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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions H&R Spring Install Pics and tips
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      05-15-2014, 02:03 AM   #45
spyroz
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hmm... may be I should write one up when I start lowering process on my f10, it seem like there's a easy way to do it on the rear suspension.
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Last edited by spyroz; 06-14-2014 at 01:38 AM..
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      05-15-2014, 11:13 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyroz View Post
hmm... may be I should write one up when I start lowering process on my f10, it seem like this person miss a lot of step.
Please do! I'd be happy to update my write-up if you can provide additional details and steps.
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      06-14-2014, 01:37 AM   #47
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I did my 13 f10 550i Msport with EDC a few day ago. I must say, it wasn't that hard to do it if you got the right tools and help from a buddy.

For those who have EDC is different than without EDC, The only thing I did different from "hamanncheese" is that:

1. front strut: EDC control sensor is attached to the 550i strut, in order to take this strut out with only losing top nuts, sway link nut, and bottom strut bolt & nut is to remove the EDC control sensor, so that it could clear the control arm.
With the help of a buddy pressing the front suspension down of course. But that's all you need to lose is "top strut nuts, sway link nut, bottom strut bolts and of course EDC control sensor & connector".

2. rear strut: it a bit more easy than the front. Losing top strut nuts, then bottom strut bolt, EDC connector only. That's all you need to losing from the rear to get the strut out, I did not lose any else. Taking it out is a bit tricky but it possible without losing any else. Have a buddy press down on the suspension, then guide the strut out between the break fluid line, do not try to go over the break fluid line, bc it will not clear the top mount.

3. Tools you gotta have, Compact gun and springs compressor.

I did it in 4.5 hrs, just taking my time because I don't want to screw it up. Make sure you tie the rear strut bolt back in pretty good.

Last edited by spyroz; 06-14-2014 at 01:53 AM..
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      05-27-2015, 04:38 PM   #48
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Anybody has done a diy for the Xdrive? I just attempted this and got stuck(literally) on getting the front suspension out. The lower shock design is different from the OP as the xdrive has the axle in the front. I could not get it over the lower control arm as well as the axle. What else do you have to remove for the xdrive version? Thanks!!
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      06-03-2015, 05:39 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbonm3ny View Post
Anybody has done a diy for the Xdrive? I just attempted this and got stuck(literally) on getting the front suspension out. The lower shock design is different from the OP as the xdrive has the axle in the front. I could not get it over the lower control arm as well as the axle. What else do you have to remove for the xdrive version? Thanks!!
I just tried and ran into the same thing. It's easy to get to the point to get the spring assembly out. But with the axel in the way the assembly won't move much at all.

Did you figure it out?
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      06-04-2015, 08:46 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdingo View Post
I just tried and ran into the same thing. It's easy to get to the point to get the spring assembly out. But with the axel in the way the assembly won't move much at all.

Did you figure it out?
No, I just had a shop do the work for me as I didint want to get stuck.

I think you need to take the upper pinch bolt on the control arm out as well as take the axle out to get the whole front assembly out.

I didnt take that risk as I need my car. Im not a big fan of removing the axle bolt myself.

good luck!
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      06-04-2015, 11:37 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbonm3ny View Post
No, I just had a shop do the work for me as I didint want to get stuck.

I think you need to take the upper pinch bolt on the control arm out as well as take the axle out to get the whole front assembly out.

I didnt take that risk as I need my car. Im not a big fan of removing the axle bolt myself.

good luck!
Ugh. The shops here are charging around 900 for the springs to be installed.

I did take that pinch bolt out but couldn't get them apart and I didn't want to damage anything. God dam it
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      06-04-2015, 12:33 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdingo View Post
Ugh. The shops here are charging around 900 for the springs to be installed.

I did take that pinch bolt out but couldn't get them apart and I didn't want to damage anything. God dam it
Exactly right. I had that pinch bolt out... i was starting to use the pulley remover to remove that nub from the upper control arm and it was working with a bit of pressure... again, i didnt want to be stuck with being able to get it out and not being able to put it back together.

Shop around, I got two trusted indy shop quoted me for the same price (had work done with them prior).

Good Luck!
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      06-04-2015, 12:38 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbonm3ny View Post
Exactly right. I had that pinch bolt out... i was starting to use the pulley remover to remove that nub from the upper control arm and it was working with a bit of pressure... again, i didnt want to be stuck with being able to get it out and not being able to put it back together.

Shop around, I got two trusted indy shop quoted me for the same price (had work done with them prior).

Good Luck!
If you dont mind me asking who did you use?
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      06-12-2015, 09:32 PM   #54
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IF we can get new pics on this that be great guys!!!
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      08-08-2015, 02:53 PM   #55
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spyroz hey brother can u chime in on the socket sizes u had to use to remove all suspension bolts?
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      08-11-2015, 12:03 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aiden.Detailing View Post
spyroz hey brother can u chime in on the socket sizes u had to use to remove all suspension bolts?
which one bro? all of it? I don't remember all of it... but I have to says it's 17, 13, 19, 12mm... and some hex keys. they're in metric.
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      08-11-2015, 12:18 PM   #57
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spyroz thanks brotha ill keep those in mind and would u say sockets worked best or box wrenches?
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      08-17-2015, 09:11 AM   #58
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Looking at dropping my car too following "installation" of 20" wheels.
Which is recommended HR OE Sports Springs or HR Sports Springs?
Its a daily driver mostly motorways.
I just want to close the wheel gap with not sacrificing comfort
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      08-17-2015, 10:18 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tek
Looking at dropping my car too following "installation" of 20" wheels.
Which is recommended HR OE Sports Springs or HR Sports Springs?
Its a daily driver mostly motorways.
I just want to close the wheel gap with not sacrificing comfort
You'd probably want to go with acs springs. From what I've read on the forums.. Ride is smooth and close to stock with a slight drop.
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      08-18-2015, 05:46 PM   #60
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Was quoted 6.5 hours of labor today for spring install which sounds insane to me. I have had springs installed on cars in the past and it usually takes 2-3 hours max. Is the F10 that different?
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      08-20-2015, 09:41 PM   #61
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gatorfast as long as u don't have EDC or adaptive drive u can do the full install of coilovers or springs in a full 4 hours with a partner. if you are alone expect more time!!! I completed my BC racing coilover install in 4hr 25 mins. roughly maybe a bit less with breaks but i had a buddy of mine help me out. just follow the DIY that hamanncheese did, the only this is the rear removal was the i pulled down on the hub instead of removing other suspension parts with my helper. hope it goes well!!!!
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      06-09-2018, 12:07 PM   #62
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Garage List
Reviving an old but very useful thread.

I'm in the process of installing the Dinan Springs and Handling Kit. I decided to tackle one side at a time vs front/rear. I started with the driver's side. This is the first car where the rear is harder than the front to work on. The front took me 1.5 hrs, rear took me 4+ hours (I lost count). Unbolting and bolting the shock lower bolt literally took me 90% of the time. What the hell am I missing? Everyone has made it sound so easy, but mine was a b---- to get off and then even more of a b---- to put back in. I obviously had to use all hand tools since no impact gun would fit.

As of now I've decided not to touch the other rear shock and just take it to someone to swap out the last spring, unless someone can shed some light on how they got that damn bolt off and back on so easily.

BTW I didn't need to remove any extra bits to get the shock assembly off. I just used a bottle to push the control arm low enough to slide the shock off.

Any help on the rear bolt is much appreciated.
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      06-22-2018, 03:44 PM   #63
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I did my front springs today with the help of a small bottle Jack to push things down. Really easy. But the rear suspension is killing me. I have tried twice now on the rear passenger side. I just can't get the strut out.

After I unbolt all the strut top bolts it's also nearly impossible to get that bottom strut bolt off and then back in it's little pocket to reinstall when I admit defeat.

Could someone post DETAILED steps on the rear. I'm a handy guy that doesn't use use mechanics for most things. I know I have to be missing something. Thanks all in advance.

Last edited by etnsandman; 06-23-2018 at 04:28 PM..
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      06-22-2018, 09:59 PM   #64
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Hope this helps...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rbers/CMtJQScu

Please let us know how it turns out. Good luck! Take pics! ;-)

Last edited by John H.; 06-22-2018 at 10:05 PM.. Reason: Added info.
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      06-22-2018, 10:34 PM   #65
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Thanks man. I was just check out the procedure for getting the stuff out of the car. I also need to find a way to counteract the huge jump the rear suspension does when shock is removed. The front suspension was easy to force down, not so much with the rear.
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      06-25-2018, 11:54 AM   #66
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Crickets.....
Well, I think the next attempt I will jack up the rear and place a wedge to prevent the suspension from contracting once the shock is popped loose. If I do these while the tire is still on it should have the suspension dropped down nicely. I will then try the TIS method they show to remove the rear shocks.

I will beat these rear shocks...
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