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      09-24-2015, 10:01 AM   #1
dadysev
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Rotor question

I noticed that the Original brake rotors have some rivet things around the hub. Do OEM brands like Zimmerman have the same? or does anyone have any experience yet with other rotors on their F10 550?
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      09-24-2015, 11:39 PM   #2
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http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1170250

Check it out. I have swapped my rotors on my 550i already.
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      09-25-2015, 12:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple3
http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1170250

Check it out. I have swapped my rotors on my 550i already.
Thanks but not a fan of slotted and/or drilled, unless they are the real BBK or OEM like the M5/6
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      09-25-2015, 01:57 AM   #4
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If not a fan check out rockauto. They have blank rotors for great prices. They aren't rivets more like raised dimples and really serve no purpose from what I have seen swapping out my rotors.

Last edited by Simple5; 09-26-2015 at 08:39 PM..
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      09-25-2015, 10:03 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadysev View Post
I noticed that the Original brake rotors have some rivet things around the hub. Do OEM brands like Zimmerman have the same? or does anyone have any experience yet with other rotors on their F10 550?
Those aren't really rivets, but attaching pins. The rotors on your car are of a design called 'floating rotors'. They have an aluminum center 'hat' section, with an iron rotor. The pins around the perimeter are used to attach the iron rotor to the aluminum center section, and allow for expansion and contraction of the rotor separate from the hub.

The rotors Simple3 is trying to sell you on are of an inferior design. They are 1-piece rotors with iron center sections. They are heavier than stock, and don't have the thermal expansion characteristic and performance of the stock units.

Basically low-performance aftermarket pieces vs high-performance factory pieces.
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      09-25-2015, 10:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickG_TechniqueTuning View Post
Those aren't really rivets, but attaching pins. The rotors on your car are of a design called 'floating rotors'. They have an aluminum center 'hat' section, with an iron rotor. The pins around the perimeter are used to attach the iron rotor to the aluminum center section, and allow for expansion and contraction of the rotor separate from the hub.

The rotors Simple3 is trying to sell you on are of an inferior design. They are 1-piece rotors with iron center sections. They are heavier than stock, and don't have the thermal expansion characteristic and performance of the stock units.

Basically low-performance aftermarket pieces vs high-performance factory pieces.
Thanks! the exact info i was looking for! so less unsprung weight in the suspension components. The M's have been doing the floating rotor design since the 90s. I new there had to be a reason for the pins.

Thanks again!
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      09-25-2015, 10:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickG_TechniqueTuning View Post
Those aren't really rivets, but attaching pins. The rotors on your car are of a design called 'floating rotors'. They have an aluminum center 'hat' section, with an iron rotor. The pins around the perimeter are used to attach the iron rotor to the aluminum center section, and allow for expansion and contraction of the rotor separate from the hub.

The rotors Simple3 is trying to sell you on are of an inferior design. They are 1-piece rotors with iron center sections. They are heavier than stock, and don't have the thermal expansion characteristic and performance of the stock units.

Basically low-performance aftermarket pieces vs high-performance factory pieces.
Lol, looks like we have another expert on brakes! The stock rotors are great for warping and costing a shit ton of money and on a real race car the aluminum hats will make difference but not on this twin turbo 4 door boat. Get what you want but your only fooling yourself if you think stock is best

By the way all my rotors warped and there are threads about the stock rotors warping, even on the m5. Do a search unless your lazy, but I'm sure you won't be lazy about coming back with a lame response to prove your worth.
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Last edited by Autobuffoonery; 09-25-2015 at 10:42 PM..
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      09-26-2015, 01:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery View Post
Lol, looks like we have another expert on brakes! The stock rotors are great for warping and costing a shit ton of money and on a real race car the aluminum hats will make difference but not on this twin turbo 4 door boat. Get what you want but your only fooling yourself if you think stock is best

By the way all my rotors warped and there are threads about the stock rotors warping, even on the m5. Do a search unless your lazy, but I'm sure you won't be lazy about coming back with a lame response to prove your worth.
Wow Autobuffoonery, that guy was a total dick haha. I'm not "selling" anyone anything it was merely a suggestion. Oh, BTW here is the result of the stock HIGH PERFORMANCE PADS that I swapped out from the STOCK HIGH PERFORMANCE ROTORS. The BMW tech told me that he has seen these on multiple 550i BMWS as the cracks are caused by overheating.

I have been using slotted/drilled rotors on my e36 and e90 335i. I have never seen these kind of cracks on that set-up with ceramic pads.
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      09-26-2015, 01:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple3 View Post
Wow Autobuffoonery, that guy was a total dick haha. I'm not "selling" anyone anything it was merely a suggestion. Oh, BTW here is the result of the stock HIGH PERFORMANCE PADS that I swapped out from the STOCK HIGH PERFORMANCE ROTORS. The BMW tech told me that he has seen these on multiple 550i BMWS as the cracks are caused by overheating.

I have been using slotted/drilled rotors on my e36 and e90 335i. I have never seen these kind of cracks on that set-up with ceramic pads.
Simple3, yep we have another D'bag on the loose! I will refer to him as "captain save a hoe!" You were ONLY making a suggestion based on the OP's question and "captain save a hoe" chimes in like he's an f'n brake expert. My front pads were cracked too. If those high performance stock floating rotors are so great, why do they warp like crazy. Before I purcharsed my 550 I did a search for bmw f10 550 problems the most complaints were, drive train malfunctions and the brakes warping on cars with less than 10k miles on them. If people actually did thier own research rather than ask dumb questions on forums, they could find out for them selfs from people who have actually had problems. Then the "captain save a hoes" wont be called upon to troll a thread.
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Last edited by Autobuffoonery; 09-26-2015 at 01:55 PM..
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      09-27-2015, 05:13 PM   #10
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I don't get why you guys are bashing NickG. He's not wrong..
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      09-27-2015, 07:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter91118 View Post
I don't get why you guys are bashing NickG. He's not wrong..
His attitude was all wrong and the info he posted was his exaggerated opinion based on nothing factual. Please don't jump on the troll band wagon.
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      09-27-2015, 07:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery View Post
His attitude was all wrong and the info he posted was his exaggerated opinion based on nothing factual. Please don't jump on the troll band wagon.
Are you reading the same post as me? The majority of his post was factual; again he's not wrong.

Although the link Simple3 posted was a great deal, there is a difference between that set and OEM. NickG was simply pointing that difference out. I agree with you about our cars not needing floating rotors but you don't need to be a dick about it.
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      09-29-2015, 11:37 AM   #13
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wow didn't mean to start any trouble!

But regarding the post with the pads. on my e46, only used Stock Rotors and pads (textar) for the 300,000 miles i put on it over 13 years. They never warped, pads never had cracks in them.

I was basing my F10 550i on that quality, now this is a much heavier and faster car with different dynamics. So I may need to try out the Zimmerman, etc and see how they work out. Going to do some more searches on the Warping issue with 550's as you say. I don't have that issue now. Mine are just rusty and grooved in. so the next set of pads will need some front rotors.

I have just never seen crossed drilled rotors work on heavy cars, unless they were the real BBK ones that are like 600$ + each. I always hear about warping and cracking. I've seen a bunch my self as i do small work on other cars for friends.
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      09-29-2015, 04:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple3 View Post
... The BMW tech told me that ... the cracks are caused by overheating.
Some aftermarket pads -- e.g. BrakePerformance.com -- have a groove down the middle of the pad to allow for the expansion which caused the cracks shown in your pics. I have ordered a set, will be interested to see if the grooves prevent the pads from cracking.

The cross-drilled holes and grooves on rotors were originally developed to vent gasses which some now-obsolete racing pad formulations produced at very high temperatures. The holes and slots have continued in production solely for looks. In fact, because the holes and grooves reduce the friction surface area under the pad, they reduce stopping power. They also accelerate pad wear and cause more black dust. They are the brake equivalent of 21 inch wheels -- a performance step-back but they do look important.
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      10-01-2015, 12:18 PM   #15
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I changed all my rotors to cross drilled and ceramic pads within the last 6 months, and I have zero brake dust and didn't seem to notice any loss of brake perfomance. I did however only change from stock to cross drilled for aesthetic reasons, but all my stock rotors were warped and the stock pads gave me terrible brake dust. I think I'm going to find out my stock 60-0 braking distance and do my own test to see if I lost any performance in braking by switching to cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads, it will be interesting to see for myself if the rumors about cross drilled rotors are true or bs. I'll post back with an honest account of my findings.
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      10-01-2015, 12:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery View Post
His attitude was all wrong and the info he posted was his exaggerated opinion based on nothing factual. Please don't jump on the troll band wagon.
Everything I posted was factual, unlike your and Simple3's posts. Furthermore, I wasn't the one coming into a thread and calling people a dick or d'bag; you two did. That right there is the definition of a troll.

As far as research goes, maybe you should do some research yourself on what cars BMW uses floating rotors on, and which ones get one-piece rotors. And as far as my qualifications go, I'll let you do a little research on me and figure out my involvement in the BMW aftermarket industry, and what records and knowledge I possess.

Continue your trolling and name calling, and further showing your lack of understanding of our vehicles and their dynamics.

Last edited by NickG_TechniqueTuning; 10-01-2015 at 01:01 PM..
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      10-01-2015, 03:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth View Post
I changed all my rotors to cross drilled and ceramic pads within the last 6 months, and I have zero brake dust and didn't seem to notice any loss of brake perfomance. I did however only change from stock to cross drilled for aesthetic reasons, but all my stock rotors were warped and the stock pads gave me terrible brake dust. I think I'm going to find out my stock 60-0 braking distance and do my own test to see if I lost any performance in braking by switching to cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads, it will be interesting to see for myself if the rumors about cross drilled rotors are true or bs. I'll post back with an honest account of my findings.
what brand(s) did you go with?
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      10-01-2015, 03:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadysev View Post
what brand(s) did you go with?
I installed "centric" brand rotors and akebono ceramic pads. There's one thing people are forgetting to mention, brake rotors are a wearable item on your car and are not ment to last forever so I didn't see the need to buy overpriced expensive stock rotors because they will be replaced again in a few years anyway. The centric brand is not a eBay cheapo China rotor, they are designed and machined in America by Americans but they are cast in China by strict standards imposed by centric. I have them and they are good quality, the stock rotors still warped even with the fancy 2 piece design.
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      10-01-2015, 03:52 PM   #19
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Here's the funny thing I have noticed. I'm my 550i I've gone through 2 sets of rear pads before my fronts. They are still in good condition ? I heard my car brakes more in the rear in stop and go traffic, hence why I get a lot of dust in the rear.
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      10-02-2015, 07:37 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadysev View Post
Here's the funny thing I have noticed. I'm my 550i I've gone through 2 sets of rear pads before my fronts. They are still in good condition ? I heard my car brakes more in the rear in stop and go traffic, hence why I get a lot of dust in the rear.
Is it possible you're using different pad compounds front and back? I can't think of anything else that would explain your reversal of the normal wear pattern.
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      10-02-2015, 08:02 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadysev View Post
Here's the funny thing I have noticed. I'm my 550i I've gone through 2 sets of rear pads before my fronts. They are still in good condition ? I heard my car brakes more in the rear in stop and go traffic, hence why I get a lot of dust in the rear.
My 2011 550i has the exact same behavior with the stock rotors and pads (rear pads worn before front).
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      10-02-2015, 08:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Errowen View Post
Is it possible you're using different pad compounds front and back? I can't think of anything else that would explain your reversal of the normal wear pattern.
going to pop them off this weekend and take a look.
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