[Korkmaz]

Hi

I have 2011 model F10. with N47 diesel 184 hp A/T

my car has interesting problems..

I need a help please..

First ; the center lock button in the dashboard.. It doesnt work.. But i'm pretty sure the button is okay. i can lock and unlock the doors from remote.

Also, i can open the trunk from inside of the car. with button. or i can open it from the opening handle.. But, i cant open from remote key... when i press the button from the key, the signal goes to the car.. some console lights comes on , but the trunk never opens..


the final problem is, about cruise control, when i press the set button,
it says, the cruise control cannot be activated...



i have these error codes from ista

27BD00 BSD data bus comminications fault
2A0D00 Local Interconnect Network; bit-seral data interface, message ; alternator missing
D016DD Message (display driver dynamics; 97 1.2) checksum incorrect ; reciever ICM ; transmitter instrument panel

290D00 BSD, message : oil condition sensor : missing
28CD00 LIN, message : radiator shutter: Missing
C90D60 AUC sensor : internal sensor fault

i think all of this sensors are not broken, everything is connected each other.. i dont know.

my alternator is working, i can check it from voltage, also i change the battery yesterday. but it doesnot work..

my car is stock.. and i never tried to code anything.. i bought it 1 year ago, and everything is same for 1 year

[wcr3d]

How long have you had these problems?

[Korkmaz]

i bought my car 1 year ago.. and i have this problems since i bought it

[Korkmaz]

i read an article about "wrong oil sensor"

https://bimmerprofs.com/bsd-oil-quality-sensor/

it's pretty close to my problems and gave me an idea..

i pulled out the socket of my oil sensor.. and nothing changed (

[chipguy]

do you have any error message from the JBE or ZGM modules. they manage communications of the car.

[chipguy]

i think you are having communications issue. you should watch this video

[M_Bimmer]

There are few things are perplexing:

1. What do you mean your battery doesn't work?

2. Your alternator BSD line must be connected to your DME/DDE in order for the DME's power management system to work properly AND for your battery to be charged correctly from the alternator

I'd address the alternator first:

1. Charging system must be 100%, so you need to look into why your alternator BSD line is offline...and there can a few reasons.
- Reason 1: Alternator BSD electronics is bad
- Reason 2: BSD wire between the Alternator and DME is open
- Reason 3: DME/DDE is bad

....but before you jump on 3, disconnect the BSD connector on the alternator , and from the DME, and do a continuity check...this will tell you if the wire is fine...then plug both end back in and use ISTA to clear all codes....if you still have an issue, you really hope it's the alternator and not the DME/DDE....the alternator must be putting out above +13.25VDC AND a good LIN packet on the BSD line. One or both conditions are missing, you need a new alternator.

Once you get the Alternator working, your battery should come on line via the DME, via a good terminal 30 voltage ...and you should clear ALL codes, then restart your car, and determine what codes pop back up.

Please keep us appraised.....

While your code list point to a BSD bus and LIN bus issue, they are predominately controlled via different ECU's, such as your AUC sensor for the A/C LIN bus goes to your JBBE, and not linked to your ICM...so this leads me to believe you have a low-voltage issue, to be corrected by your alternator/battery issue.

[Korkmaz]

Thank you all for your replies


* no i didnt see any error JBE or ZGM ... But the doorhandle video is very usefull ..

* my battery doest work : sorry for my bad english.. I mean: I changed my battery and nothing changed.. (Replacing the battery did not solve the issues)


Here the updated informations about battery....


I knew my battery was not new and decided to replace it.
I checked their voltage before replacing it.
It was 90ah Standart Lead Acit battery, not AGM.
The voltage is 12.05 - 12.10 V when the car is not working.
When I start the car The voltage goes up to 14.2V.. Because its trying to charge the battery. Theese numbers are before changing the battery..

So I bought a 100ah Premium brand standart lead acit battery. (agin not agm) My car doesnt have start-stop function. 2011 model.


Now the voltage of the battery is 12.6V and when i start the car, it goes 13.5

I am sure my alternator is defineitly working. ((it charged my completely discharged battery 2 months ago.. ))

it charges but i dont know it is healty or not...

[Korkmaz]

On the other hand..

I unplug the socket of my oil sensor.. and nothing changed..

I unplug the auc sensor and clean it very deeply.. when i unplug it.. also nothing changed.. after i plug it back.. i think now it works fine..

I check the front bumper.. i couldt find the selenoid of active shutter... it is really doesnt exist..

now we are sure 3 of theese sensors are not the reason of the other errors..
radiator shutter is missing..
auc is okay.
and it says oil sensor is missing but i dont want to believe it is broken =).. because its expensive


here the updated fault codes of car.. on the attachment they come up, immediatly i start the car..





(yesterday i change the brake pads.. this emf error comes up, but the emf works.. we didnt activate the emf service mod.. maybe thats the reason)

[chipguy]

Seems like someone else had a similiar problem. I believe one of the components on the BSD bus is bad. However, you should check all the wiring first and make sure they are fine.

https://*********************/thread...ns-fault.4719/

[chipguy]

Cut and paste from somewhere else

Quick writeup on my misadventures dealing with this stupid fault code

A few months ago I got randomly code 2E7C BSD comms fault. Cleared it, went away. It would come back and eventually got worse from intermittent to present all the time. It can be a royal PITA to diagnose especially if it's intermittent at first like my car.

Symptoms (in the order I started noticing them):
random 2E9F (oil condition sensor) fault code
checking oil level results in no reading, with INACTIVE displayed
rough idling, noticeable if you have upgraded motor mounts
idle hunt under certain conditions. most noticeable if you clutch in and drop RPMs to idle when moving.
oil temperature gauge suddenly reads impossibly high (250+ in the dead of winter with easy driving)
faster than normal warm up
water pump runs unnessarily. ~3 seconds when locking / unlocking car, full tilt when ignition on / engine off
At this point you're probably thinking the car is possessed and a part out is in order.

Explanation: the BSD or bit serial data bus system links several components together on the N54: alternator, IBS, water pump, oil condition sensor, and DME. Failure of one BSD component takes down communication over the data bus and causes other BSD components to misbehave. Proper diagnosis is only possible when the fault code becomes persistent. At which point the DME fault code memory is checked after unplugging each component, in sequence, with ignition on / engine off. Sequence and explanation courtesy of a BMW tech I spoke with who helped walk me through the process:

1. Ignition on
2. Unplug BSD component in question (I started with the alternator)
3. Clear codes
4. Wait 15 seconds and re-read codes

If code 2E7C persists, then the part unplugged was not faulty. Plug it back in and repeat steps 1-4 for all other BSD components. If all other BSD components are good, then the DME is bad (rare but it happens). According to the tech, most of the time it's a faulty water pump. Another possible culprit is damaged or corroded wiring.

Me being me, I didn't listen and replaced basically everything else first. New oil level sensor... didn't fix it. New alternator... didn't fix it. No IBS (weird how some cars have it and some don't) so didn't need to replace that. Finally replaced water pump this past weekend and the code so far is gone for good. My oil temperatures are back to normal, oil level monitoring works again, and it no longer idles funny.

I don't know enough about water pumps to say for sure what happened, but when I removed it there was coolant pooled in the electrical connector. My guess is the pump housing developed a micro crack and the pump controller said see ya. Very disappointing with just under 40k on an OE continental branded pump.

[chipguy]

this person had a similar problem. It was the alternator.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1470613