[suj999]

Have a F10 2011 520d that I had the DMF and Clutch replaced as the old one started to slip very slightly on high gears and slight DMF noise.

So ordered new LUK parts from Eurocarparts and got my trusted mechanic to have them replaced.
On opening up, the old clutch was really worn and the DMF had a lot of play and started to leak oil.

The mechanic got one of his experienced technicians to fit the parts and he was very through and I was there when he was fitting everything.

Once finished, on test driving it I found that the clutch was slipping really badly on gear 3 and up (the rev would race up and I have to let go of the accelerator for it to catch up mostly even without me trying to race the car). But not at all on 1 & 2.
There is also a slight knocking feeling when the clutch is fully pressed down, but only if pressed down fully. And only appears in the last half an inch of travel.

The mechanic is unsure what is wrong except of the clutch kit is faulty and suggested can try another one from eurocarparts. But not sure what to do if it does the same thing.

I fairly trust him and he has 2 people working for him and mainly works on German cars. But told me he hasn’t changed a clutch on an F10 yet.

So far between him and me we narrowed the possibilities to
1) Need bedding in – Unlikely (and no improvement at all over the 3 days since change)
2) Bad fitting – Again unlikely as the tech was rather through and I was there.
3) Wrong clutch – We did visually check as well as with eurocar parts to make sure it’s the correct one.
4) Release bearing faulty?
5) Clutch pressure plate / Self adjust faulty and not making full contact?

I have spoken to someone else who used to work on Vauxhalls, he said it could be that the release bearing or the release fork may be miss aligned?? Or was damaged on transit or during fitting. The knocking could be because it’s travelling too far and touching the pressure plate? And because its fitted badly (or damaged) it could also be not forming the tight enough grip when it’s meant to be engaged? Does this sound feasible??

Thanks for any input

[493263]

I had the same problem on my old 3000gt vr4. Turned out to be a leak in the line connected to the master cylinder that. It sounds like you don't have enough pressure for the clutch to grip. Check everything that has to do with applying pressure. Could be a leak somewhere.

[suj999]

Thanks will do. But isn't the master cylinder/ slave cylinder aid to disengage rather than help it apply pressure ?

[493263]

Originally Posted by suj999

Thanks will do. But isn't the master cylinder/ slave cylinder aid to disengage rather than help it apply pressure ?

It should be both ways. Fixing that made my clutch stop slipping. It was a different car but I can't imagine BMW manual transmissions are radically different designs. I've also seen pressure plates improperly installed cause slipping.

I seriously would check the parts itself if you find no leaks. Possibilities 3,4 and 5 is very possible. You may also have the wrong pressure plate. If you slip on 3rd, it is most likely pressure related. I can't see break-in and bad fitting as a problem because it would've shown on any other gear. It could just also be a bad part that does not meet specs.

I've had a lot of bad experience with shops and buying aftermarket parts for expensive cars. If it's a big critical job, I just find a manual, rent a lift and do it myself. My VR4 taught me a lot about cars because it's the one of the few cars in automotive history known for being on a lift more than on the road.

[suj999]

Thanks for the tips, still haven't found a solution. Car is parked up as have issues with getting a replacement clutch.

Eurocarparts took nearly a week to get the initial clutch, which the mechanic bought together with the DMF.
We have asked them to change it, but they have the DMF in stock but for the clutch quoting October before it being available again.

I'm tempted to order the clutch from another place (online) and have eurocar parts exchange the DMF and try fitting all again. This times will check for any leaks on the master/slave cylinder too.

One thing I have noticed is, that the biting point is very very high. As soon as I start pressing the clutch it disengages. Normally it would be a bit more further down and almost at the end by the time clutch is old.

As for doing it myself, I still am not comfortable. May be with a friend but don't trust myself enough to do such a time consuming effort.

[493263]

Originally Posted by suj999

One thing I have noticed is, that the biting point is very very high. As soon as I start pressing the clutch it disengages. Normally it would be a bit more further down and almost at the end by the time clutch is old.

As for doing it myself, I still am not comfortable. May be with a friend but don't trust myself enough to do such a time consuming effort.

Yes, my biting point was very high too. Try pumping your clutch pedal like 20 times and test the biting point again. If your biting point moves, then you definitely have a leak.

As for replacing the clutch, it's really not hard. The hardest part is actually removing and putting the transmission back together. You just need to follow the instructions in the manual. It took me 10 hours but I spent more time staring at the manual than working.

[suj999]

Tried the pumping thing.. from what I can feel, it made no difference.

[ovideatza]

Old problem, but I am in the same scenario with F10 520d ED manual gearbox.

When DMF was changed (very bad vibration) the mechanic told me to change also the clutch, although it had only 10.000km it was looking bad. So I bought Luk DMF and Sachs clutch (no LUK clutch was available at that time on my parts supplyer).
DMF was ok, but the clutch was having problems. From 1800-2000 rpm, at hard acceleration, it was slipping 200-400rpm, then everything was ok. In 3-4-5 gear.

So he took down the clutch, and it was looking good. I had it replaced with a second hand spare part, a BMW original clutch, to give it a try...A very good clutch, mechanic said that it is in perfect condition.

It is much better, but it is not perfect. Some very very slightly slipping, 100-200rpm, if you don't know the car you don' realise what happens.

Any ideea?
Maybe bad/ wrong fitting?

suj999 what was the solution?

Thanks.

[Stück]

I'm wondering if your "mechanics" are removing the shipping lock before bolting down the pressure plate because they lack the appropriate centering tools.

Doing so will cause the pressure plate to spring to its full adjusted position and on a new install this can and will cause slipping.

[Bmw doubles]

Originally Posted by Stück

I'm wondering if your "mechanics" are removing the shipping lock before bolting down the pressure plate because they lack the appropriate centering tools.

Doing so will cause the pressure plate to spring to its full adjusted position and on a new install this can and will cause slipping.

Agreed with @Stuck. I just did this with my mechanic. 2 things you have to have
1. the proper alignment tool. Very difficult to find.
2. Cannot unlock the pressure plate before the install.

Its a 600 dollar tool to reset the pressure plate that most mechanics don't have in their set to only use here and maybe there.

[ovideatza]

They have the tools needed, and excepting this 520d everything else I have done with them was ok, for 6-7 years now.

The SACHS clutch is sent back now, I hope the spare part shop will change it with a good one.
Maybe I'll try to go somewhere else to mount it back.