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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Advice on which 535i to buy please |
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07-05-2015, 05:02 PM | #1 |
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Advice on which 535i to buy please
Hey guys,
This is my first post as the owner of a 2012 M Sport 535i. I've had the car one day, and love it. A few hours ago, I was checking the dealer's website and they listed another 2012 M Sport 535i with 15k more miles than mine for $6k less... Here's the comparison: My car: 2012 M Sport 535i Black/Black 29k miles 1 owner Price $38k The other car: 2012 M Sport 535i Sophisto Gray/Black interior 45k miles 1 owner Price $31k I have the option of returning the car, no questions asked and without any kind of penalty... What would you guys do? I am buying the 5 year, 100k mile warranty either way. It basically comes down to exterior color and 15k difference in miles... and I could potentially save $6k.... Thanks in advance. Vik |
07-05-2015, 06:27 PM | #2 | |
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07-05-2015, 07:43 PM | #3 |
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07-05-2015, 10:39 PM | #4 |
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07-05-2015, 10:46 PM | #5 |
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If the monthly is not that much more for the lower miles I would go with that. Isn't it about a 100 dollar a month more every $10k? I guess that would depend on your APR. if it's a difference between 350 a month or 500 then I would go with the 350 because you haven't even touch insurance yet.
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07-05-2015, 10:49 PM | #6 |
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Hey Vik,
As you know the price premium of your current car is due to lower miles which generally means the car stays in warranty for a longer period versus the other car. Take your current car with 29k versus the additional 16k of the other car @45k miles, if you were to drive the industry standard - between 10k and 15k miles for the first year of ownership, your current car would still retain its factory warranty and be between 39k -44K miles versus the other car at 55k- 60K miles. Of course, time plays a significant part as well as the factory warranty lasts either 50k miles or 4 years whichever comes first . Take a close look at the build dates and ask the CA (client advisor) which month each car's factory warranty expires which I believe is based on the first service date but don't quote me on this.) Since you say both cars have similar options and the difference only comes down to cosmetics I would return the car you have now, take the other car with 45K miles, get the difference worked out into some type of BMW warranty/maintenance plan or CPO it and call it a day. You already decided you will keep the car for 5 years /100k miles, get the proper protection for "over the years" maintenance and broken parts with the BMW warranty which is hassle free. I bought my car with low miles and took out an aftermarket warranty which is well regarded yet below the standards of BMW. For each visit I must remove any modifications (muffler deletes, downpipe, jb4 with ff, intake, ect) in order to get the car repaired or the warranty company will void on the basis of modifications which aren't "recommended by the manufacturer". With BMW, even with my mods, the dealership would cover any issues as long as they weren't directly related to the modifications no questions asked. (I wont name the dealer but they are excellent). I recently had some work done to the tune of $4k (covered by the warranty company) but It was a pain in the rear to get them to cover it even though it was straight forward. I removed my jb4, intake, muffler delete - which I developed a clamp system for easier removal and OEM muffler installations- downpipe and all other mods to take the car in for diagnostics. After a week the warranty company declined the work, and I had to pay the diagnostic fee for my car sitting at the dealership not getting any work done. Nice. So I reinstalled my mods the day after. The day after I reinstalled my mods the warranty company wants to do the work as there was a discrepancy between the adjuster and the dealer ect ect, long story short, I have to remove the mods I just reinstalled and install stock components. The day after, I installed my mods again. Its a good thing I can do everything myself or o'd be paying a shop each time I had to remove and reinstall a part provided they had a clear schedule to accommodate me. Do you really want to go through this for the next 3-4 years if you decide to mod a car and get an aftermarket warranty? I bought my car with low miles thinking I wasn't going to drive it alot but I did (im at 51k miles). If you decide to drive your car with 29K miles more than you intended, kiss that lower mileage premium goodbye when its time to sell. You'll lose money one way or another, but I'd rather take a hit with depreciation over the mechanical and electrical mine field of an aging F10 any day! Im digressing... To make a long story short I would: - Return the 29K car - Use some of the extra money to CPO the 45K mile car or take out an extended warranty/maintenance plan from BMW and put the rest back into the car or pocket it or - Complain to the CA to get an excellent deal on the warranty plan and with the leftovers, use it to lower the amount of the money borrowed (if you financed) and try to get an adjustment on the monthly payment/interest rate or prefferably, give me the rest so I can get a set of forgestar f14 SDC for my F10 |
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07-06-2015, 07:19 AM | #7 |
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Vik,
If you think about it, your 2012 model car with 45,000 miles on it has a full year's worth of mileage on top of it compared to the other. I would return it and get the one with lower mileage. Remember, lower mileage means less wear and tear. I'm selling my loaded 2014 535i M-spt for $54,500. I only have $7,800 miles on it. I'm about to start a forum to ask ppl if I sold it for a good price. V/r, Chris |
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07-06-2015, 08:48 AM | #8 |
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07-06-2015, 01:24 PM | #9 |
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Personally, I would typically go with the lower mile car... lately my experience is the higher milaege cars are more worn out, (ie: worn steam bolsters, scratched trims, etc). if the exterior and interior condition is the same then i would say go with the cheaper car. Save you 6k for other stuff you want to buy.
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07-06-2015, 07:20 PM | #10 |
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Thanks for all the great posts guys. I'm really leaning toward just keeping my car. It honestly doesn't make that much more of a difference per month.
Plus, from what I can tell, my car is very very clean and was responsibly maintained (records). From the pictures on the dealer's website I can already see scuffs and slight bolster wear on the car with 45k. Still have a few days to make a decision...we'll see! In the mean time, I'll post some pictures! |
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07-08-2015, 03:08 PM | #12 |
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I say keep it, enjoy it. It's gorgeous. I recently checked KBB out of pure curiosity to forecast how much more my car would be worth at the end of the lease I just started, based on 2 levels of mileage. The last 2 years on my last car I put very, very few miles on it, so wanted to see if my 550 would be worth buying out if the same happens on this one. Since mine is a '15, I used a '12 and put in 15,000 miles vs the defaulted avg miles (45k I think). To my surprise, the book on it was only around $2k difference with very low mileage vs avg miles. It could be worth going to look at the other car you're exploring and see just why it's so much cheaper. Doesn't seem to me that the mileage is the only difference.
More over, you bought a car you were happy with, at a price you were happy with… I find it's best not to window shop from there. Move on and enjoy your purchase. Good luck either way. |
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07-08-2015, 07:17 PM | #13 | |
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