[dbs600]

Car calling for rear brake pads needed in 30 miles.

Any way these photos do or don't show same?

If so, any recommended pads and/or retailers?

Thanks and happy motoring! :thumbup:

[ezaircon4jc]

In the reflection off the rotor the pad looks very, very thin!! I would replace ASAP!!!!

[dbs600]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

In the reflection off the rotor the pad looks very, very thin!! I would replace ASAP!!!!

Thanks for your most prompt reply.

Strange, as no sound, squealing or performance diminution. :|

[bake]

That is why you get the indicator on your dash of 30 miles. You will not notice any sound or decrease in braking performance until you go beyond the recommended distance. Personally I like Akebono pads. They give off virtually no brake dust and performance is on par with the OEM pads.

[dbs600]

Fantastic; thanks so much, Bake!

[dadysev]

You still have enough pad left not to worry about changing the ASAP, and its the rear.
Now the colour of your rotor does not look good at all if these are OEM pads. Should have more of mirror finish. I guarantee you those pads have cracks and/or have crystalized.

Either way pads and rotors will be needed soon.

[dadysev]

That's mine and that's the colour oem BMW Rotors should have unless they are the ceramic option of course

[dbs600]

Originally Posted by dadysev

You still have enough pad left not to worry about changing the ASAP, and its the rear. Now the colour of your rotor does not look good at all if these are OEM pads. Should have more of mirror finish. I guarantee you those pads have cracks and/or have crystalized. Either way pads and rotors will be needed soon.

Thanks, dadysev!

Yes, not sure about the color / finish; car did sit at dealer 20k miles ago for engine replacement, however, after which I first noticed same. :|

Getting conflicting info; some saying I have time, others saying I don't. Indy I brought it to today checked the same wheel stating very low as well.

What do you mean by crystallization of the pads? And to better understand, is the actual meat left indicated with the yellow arrow and the metal with the red one?

Also, from what you see, you feel I need rotors as well?

Thanks again!

[dadysev]

Originally Posted by dbs600

Thanks, dadysev!

Yes, not sure about the color / finish; car did sit at dealer 20k miles ago for engine replacement, however, after which I first noticed same. :|

Getting conflicting info; some saying I have time, others saying I don't. Indy I brought it to today checked the same wheel stating very low as well.

What do you mean by crystallization of the pads? And to better understand, is the actual meat left indicated with the yellow arrow and the metal with the red one?

Also, from what you see, you feel I need rotors as well?

Thanks again!

Your measuring the meat wrong. I don't have any graffics tools to show you the wear with the arrows, but you see between your 2 arrows? Thats where the pad is stuck to the metal backing plate of the pad. If your rotor is at that point, then its metal on metal.
measure between the Arrows and the rotor, looks like you ahve about 1/4 inch left. The pad wear comes in about 1/8th inch or something close to it.

Now this is just the outside pad on one side. all 4 pads at the rear should look the same if your sliders, caplipers, etc. are all working properly.

I have a thread about this happening on my front rotors, and I show pics of the pads all cracked up and everything. Rotor was disgusting. Any proper functioning BMW brakes will always look like a perfect hazy mirror, front and back.

Also 90% of mechanics will tell you, that you need pads. They want the work!

[dadysev]

Here it is. Forgot to take pics of the rotor colour at the time but it was close to yours.

http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=judder

[dbs600]

Originally Posted by dadysev

Your measuring the meat wrong. I don't have any graffics tools to show you the wear with the arrows, but you see between your 2 arrows? Thats where the pad is stuck to the metal backing plate of the pad. If your rotor is at that point, then its metal on metal.
measure between the Arrows and the rotor, looks like you ahve about 1/4 inch left. The pad wear comes in about 1/8th inch or something close to it.

Now this is just the outside pad on one side. all 4 pads at the rear should look the same if your sliders, caplipers, etc. are all working properly.

I have a thread about this happening on my front rotors, and I show pics of the pads all cracked up and everything. Rotor was disgusting. Any proper functioning BMW brakes will always look like a perfect hazy mirror, front and back.

Also 90% of mechanics will tell you, that you need pads. They want the work!

Beyond insightful and helpful info; thanks so much!

And wow, really something what happened to your pads; amazing.

Makes me wonder about the quality of the OE parts. :|

Otherwise, none of my rotors have that nice mirror finish. :/

Certainly will keep an eye on this, where if just one of the pads are measuring now 1/8, guess all I have left before metal on metal, meaning if this 1/4 measurement is reduced to half, I'm likely toast with the one that's now indicating.

Suspect I'll purchase pads now to have on hand and replace in 2k miles.

[dbs600]

One further question: Is there any way to tell from the photos how much rotor life I have left?

This will be the first time I’m doing brake work out of pocket, and from what I recall, the brakes had been replaced once all around when the car was under the factory maintenance plan.

If not mistaken, I also recall that when brakes are done under the factory maintenance plan, rotors are always replaced along with the pads, whereas the traditional rule of thumb is for rotors need to be replaced every other brake job. Therefore, I should be okay replacing them upon the next brake job?

Thanks again and happy motoring all!

[Walt White Coupe]

All brake rotors have minimum thickness stamped on them somewhere and probably someone here knows what that number is. If you are close or less than that thickness they must be replaced. In general BMW's are designed that when brake pads are worn out, the rotors are too. From the look of the rotors and the thickness of "outer edge" ridge that indicates how much rotor material has been worn, I'd guess that they have to be replaced with the pads.

[Bbb34]

Originally Posted by dbs600

Strange, as no sound, squealing or performance diminution. :|

I think you only get noise once you're down to "nothing" left on your pads, not 100% certain on this.
Mine too though, no noise, no performance issues until the moment I changed them (and I've gone quite a bit past "recommendation" last time around partially due to lack of appointments at the local dealership)

Originally Posted by dbs600

If not mistaken, I also recall that when brakes are done under the factory maintenance plan, rotors are always replaced along with the pads, whereas the traditional rule of thumb is for rotors need to be replaced every other brake job.

I'm no expert, but I don't think rotors need to be replaced every time pads are. Most dealerships these days (other brands, not just BMW) won't machine your rotors, so it's never really going to be "perfect" unless you change the rotors too and might reduce the life of your new pads too. Not sure if this is liability issue or just not worth their time.

While ago someone mentioned there's a BMW dealer in, if I remember correctly Atlanta area that will machine rotors if needed, but no dealer of any brand I dealt with will do that these days. You might get better luck with independent shop.

[dbs600]

Thanks for the group effort everyone.

Picked up pads and rotors and sensor today from dealer.

Parts dept. said I can return the rotors if my indy states I don't need same.

Also came across these two good reads:

http://independentmotorcars.com/2008...he-brake-pads/

https://www.quora.com/Why-are-brake-...d-individually

[ndinh]

Yep, your rotors and pads are toast. You can touch the lip of your rotor and if it's prominent, it's safest to replace them. I just did my rears last weekend at home. It's pretty straight forward and can be done in 1 hr for both rears. Fronts are even easier. I went with Zimmerman rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. Couldn't be happier.

BTW, I paid ~$220 for everything including a new sensor and the disc brake spreader tool. Easy peasy.

[The Beast]

Has your brake sensor actually triggered or are you going by the iDrive estimate? I always wait for the actual brake wear sensor to trigger and then keep driving it for a while whilst keeping an eye on the pads and disks before replacing them. It is well documented that the iDrive notification is a haphazard estimate...

[dbs600]

Much thanks Gentlemen!

Originally Posted by The Beast

Has your brake sensor actually triggered or are you going by the iDrive estimate? I always wait for the actual brake wear sensor to trigger and then keep driving it for a while whilst keeping an eye on the pads and disks before replacing them. It is well documented that the iDrive notification is a haphazard estimate...

Brake sensor has tripped.

Not sure how much more to drive thereafter; 2k miles?

[krautmeister]

Originally Posted by bake

That is why you get the indicator on your dash of 30 miles. You will not notice any sound or decrease in braking performance until you go beyond the recommended distance. Personally I like Akebono pads. They give off virtually no brake dust and performance is on par with the OEM pads.

^^^ this. Akebono is worth it just for the dust alone. You'll wonder what you'll do with the spare time that you aren't cleaning your wheels.

I got them on my LR3.... the performance is great... stops that heavy girl no problem.

[The Beast]

Originally Posted by dbs600

Much thanks Gentlemen!



Brake sensor has tripped.

Not sure how much more to drive thereafter; 2k miles?

I'm not entirely sure but I have easily done 6-700 miles after the brake sensor has triggered before chickening out and replacing the brakes. My logic being that surely BMW, or any other manufacturer, would not want to risk a customers brakes failing whilst they are on a long journey... therefore in my opinion they probably build a lot of tolerance into the warnings. Especially considering countries like the US where a regular journey can be quite a distance

[dbs600]

Thanks again everyone!

Update:

Rear rotors state 22.4 mm for minimum thickness.

Now need to measure.

[dbs600]

To follow up:

I purchased rear brake pads and a sensor from a dealer and had an indy replace same, but still seeing the red brake warning message.

Went back into the shop and was told that I need to drive for 10 miles or so before it resets.

Thought the sensor was plug and play such that once replaced, it doesn’t trigger the warning. Can someone please clarify.

Shop said if the message doesn’t clear, I’d need to bring it back so the system can be reset. Annoyed I may need to return, but want to return with the correct info, so please advise.

Thank you!