, I thought you said you were going re-install the catted downpipe and remove the JB4 tune before going in).
I am still in warranty with BMW until late October of 2015, and took my car in for service 2 times with the JB4, downpipe, intake and muffler delete without issue. The reality of the warranty situation is BMW or any car manufacturer offering a warranty that agrees to cover certain components such as BMW does, has the burden of proof to show a direct attribution to the issue at hand with the modification in question. I'm sure you heard of people complaining about issues such as installing HIDs and going in for a misfire and the dealership refusing to cover ignition coils or injectors or what have you on that premise. Those stories are hyper inflated and simply spreading bad information. Perhaps if during the HID install the car owner cut a wire that regulates the ignition coil or injector thus causing the issue, they would indeed be held liable for creating that circumstance. The most the dealer can do is void the warranty for that specific part or portion(s) of the component's "greater system" IF and only IF an issue arises and you bring the car to them requesting warranty coverage. In some cases, the dealer would refuse to work on the car since mods are installed, and charge you a diagnostic fee and/or labor for removing the mod(s) less the work provided for free under warranty. To help illustrate, take this simple example: You (as a citizen who has certain irrevocable rights such as the right to a public defender and fair and speedy trial) cannot be proven guilty or condemned to having committed a crime or violation against the law or your fellow man unless the case is brought before a court and the legal proceedings take place. The key to all of this is the prosecutor (be it a government entity if a crime or violation is committed against society or plaintiff if it is another individual as with torts- an infringement on the right of your fellow man where one suffers a loss or detriment at the benefit of another- ) carries the "burden of proof" to prove that you did indeed commit the crime or violation in question. That's why in the courts of law the accused is the defendant (defending their innocence as it were in relation to said crime / violation) and the plaintiff is the accuser or party which initiates the claim. You would be the defendant and the dealership would have spend many hours and dollars to legitimately prove that they dont have to cover a part or parts that you have no obligation to pay for (unless entered into a contract) or have no willingness to pay. Some people would say "Hey, its not worth it get my car fixed here at the dealer so take your $145 diagnostic fee and I'll go somewhere else" In the mean while, the dealer might've spent $10,000 proving you contributed to your car's issue and you spent $145 for the diag fee and probably $500 for an attorney to contact the dealer and draft a letter or two. Anyhow, In the case of the dealership refusing to warranty parts of the car that haven't been modded or altered such as the sound system or fuel system (in relation to the first example given) they are outside the bounds of the law and an attorney can help immensely. Be warned however, BMW's legal team is enormous! So to answer your question directly, no, having the forementioned mods installed did not cause an issue between the dealership and myself. If all else fails I have second warranty that happens to be very good 
Wouldn't removing your mufflers cause you to lose low-end torque? Maybe not noticeable with the JB4 tune and MAP your are running. I agree with you that spending $1.5K to $3K on an exhaust system seems excessive. But, some people have the disposable income and like the sound. I would like to get the sound but not spend a couple thousand to get it.
[To make this response less wordy, try to keep in mind what I stated earlier about the exhaust gases slowing during the process of becoming less harmful in the CAT]. I'm sure you heard its better to have a free flowing exhaust system to help evacuate the exhaust gases as fast as possible to make more "room" for the increased gases that will exit after the combustion cycle. This is true to an extent. In general, you want the exhaust gases to leave the manifold (through the exhaust system) at a fast yet steady rate of speed or velocity so that there won't be too much pressure building as the clean air enters the combustion chamber, ignites with fuel and the intake value is shut while the exhaust value is open to push the spent fuel and gas out to the manifold. The "steady" part is underlined since back pressure helps to steady the flow stream by excerting a resistant pressure against the outflow of the exhaust gases. But what does that mean? Take a perfect example from your own body. As your reading this try to carry out this exercise; open your mouth as wide as you can (for those of you thinking negatively this is for you  ) and try to breathe in and out as fast as you can (make sure you don't do this at work/crowded places or you'll end up looking like a buffoon lol). Did you notice that despite the equal amount of air you breathed in and out you were still almost out of breath each breathing cycle and that the only benefit you saw was that you felt better exhaling quicker than inhaling? Right! There is not enough resistance or back pressure to help steady the inflow of air to inhale and outflow of air as you exhale. Liken this to putting the biggest diameter exhaust pipe on your car. Sure you'll feel the power at the top end since the exhaust gases are moving out so quickly in response to the increased combustion cycles but they fail to let the gases out as quickly on the lower end of the spectrum (lower RPM) and as a result leading to not only a slower velocity of air exiting the system, but the chance that more of the air gets "reingested" to the cylinder thus reducing the effectiveness of the burn cycle. Finally consider the breathing techniques runners and weightlifters are told to practice while performing; breathing in from the nose and out through slowly through the mouth. This helps to provide much needed resistance for inhalation and exhalation, while helping the Carbon to exit the body in a quick yet steady manner which wouldn't risk collapsing the lungs. This is all said to prove a couple points:
- In turbo'd cars, the less resistance the better since the turbo creates its own resistance by using the exhaust gases or waste energy to spin its turbines which effectively turn a shaft connected between the turbine (lubricated by oil from the engine) and compressor wheel, which from that point the compressor wheel draws in clean air to be compressed from a high velocity low pressure stream to low velocity high pressure which is then cooled and introduced to the combustion cyclinder to make power.
- The downpipe is the best and most effective way to reduce exhaust pressure for the reasons I stated both in the previous question's response above and earlier here
and
- The muffler's primary purpose is to reduce sound levels and if removed, they don't have the same effect on affecting backpressure as with NA (Naturally Aspirated) car meaning no loss of torque. Of course a dyno better and after would be ideal.
Also, how did you remove the badges from your car (535i and x-drive). What method did you use and what would be the best way to re-attach them if you were going to sell it?
To remove the badges I used clear dental floss between the badges and the paint, carefully moving side to side (as if flossing) and downwards to separate to effectively "cut" the badges off. After that I took a pair of rubber ended tweezers and a magnifying glass to remove the small pieces of residual glue, after which I used Meg 105 compound and a orange pad followed by megs 205 ultra finishing polish with a white pad and finally 3m's ultrafine with a blue pad to polish the area. Im sure the new badges come with a sticky adhesive based backing on which to reattach them to the paint. All i'd need to do is be careful with my placement and measure an appropriate distance correctly.
I like what you did just not sure I could get away with it in MD.
Thanks for sharing of the great info! |
Your welcome and have a great holiday!