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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum Alignment Don't - Front Camber not in spec
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      09-18-2014, 09:31 PM   #1
f10inSD
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Alignment Don't - Front Camber not in spec

Hey team..

I took my 2012 528i non sport to a local shop recommended by an independent BMW shop I've used before…

When I got my alignment print out everything was within specs EXCEPT for the front camber both left and right. I did a few searches and some people claim that the front camber CANNOT be adjusted like the rear. Something about needed plates.

Is this true? (I was planning on returning to the shop to ask them why they did not get the front camber into spec)
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      09-19-2014, 02:11 AM   #2
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out of spec in what way?
I would guess the spec is something like -0.8 degrees.
if you have more than that, up to -1,5 I would be happy, less than spec I would not be happy.
A higher negative number will give you better cornering and less tire wear on the outside.
On my M3 I was running -1,5, on my 850 I am running -1,3.

Looking at the parts catalog, item #13 is for camber adjustment (the horse shoe shaped thing in the upper right corner).
However I doubt it can adjust much.




If your camber has a higher negative value than the spec I would not worry about it.
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      09-19-2014, 03:07 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noggie View Post
Looking at the parts catalog, item #13 is for camber adjustment (the horse shoe shaped thing in the upper right corner).
However I doubt it can adjust much.
The wishbone item #13 does come in three different 'lengths'. Standard part and a + & - length. If camber is out, then it may need the appropriate toleranced wishbone.

My question would be, why has it moved from specification with the original wishbone? Damage or wear in other suspension components?

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      09-19-2014, 08:20 AM   #4
f10inSD
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The sheet says the normal range is -0.1 to -0.9.
Both my fronts are positive. Left is 0.3 and Right is 0.1.

If I understand correctly... You CANNOT adjust front camber, I must purchase the above referenced parts?
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      09-19-2014, 12:05 PM   #5
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I'm pretty sure you can adjust, I had mine tracked recently and I'm sure they adjusted it. I will try and dig out the print out from the Hunter machine to verify
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      09-19-2014, 12:17 PM   #6
f10inSD
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Thanks Beast.

Was it done at the dealer or else where ?
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      09-19-2014, 05:17 PM   #7
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you need to get that fixed, you really don't want positive camber.

If yo imagine these lines as your wheels seen from the front of the car, / \ this is negative camber, | | this is zero degrees camber and \ / this is positive camber.

Since I am not at home I can't look at my car I cant help you out by checking myself.

There is in theory a cheaper solution, you could make oval holes like on the E46 M3 on the top mount. think the M3 was able to get about -1,2 degrees camber using just those holes, but not sure I would recommend that. Think I would get the -30mm new arms.
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      09-19-2014, 08:45 PM   #8
f10inSD
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Thanks for the responses.

Is 0.3 and 0.1 enough tilt to cause problems? I looked at my tires and do not see any uneven wear BUT i do hate that the camber is not dialed in to 0.0

Also, I did add 20in rims but i thought that would not create any camber.
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      09-20-2014, 01:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f10inSD View Post
Thanks for the responses.

Is 0.3 and 0.1 enough tilt to cause problems? I looked at my tires and do not see any uneven wear BUT i do hate that the camber is not dialed in to 0.0

Also, I did add 20in rims but i thought that would not create any camber.
Rims will not cause a camber change, however the shop has to set up the wheel alignment machine to the correct size wheel when the alignment is done to get the correct result.

do you have the before and the after values?
Or better, post the entire sheet.

Depending on the cars weight and your driving style a positive camber will give you excess tire wear on the outer half of the tire, especially the outer edge, this is because more force is exerted to the outside of the tire when turning when the camber is off. if you start to see evidence of wear on the tirewall this is a sign your camber is not negative enough.
Also the front end slip limit will be lower, meaning your car will understeer sooner with a negative camber.

The camber should not be 0.0, most BMW's use a camber from -0,5 to -1.0 as OEM settings.
My old E46 M3 was set to -0.8 stock, and even with that it would wear the outside of my tires during normal driving. I used the oval holes and got something like -1,2, but I eventually ended up with camber plates and running a -1,5 camber on the street, and -3 on the track.

To me you have 3 options.
1. change to a new stock camber arms to correct this.
2. change to adjustable camber arms.
3. lower the car.

If you plan to lower the car, this may be enough to get the camber within spec, as lowering the car will normally increase the negative camber.
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      09-20-2014, 04:07 AM   #10
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I got it done at an independent, but they have the same Hunter wheel alignment machine that BMW use. Make sure that any shop your using has this equipment. They hook up the machine and show you on a screen the tolerences on all wheels, both camber and track. They then adjust those that need adjusting and give you a final print out showing both before and after. The report is easy to interpret as the figures are highlighted in a RAG status, obviously red - considerably out, amber - slightly out and green - within tolerance
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      09-20-2014, 09:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noggie View Post
There is in theory a cheaper solution, you could make oval holes like on the E46 M3 on the top mount. think the M3 was able to get about -1,2 degrees camber using just those holes, but not sure I would recommend that. Think I would get the -30mm new arms.
Remember the F10 /11 doesn't have any adjustable components connected to the spring/damper unit or mounting.

I not sure how much movement (if any) there is with top wishbone mounting bolts. But the design appears fixed from a quick visual.

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      09-20-2014, 10:08 AM   #12
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Here's are my results from my alignment.
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      09-20-2014, 10:13 AM   #13
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KDS 11

Tried to attach here's my results.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf KDS 11.pdf (167.4 KB, 1358 views)
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      09-20-2014, 10:39 AM   #14
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And here are the results from my alignment, minus my personal details...
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Tracking.pdf (560.2 KB, 885 views)
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      09-20-2014, 05:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
Remember the F10 /11 doesn't have any adjustable components connected to the spring/damper unit or mounting.

I not sure how much movement (if any) there is with top wishbone mounting bolts. But the design appears fixed from a quick visual.

HighlandPete
Yes I guess you are right.
My old E46 M3 is the only BMW I have seen this camber adjustment possibility on.
I doubted the F10 had this.
Older 3 series I have owned there was a bolt with an offset you could buy to do very small camber adjustments, I know they had this for the E30 and E36. the factory bolt was straight, but this offset bult was available.

I guess the F10 does not have any adjustments, so we are back to the 3 options I mentioned above.
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      03-19-2019, 08:32 AM   #16
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Hi
Just had my alignment checked, front camber is out - in spec on the left, right side is +0.8

Is there any way to correct this?

Car is at 125k miles, no suspension parts have been changed whatsoever apart from tie rod ends this week (hence the alignment check)
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      03-19-2019, 09:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apples12 View Post
Hi
Just had my alignment checked, front camber is out - in spec on the left, right side is +0.8

Is there any way to correct this?

Car is at 125k miles, no suspension parts have been changed whatsoever apart from tie rod ends this week (hence the alignment check)
Either you'll need a new OEM top wishbone with the correct setting to get back in tolerance.

Or, the other option is an aftermarket wishbone from Meyle. It has an adjustable ball joint.
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      03-23-2019, 02:12 AM   #18
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The only ways I see for the front camber to change are:-

1) Some lower suspension component(s) or the front crossmember is bent, pulling the bottoms of the wheels inboard.

2) The mounts for the upper wishbones have moved outwards.

In either case it would suggest some major trauma to the vehicle or a slow stretch of some component or mounting to move things.
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      03-23-2019, 07:24 PM   #19
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You could always put a drop on it which will naturally lower your camber. I’m lowered on H&R 1” drop and my camber is -0.6 and -0.5 which I’m perfectly happy with.
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      02-04-2020, 01:27 PM   #20
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Need help for front camber angles

Please Help everyone!
I had a 2011 bmw 550i w/ M pkg, my right front camber angle is +1.1 degree, left front is -1.1 degree. Is this bad enough to replace the control arm? Thanks for your help!
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      02-04-2020, 01:28 PM   #21
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Please Help Noggie,
I had a 2011 bmw 550i w/ M pkg, my right front camber angle is +1.1 degree, left front is -1.1 degree. Is this bad enough to replace the control arm? Thanks for your help!
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      02-05-2020, 09:24 PM   #22
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They just need to pop the pins at the top of hat then you can gain like .7 of camber.
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