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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Navigation, iDrive, Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Phone, Coding Standard speakers upgraded to OEM Top Hifi (retrofit)
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      12-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #89
vince59
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Hi I am not sure if the same component will fit the X6 but I believe they will as the holes for the loudspeakers are probably the same for standard reason.
I do not know the location of the tweeters in your car but once you have checked it I guess it will be very easy to do the job. Adding the tweeter will be the easiest thing if compared to open the door panel.
Tweeters are very cheap second hand..
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      02-12-2014, 08:19 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Micah... this is the Stereo system, not the HiFi. The 6.5" woofers are connected in parallel to that single mid. Adding a tweeter to the mid will make 3 speakers connected in parallel, thus increasing the load/decreasing the impedance unless something is done with the woofer.

The iDrive unit can handle 2ohms according to BMW. Less than that and the unit will overheat.

This has to be done the right way.
Sorry for the ridiculous delay in response. Crazy busy over the last couple of months.

In any case, that's just not true from a practical standpoint.

Impedance with a speaker isn't fixed. It's dynamic, i.e. based on the frequency a speaker is playing. Nominal impedance is just a rating / estimate given by manufacturers and only loosely represents the actual resistance behavior of a speaker.

A tweeter placed in parallel as described above doesn't appreciably change the impedance load seen by the amplifier, especially with an in-line capacitor (which dramatically increases impedance below a certain frequency range). Given that the impedance characteristics of virtually all speakers are that they rise rapidly with frequency increases, the real load seen by the amp would remain essentially unchanged when adding a tweeter in this context.
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      02-12-2014, 08:21 PM   #91
Micah D. Cranman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Again, if your standard system is the Stereo then you should disconnect the woofers from the mid and then add the tweeters.

This has to be done anyways for two reasons, impedance and to make the woofers sound the best with what you got. They should have their own amplifier channel so each can be tuned/crossovered more efficiently. There is no filter or crossover between the woofer and the mid with the iDrive system, so the sound is just split (highs/mids/lows) by each speaker own frequency response and that's it.
Agreed that this is the best approach if adding an aftermarket amplifier, but not necessary otherwise (i.e. running off the built-in amp in the head / iDrive / etc.)
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      02-12-2014, 08:24 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fung0001 View Post
oh no
thanks tech


Manual says that it is compatible with 1 Series, 3 Series and X1
can't imagine why 5 series is not on the list
http://www.focal.com/en/dedicated-dr...050750531.html

may be first stage, cut woofer & install some compatible stuff like ifbmw-s ( rock & roll is not my cup of tea)
then second stage amp for woofer ( any cheap & simple installed amp in the market recommended?)
You could do that...

Or you could spend the same money and get every other speaker in your car as well, guaranteed performance, and guaranteed compatiblity.

http://www.bavsound.com/Stage-One/

Some reviews of our product if you're interested:

http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907084
http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=910027
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411465
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565491
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...ml#post4362913

(If you want more, let me know -- there are tons!)
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      02-12-2014, 08:26 PM   #93
Micah D. Cranman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince59 View Post
No honestly I think it is definitely ok, because there is difference if you make a parallel connection with two loudpseakers and no capacitors and two loudspeaker one being a tweeter with capacitor.

In the first case (two loudsp in parallel) it works according ohm law and the total impedance changes;

In the second case one loudsp (midrange/full) connected to a tweeter with capacitor in series DOES not affect at all the impedance or resistance value. NO EFFECT AT ALL. I made actual measurement and the total resistance was exactly the same with or without tweeter.

I also have doubt about woofer being in parallel with front speakers because in this case when you fader to rear no sound would come from woofer.
I tested my car and sound is always coming from woofer. The fader has only effect on speakers located on the door. And this makess sense to me. You don't want to lose woofer sound when you fader.

I hope I made myself clear
You're absolutely right -- see my post above about impedance and the impact on the load to the woofer in this context.
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      05-22-2014, 06:47 AM   #94
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Ok planning to change the speakers on a UK spec F10 with standard system - 6 speakers.

Going to remove the single speakers on the door & parcel shelf. Replace them with Top Hi-Fi spec speakers (Mid & Tweeters)
65139169693 (door mid x2)
65139184794 (door tweeters x2)
65139169690 (back Mid x2)
65139184795 (back tweeter x2)
Front tweeter grills. Left:51337275779 Right:51337275780

Altogether (4 mid 4 tweeters) works out around £400.

Has anyone tried this upgrade?
Instead of going for the Top HiFi could should I go down the HiFi route and get the mids and tweeters probably under £250? As I'm not changing the AMP should I just go with HiFi speakers and save the money spent going with Top-HiFi?

Not planning to change the subs or the amps at the moment.
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      08-25-2014, 12:43 PM   #95
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Hey, I just purchased an F11 M Sport Uk model (it is 2nd hand 2010 model F11). I find the speakers in my car terrible! I have the professional navigation.

Where there should be tweeters in the front doors, there are plastic blanking plates. The rear 2 doors do not have spaces visible for speakers. I am not sure, but I do not believe there is a speaker in the centre on the dash.

My questions are: can I just order all these parts and fit them? I.e. will there be cables waiting behind these cutouts waiting for me to connect them? I appreciate that there will need to be new trim purchased too.

Thanks
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      08-25-2014, 12:44 PM   #96
yanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suj999 View Post
Ok planning to change the speakers on a UK spec F10 with standard system - 6 speakers.

Going to remove the single speakers on the door & parcel shelf. Replace them with Top Hi-Fi spec speakers (Mid & Tweeters)
65139169693 (door mid x2)
65139184794 (door tweeters x2)
65139169690 (back Mid x2)
65139184795 (back tweeter x2)
Front tweeter grills. Left:51337275779 Right:51337275780

Altogether (4 mid 4 tweeters) works out around £400.

Has anyone tried this upgrade?
Instead of going for the Top HiFi could should I go down the HiFi route and get the mids and tweeters probably under £250? As I'm not changing the AMP should I just go with HiFi speakers and save the money spent going with Top-HiFi?

Not planning to change the subs or the amps at the moment.

did you get anywhere with this?
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      08-25-2014, 04:09 PM   #97
suj999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yanic View Post
did you get anywhere with this?
Yep, fitted all the speakers like I mentioned above. Sound does improve, especially after the front door replacement.

As for back door, no you can't add speakers to them. (no wire, amp don't have any more outputs ect)

But you can change the speakers on the back parcel self like I mentioned.
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      08-26-2014, 12:49 AM   #98
yanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suj999 View Post
Yep, fitted all the speakers like I mentioned above. Sound does improve, especially after the front door replacement.

As for back door, no you can't add speakers to them. (no wire, amp don't have any more outputs ect)

But you can change the speakers on the back parcel self like I mentioned.
I am in Haverhill. Do you think there is any chance I could come to see your handy work if you are in Essex?
I am pretty sure I just have the standard stereo system now.

I found a speaker in each front door. No tweeters, the space where they would be has a blanking plate. Back door R's have no speakers.

Infact I couldn't find any others although I am sure they are in the back somewhere. Its a f11.
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      08-26-2014, 06:29 PM   #99
suj999
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I don't mind if you want to come over on a weekend, but I'm in Redbridge (east London really) so could be really far for you to travel.

If you have the blacking cards in the front tweeter corner you have got the basic amp, like me.

Here is a link for a bit more discussion about the f11 and speaker upgrade.
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/84200-...-without-amps/
Also have a look at real OEM, will give you diagram about exactly where the back speakers are. And to buy the top HiFi parts keep an eye on eBay.de as you get far more there than the UK site.
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      08-28-2014, 03:29 PM   #100
yanic
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I decided in the end to replace the tweeters and mids with top hifi equivalents. I am aware that this puts more draw on the 667 amp due to the fact that the speakers are in paralell. (ref. technic's post higher up)

6513 9 184 794 Tweeter ordered!
65139169693 Speaker x2 ordered
2 x Tweeter Top hifi grilles ordered

Ordered these bits off German ebay 2nd hand and using a postal redirect service. (mailboxde)

The tweeters and the grilles were £50
The 4" top hifi mids were £35 each.

plus a further £15 for the postal forward. £135.

I would have loved to have purchased a full set of,

Tweeters / Grills / Front door speakers / Subs / Rear headlining mids (I drive an F11) / 2 channel or 4 channel amp.

Cambridge Audio quoted me about £780 for the whole lot but I just can't quite justify the expense. They promised better than the HKardon default install. They said they could get that closer to £600 for a 2 channel amp and not using the rear speakers. They said that the amp would go under the boot near the battery. Hertz speakers I believe were their choice.

Anyway, I've gone for the cheapy option (i do hope that it wont break my amp as it would be a shame to damage the idrive on this stereo car)

Not sure yet if I will install it, I dont have the panel removing tools (I guess I could order these off ebay) but again, Cambridge Audio said they would do the work for £55 in an hour and a halfs work. If it doesn't work out how I want or still not the quality I want, I guess I shall be going back to Cambridge Audio for the full whammy with the new amp.
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      08-29-2014, 05:12 PM   #101
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You won't damage the amp, the extra strain is hardly worth mentioning.

As for removing the panels, even on the F11 I hear the back is a doddle.

As for the front, if you follow the examples its easy enough, I wouldn't pay someone. I too ordered a removing tool from e bay for a fiver, but the speakers turned up before the tool. Having no patience what so ever, I removed the front panels and changed them over without the tools. And didn't break anything. But the tools would have helped..
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      08-29-2014, 05:13 PM   #102
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      08-30-2014, 10:12 AM   #103
yanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suj999 View Post
You won't damage the amp, the extra strain is hardly worth mentioning.

As for removing the panels, even on the F11 I hear the back is a doddle.

As for the front, if you follow the examples its easy enough, I wouldn't pay someone. I too ordered a removing tool from e bay for a fiver, but the speakers turned up before the tool. Having no patience what so ever, I removed the front panels and changed them over without the tools. And didn't break anything. But the tools would have helped..
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
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      09-28-2014, 11:32 AM   #104
yanic
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Just finished fitting some TopHifi mids and tweeters to my 520d and I am mighty impressed with the sound quality improvement. That will do me fine for sure.

Got the Mids off ebay.de for £50 for the pair and the tweeters were £35 for the pair with the OEM grilles. I bought a panel removal kit for £5. All in all I was very impressed.

I did however seem to snap the small bottom clip of the black sheath of the door opening handle, but only half snap it and it doesnt have any effect anyway. It still clips on just fine. When the day comes that I want more from the stereo, I can always go back to Cambridge Audio and spend £800 or so upgrading the whole lot with a new amplifier under the boot.

If anyone is around north of London I am happy to let you have a listen. I'd also love to hear someone who has in fact put a new amp and new speakers in to hear what it might sound like.

Last edited by yanic; 09-28-2014 at 11:38 AM..
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      02-08-2015, 01:15 PM   #105
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bmw f07 subwoofer upgrade

hi there

i purchased Ampire subwoofers which i though it was plug and play but i ended up returning everything back without connecting it, as the ampire subwoofer have 2 connection only ( positive and negative) and the car have that connectot with 4 slots , can u please advise how u did it or where as i need the same solution as u did so i will not cut the car connector ( so from the 4 pins to positive and negative )


thanks






Quote:
Originally Posted by cjp2k View Post
I have completed the install, and can confirm that the Subs ARE NOT plug and play.

I got some second hand subs from ebay.de and they came with the connector and partial wiring.

The connecter on the car is slightly different and wont plug in and as said before you need to bridge the smaller wires with the bigger wires, I got a loom made up from my local auto electrician to connect the ebay plug with my oem plug and not have to cut any wires

No coding is required just plug in and away you go.

TIP... if you change the subs, remove the under seat air pipe as it makes fitting the slightly bigger sub easier...
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      03-01-2015, 08:36 AM   #106
gtthree
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There are a couple of other details missing from this post that may help others and also keep all the data under one thread:

Front centre woofer/tweeter - you need to five screws to mount the BMW part number is: 07 14 9 185 673

Rear Tweeter - in order to mount these in the precut section you need the following to do both sides:
4 screws - BMW part number: 07 11 9 905 746 - these are the same as the rear woofer screws.
4 body nuts - BMW part number: 07 12 9 904 150 - these fit onto the rear deck to allow you to mount your HK tweeters as OEM intended.

These body nuts are already present on the rear woofer mounting points.

Hope this helps someone.
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      03-02-2015, 07:49 AM   #107
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Absolutely wonderful, thank you so much for this!!! A True gift!
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      03-05-2015, 07:59 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yolo360 View Post
Hey Guys,

My F10 arrived with me for only a few weeks now. I have done about 150miles on the clock since delivery and the speakers are just disasterous. Its worse then my little runabout Merc CLC!

Ok so upgrade was needed and I done my research and orderd the chosen option I wanted to upgrade too. I first read up on Focal speakers etc.. but I wanted everything OEM and not tamper with the car with a new aftermarket amp install/ re-wiring etc..

Firstly I investigated the vehicle with its current speakers housings etc..
Rear parcel shelf: to my surprise its the tweeter positions was already there. Simple plug & Play.



Second: Front center dash:
Opened grill, investigated no wiring. So left this as it is.


Took the A-Piller plastic off to discover the underside foam is ready for tweeters. (It doesnt matter as the tweeter grills comes with new ones)


I deicided on the full Top Hifi Speakers which is the top premium speaker kit from BMW just below the B&O they offer.

Right the parts I ordered consisted of:
4 x Top Hifi Mid speakers 6513 9169693-02
2 x Top Hifi Rear tweeters 6513 91847950-2
2 x Top Hifi Front sweeters 6513 9 184 794-02
2 x Top Hifi subwoofers. 6513 9241119-01
2 x Front tweeter grills. Left:51337275779 Right:51337275780



Tutorial:
I started off with the front doors:

- Remove the decor trim. Simply pull outwards with a little force. No tabs will break. Once popped out there is a large silver clip that you have to push up to release the trim out. Then slide the trim forwards to release the back secure tabs.



- Remove 2 main screws holding the door card (Marked with red X) You have to removed the door handle black trim to get the the second one.


- Once removed, ply door hard off with your hands. Start next to the hinges and work your way around.


- Once popped off then let it lie down and use the door/ seat to hold it, leaving it flat down so its easy to work with.



- Simple undo the 3 speaker nuts and pop the new on and then plug new tweeter in.



Now put it all back the same together the same way you took it apart.

Front doors done:



Rear parcel shelf.
- Pop cover off

- undo the torx screw securing the original speakers


- You will have to simply cut some material away as the TOP HIFI Mids are larger, so just simply cut the side material away so the new speaker fit tight. The tweeter is a direct fit. You have to connect original speaker cable to the new Mid and then the tweeter into the new Mid. Same as the front door cards.


You will have to create new screw holes. Simply screw the screw into the parcel shelf material and it secures it tightly. You will have to dremel a small bit of material on the speaker grill so it fits perfectly.


Front Subs.

- Undo 4 Torx on the seats lean it back so you can access the floor speaker cover.
- Undo 4 Torx to take speaker cover off
- Discount sub
- Unscrew 2 x nuts
- Fold partial carpet up to create room to lift up the subs
- Put new subs in.
- Re-wire needed: standard subs have 4 connectsions in the subs and the TOP HIFI has only 2. I guess its 2 x small and 2 x large cables. Simply bridge the small cables with the large cables and connect using same socket.
- Reinstall everything.

Everything is plug and play. Took me around 4 hours to do everything.

Verdict: So worth it, the sound is sensational/ incrediable! Full volume has no distortion and very nice bass.

I hope this topic will inspire the owners with the basic speakers.

Thanks for reading.
Great! Can you explain a little more on this:
I guess its 2 x small and 2 x large cables. Simply bridge the small cables with the large cables and connect using same socket.

Small+ large cables (+) connect to one socket & the same for another pole (-)?
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      05-13-2016, 03:17 PM   #109
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Hello

I recently upgraded my f10 standard speakers to hifi speakers, without the amp. I just upgraded the speakers and tweeters from standard audio to hifi. It seems that the cic is pumping too much power into the mids becauae they aound bloated very quicky, i can t even turn the sound to half. I installed filtera to the tweeters but not to the mids.

This topic made me do the upgrade without recoding and amp so I did. I now have an unusable audio in my car.

Do you think adding a crossover or filters would balance the mids? The tweeters sound great, huge improvement after adding them. The guys at the audio shop told me to try a crossover and if that doesn t improve it i should try adding filter otherwise just put back the standard ones. Any thoughts?


Thanks
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      05-14-2016, 04:14 AM   #110
Apples12
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Hi all,

just read through most of the thread - really great!

quick question for those in the know...

I have standard speakers - is it safe and ok to just add the tweeters in the front and rear or should i really add an amp?

if adding an amp is required/better/safer - what is the extent of the wiring for the amp? is it difficult? (i have retrofitted a reversing camera so not new to wiring on my f10)

do i have to add the under seat subwoofers? bass isn't my end-goal - just clearer sound for my spoken-word podcasts

thank you!
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