2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10
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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions H&R Spring Install Pics and tips
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      10-20-2012, 12:59 PM   #23
ItsTheNewGuy
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Bump for after pics...
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      10-22-2012, 10:03 AM   #24
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Yes please post some pics
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      10-25-2012, 06:36 PM   #25
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Ask and you shall receive! Sorry, bad pics which don't show the drop very well...
Attached Images
  
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      10-31-2012, 07:33 PM   #26
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Any 535ix / 550ix installation photos?

Wow hammancheese,
I really like to see memebers who can use their own hands to do awesome work on their rides! I appreciate someone who has a mechanical understanding of their car and who knows that a job well done is a job you have done yourself (provided you have no bolts left over after the work! He he).

Can anyone tell me if they have access to images of a spring swap done on the AWD series of the F10/F11 ?

Unfortunately we don't get the AWD variants in Australia and Realoem just shows the generic rear wheel drive front struts!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=31&fg=10

Can anyone please direct me? Cheers
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      12-16-2012, 04:43 PM   #27
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Great write up! What kind of rims are those and the specs/offsets?

I may need your help to lower mine in SOCAL.

Is that pic from Bimmerfest?

My 650 was there at the MRR booth.

Thanks again for the write up.
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      12-16-2012, 06:56 PM   #28
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Thanks! Yup, pics were from Bimmerfest. I'm running Forgestar CF10 20x9 and 20x10.5. Sorry, I don't know the offsets but they are flush without any rubbing issues.
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      04-16-2013, 06:45 PM   #29
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Had to bring this old thread back to life..

Any one have the torque specs for the F10... im planning on ordering ACS springs from Tag Motorsports here in So Cal and will try the install with a buddy of mine.
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      04-17-2013, 04:52 AM   #30
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Thanks for the DIY , Nice wheel what tire size you running looks good
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      05-01-2013, 06:59 AM   #31
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I just changed springs on my car (Eibach ProKit), a few things that I noticed:

Using a small telescopic jack instead of a prybar to press the suspension down eased up the strut removal process immensely (after the struts have been unbolted).

I did this both front and rear. In the front I was able to "jack down" the suspension so that the lower strut cleared the lower A-arm and the strut came out real easy.

Same in the rear, which also meant that I did not have to unbolt any other parts than the strut itself.

Really easy job apart from the spring compressor tool that I used which was an endless wrench turning excercise...
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      09-22-2013, 04:45 PM   #32
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Hi, all. I recently changed out my oem springs with H&R springs and had a bit of bad luck to say the least. Mostly my fault due to rushing the process. I stripped the threads on the strut itself, easily fixed with a tap and die set though.

The real misfortune was immediately after the install and on the 2 min test drive i somehow blew my left front strut. Didnt hit any bumps or anything but after parking it back into my garage i noticed some oil dripping on to the floor. After tracing it back to the location, it was coming from the strut itself. I didnt think the lowering springs would cause that much stress on the strut but it appears that it did. Although i suspect the strut was defective or damaged somehow before i lowered the car. Anyone else encounter this issue? The install was pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. BMW in their infinite wisdom decided to change up the strut mounts which require bolts to sit into the mount as opposed to nuts which previously went over the strut bolts. The E60s setup was much easier to line up. Also the F10s strut mount (referred to as a guide mount) is made of aluminum which makes it very easy to strip the threads in it.
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      09-25-2013, 11:21 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss330 View Post
I just changed springs on my car (Eibach ProKit), a few things that I noticed:

Using a small telescopic jack instead of a prybar to press the suspension down eased up the strut removal process immensely (after the struts have been unbolted).

I did this both front and rear. In the front I was able to "jack down" the suspension so that the lower strut cleared the lower A-arm and the strut came out real easy.

Same in the rear, which also meant that I did not have to unbolt any other parts than the strut itself.

Really easy job apart from the spring compressor tool that I used which was an endless wrench turning excercise...
I finally finished the front install of the ACS springs. Embarrassingly enough, it took me 5-6 hours just for the front. Squeezing the strut out was a tough process alone. I finally had to call a friend over.

How did you "jack down" the lower control assembly enough to squeeze it out?

I also thought aligning the springs in the rubber end-caps was a bit challenging. The spring compressor makes it tough to move things around. I also didn't align the top of the strut with the 3 holes for the attachment point the first time. I had to recompress and align it.

I am now nervous to tackle the rear as that is supposed to be the hard part
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      09-26-2013, 01:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDeep1 View Post
I finally finished the front install of the ACS springs. Embarrassingly enough, it took me 5-6 hours just for the front. Squeezing the strut out was a tough process alone. I finally had to call a friend over.

How did you "jack down" the lower control assembly enough to squeeze it out?

I also thought aligning the springs in the rubber end-caps was a bit challenging. The spring compressor makes it tough to move things around. I also didn't align the top of the strut with the 3 holes for the attachment point the first time. I had to recompress and align it.

I am now nervous to tackle the rear as that is supposed to be the hard part
I placed a telescopic jack between the upper wishbone and inner fender.

The rear was easier than the front

Just remember that access to the rear strut mounts are via the speakers in the rear shelf, no need to remove the entire rear shelf as some have done. Just pop out the speaker covers and remove the speakers (3 bolts).

Last edited by Boss330; 09-26-2013 at 01:46 AM.
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      09-26-2013, 02:32 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss330 View Post
I placed a telescopic jack between the upper wishbone and inner fender.

The rear was easier than the front

Just remember that access to the rear strut mounts are via the speakers in the rear shelf, no need to remove the entire rear shelf as some have done. Just pop out the speaker covers and remove the speakers (3 bolts).
Thanks brother, that is very encouraging!

Without that great telescoping jack idea, I would say the front is a 2 man job.

The rear should be a true one man job, right? I should have all the tools except a trim removal tool. I have always carefully used a flat screw driver; however, it may be time to get one now .

I am amazed at the improvement in ride quality in the front. The car rides just as comfortable; however, with a lot more confidence. Just as many have said, this is how it should have came from the factory.
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      09-28-2013, 11:54 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDeep1 View Post
Thanks brother, that is very encouraging!

Without that great telescoping jack idea, I would say the front is a 2 man job.

The rear should be a true one man job, right? I should have all the tools except a trim removal tool. I have always carefully used a flat screw driver; however, it may be time to get one now .

I am amazed at the improvement in ride quality in the front. The car rides just as comfortable; however, with a lot more confidence. Just as many have said, this is how it should have came from the factory.
So how did this turn out? You managed the rears ok?
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      09-28-2013, 03:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss330 View Post
So how did this turn out? You managed the rears ok?
Thanks for checking in brother. I actually didn't have a chance to get to it. It may be a couple of weeks before I can try again (between work and my back issues - thanks to the front install..lol).

I will definitely post an update. Thank you again, for all the help!
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      11-10-2013, 02:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
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So how did this turn out? You managed the rears ok?
I finally got the rears done. Took a couple of days . I needed a swivel to get to the top of the strut tower bolt in the back. I was actually able to take out the rear strut without removing anything else. I had to be pretty rough on the brake lines, which I know isn't the best thing. Once again, this was a 2 man job. I was able to push down on the rear wishbone to get the strut over and out.

I used a local shop this time to swap on the new springs. Kind of tricky because the spring and rubber mounts were moving as the springs were shorter. Made it very tricky to reinstall without the rubber seat moving out of position. Getting the top of the strut threaded back on took 2 people as I had to maneuver and hold the strut from the bottom as someone screwed on the nuts from the top.

I thought that may be the hard part, but it wasn't by a long shot. Getting the bottom of the strut (with that long bolt) to line up with the recieving knuckle was next to impossible. I spoke to a few mechanic friends and had the idea of putting on some lugs and having a heavy friend step on it (to lower the arm to hopefully meet the bottom of the strut. With jumping and all, it still wasn't enough. I than unbolted some of the inner wheel well and get a spring compressor on the strut. I compressed it a bit and than had a friend stand and jump on the hub as I was under this jacked up car. Talk about risk!! Luckily I was able to thread it in without cross-threading it or dying. Lol.

After a test drive I wish I hadn't lowered the rears. Now the car feels notably stiffer. It handles better and more confident; however, I liked the balance before. I also don't like how low the rear looks in relation to the front. I can get only 1 finger in the rear wheel well but almost 3 in the front. That is after the front springs had over 1 month and 100+ miles for break-in. Oh well, I will keep cruising and see how it goes.

One last anomaly. The rear passenger side sits 1/4" lower and the wheel gap looks less compared to the rear drivers side. Not sure what that is about .
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      11-10-2013, 04:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDeep1 View Post
I finally got the rears done. Took a couple of days . I needed a swivel to get to the top of the strut tower bolt in the back. I was actually able to take out the rear strut without removing anything else. I had to be pretty rough on the brake lines, which I know isn't the best thing. Once again, this was a 2 man job. I was able to push down on the rear wishbone to get the strut over and out.

I used a local shop this time to swap on the new springs. Kind of tricky because the spring and rubber mounts were moving as the springs were shorter. Made it very tricky to reinstall without the rubber seat moving out of position. Getting the top of the strut threaded back on took 2 people as I had to maneuver and hold the strut from the bottom as someone screwed on the nuts from the top.

I thought that may be the hard part, but it wasn't by a long shot. Getting the bottom of the strut (with that long bolt) to line up with the recieving knuckle was next to impossible. I spoke to a few mechanic friends and had the idea of putting on some lugs and having a heavy friend step on it (to lower the arm to hopefully meet the bottom of the strut. With jumping and all, it still wasn't enough. I than unbolted some of the inner wheel well and get a spring compressor on the strut. I compressed it a bit and than had a friend stand and jump on the hub as I was under this jacked up car. Talk about risk!! Luckily I was able to thread it in without cross-threading it or dying. Lol.

After a test drive I wish I hadn't lowered the rears. Now the car feels notably stiffer. It handles better and more confident; however, I liked the balance before. I also don't like how low the rear looks in relation to the front. I can get only 1 finger in the rear wheel well but almost 3 in the front. That is after the front springs had over 1 month and 100+ miles for break-in. Oh well, I will keep cruising and see how it goes.

One last anomaly. The rear passenger side sits 1/4" lower and the wheel gap looks less compared to the rear drivers side. Not sure what that is about .
Strange. I had no problems getting the rear struts on and did not encounter any of the rubber stop "moving around" bit... You did use a Unbraco/Torx tool on top of the strut while screwing on the top strut bolt, see pic below that illustrates this?

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      11-11-2013, 12:40 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss330 View Post
Strange. I had no problems getting the rear struts on and did not encounter any of the rubber stop "moving around" bit... You did use a Unbraco/Torx tool on top of the strut while screwing on the top strut bolt, see pic below that illustrates this?

A local shop swapped the spring on the strut, thus they did that. I tried tightening it that way (as I was able to do the front like that), but the rear strut doesn't have the nut exposed enough to get a wrench on it. You have to use a socket, and thus can't get an Allen wrench on it at the same time.
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      11-11-2013, 06:03 AM   #41
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One of these will do the trick....

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piec...set-67974.html
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      11-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #42
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Awesome! Wondered if that existed . Lol.

Thanks Alex!
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      11-11-2013, 08:03 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDeep1 View Post
A local shop swapped the spring on the strut, thus they did that. I tried tightening it that way (as I was able to do the front like that), but the rear strut doesn't have the nut exposed enough to get a wrench on it. You have to use a socket, and thus can't get an Allen wrench on it at the same time.
Well, I could use a wrench on my F10...

You obviously need a angled wrench not one which has a "flat" design:




Last edited by Boss330; 11-11-2013 at 08:09 AM.
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      05-01-2014, 08:29 PM   #44
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