oil in vacuum reservoir

vtataru · 10-04-2021, 05:41 PM

I keep getting drivetrain malfunction daily. i get 120308 intermittent fault code, charge-airpressure control, plausability pressure too low. i remove the engine cover and there was oil in the vacuum reservoir. can anyobody advise if it's a faulty vacuum pump or solenoid or wastegate? looked it up online and I can't get a def answer. thank you

95blkmax · 10-05-2021, 09:33 AM

on PWG N20s it's not an easy diag. A few things can cause that code. I will focus solely on this vacuum oil situation as it is a known issue being presented...

How are the vac lines from the pump to the engine cover/ reservoir, and from there to the solenoid? Oil could be present at normal amounts, but if the lines are dri-rotted they could collapse under vacuum and cause this code. Oil in the reservoir isn't uncommon at all. Just how much oil are we talking about though? a drip of oil is normal. A pouring stream is likely a failed/ failing vac pump.

Note that if it is in fact a pouring amount of oil, if that oil made its way to the solenoid, it is POSSIBLE to clean it out and it work just fine after. Certainly worth a shot at that point (spray brake parts cleaner into it and let it drip out til clean, then a light quick spray of WD40 to prevent rusting inside). If upon replacing pump, cleaning out lines and solenoid, the code is still present, you'd want to replace that solenoid next (or honestly, if it's the original solenoid... just replace it along with the pump and be done with it).

vtataru · 10-14-2021, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95blkmax

on PWG N20s it's not an easy diag. A few things can cause that code. I will focus solely on this vacuum oil situation as it is a known issue being presented...

How are the vac lines from the pump to the engine cover/ reservoir, and from there to the solenoid? Oil could be present at normal amounts, but if the lines are dri-rotted they could collapse under vacuum and cause this code. Oil in the reservoir isn't uncommon at all. Just how much oil are we talking about though? a drip of oil is normal. A pouring stream is likely a failed/ failing vac pump.

Note that if it is in fact a pouring amount of oil, if that oil made its way to the solenoid, it is POSSIBLE to clean it out and it work just fine after. Certainly worth a shot at that point (spray brake parts cleaner into it and let it drip out til clean, then a light quick spray of WD40 to prevent rusting inside). If upon replacing pump, cleaning out lines and solenoid, the code is still present, you'd want to replace that solenoid next (or honestly, if it's the original solenoid... just replace it along with the pump and be done with it).

there is no oil present in the line towards the solenoid. I guess i just need to change them both like you said. Thank you?
P.S. any recommendation on vacuum pump brands? i've seen hudson brand that is half the price of a Vaico one

musclesmarinara75 · 10-15-2021, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtataru

I keep getting drivetrain malfunction daily. i get 120308 intermittent fault code, charge-airpressure control, plausability pressure too low. i remove the engine cover and there was oil in the vacuum reservoir. can anyobody advise if it's a faulty vacuum pump or solenoid or wastegate? looked it up online and I can't get a def answer. thank you

Are you talking about the port on the valve cover???... I had a pretty good amount of oil in mine, found on youtube it could be an internal crack??... I'll see if I can find that link

musclesmarinara75 · 10-15-2021, 10:01 AM

Is this where you found your oil??

Abdullah abuhajjeh · 12-28-2022, 08:48 AM

Regarding the oil in the vacuum reservoir
I found the issue with my car after spending months in garages and more than 2 grand in replacing multiple components like vc, boost selenoid, all vacuume lines, to be a small plastic nozzel in the vaccum pump that is the issue,
This small plastic nozzel connects to the main vacuum hose that attaches from vacuum pump to valve cover vacuum reservoir, the nozzel has an orange rubber inside of it that allows the air to be sucked into the vacuum pump to creat negative pressure and prevent oil from escaping into the vacuum reservoir in the valve cover,
The small plastic nozzel in my car didnt have the orange rubber that prevents the oil from entering the vaccum reservoir in the valve cover which lead to oil getting to the boost selenoid and loss of power with the drive train malfunction message and all that hedach, i will attach photos that show the place of it with old nozzel and new one that I bought from scarp yard,(( the piece is not sold separately from bmw but a repair kit can be bought online))

aleschenfelder · 04-15-2024, 08:41 AM

Apologies in advance for reviving this thread

A little background.

Long story short I thought I had a leak of the VC where oil was traveling down onto the downpipe. After receiving the parts and tearing them into the car, it was found that the oil leak was actually coming from the supply line to the boost solenoid. I found this thread and a few more and thought I found the Hail Mary with the nipple/diaphragm replacement mentioned above. Although the car ran flawlessly after cleaning out the chamber and all lines the issue quickly returned after driving for about 30 minutes. A new valve cover is on order, and I am hoping that remedies the issue (being an internal crack and oil being sucked into the vacuum chamber). I have DIY'd just about everything on my car and do my best to follow all service bulletins and procedures as they are available online, needless to say, I am not ready to replace the vacuum pump yet as I am preparing to do the rod bearings, timing chain/guides and eccentric shaft/bearings. I came across this video today and thought it would be a good addition and help with future issues others might come across. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHYP6oK-gTM&t=918s

I replaced the VC about 20k miles ago with a Bavarian Motorsports cover from ECS Tuning and have been chasing a boost leak for a while, got tired of it after buying a smoke tester, upgraded Turbo inlet, and a few other things, and ended up wrapping all charge connections with Aircraft Pressure tape and thought that would surely remedy the issue. (it did for a while) I think now it is either the valve cover or the vacuum pump. I also have slight surging at low speeds (no pedal input). This went away after changing the nipple connection, though. I wish there was a way to test the vacuum pump itself. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

10-04-2021, 05:41 PM	#1
vtataru Private 3 Rep 60 Posts Drives: 2012 528i Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: south carolina iTrader: (0)	oil in vacuum reservoir I keep getting drivetrain malfunction daily. i get 120308 intermittent fault code, charge-airpressure control, plausability pressure too low. i remove the engine cover and there was oil in the vacuum reservoir. can anyobody advise if it's a faulty vacuum pump or solenoid or wastegate? looked it up online and I can't get a def answer. thank you
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10-05-2021, 09:33 AM	#2
95blkmax Captain 213 Rep 659 Posts Drives: '11 535 M-Sport Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Oklahoma City iTrader: (0)	on PWG N20s it's not an easy diag. A few things can cause that code. I will focus solely on this vacuum oil situation as it is a known issue being presented... How are the vac lines from the pump to the engine cover/ reservoir, and from there to the solenoid? Oil could be present at normal amounts, but if the lines are dri-rotted they could collapse under vacuum and cause this code. Oil in the reservoir isn't uncommon at all. Just how much oil are we talking about though? a drip of oil is normal. A pouring stream is likely a failed/ failing vac pump. Note that if it is in fact a pouring amount of oil, if that oil made its way to the solenoid, it is POSSIBLE to clean it out and it work just fine after. Certainly worth a shot at that point (spray brake parts cleaner into it and let it drip out til clean, then a light quick spray of WD40 to prevent rusting inside). If upon replacing pump, cleaning out lines and solenoid, the code is still present, you'd want to replace that solenoid next (or honestly, if it's the original solenoid... just replace it along with the pump and be done with it). __________________ I'm on the YouTubez now!! Check it out -> https://www.youtube.com/@turbospool 11' M-sport- 371WHP - 478WTQ on stock PWG E50 TunedbyShoup // 386WHP - 429WTQ on Shuenk N55+ with ultra-conservative 91 Octane tune // Starting full-range flexfuel tuning in Spring '24
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10-15-2021, 10:01 AM	#5
musclesmarinara75 Lieutenant 206 Rep 504 Posts Drives: 2013 BMW F10 N55 535i XDrive Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Bayonne, NJ iTrader: (0) Garage List 2013 535 XDrive [9.75]	Is this where you found your oil?? __________________ $ PURE STAGE 2 {} JORDAN CUSTOM TUNE {} DORCH HPFP {} SNOW METH {} DINAN EXHAUST {} EVOLV DARK OLIVE WRAP $
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12-28-2022, 08:48 AM	#6
Abdullah abuhajjeh Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: Bmw f10 535i Join Date: Dec 2022 Location: UAE iTrader: (0)	Regarding the oil in the vacuum reservoir I found the issue with my car after spending months in garages and more than 2 grand in replacing multiple components like vc, boost selenoid, all vacuume lines, to be a small plastic nozzel in the vaccum pump that is the issue, This small plastic nozzel connects to the main vacuum hose that attaches from vacuum pump to valve cover vacuum reservoir, the nozzel has an orange rubber inside of it that allows the air to be sucked into the vacuum pump to creat negative pressure and prevent oil from escaping into the vacuum reservoir in the valve cover, The small plastic nozzel in my car didnt have the orange rubber that prevents the oil from entering the vaccum reservoir in the valve cover which lead to oil getting to the boost selenoid and loss of power with the drive train malfunction message and all that hedach, i will attach photos that show the place of it with old nozzel and new one that I bought from scarp yard,(( the piece is not sold separately from bmw but a repair kit can be bought online)) Attached Images
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04-15-2024, 08:41 AM	#7
aleschenfelder Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW E92 Coupe Join Date: Apr 2024 Location: San Diego iTrader: (0)	Further Troubleshooting of the vacuum system Apologies in advance for reviving this thread A little background. Long story short I thought I had a leak of the VC where oil was traveling down onto the downpipe. After receiving the parts and tearing them into the car, it was found that the oil leak was actually coming from the supply line to the boost solenoid. I found this thread and a few more and thought I found the Hail Mary with the nipple/diaphragm replacement mentioned above. Although the car ran flawlessly after cleaning out the chamber and all lines the issue quickly returned after driving for about 30 minutes. A new valve cover is on order, and I am hoping that remedies the issue (being an internal crack and oil being sucked into the vacuum chamber). I have DIY'd just about everything on my car and do my best to follow all service bulletins and procedures as they are available online, needless to say, I am not ready to replace the vacuum pump yet as I am preparing to do the rod bearings, timing chain/guides and eccentric shaft/bearings. I came across this video today and thought it would be a good addition and help with future issues others might come across. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHYP6oK-gTM&t=918s I replaced the VC about 20k miles ago with a Bavarian Motorsports cover from ECS Tuning and have been chasing a boost leak for a while, got tired of it after buying a smoke tester, upgraded Turbo inlet, and a few other things, and ended up wrapping all charge connections with Aircraft Pressure tape and thought that would surely remedy the issue. (it did for a while) I think now it is either the valve cover or the vacuum pump. I also have slight surging at low speeds (no pedal input). This went away after changing the nipple connection, though. I wish there was a way to test the vacuum pump itself. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
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