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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions DIY Oil Change F10 5-series (N55 motor)
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      08-15-2010, 03:20 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Mr. Magic View Post
I noticed plug washer I pulled off seems to be aluminum instead of copper that I put back on. Fooled me for second since I was expecting a copper washer and the aluminum washer - which blended in with the engine bottom - was still stuck after oil drain and had to be removed with the help of a screwdriver.
Don't think the washer is that big of a deal. FWIW, I bot some extra washers and they were all copper.

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Originally Posted by Mr. Magic View Post
The draining was a little messier than I anticipated with the bottom plug. I thought I'd lower the car only after awhile when it started to drip. But, as the oil draining slows down, it starts to adhere to the bottom of the engine and starts going toward the back of the car and then drips onto the bottom cover shield making a mess.
If you have the car high up on ramps, that can happen. Next time, try and open the oil cap first, so the flow can be more even. Or you can try and place the drain pan closer to the drain hole, by placing a box under the pan.

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The most important step - after the jack stand safety backup - is the adult beverage at end. Need to think about some tangible short term reward for yourself. Up here in N. Calif., it tends to be a good glass of wine..
I'm a Napa Cabernet kinda guy.
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      08-15-2010, 11:04 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by gatoman39 View Post
If you have the car high up on ramps, that can happen. Next time, try and open the oil cap first, so the flow can be more even. Or you can try and place the drain pan closer to the drain hole, by placing a box under the pan.
Maybe I didn't explain too well. The oil, when it slows down draining, starts to run out the hole and along the bottom of the engine block, kinda of like a leaky roof where the water runs along the ceiling from surface tension and drops down elsewhere (and in my case, almost always in places hard to see or reach.) In this case, "elsewhere" is the bottom ground shield (whatever they call the black soft panel hanging below the car) about 6 inches away from the drain plug and hard to wipe or clean, sort of like a ship bilge area. So, while I have a large drain pan and catch it anyway, the dirty oil goes places I don't want it in the car "bilge".

I think simply lowering the car down within 3 or 4 minutes after removing the drain plug is the way to ensure the drain plug remains the lowest point and the oil doesn't meander around, and your instructions actually called this out. I had oil cap on, but filter cap off.

Thanks again; I enjoyed driving the F10 today on Highway-1 (practicing my passing on a 2-lane/way road) a little more aggressively since I was past break-in and it was a great feeling to know the oil was sparkling clean while seeing things I passed disappear in my rear view mirror riding in total luxury.
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      08-18-2010, 07:11 AM   #47
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Not everyone can do this, but I am fortunate in that I have a side parking pad that is on a slight incline. Therefore I can put the car up on ramps and at that point the car is basically level. So I can leave it up there while draining the oil. It makes life much simpler.

If you do your own oil change, you can pay for the tools required with only one or two changes (depending on how badly your dealer likes to stick it to you). My local dealer gives a 10 or 15 percent BMWCCA discount which is great because they sell their crap at 10 to 15 percent OVER BMW suggested retail. Buggers. I buy all my parts at BavAuto, including filters. Oil is cheapest at Costco although they are dead to me (long story) so I go to BJs. Don't go to Sam's because they are part of Wal-Mart which is the devil. Seriously.
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      01-08-2011, 02:25 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by gatoman39 View Post
Not sure that you can turn off the teleservice requests. The IDrive does not recognize the fact that an oil change was performed and does not reset itself. I think the dealer has to reset the interval. I was hoping to address this 2 years down the road when the free dealer performed oil change is due.
I did my own oil change not too long ago. The mileage did not reset itself. Did you notice if the Oil Service due date changed? I could have sworn that it changed from May 2011 to May 2012, but my mind may be playing a trick on me. If you don't mind looking, what does your Oil Service due date indicate, approx. one year out from the car's in service date or two years out from the in service date?
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      01-08-2011, 02:50 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Auto Pilot View Post
I did my own oil change not too long ago. The mileage did not reset itself. Did you notice if the Oil Service due date changed? I could have sworn that it changed from May 2011 to May 2012, but my mind may be playing a trick on me. If you don't mind looking, what does your Oil Service due date indicate, approx. one year out from the car's in service date or two years out from the in service date?
I have done 2 oil changes on my car. the date for the next oil change remains the same which is the manufacture date +2 years. The only thing that seems to change is the mileage due date which got extended 2k miles after the second oil change.
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      01-08-2011, 02:53 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by gatoman39 View Post
I have done 2 oil changes on my car. the date for the next oil change remains the same which is the manufacture date +2 years. The only thing that seems to change is the mileage due date which got extended 2k miles after the second oil change.
Thank you, that's very helpful information!
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      01-14-2011, 01:53 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by gatoman39 View Post
I've seen that before. I'm not gonna try it simply because I actually want the dealer to change the oil at the 15k/2 year mark, which ever comes first. I'm gonna do another oil change at 4k miles and get the oil analyzed to see what the story is with this engine.
Hey Gato! Did you ever get the oil analyzed at 4k?
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      01-14-2011, 10:30 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by hp20252 View Post
Hey Gato! Did you ever get the oil analyzed at 4k?
No, I didn't. I will at the next one which will be 10k miles. This guy with an N55 motor did, it's the first N55 UOA i've ever seen:
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      01-20-2011, 03:51 PM   #53
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Hmm trying to interpret his comment, he noted high metal and silicon, but then said oil looks good for another 3500 miles? So does it mean oil quality is good but there are alot of metals and other materials in there and is worth changing out?
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      01-20-2011, 06:31 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by hp20252 View Post
Hmm trying to interpret his comment, he noted high metal and silicon, but then said oil looks good for another 3500 miles? So does it mean oil quality is good but there are alot of metals and other materials in there and is worth changing out?
He notes
"Aluminum and iron are high"
Silicon is usually high on inline BMW 6's, but this one looks ok so far. The oil was only run 1300 miles, so the company suggests to run the next oil 3500 and retest.
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      01-20-2011, 10:10 PM   #55
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Ah gotcha =)
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      04-02-2011, 01:47 PM   #56
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Just doing mine on my '11 535xi @ 2,100km (around 1,200 miles). There is no cover underneath for the drain bolt, and the shroud under the drain pan is silver aluminum compared to yours which is black plastic.

I guess this is some kind of skid plate?

I also noticed that the filter is tiny. It must be 1/3 the size of my previous 330ci.

Filling with 7 qts of German Castrol 0w-30.
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      04-02-2011, 02:28 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Jim_in_Calgary View Post
Just doing mine on my '11 535xi @ 2,100km (around 1,200 miles). There is no cover underneath for the drain bolt, and the shroud under the drain pan is silver aluminum compared to yours which is black plastic.

I guess this is some kind of skid plate?

I also noticed that the filter is tiny. It must be 1/3 the size of my previous 330ci.

Filling with 7 qts of German Castrol 0w-30.
pictures? Love GC, I hear it's much more expensive in Canada for some reason.
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      04-02-2011, 03:05 PM   #58
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pictures? Love GC, I hear it's much more expensive in Canada for some reason.
Not any more expensive than anything else.

Everything costs more in Canada for no particular reason at all. A university of Michigan study on why concluded that it was because Canadians have gotten used to paying more for things.

If you're into GC, then you'll be impressed that this oil change was out of my dwindling stash of (now 33L) Green GC. Can't get it anymore.

By the way, I only have one jack and the ramps I have used for other cars are too steep for the 5ers low front bumper. The solution was to jack each side up high enough, place a ramp-stand under each front wheel and lower the car onto the ramps. Just another option for those without 2 jacks.
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      04-02-2011, 03:15 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Jim_in_Calgary View Post
If you're into GC, then you'll be impressed that this oil change was out of my dwindling stash of (now 33L) Green GC. Can't get it anymore.
Yeah, I've heard of green GC, but have never seen it, kinda like unicorns or the tooth fairy. I guess they stopped making it a while ago.
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      06-14-2011, 12:32 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by gatoman39 View Post
No, I didn't. I will at the next one which will be 10k miles. This guy with an N55 motor did, it's the first N55 UOA i've ever seen:


Interesting report. As far as viscosity, this oil has sheared a fair amount. If I'm not mistaken BMW's 5w-30

SUS viscosity 210F starts at 12.2 and its CST @ 100C starts @ 66. In other words, the BMW synth starts out as a heavyweight 30wt, but this sample shows significant thinning. Still in grade, but on the thin end of the spectrum. Thinning is often a result of fuel dilution, which these BMW turbo engines are known for (also noticeable in the black deposits on my 535's exhaust tips). Another indicator of fuel dilution is the manganese number (a gasoline additive) of 5, which is fairly high for a sub 2k mile run.

This is why I don't anticipate running my oil out to the recommendation of the oil life monitor. I'll probably sampe at 5k miles on my second oil change interval (changed originally at 1200 miles) for a total of 6k miles on the car mostly to see who the viscosity is holding up and where the fuel dilution markers like Manganese sit.

We'll see how my green GC holds up in this fuel diluter.

Gatoman, are you active on the BITOG site?
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      06-14-2011, 02:16 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Jim_in_Calgary View Post

Gatoman, are you active on the BITOG site?
Yes. Mostly on GC & european oils.
I'm getting my 1 year low mileage free oil change on friday so I won't be able to do a UOA.

My current OCI on 2011 535i:
1. 1000 miles - Dump factory fill replace with GC
2. 4000 miles - GC
3. 8200 miles - BMW 5W-30
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      09-27-2011, 10:47 PM   #62
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DIY Oil Change F10 5-series (N55 motor)

I hope I am posting this correctly: the subject in the title is by Gatoman.
A very good, helpful, and clear DIY instruction. Please, I have a question:
This DIY showed the floor jack positioned at the jack point (just behind the front wheels; there is a plastic insert at the jack point). I have a 335ixdrive 2011 4dr. The picture showed also a jack stand in position.
Please, My question: Is the picture/procedure showing the floor jack raising the side at the designated jack point, and then the floor jack positioned away from the designated jack point (because the floor jack is using this location; cannot now remove the floor jack AND swap in the jack stand). The picture shows the jack stand positioned between the front wheel and the floor jack point.
I am thinking of doing this. I also have two floor jacks (the original 2ton Lincoln; made in USA; and a 2ton Compac; made in Denmark). I will chock the rear tires, engage the hand brake. Use each floor jack on front sides, at the designated jack points. I and another person will simultaneously raise the front (using both floor jacks; note: the floor jack points are both used up now). The tires are now off the floor, raised sufficiently (like on rhino ramps). I plan to place wooden blocks (the solid, kiln dried, 6" width blocks used for supporting residential outdoor wooden decks; I might have to stack several of these to obtain the height. When I have the desired height (plus a small extra height) of these wood blocks under the front tires, I plan to lower the tires onto these wood blocks, remove the floor jack, and swap in the jack stand - now, at the designated jack point. The small extra height will enable a smooth swap. I will need to calibrate the wooden block height to coincide with the jack stand engaged height.
I can leave the wood blocks with the tires resting on them, or remove them if they are obstructing. But, now the front is raised and supported by the jack stands (they are also the original Lincolns). I hope this posts correctly, and will appreciate comments/feedback. Thank you very much.
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      09-28-2011, 09:28 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by nikon_f2t View Post
Please, My question: Is the picture/procedure showing the floor jack raising the side at the designated jack point, and then the floor jack positioned away from the designated jack point (because the floor jack is using this location; cannot now remove the floor jack AND swap in the jack stand). The picture shows the jack stand positioned between the front wheel and the floor jack point.
The floor jacks are holding up the car. The jack stands are positioned at the rocker panels as back up. The procedure for the wood blocks is extraneous in my mind. I am aware you are technically supposed to use the jack stands to support the weight of car. But you are under the car for about 30 seconds, and the jack stands are there as back up.
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      07-11-2012, 01:10 PM   #64
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Question F10 Oil Change

You show the floor jack positioned under the jacking point. So where do you position the jack stands?
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      07-11-2012, 01:14 PM   #65
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Disregard previous question. Didn't scroll down far enough to see it was already asked.
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      07-11-2012, 03:50 PM   #66
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Disregard previous question. Didn't scroll down far enough to see it was already asked.
you can also place them on the cross member which is exposed in 3 places under the car perpendicular to the front tires.



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