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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Rear Brake pads needs replacing!! |
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12-14-2016, 03:35 AM | #1 |
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Rear Brake pads needs replacing!!
Hello All,
So, I have about 3000 miles on my iDrive till the rear brake pads needs replacing. 1.What is everyones experience here?? Shall I go for the original BMW pads and get it fitted at the dealer or would you guys recommend a different make of pads and getting the job done by an indy?? or 2. Get a quote from the dealer and try to get the best deal off them? P.S I get a corporate discount with Sytner. Thanks |
12-14-2016, 07:44 AM | #2 |
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Depends if the car is in warranty, if it is shop around the main dealers and play them off to get a good price
Otherwise its only pads so anyone can do them. I would use genuine parts though if its a newer car as they wont be a fortune |
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12-14-2016, 07:54 AM | #3 | |
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So I was a bit curious about how much people paid for the brake pads on their cars or what sort of a price would be a good price to settle with the dealer? |
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12-14-2016, 11:45 AM | #4 |
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I bet you've got much longer than 3000 miles. It'll stop counting down soon and wait until it triggers the next sensor before resuming the countdown. Mine had about 6-7k left after it first told me I had 3k.
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12-14-2016, 02:58 PM | #5 |
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I've been on 3200 on the front for nearly 16months now. In fact my rear have caught up, they were 19000 this time last year and now showing 3000.
I hoping they last until Mar then I'm p/x for a new car. |
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12-15-2016, 12:43 AM | #6 |
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That's interesting. But for some reason mine has been going down steadily. It goes down 100 miles every 2 weeks roughly.
The front ones as you guys said are stuck at 7000 miles since last 7 months. |
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12-15-2016, 02:12 PM | #7 |
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Hi Dhruv
Not exactly sure but I read somewhere that on rear brake pads whoever does them needs to be able to disengage the electronic hand brake so limits the number of people that can do this job. If I'm wrong here please accept my apologies. I had mine done at sytner this time last year and I am happy with the work and quality of the pads.
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12-15-2016, 03:55 PM | #9 |
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^^^ what they said
My iDrive was moaning that I had only 3000miles left, there was at least 4mm left on both pads, i reset the service indicator and it gave a more realistic figure. when i did end up replacing them I used Textar pads from Eurocarparts - they had all the exact same markings and looked identical to the 'OEM' ones I took off the car |
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12-15-2016, 07:38 PM | #10 |
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How do the Textar pads work? Do they feel the same? How about dust? I've been amazed how clean my wheels stay with stock pads as opposed to earlier BMWs.
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12-16-2016, 05:18 AM | #11 | |
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Yeah you are right I read it somewhere too. Thats one reason why I am a little hesitant, but then again from the dealer its £230 which is a bit dearer. If you dont mind, how much did you pay for your pads? Thanks |
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12-16-2016, 05:23 AM | #12 | |
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Also, the Textar pads and Brake pads sensor from Eurocarparts work out £65 (xmas code) which is to be honest brilliant. I am inbetween here not able to decide whether to go to the dealer or just buy the above parts and get it done from a trusted indy. Thanks |
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12-16-2016, 11:06 AM | #13 |
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I've been on 3100 miles on the iDrive indicator since March - 10000 miles ago nearly. You have probably got thousands more miles left on them.
Also, my BMW 535 (Dec 2014) has the service history in the car inside the iDrive. I bet an Indy can't update that when they've changed the pads.
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12-16-2016, 01:31 PM | #14 | ||
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I paid £251 inc vat Last December. Sp
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12-18-2016, 03:08 AM | #16 |
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Resetting the handbrake is simple, any Indy thats worked on any bmw which is reasonably new will know how to do it without any computer fudgery
I did mine on the driveway- 1. Remove wheel 2. Remove handbrake actuator 3. Remove calliper 4. Wind back the torx actuator in the handbrake actuator module by hand 5. Remove pads and sensor 6. Wind back piston on caliper (see YouTube for this) 7. Grease everything up 8. Replace pads + sensor 9. Remount caliper 10. Remount handbrake module 11. Check tightness of bolts etc 12. Mount wheel 13. Pump brake pedal 14. Lower car 15. Reset service light using buttons on dash cluster (see YouTube for this) I caught mine before the sensor started to wear down so I didn't need to replace the wear sensor just careful when removing it. It really is a bog standard easy brake job, no different really to when I used to do it on my golf apart from the added step of the handbrake actuator. Key is to clean the car well beforehand, have good jack stands and trolley jack and chocks |
12-20-2016, 10:28 AM | #17 |
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I used the EPC ultimax OEM standard ones, very pleased with them. less dust. very easy to do. Cost £23incl vat.. If you change before the wear light comes on you can use the original wear sensor. About an hour to fit.
EBC are a high quality pad I have been using them on my BMW motorcycles for years. https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automoti...10)-2010-/1625 |
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01-02-2017, 02:03 PM | #18 | |
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FYI my idrive states I have 2.2k miles left on my rears, it's been showing this for 6 months, I’ve checked and my pads are fine, just keep checking them. |
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01-03-2017, 03:12 AM | #19 | |
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Seems like theres still a bit of juice left on the pads. As you said, I did check the pads and they did seem to be ok. Will keep checking. |
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01-03-2017, 08:46 AM | #20 |
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The idrive will still inform you when the pads get low if you reset the system by providing you with the red warning.
The Idrive unit works on a countdown based upon factory determined usage rates and will count down and enter yellow warning as per this algorithm. Once the pads are sufficiently low that the sensor wears against the disk (physically wears away/touches) then the warning sensor is triggered and the warning turns red. Should you reset your system to increase the mileage avaliable (within the idrive whilst the yellow warning is showing) this has no effect on when the wear sensor will be triggered. When the sensor actually strikes against the disk it will change the warning to red at which point the idrive displays that you have approx 1,000 miles to change the pads. I've actually had this procedure undertaken for me by BMW Farnborough. Beware thou once the sensor has touched (worn) against the disk and the idrive displays the red warning then during pad replacement you will need to fit a new sensor. Although personally I'd fit a new genuine sensor anyway. The idrive is well known for not measuring the pad thickness, only expected usage based upon mileage/driving style/time since last replacement. The best approach is to check your pad thickness, with the fail safe that once the sensor is clipped and the warning turns to red that you must change your pads. |
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