[lsturbointeg]

So I come home and this is waiting for me it's like Christmas in July!





So here's the Vseries polishing kit. V32 is your most aggressive compound for deep swirls and scratches. V34 for medium compound for swirls/scratches. V36 is your cutting polish and the V38 for your final polishing:


Here's the Hexlogic pads. Orange for compound V32/V34, the White for cutting using V36, and Black for finishing using V38 but can also be used for sealants and waxes! You could also use Lake Country pads which pretty much is the same thing but has a different design instead if the hex design.


Next are the products used to either clean the pads or condition the pad before and after use. The cleaning solvent was actually included with the Hexlogic kit.


So after the paint correction I will use Jet Seal sealant to protect the paint from the harsh elements & UV rays which last up to 1 year. And for additional protection I'll use ButterWet Wax for that high gloss shiney finish with carnuba. The V07 is pretty much a Detailer but it also contains a sealant. The Clean Slate is a pre-wax cleaner and is used to remove old wax and polishes before you do your paint correction.


To protect my beloved wheels:


I will be using Dr Beasley's Matte Wheel Sealant. I read some pretty good reviews. I really looked into a lot of wheel waxes and sealnts and a lot of them would give a gloss to the wheels and I didn't want that.


Even tho I clayed my car not too long ago I'll have to reclay it again. It's probably gonna take me a few days to complete the process but I love working on my car just like many of you guys! I will add pictures here during the process just to keep you guys updated. I'm no expert detailer but I catch on fast. I've watched plenty of YouTube videos from Junkman as well as Chemical Guys!

[Zer0Cool92]

Let me know how that wheel wax works and how long it lasts. I hate having to clean the brake dust off mine every week .

[Takumi587]

Congrats on the new products! Will you be using a porter cable, flex or rotary with the pads? When i first started i used the PC then to the Flex then rotary. I highly recommend before you start to get a black pad as well to finish with a paint cleanser or very mild polish afte polishing. If you see marring then the paint cleanser or mild polish with a quick pass of the black pad almost always cures it. Unless you got some really bad marring. Just practice one panel at a time like the side skirts .

Good luck and have fun. The ending is always the best part when you see all the hard work paying off.

Don't forget to take some before and after shots!

[DDD31]

Congrats!!

Looks like somebody is going to be very busy

Now you need a whole slew of interior detailing products

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by DDD31

Congrats!!

Looks like somebody is going to be very busy

Now you need a whole slew of interior detailing products

RIGHT! i'm afraid to start looking into that as i'll get all kinds of ideas and and happy with just detailers spray and leather cleaner for now!

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Takumi587

Congrats on the new products! Will you be using a porter cable, flex or rotary with the pads? When i first started i used the PC then to the Flex then rotary. I highly recommend before you start to get a black pad as well to finish with a paint cleanser or very mild polish afte polishing. If you see marring then the paint cleanser or mild polish with a quick pass of the black pad almost always cures it. Unless you got some really bad marring. Just practice one panel at a time like the side skirts .

Good luck and have fun. The ending is always the best part when you see all the hard work paying off.

Don't forget to take some before and after shots!

i'll be using a DA polisher. i did get a black pad as you can see in the picture but yup, i'll start with one panel at time. believe me, i've been doiong my homework and this is not gonna be done in 1 day lol

[Takumi587]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

i'll be using a DA polisher. i did get a black pad as you can see in the picture but yup, i'll start with one panel at time. believe me, i've been doiong my homework and this is not gonna be done in 1 day lol

haha forgive me for not noticing the black pad in the pictures. Good luck and have fun boss!

[gabypr]

Congrats on your purchase. I also have many chemical guys products and so far im pleased with the results. Let us know your experience.

[Jet in Oz]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

i'll be using a DA polisher. i did get a black pad as you can see in the picture but yup, i'll start with one panel at time. believe me, i've been doiong my homework and this is not gonna be done in 1 day lol

Really, you'd be using an electric polisher on your F10? I'm too scared to go anywhere near my paint with a machine as the buffing head can bite into your paint if you accidentally touch a corner (i.e. your door handle). If I'm wrong then tell me what machine to buy (Rupes? Flex? Torq?) and I'll invest cos it's a workout doing it by hand.

Gene, did you buy your Chemical Brothers products individually or do they do kits/packs?

[DDD31]

Originally Posted by Jet in Oz

Really, you'd be using an electric polisher on your F10? I'm too scared to go anywhere near my paint with a machine as the buffing head can bite into your paint if you accidentally touch a corner (i.e. your door handle). If I'm wrong then tell me what machine to buy (Rupes? Flex? Torq?) and I'll invest cos it's a workout doing it by hand.

DA polishers are designed so that its very difficult to burn through the paint compared to rotary polishers. The way the buffing pad attaches to the backing plate keeps the buffing head far away from the paint (as you can see from the picture) making it virtually impossible to touch the paint with the buffing head.

There are many excellent DA polishers on the market at all different price points. I would highly recommend getting a DA polisher because it makes polishing much easier and gives much better results than hand polishing.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Jet in Oz

Really, you'd be using an electric polisher on your F10? I'm too scared to go anywhere near my paint with a machine as the buffing head can bite into your paint if you accidentally touch a corner (i.e. your door handle). If I'm wrong then tell me what machine to buy (Rupes? Flex? Torq?) and I'll invest cos it's a workout doing it by hand.

Gene, did you buy your Chemical Brothers products individually or do they do kits/packs?

LOL Jet! how else am i going to do it! i love massaging my car like i do my wife but for 3-4 days straight? my arms would fall off haha

everything is from Chemical Guys except Dr Beasley's Matte wheel sealant as i ordered that from Detailers Domain.

i have the cheap Harbor Freight DA one for now but i'll eventually upgrade to a better one but because 50% of my yearly income goes to the BMW... i gotta feed the wife and kids too you know

[Jet in Oz]

Originally Posted by DDD31

DA polishers are designed so that its very difficult to burn through the paint compared to rotary polishers. The way the buffing pad attaches to the backing plate keeps the buffing head far away from the paint (as you can see from the picture) making it virtually impossible to touch the paint with the buffing head.

There are many excellent DA polishers on the market at all different price points. I would highly recommend getting a DA polisher because it makes polishing much easier and gives much better results than hand polishing.

DA = Dual Action, right? I've since watched a YouTube vid (Best Car Polishers) and I need to buy one that has a free-floating 'spindle assembly' (apparently the head stops spinning when it hit's a vertical surface). There's also the Cyclo Polisher that has a twin counter-rotating and oscillating head. Man-oh-man have I been missing out. No wonder my arms are like Arnie's

[DDD31]

Originally Posted by Jet in Oz

DA = Dual Action, right? I've since watched a YouTube vid (Best Car Polishers) and I need to buy one that has a free-floating 'spindle assembly' (apparently the head stops spinning when it hit's a vertical surface). There's also the Cyclo Polisher that has a twin counter-rotating and oscillating head. Man-oh-man have I been missing out. No wonder my arms are like Arnie's

DA= Dual Action

Most of the DA polishers have the free floating spindle as you mentioned except the Flex 3401 polisher which is a direct drive unit. One of the disadvantages of the free floating spindle is that if you press down a little too hard, you can bog down the motor. This causes the polishing head to just spin rather than spin and oscillate which reduces the polishers ability. The Flex 3401 prevents this with its direct drive and is an outstanding polisher that provides excellent polishing ability yet still makes it extremely difficult to burn through the paint. I used to use a Porter Cable 7424 polisher which is an economical choice that gives great results but I would occasionally have the problems mentioned above. I have switched to the Flex 3401 and I'm extremely impressed with its impressive polishing ability and smooth operation and I especially appreciate its outstanding German build quality.

Some other excellent DA polishers are offered by: Flex, Rupes, Griots, and Porter Cable, it all depends on what you want to spend and what features you want.

As I said in my earlier post, you can't go wrong with ANY DA polisher. I used to hand polish and wax my cars and once I got my DA polisher I was hooked and will never go back to hand polishing.

[dadysev]

Enjoy!!! it will take you a few days trust me! if you do it all in a day you are moving wayyy to fast..

Don't forget your grit guard and dual bucket wash.

The less you touch the paint, the less correction you need in future!
good luck!

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by dadysev

Enjoy!!! it will take you a few days trust me! if you do it all in a day you are moving wayyy to fast..

Don't forget your grit guard and dual bucket wash.

The less you touch the paint, the less correction you need in future!
good luck!

YUP! i'll be using the 2 bucket wash technique. i figure a pretty good full day just with V34 and V36. i'll spend another day with V38. and the 3rd day will be JetSeal and ButterWet Wax for the final step. probably on the 2nd day is when i'll work on washing and cleaning the wheels to apply Dr Beasley's Matte wheel sealant? i'll see i'm really contemplating on getting BlackLight before applying JetSeal? don't know if it's just marketing trying to get me to spend more money but it's suppose to give me a deeper wet look and than fill in any minor scratches and swirls and than seal it with the JetSeal? if i'm already doing the paint correction to remove scratches and swirls than what's the point? i've been on the Chemical Guy forums and a lot of the guys there will tell me to add BlackLight into the mix?

[DDD31]

From what I've read, Blacklight enhances gloss and does fill in some light scratches. The DA polisher should remove most of the swirls and light scratches during the polishing stage. I doubt that Blacklight is going to be able to fill in deeper scratches that the polishing stage wasn't able to remove.

It looks like you have Chemical Guys V07 in your package which I've read rave reviews about when used with Blacklight so you might want to give Blacklight a try which is supposed to work great with dark cars.

I have Alpine White so I don't bother using a gloss enhancer so I just polish then apply a sealant. My current products I use are Menzerna MC2500 for polishing followed by Sonax Polymer Net Shield for sealing.

I told you detailing turns into a sickness

[dadysev]

so i did the blacklight then the V7. But because i got rid of 95% of my swirls the polishing job already had the car shining!
I more used the Blacklight/V7 more like a wax/sealant combo. Will probably try a wax and Jet seal also. Others said they noticed the difference after the Blacklight, but it did not make a huge difference for me, but the water beading is awesome.
I'm still feeling out products

[lsturbointeg]

damn you guys! i was trying to convince myself i don't need BlackLight but the gloss enhancing effects it does will be nice to seal in with JetSeal on top! errr...i think i might order it

[lsturbointeg]

Soooooooo I ended up ordering the BlackLight lol just because I'm sure I'm not gonna get every single scratch out but this should at least help. Since this process is going to take a few days I have to wait for my long weekend which is Fri-Mon which won't be until 3 weeks from now.

[DDD31]

Haha nice!

Interested to hear your experience with Blacklight once you've finished.

And this is just the beginning, pretty soon you'll be purchasing special brushes, wash shampoo, a foam cannon, etc., once you get the detailing bug, you can't stop.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by DDD31

Haha nice!

Interested to hear your experience with Blacklight once you've finished.

And this is just the beginning, pretty soon you'll be purchasing special brushes, wash shampoo, a foam cannon, etc., once you get the detailing bug, you can't stop.

Lol! The detailing bug got me! First the mod bug now this lol! I'm actually looking into their foam canons! Originally i was gonna try BlackLight without the whole paint correction and call it a day but after watching all those videos i was better off doing it right the first time. Interesting topic that came up was diluting products? I'm not sure which one's you can do but imma check which one's.

I still need to figure out how to clean the pads by hand? I know I need a brush but I think it's silly to pay $10 for a brush when I can get one at Walmart for a few bucks?

[PJinCA]

Using a DA polisher is perfectly safe, you have to be extremely talented to burn through paint with one. Keep a spray bottle of water handy, a couple of spritzes before the pad touches the paint, and you're good. I have used high speed polishers on my E60s and never had a problem, they are safe too once you know how to use them.
For those very serious about paint care I would recommend a Rupes Bigfoot, it is slower speed than a DA and covers a larger area with each pass. It really cuts the polishing/waxing time by qutie a bit. Instead of doing a 2ft x 2ft square, you can safely do a 4ft x 4ft section with the same results. The same rules apply, keep the pad moist with spritzes of water
http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-polishers.html