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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications N63 BMS Stage 1 Install
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      07-31-2015, 04:51 PM   #1
rd62
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N63 BMS Stage 1 Install

My BMS Stage 1 came in for my 550 yesterday.

I'm planning to install tomorrow.

Any tips, tricks, or warnings before I tackle the install?

Thanks!
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      07-31-2015, 06:59 PM   #2
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Let the car cool off over night. The direction say to remove the braces on the corners, I didn't. If you have small enough hands it isn't required. Use a very thin blade screwdriver or small pick, the longer and finer the better to flex the retaining tabs on the connectors. Getting the connectors off is the toughest part. Don't flex tabs too far, don't want to break them and avoid pulling on the wires.

Finding a home for the unit under the hood can be a bit challenging. I put it where I think BMS recommend, under the panel that flips up on the right side near the firewall close to the hood hinge. There's a little slot you remove the seal gizmo thing and run the cables through. The panel will stick up a tiny bit from inference with the box. Doesn't seem to hurt anything. First time you close the hood make sure the hinge is clearing the control box.

I've removed and reinstalled mine three or so times when I've taken my car in for warranty work. I can do in about 3 minutes tops now.

Mike
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Last edited by MEby; 07-31-2015 at 07:23 PM..
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      07-31-2015, 11:11 PM   #3
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^ what he said. Study the connections on the Stage 1 a bit and see how everything fits in. Make sure you disconnect your battery as well!

When connected, let her warm up and then go do a few WOT pulls. I noticed with mine that she just got a little bit faster every single time.

Enjoy man!
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      08-01-2015, 07:07 AM   #4
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I purchased an used unit not long enough so mine came without instructions... I want to make sure I am doing it right.
Why do you need to disconnect the battery? I plugged mine without that step.

Also, what position should the dial be? I have it at 11.
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      08-01-2015, 09:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MEby View Post
Let the car cool off over night. The direction say to remove the braces on the corners, I didn't. If you have small enough hands it isn't required. Use a very thin blade screwdriver or small pick, the longer and finer the better to flex the retaining tabs on the connectors. Getting the connectors off is the toughest part. Don't flex tabs too far, don't want to break them and avoid pulling on the wires.

Finding a home for the unit under the hood can be a bit challenging. I put it where I think BMS recommend, under the panel that flips up on the right side near the firewall close to the hood hinge. There's a little slot you remove the seal gizmo thing and run the cables through. The panel will stick up a tiny bit from inference with the box. Doesn't seem to hurt anything. First time you close the hood make sure the hinge is clearing the control box.

I've removed and reinstalled mine three or so times when I've taken my car in for warranty work. I can do in about 3 minutes tops now.

Mike
Any issues with the warranty work? Any codes thrown by the BMS? Is your warranty through BMW or a third party?
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      08-01-2015, 09:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple3 View Post
^ what he said. Study the connections on the Stage 1 a bit and see how everything fits in. Make sure you disconnect your battery as well!

When connected, let her warm up and then go do a few WOT pulls. I noticed with mine that she just got a little bit faster every single time.

Enjoy man!
I don't see anything in the Burger installation instructions regarding disconnecting the battery.
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      08-01-2015, 09:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macastel View Post
I purchased an used unit not long enough so mine came without instructions... I want to make sure I am doing it right.
Why do you need to disconnect the battery? I plugged mine without that step.

Also, what position should the dial be? I have it at 11.
Is yours a stage 1 or 2? I bought second hand also and I don't see a dial.
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      08-01-2015, 10:45 AM   #8
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Maybe because I am being overly cautious. When I had my n54 335i and installed my JB+, JB3, JB4, and JB4 gen4 I always disconnected my battery. Force of habit I guess... probably only necessary if you are diving into the ecu box for n63 Stage 2.
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      08-01-2015, 11:20 AM   #9
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Mine is a stage 1. You open the plastic case and there is a dial in both boxes.
I dont think there is a stage 2 for n63tu (2014+ 550i) is it?

My warranty is with BMW the car is only 6mo old. Not issues. In fact, (I know I should nof had done it but I didn't know) i asked in a bmw dealer and they said unless we can proof the problem was because of the JB4 it should not affect the warranty.
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      08-01-2015, 11:25 AM   #10
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It will throw a code, battery connected at least, when you disconnect the TMAP sensors on the intercoolers. I remove the hardware and use a BT cable and associated software to scan for codes and clear them before a visit to the dealer. I believe this makes it undetectable, as once the code is gone it's gone.
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      08-01-2015, 07:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd62 View Post
Any issues with the warranty work? Any codes thrown by the BMS? Is your warranty through BMW or a third party?
Nope...BMW service ever said anything, but of course it wasn't on it when I took it in. It was still in the BMW 4 year/50K mile factory warranty, in fact it goes out tomorrow. Never a code, not one.

Mike
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      08-01-2015, 08:57 PM   #12
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The install was put on hold as I took the car in today for what seems like a coolant leak. I had the cars 50k service performed couple weeks ago. During that time the dealer performed the fuel pump replacement per the service bulletin. Yesterday my add coolant warning came on and it took almost half a gallon to top it off. The dealer says they topped off all fluids during the recent service so half a gallon of coolant seems like WAY to much to be down since then! They are checking it out and I hope to have it back soon.

My factory warranty expires in another 50 miles and then my Carmax MaxCare warranty takes over until 125k miles.

I'm having second thoughts though on the tune for fear that something major happens and I'm left footing the bill because MaxCare claims the tune caused the issue regardless of whether or not it did.
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      08-02-2015, 04:46 AM   #13
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Buy a BT cable and delete all codes. Done. Have heard no issues of guys running flashes (ARC550) and BMS Stage 2 to the max (Badblack) having any warranty issues and they run their cars 100 times harder than we do....
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      08-02-2015, 08:21 AM   #14
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Where can I find the BT cable you guys speak of?
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      08-02-2015, 12:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd62 View Post
Where can I find the BT cable you guys speak of?
http://www.burgertuning.com/bavarian..._BMW_Mini.html
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      08-02-2015, 05:40 PM   #16
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I know of nothing the tune does that could be detected by the DME. The stage one is really pretty simple. Like I said, I've had it on for about 5000 miles and never a code. If you do need work just pull it off...Not much to it at all.

Stage 2 is a different matter, lot harder installation that might be detectable. I have also heard of it throwing codes.


Mike
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      08-03-2015, 08:07 PM   #17
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Is it silly of me to suggest a DIY JB4 Install Sticky with pics for the earlier N63 cars?
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      09-30-2015, 05:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MEby
Let the car cool off over night. The direction say to remove the braces on the corners, I didn't. If you have small enough hands it isn't required. Use a very thin blade screwdriver or small pick, the longer and finer the better to flex the retaining tabs on the connectors. Getting the connectors off is the toughest part. Don't flex tabs too far, don't want to break them and avoid pulling on the wires.

Finding a home for the unit under the hood can be a bit challenging. I put it where I think BMS recommend, under the panel that flips up on the right side near the firewall close to the hood hinge. There's a little slot you remove the seal gizmo thing and run the cables through. The panel will stick up a tiny bit from inference with the box. Doesn't seem to hurt anything. First time you close the hood make sure the hinge is clearing the control box.

I've removed and reinstalled mine three or so times when I've taken my car in for warranty work. I can do in about 3 minutes tops now.

Mike
Is there a DIY install for the bms stage 1 on n63? Or can you provide me the steps please?
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      09-30-2015, 09:30 PM   #19
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http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18035 on the 1st page. DL the install pdf...
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      04-03-2017, 08:56 AM   #20
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I just installed bms stage1 to my car. Question is can I run higher setting with stock exhaust ?
The manual stated like this: Those equipped with high flow exhaust AND at least 93 RM2 octane fuel can run this higher setting.
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      04-05-2017, 01:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vk535i View Post
I just installed bms stage1 to my car. Question is can I run higher setting with stock exhaust ?
The manual stated like this: Those equipped with high flow exhaust AND at least 93 RM2 octane fuel can run this higher setting.
I would ask BMS technical support about raising boost
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      05-24-2017, 06:02 AM   #22
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I'm trying to find out if BMW is able to flag a tune even if you take off a JB... tune. I spoke with my SA and he said BMW is cracking down on piggyback tunes and flagging them in the system. He reports that some have been flagged without having been hooked up to a comp at the dealer, they think it's through the key. Anyone know of a guaranteed way to remove tune without it being flagged? If there is such a thing.
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