[EL Jeffe 5]

I think my tensioner is starting to make noise
2013 550i N63 engine 65kmiles
I couldn't find anything on YouTube how to replace it. Could it be that hard that people just fork out cash to dealer.
If any of you have done this please give me some direction.
Or some technical data instructions would work just fine.
Thanks

[BurrNinja]

I'm sure this is somewhat similar?

[550iFreak]

I’m about to do a full water pump replacement on mines this week after doing a visual inspection and the water pump pulley is twerking around while running.

I’ll be replacing all the belts, pulley and tensioner in the process. I’ll report on it once it’s being done.

Mines finally gave right at 130,002 miles.

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by BurrNinja

I'm sure this is somewhat similar?

Yeah I watch that video that's only serpentine belt I have to change tensioner
Thanks anyways

[SWFLf10]

I know on my N55 and my previous BMW it was fairly simple. The tensioner can be adjusted using a large torx socket and long breaker bar to release the belt. Then there should only be one bolt holding it onto the front of the engine. The new one is the bolted on and the belt fitted, then you use the same torx bit and bar to put some tension on it and remove the shipping pin that holds the tensioner in place for assembly.

I would also say replace any idler pulleys that are in there at the same time. Usually fairly cheap and easy to replace too.

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by SWFLf10

I know on my N55 and my previous BMW it was fairly simple. The tensioner can be adjusted using a large torx socket and long breaker bar to release the belt. Then there should only be one bolt holding it onto the front of the engine. The new one is the bolted on and the belt fitted, then you use the same torx bit and bar to put some tension on it and remove the shipping pin that holds the tensioner in place for assembly.

I would also say replace any idler pulleys that are in there at the same time. Usually fairly cheap and easy to replace too.

That's the plan to do everything
I think I will have to remove cooling fan to gain more space

[SWFLf10]

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

That's the plan to do everything
I think I will have to remove cooling fan to gain more space

That definitely helps with space if you remove the fan. Really not that difficult either. Nice that they designed it to slide out the way it does.

[Unspec]

Just keep in mind, the cross brace that connects at the front of the car and at the strut tower has a TTY bolt. You have to replace it with a new one or you will strip out the hole at the strut tower - ask me how I know lol

It's the only annoying part of removing the fan.

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Just keep in mind, the cross brace that connects at the front of the car and at the strut tower has a TTY bolt. You have to replace it with a new one or you will strip out the hole at the strut tower - ask me how I know lol

It's the only annoying part of removing the fan.

I never knew that's bullshit fucking engineers why can't we have one normal fucking think on BMW Fuck

Thank you so much for heads up

[Sylverlee]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Just keep in mind, the cross brace that connects at the front of the car and at the strut tower has a TTY bolt. You have to replace it with a new one or you will strip out the hole at the strut tower - ask me how I know lol

It's the only annoying part of removing the fan.

haha damn it this happened to me too. The nut closer to the front. What did you do to remedy it?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

haha damn it this happened to me too. The nut closer to the front. What did you do to remedy it?

The nut closer to the front is actually not TTY, you probably just overugga'd it it threads into aluminum so it's not... the strongest threads lol

Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5

I never knew that's bullshit fucking engineers why can't we have one normal fucking think on BMW Fuck

Thank you so much for heads up

Eh, there's a time and place for TTY bolts. As a suspension component, it makes sense.

[550iFreak]

Did mines with the water pump, pulleys, tensioner and belts.

Couple things to remember:

It is easier to do with the fan removed but not required if you are planning to change JUST the tensioner. All access will be from the bottom of the car with the engine belly pan removed.

When changing belts, especially the a/c belt where it is mandatory to remove the 4 bolts holding the main engine pulley is that you keep the engine from rotating and ONLY ROTATE CLOCKWISE. NEVER ROTATE BACKWARDS.

^^ doing so will damage your cam gear assembly causing potential engine damage never did that on mine since I remember when I did my valve seals last year.

The tensioner uses a T-60 torx tool and it is under high tension so be careful.

Use good belts. Don’t cheap out here.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

The tensioner bolt is TTY and should be replaced. It’s only 3 bucks from bmw dealer so no brained there.

Which tensioner are you talking about? The one for the water pump/alternator belt is not TTY, it's 40nm and that's it.

[550iFreak]

Hmmmm I thought I read that the bolt was supposed to be replaced with the tensioner.

Reread the newtis manual and you’re right, 40nm with no mentioning of the replacement of the bolt.

Sorry about that, edited top post.

Still, it is a peace of mind having new hardware. And it was really cheap so no worries there.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

Hmmmm I thought I read that the bolt was supposed to be replaced with the tensioner.

Reread the newtis manual and you’re right, 40nm with no mentioning of the replacement of the bolt.

Sorry about that, edited top post.

Still, it is a peace of mind having new hardware. And it was really cheap so no worries there.

You probably still should use new hardware so corrosion doesn't ruin your day sometime down the line

[EL Jeffe 5]

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

Did mines with the water pump, pulleys, tensioner and belts.

Couple things to remember:

It is easier to do with the fan removed but not required if you are planning to change JUST the tensioner. All access will be from the bottom of the car with the engine belly pan removed.

When changing belts, especially the a/c belt where it is mandatory to remove the 4 bolts holding the main engine pulley is that you keep the engine from rotating and ONLY ROTATE CLOCKWISE. NEVER ROTATE BACKWARDS.

^^ doing so will damage your cam gear assembly causing potential engine damage never did that on mine since I remember when I did my valve seals last year.

The tensioner uses a T-60 torx tool and it is under high tension so be careful.

Use good belts. Don't cheap out here.

It makes sense going from the bottom I didn't think about that.
Did you replace all three belt pulley and tensioner
Thanks

[550iFreak]

There was only two belts. The AC belt and the main alternator/water pump belt. Both are replaced with genuine continental replacements along with BMW water pump, BMW tensioner and bolt, and BMW deflector pulley.

[mickeyvalentine]

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

Mines finally gave right at 130,002 miles.

Came here for information but was surprised at this. I'm at 131k and I'm barely researching replacing the circa 2016 spark plugs much less the pulleys and belts