[Stealth_Bomber]

Is there a way to install these http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-HID-Kit...ID-p/xt-h7.htm in the cornering lights to replace the overly dim halogen cornering bulbs in there? Was told by friend NOT to even try as adding "extra wires or electrical items" will short out vehicles sensitive electronics.....??? Anyone?

Or option 2 what is the best and brightest bulb in the H7's?

[Creynolds]

Originally Posted by Stealth_Bomber

Is there a way to install these http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-HID-Kit...ID-p/xt-h7.htm in the cornering lights to replace the overly dim halogen cornering bulbs in there? Was told by friend NOT to even try as adding "extra wires or electrical items" will short out vehicles sensitive electronics.....??? Anyone?

Or option 2 what is the best and brightest bulb in the H7's?

Ahahahahahahhaahhahahahah wow I'm dying I love when people make blind statements.
I do electrical audio video security accessories, on cars for a living (also residential and commercial). You ain't gonna hurt nothing.
First if you USE A RELAY system . You can wire a stand alone system to be able to use your DRL stock wiring as ur 86 connection allowing the relay to open and pass ur own directly fused into battery 30 connection 12v+ side. Provide a solid ground on ur 85 connection and ur 87connection as ur power out to the HIDS for the drl spot

[Stealth_Bomber]

Originally Posted by Creynolds

Ahahahahahahhaahhahahahah wow I'm dying I love when people make blind statements.
I do electrical audio video security accessories, on cars for a living (also residential and commercial). You ain't gonna hurt nothing.
First if you USE A RELAY system . You can wire a stand alone system to be able to use your DRL stock wiring as ur 86 connection allowing the relay to open and pass ur own directly fused into battery 30 connection 12v+ side. Provide a solid ground on ur 85 connection and ur 87connection as ur power out to the HIDS for the drl spot

Holy mother of all kindergarten children...... speak plain English to me you lost me with all those numbers . I am just looking to upgrade the cornering bulbs when you turn the wheel left or right that's the only time those bulbs come on and when you put it in reverse I've noticed. Not the DRL's

[Creynolds]

Originally Posted by Creynolds

Ahahahahahahhaahhahahahah wow I'm dying I love when people make blind statements.
I do electrical audio video security accessories, on cars for a living (also residential and commercial). You ain't gonna hurt nothing.
First if you USE A RELAY system . You can wire a stand alone system to be able to use your DRL stock wiring as ur 86 connection allowing the relay to open and pass ur own directly fused into battery 30 connection 12v+ side. Provide a solid ground on ur 85 connection and ur 87connection as ur power out to the HIDS for the drl spot

Take a 4 print Relay and Female connectors to fit over the relay connections. My advice is to ore wire the relay before instal. At ur workbench. Install the female spades to your hid connections.
Most HIDS are ballasts first . Considering they source strong power I would say 14gauge would be plenty just not some 22g, 8-10g is insane. Take a 3 foot section of 12-14gauge wire and strip a small section of insulation from it. Ring terminal connection (not huge) to it. Solder it in. Tape it heat shrink it.
2nd. Other side wire in a 2 wire harness from autozone or local parts store (5bucks) that will fit ballast.. remove insulation splice into the wire just used. (Slide ur heatshrknk on first and just push it out of the way. Then solder tape heat shrink

You should now have One wire with a harness on one side and ring terminal on the other. Harness should be needing one more wire. (+ side) You will repeat the same process with another wire same length. But no ring terminal just leave bare wire for now

Now harness should have one ring connector and one bare wire attached to two 3 foot length wires. ( attach ballast and bulb and opposite side and touch ring to ground and bare wire end to positive .

Positive on positive negative to negative on battery. Does the ballast turn on and bulb start turning on? Yes? Then your connections and solder are good. No? Check polarity and cold solder /connections

Repeat for opposite side.

Now take your relay and prepare to make its connections. Decide on location for relay and for tapping power from battery. Measure length between battery and relay. And cut wire with room for movement and running it along its path. Remove insulation both sides and solder tape shrink a female spade connection to the wire. Opposite side remove small section of insulation and keep bare.

From relay to drl measure wire and tap into Drl 12+ (not ground) repeat space connection for relay side solder tape shrink and opposite side leave bare.

Find a strong ground and measure relay to ground location. Cut wire and crimp solder tape shrink spade to one end and a ring terminal to the other.
Last cut wire from relay to HID positive locations .
(Your two previous hid 12+ for your ballast power side will make a 3 way connection to this so cut to length.)
Remove insulation. Spade relay side crimp tape shrink and remove insulation hid side leave bare.

Now you should have your HID BALLAST 2 wire harness all set for both sides. They should both have power and ground .(ground ring 12+ is bare)
Relay should have a power connection 12+ with spade relay side and battery side with choice connection to battery.
As well as a wire for second signal from drl with spade connection to relay and bare wire to your drl tap +
Lastly your power out should be running to make a 3 way connection to your ballast power wires.
Take 2 ballast power and s twist them together with the power out from relay bare wire . Solder tape shrink.
Take your ring terminal to ballast and ground out in choice grounding location. That's why the ring terminal so you can screw in.
Attach your ground for the relay to frame and spade to the relay.
Lastly ground your ballast terminal rings to frame. And secure relay . And wiring . Make sure water can't reach.

This will allow you to keep ur drl harness and attach with your hid and fit them perfectly as well as not sourcing any of the stock power for your ballast. No risk your good to go.
Switch will still work as usual and auto will work.
Make sure to use online fuse between battery and relay inlet.

Relay set up
30-12vPower In
85-Ground In
86- DRL stock wire (+) tap
87- power out to 3 way connection

Inline fuse between 30 and battery.
30 wire 12g
85 wire 10-12g
86 wire 14-22g
87 wire 12-14g

[Creynolds]

Originally Posted by Stealth_Bomber

Holy mother of all kindergarten children...... speak plain English to me you lost me with all those numbers . I am just looking to upgrade the cornering bulbs when you turn the wheel left or right that's the only time those bulbs come on and when you put it in reverse I've noticed. Not the DRL's

Well you can use this for any system .
Relay your cornering bulbs the same way

30-12+ battery
85 -ground
86-+cornering bulb tap
87-+'power out to ballast

[Creynolds]

I'm a draw a simple picture for you and relay diagram for you and diy

[Stealth_Bomber]

Originally Posted by Creynolds

Take a 4 print Relay and Female connectors to fit over the relay connections. My advice is to ore wire the relay before instal. At ur workbench. Install the female spades to your hid connections.
Most HIDS are ballasts first . Considering they source strong power I would say 14gauge would be plenty just not some 22g, 8-10g is insane. Take a 3 foot section of 12-14gauge wire and strip a small section of insulation from it. Ring terminal connection (not huge) to it. Solder it in. Tape it heat shrink it.
2nd. Other side wire in a 2 wire harness from autozone or local parts store (5bucks) that will fit ballast.. remove insulation splice into the wire just used. (Slide ur heatshrknk on first and just push it out of the way. Then solder tape heat shrink

You should now have One wire with a harness on one side and ring terminal on the other. Harness should be needing one more wire. (+ side) You will repeat the same process with another wire same length. But no ring terminal just leave bare wire for now

Now harness should have one ring connector and one bare wire attached to two 3 foot length wires. ( attach ballast and bulb and opposite side and touch ring to ground and bare wire end to positive .

Positive on positive negative to negative on battery. Does the ballast turn on and bulb start turning on? Yes? Then your connections and solder are good. No? Check polarity and cold solder /connections

Repeat for opposite side.

Now take your relay and prepare to make its connections. Decide on location for relay and for tapping power from battery. Measure length between battery and relay. And cut wire with room for movement and running it along its path. Remove insulation both sides and solder tape shrink a female spade connection to the wire. Opposite side remove small section of insulation and keep bare.

From relay to drl measure wire and tap into Drl 12+ (not ground) repeat space connection for relay side solder tape shrink and opposite side leave bare.

Find a strong ground and measure relay to ground location. Cut wire and crimp solder tape shrink spade to one end and a ring terminal to the other.
Last cut wire from relay to HID positive locations .
(Your two previous hid 12+ for your ballast power side will make a 3 way connection to this so cut to length.)
Remove insulation. Spade relay side crimp tape shrink and remove insulation hid side leave bare.

Now you should have your HID BALLAST 2 wire harness all set for both sides. They should both have power and ground .(ground ring 12+ is bare)
Relay should have a power connection 12+ with spade relay side and battery side with choice connection to battery.
As well as a wire for second signal from drl with spade connection to relay and bare wire to your drl tap +
Lastly your power out should be running to make a 3 way connection to your ballast power wires.
Take 2 ballast power and s twist them together with the power out from relay bare wire . Solder tape shrink.
Take your ring terminal to ballast and ground out in choice grounding location. That's why the ring terminal so you can screw in.
Attach your ground for the relay to frame and spade to the relay.
Lastly ground your ballast terminal rings to frame. And secure relay . And wiring . Make sure water can't reach.

This will allow you to keep ur drl harness and attach with your hid and fit them perfectly as well as not sourcing any of the stock power for your ballast. No risk your good to go.
Switch will still work as usual and auto will work.
Make sure to use online fuse between battery and relay inlet.

Relay set up
30-12vPower In
85-Ground In
86- DRL stock wire (+) tap
87- power out to 3 way connection

Inline fuse between 30 and battery.
30 wire 12g
85 wire 10-12g
86 wire 14-22g
87 wire 12-14g

Wow thank you my friend that was very-very detailed Where exactly are you located in the South East?

[Creynolds]

I'm like the wind. I'm in South Carolina now, but travel to Florida all the time. Family in Maryland and grew up in philly so back and forth. I enjoy driving but I enjoy helping more. If ever needed I would be happy to help with electrical for anyone .

Just finished 2x2018 zo6 led jobs and a 1/500 white on white on white camaro 99ss full 8.2 surround touch screen two amps touchscreen Apple car play. Leds under the car in the car, upgraded all interior lights , and even did bay lights.
Multiple USB ports on pressure switches and mag switches. Lol you name it

Complete stand alone custom fuse box hidden, so it's not messing with stock wiring .
Here's some pictures of other work. Diagrams shortly after
I'll link it in the diy relay setup

[Creynolds]

Originally Posted by Stealth_Bomber

Wow thank you my friend that was very-very detailed Where exactly are you located in the South East?

Okay here's pictures description to follow

[Creynolds]

Sorry for handwriting !!
But your 86-"signal" wire should be tapped into your positive of your cornering lights harness .
Your 87- will Y into ballasts (+) for HID

A relay is like an Amp in car audio. Most people know this example. Amps for subwoofers or any audio have 3 connections for power ground remote.
Your power and ground can be set up, but without remote never turns on. This remote simulated the radio wires power only being on with accessories mode or when the cars running.

This is how your amps turn on and off, one hot 12v+ one ground (-) and Secondary signal/remote 12v +

Requires two Hots and a ground to send out the power.

SIDE NOTE.
Relays remove switches and allow you to tap anything in the car to create the same effect using the 86 connection.
But it doesn't draw power from it to power your accessories.(87)

As soon as the relay receives a signal (positive 12v+ power ) from the 86/signal/remote wire turns on


It allows the 30/battery to send power through to 87(accessories) completing the circuit and accomplishing our goals.

Manipulating relays can be very helpful and even fun at all the possibilities

T

[Surly73]

Urm - the post I read was about cornering lights, not DRLs. The cornering lights are faded on and off as required, not just switched. All this relay stuff isn't going to duplicate the same effect as the stock halogens.

Personally, I would think that an LED solution to achieve desired colour temperature (or whatever the real issue is) would work a lot better.

[zugellos]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Urm - the post I read was about cornering lights, not DRLs. The cornering lights are faded on and off as required, not just switched. All this relay stuff isn't going to duplicate the same effect as the stock halogens.

Personally, I would think that an LED solution to achieve desired colour temperature (or whatever the real issue is) would work a lot better.

I agree. The complex solution as detailed earlier is nice and all, but for something that merely stays lit only for a short while I don't see the point.

If H7 is the bulb type for those cornering lights, then wouldn't a CREE or comparable LED H7 bulb suffice too? If that be the case, then there are a few already available on the market - less all the wiring

[Creynolds]

It’s really not complex and you guys are still notGetting it . Your 86 Wire is taped into
Your cornering lights positive wire. It will work as the same
As ur stock setup.
This is an explanation because I thought he said deal but then noticed and clarified to cornering lights . Also. It’s not complex it’s very simple actually. And can be used to simulate any setup inside a car, and not be running excessive amperage through stock wiring .

[Stealth_Bomber]

Ok found a pair OSRAM Super Bright Premium High Wattage Headlight Bulb H7 but they are 80watts instead of the standard 55watts. Will they melt the harness or plastic????

Why you ask I like brightness and think these will put some light out my community and streets are pitch black at night almost hit the neighbor's cow that got out one night standing in middle of the dirt road

[Stealth_Bomber]

Originally Posted by Creynolds

Okay here's pictures description to follow

Man thanks for that pics help a lot.

[Creynolds]

Originally Posted by Stealth_Bomber

Ok found a pair OSRAM Super Bright Premium High Wattage Headlight Bulb H7 but they are 80watts instead of the standard 55watts. Will they melt the harness or plastic????

Why you ask I like brightness and think these will put some light out my community and streets are pitch black at night almost hit the neighbor's cow that got out one night standing in middle of the dirt road

Originally Posted by Stealth_Bomber

Ok found a pair OSRAM Super Bright Premium High Wattage Headlight Bulb H7 but they are 80watts instead of the standard 55watts. Will they melt the harness or plastic????

Why you ask I like brightness and think these will put some light out my community and streets are pitch black at night almost hit the neighbor's cow that got out one night standing in middle of the dirt road

Honestly the amperage is found by dividing the volts by watt : 12 volts and watt rating 80...
80/12
6.67 amps. So only roughly about 7 amps .
Watt rating / input voltage

Then if you look at your first equation 50/12 =4.25 roughly so 4.5 amps. Not too much different. And I think that it's still safe but let me have you consider something else.

Led use about 85% leas power drawn from the same light equivalent. So if it says it's an 80 watt bulb it draws about 7 amps standard or 1 amp led with the brightness that's 80 Watts.

That's something that not only to consider but maybe look into. You could draw much less on the amperage (might need resistors) and create the light brightness without increasing risks. I always do my electrical on stand alone wiring except for 86 signal wires . That way it's fused and heat shrinked separate from all of our components

[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by Creynolds

Sorry for handwriting !!
But your 86-"signal" wire should be tapped into your positive of your cornering lights harness .
Your 87- will Y into ballasts (+) for HID

A relay is like an Amp in car audio. Most people know this example. Amps for subwoofers or any audio have 3 connections for power ground remote.
Your power and ground can be set up, but without remote never turns on. This remote simulated the radio wires power only being on with accessories mode or when the cars running.

This is how your amps turn on and off, one hot 12v+ one ground (-) and Secondary signal/remote 12v +

Requires two Hots and a ground to send out the power.

SIDE NOTE.
Relays remove switches and allow you to tap anything in the car to create the same effect using the 86 connection.
But it doesn't draw power from it to power your accessories.(87)

As soon as the relay receives a signal (positive 12v+ power ) from the 86/signal/remote wire turns on


It allows the 30/battery to send power through to 87(accessories) completing the circuit and accomplishing our goals.

Manipulating relays can be very helpful and even fun at all the possibilities

T

Ever drive up to NYC?

[Creynolds]

Ya all the time why what's good