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04-24-2018, 04:25 PM | #420 |
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04-24-2018, 09:00 PM | #421 |
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04-24-2018, 09:21 PM | #422 |
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04-24-2018, 09:23 PM | #423 |
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04-24-2018, 09:31 PM | #424 |
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I am meaning that if there is an aftermarket product that adds hp of that much to a car then I will gladly pay that money. 15hp or so gain...not so much
Last edited by Hilly; 04-24-2018 at 09:38 PM.. |
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04-25-2018, 12:28 AM | #425 |
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04-25-2018, 09:11 AM | #426 |
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got no clue brother... badblack replied to one of the threads yesterday and don't even bother responding back to his own thread. maybe theres none. or still pending production...or hasn't been released yet that's why starting to do a GB to fund the production?
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04-25-2018, 10:58 AM | #427 | |
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For those of you that have facebook you can join us here https://www.facebook.com/groups/bmwn63/ i post a lot of developments in regards to N63 platform.
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04-26-2018, 08:56 AM | #428 |
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Best customer Services ever. In return I will kill someone for him if asked. lol Thanks Black
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badblack550xi464.50 Taynice8715.50 |
05-10-2018, 03:05 PM | #429 |
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Not for nothing can you shed some light on the V3 intakes by providing the community with PICS & Proof of HP's increase. Word of the mouth isn't enough to substantiate such claim without evidence. Any Dyno numbers showing proof of Gain (Stock vs V3) Etc.,?
Last edited by warpeacelove; 05-11-2018 at 10:20 AM.. |
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05-11-2018, 09:08 AM | #430 |
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For the amount of money that buyers have to spend to get the intake it is definitely a must, considering that payments have to be made first before production starts.
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warpeacelove134.00 |
05-12-2018, 01:50 AM | #431 |
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I'll chime in.
First of all, it's hard to capture hp gains of an intake on ANY platform because of inconsistencies of the baseline that can't be controlled in every environment. Which is why companies as big as MSR don't advertise dynos, times, etc. Everyone's environment and baselines are different. I'll elaborate. First of all, a dyno isn't a viable way to establish a baseline for intakes. Unless you're willing to drop money and time on an immediate pre/post in the same day, which isn't likely if you're familiar with dyno procedures, not to mention cost. Even at that, you probably wouldn't get accurate results. The deviation in ambient temperature and the fact that fans in a room don't compare to actual real world applications since temperature is a huge factor. 1/4 mile times could be where one could possibly prove gains, but there are major possible inconsistencies. The biggest being not every run is the same, actions on one run isn't going to be a exact match with the next, so the baseline will be different. If someone with a dragy could do 60-130 pulls at night, where temperature is more stable pre/post intake, that would probably yield the most accurate results. Intakes have been debated many times on every platform. It really boils down to what you're going for. Majority of the time, it's that boost in the mid range with above average conditions where intakes shine, plus the aesthetics for show cars, and the sound. During the day, due to higher temps, the difference is unnoticeable. If you're expecting 40+whp from an intake, that's absurd and not how engine management works. |
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05-12-2018, 11:50 PM | #432 | |
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Allow the OP to speak as he is the developer behind this product or is he? Since you want to serve as the OP liaison, allow me to address you directly and be OP indirectly. You don’t need to conduct a quarter mile run to prove gain, all that is required is a dyno and the vehicle in a complete Stock state hence captured variables then compare those variable to the aftermarket intake. Before installing a Cold Air Inductions cold air intake. They install the cold air intake on the dyno and then retest to check performance gains. No tuning and no other changes. This is a true before and after test to show just the kind of engineering and performance that goes into Cold Air Inductions cold air intake systems. A dyno is VERY IMPORTANT to collect defining and definitive data. What incoherent statements are you making “it’s hard to collect HP gain on any platform.” Lmao. Let me help you with your statement: Does anyone know exactly how much effect the outside air temp and humidity shows on the Dyno? Weather & HP Changes in air temperature, humidity and barometric pressure affect an engine performance since internal combustion engines are essentially air pumps. In order to run at peak efficiency, a specific air/fuel ratio is required. The horsepower and torque available from a normally aspirated engine depend upon the density of air. Higher air density means more oxygen molecules are available for combustion (more power). Lower air density means less oxygen and less power. Change any of the three "weather" varibales (temperature, humidity or atmospheric pressure) and the amount of oxygen available for combustion changes proportionately. To figure out exactly how much power is gained or lost due to weather changes requires a working knowledge of the engineering formulas used to derive correction factors for engine dynamometers. Because atmospheric conditions play such a critical role in power, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) established a standard for measuring horsepower and torque (SAE J1349 JUN90). This standard SAE reference point is based on 77F @ 29.235 inches-Hg (inches of mercury), with zero percent relative humidity. Humidity & HP Humidity is water vapor, and in a given amount of air, it displaces oxygen content, making the air less dense. As an engine ingests less oxygen, its output is reduced. On a hot day at sea level, high humidity would cause an engine to run rich. Typical humidity differences can range from 0 percent humidity at 40 degrees F in winter, to 70 percent at 110 degrees in summer. This results in a 4% change in horsepower output. EFI engines are able to compensate somewhat for reduced amounts of oxygen by leaning the fuel mixture, keeping a proper air/fuel ratio, but the computer cannot replace the missing oxygen. Horsepower is still reduced, but not as noticeable as with a carbureted engine, which lack the ability to automatically modify the air/fuel mix. If the humidity went from 0 to 30 percent, with all other factors remaining the same, the loss of power on a 200 hp engine would be 1.4 hp. However, if humidity jumps to 90 percent (as it does in the South and Midwest during summer), power falls off by 3.6 percent. This equates to a loss of 7HP on a 200hp engine. Barometric Pressure & HP Barometric pressure influences the intake charge density and flow. The higher the barometric or atmospheric pressure, the more oxygen that’s available for combustion, and the better the engine’s power output. A baseline measurement of barometric pressure is 29.92" Hg., at sea level, or one atmosphere (14.7 psi.) The higher or lower the barometer, the more or less power the engine can make. If the barometer increased from 29.20" Hg to 29.70" Hg, the power of a 200HP motor increases 4.2 HP. If the barometer drops by the same amount, the same amount of power would be lost. Temperature & HP Air temperature has the greatest effect on engine performance. The warmer the air, the less dense it is & the less oxygen it contains. This means poorer combustion, and a proportionate loss in power. If the temperature increases from 70 to 90 degrees (other factors remain constant), the power loss on that 200HP motor is 5.8 HP. The inverse is also true. If the temperature dips from 70 to 50 degrees, power increases by 5.8 HP. The difference in performance between a 35-degree winter day and a 105-degree summer day can be as much as 10%, if both humidity and barometric pressure remain constant. Change those parameters, and the difference can be even more dramatic. Put it all together Using a 200HP engine as a baseline, on a 77F day, with the barometer at 29.53" Hg, and 30% humidity, power output is 100 percent. If humidity remains constant, but air temperature drops to 70 degrees and the barometer to 29.20" Hg, power is down to 198.6 HP (a loss of 1.4 horses). The same engine on a 100F day, with the barometer at 29.53" Hg, humidity at 80 percent, and power is now down to 185 hp (15 hp loss). Conversely, if barometric pressure remains 29.53" Hg, but air temps drop to 50F and humidity is down to 20% percent, power output jumps to 205.8 hp. Drop the temperature to 20F, raise the bar to 29.7" Hg, and cut humidity to 0%, and that 200 is now making 211.4 HP. Altitude & HP Altitude/elevation plays the biggest single role in the horsepower/performance equation. For every 1000 feet above sea level, there is a reduction in air density of approximately 4.5%. So, for every 1000-foot gain in altitude, there is a loss of horsepower (a 200 HP gives up 9 HP). In the End a Dyno is the business standard/norm accross all platforms to show gain whether that be turbos, exhaust, pulleys, CAI, carbon fiber driven shaft va auminum etc., It’s hard to argue with the dyno numbers, which offer definitive proof that the perceived power gains. Side Note: OP Stop promoting a product which is invisible as countless people have inquired for pics and data proof regarding HP gain for your product. People as myself and others will like to see the quality of work you hand crafted. Lastly when customers has to pay up front for anything being sold under the guise of a group buy the items should all ready be on the shelf ready to shipped out ASAP when conducting a group buy scheme. Dyno used as the industry norm watch and learn http://www.hellcat.org/threads/afe-i...break-in.9792/ Last edited by warpeacelove; 05-12-2018 at 11:56 PM.. |
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05-13-2018, 11:29 AM | #433 | ||
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I never said Dynos aren't imperative in proving HP gain in general, I said it's hard to prove it in regards to INTAKES, on any platform. You copy and pasting from a LS1 forum with key points that add to my justification...Ambient temperature plays a key role as proven with your points you pasted. You took that out of context. He was referring to tuning on a cold day vs warm day, but it applies here more so nonetheless. Your link proved that the dyno run did nothing for the Intake. The baselines were nearly identical after filter break in and the numbers were within 5rwhp from stock but the temp in the dyno room was 99 degrees. That's not cold air....he even writes in that post that the dyno operator tells him that he would be in the 700 range on a cool day (stock). I'm not ruling this out, I'm saying if you're testing on a dyno the baselines have to be the same and practical for what you're testing. Dynos can be easily manipulated (especially for those with an agenda), fan distance from the front of the car, the way the car is strapped down, tires, and wheels. Changing any of these factors for the 2nd post-intake run will look as if the car made hp gains. Look at Dinan for example, they state their tunes add x amount of HP and have dynos to prove it but we all know their numbers are far from reality with proper real world dyno testing and 1/4 mile times. As I stated if someone with a dragy could post real world numbers that would be the most accurate. But even then, it's not going to be much above stock. We are talking MAYBE 0-10hp What I'm saying is, nowadays people who understand performance don't buy an intake for the slight, if any, HP gain. You'll get more $/hp elsewhere. This is common sense in terms of performance. Our cars come with a "cold air intake" stock, pretty good design, but the filters are highly restrictive. To some, y'all want crazy numbers for an intake, google cold air intake claims and see what science says about all of them. There's too many variables (car dependent, airflow rating, and efficiency rating, etc). Which goes back to the hellcat link you posted, who's to say Dodge didn't get the intake right the first time? Just because there's aftermarket parts available doesn't mean the original engineers didn't get the job done with the original parts. He bested the stock intake by 4whp out of his best runs with the aFe. This is more of a complementary/aesthetic thing. I bought these mainly for the sound and looks. My butt dyno really felt the gain at night and I could definitely tell the difference when I went back to stock. During the day when it was 100 degrees out it felt as if I was stock, or worse. Which is expected with a cold air intake/heat soak. Sadly I never did a baseline dyno and only dyno'd when I had all my mods installed. At the time, I went to a lot of car meets and would pop the hood. My pipes were color matched to my car so it looked good and sounded good when I drove off. The sound, looks, and butt dyno justified my purchase. For others, these don't matter and I understand that. For those N63 members that want a cheaper intake, there is a cheaper option out there (ARM). But those intakes throw CEL constantly due to their MAF housing that differs greatly from the stock diameter. Head over to the N63 Facebook group, we discussed this multiple times. This intake black is selling is the only one for our platform that doesn't cause things to go haywire. If y'all want cheap get those ARMs, the term you get what your pay for applies. I've dealt with badblack on multiple occasions, some not even intake related due to other issues with my car, and he's helped every single time. His customer service is top notch, give him time to update the thread. I'm sure he will update it with pics and info once V3 is available as stated in his last post here and in our N63 group, he's still testing it. |
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05-13-2018, 08:58 PM | #434 |
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05-13-2018, 09:47 PM | #435 | |
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OP’s MAF design is the primary reason his intakes doesn’t throw a CEL as itn’t round. Perhaps if I get around to it I can create my own intakes with 12 inch pipings on both side, then have someone customize the maf piping utilizing silicone pieces along with 180 couplers, 90 defgree elbows and 45 degrees couplers etc. Intakes make minimal power they’re more for sound and looks than anything else after all we understand one another technical knowledge of this field. Last edited by warpeacelove; 05-13-2018 at 09:52 PM.. |
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05-15-2018, 03:22 PM | #436 |
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Badblacks intakes are similar to these for our N63s. MSR only makes them for M cars but the vid gives you a general idea of gains, eventhough it wont be as much as the M cars. Last edited by 535_BiTurbo; 05-15-2018 at 03:30 PM.. |
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01-02-2019, 01:59 PM | #437 |
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What are some option you recommend for my f10 550i
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