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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs Remove small scratches from Black Paintwork
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      07-15-2014, 07:21 AM   #1
F11pilot
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Remove small scratches from Black Paintwork

First of all greetings, I'm new to owning a Beemer and new on here. I've just purchased a 2011 F11 520d M Sport in black (sales photos & 1 of my own included). However, it has a kerbed wheel in 2 places that I'm having professionally refurbished and a few scratches here and there which I'm contemplating having a go myself at removing.

You can see in the last 2 photos the worst of these on the tailgate, the top one you can feel bubbling under the paint, but the others are scratches in the clear top coat. Hence the white appearance. Any advice on how to tackle these would be helpful, as I don't want to wreck the paintwork any further and would like to purchase the correct tools and supplies for the job in hand!

Also suggestions in keeping in tip top shape will also be generously received.

Any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.......
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Last edited by F11pilot; 07-15-2014 at 08:51 AM.. Reason: After thought
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      07-15-2014, 05:33 PM   #2
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Go to this website....lots of videos and PDF downloads on techniques and equipment needed!
http://www.ammonyc.com

under videos, you will find this one about correcting small dings and chips in black paint:http://www.ammonyc.com/detailing/paint-chip-touch-up/

Last edited by Monkey Punk; 07-15-2014 at 10:09 PM.. Reason: Found a specific link in there
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      07-16-2014, 02:43 AM   #3
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Monkey says......this monkey does!

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Originally Posted by Monkey says... View Post
Go to this website....lots of videos and PDF downloads on techniques and equipment needed!
http://www.ammonyc.com

under videos, you will find this one about correcting small dings and chips in black paint:http://www.ammonyc.com/detailing/paint-chip-touch-up/
Thanks for the point in the right direction, I'll use this as a starter for 10 when buying in UK! I'll steer clear from all the polishes/rubbing compounds with black colour enhancers in and invest in some proper tools for the job in hand!!
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      07-16-2014, 04:41 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by F11pilot View Post
Thanks for the point in the right direction, I'll use this as a starter for 10 when buying in UK! I'll steer clear from all the polishes/rubbing compounds with black colour enhancers in and invest in some proper tools for the job in hand!!
It takes some practice and patience, but once you get the hang of it, it can be easier than thought. Cheers!

Edit: Goes without saying, do it out of direct sunlight to keep paint and clear coat from gumming/clotting up on the job.

Last edited by Monkey Punk; 07-16-2014 at 04:43 AM.. Reason: Forgot something
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      07-17-2014, 08:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F11pilot View Post
First of all greetings, I'm new to owning a Beemer and new on here. I've just purchased a 2011 F11 520d M Sport in black (sales photos & 1 of my own included). However, it has a kerbed wheel in 2 places that I'm having professionally refurbished and a few scratches here and there which I'm contemplating having a go myself at removing.

You can see in the last 2 photos the worst of these on the tailgate, the top one you can feel bubbling under the paint, but the others are scratches in the clear top coat. Hence the white appearance. Any advice on how to tackle these would be helpful, as I don't want to wreck the paintwork any further and would like to purchase the correct tools and supplies for the job in hand!

Also suggestions in keeping in tip top shape will also be generously received.

Any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.......
I am curious....did you have a chance to look at the video of this guy from Ammo NYC? He is definitely OCD, but I think his techniques and advice are great....anyhoo....

Last edited by Monkey Punk; 07-17-2014 at 08:17 PM.. Reason: grammar corrections
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      07-18-2014, 02:51 AM   #6
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Ammo NYC

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Originally Posted by Monkey says... View Post
I am curious....did you have a chance to look at the video of this guy from Ammo NYC? He is definitely OCD, but I think his techniques and advice are great....anyhoo....
I did, not sure about attacking the car with a piece of sandpaper stuck to a pencil, as not sure I have enough confidence in my skills without practice! I'm definitely going to have a go at swirl/scratch removal, but going to have to wait until I can afford the proper kit! However, I may take the easier option as I'm having one of the alloys kerb scuff damaged repaired professionally next month so I might just ask for quote to take care of the area in the 2 photos on the tailgate. But I'm purchasing the polishing and washing gear next month after I've been paid and see what results I get done by hand on the polishing.
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      07-18-2014, 03:02 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by F11pilot View Post
I did, not sure about attacking the car with a piece of sandpaper stuck to a pencil, as not sure I have enough confidence in my skills without practice! I'm definitely going to have a go at swirl/scratch removal, but going to have to wait until I can afford the proper kit! However, I may take the easier option as I'm having one of the alloys kerb scuff damaged repaired professionally next month so I might just ask for quote to take care of the area in the 2 photos on the tailgate. But I'm purchasing the polishing and washing gear next month after I've been paid and see what results I get done by hand on the polishing.
I know your reluctance...I got a piece of a junked car hood from a scrap yard once just to practice on. Besides, yours are vertical, so it is a bit harder to work on versus a horizontal plane. It has been quite a while, so I will have to up my skills. Best of luck....and post some pics if you do get it worked out...let me know the price as well (if you pay to fix it).

Last edited by Monkey Punk; 07-18-2014 at 03:03 AM.. Reason: Grammar correction
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      07-18-2014, 06:04 AM   #8
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Good call on the panel to practice......

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Originally Posted by Monkey says... View Post
I know your reluctance...I got a piece of a junked car hood from a scrap yard once just to practice on. Besides, yours are vertical, so it is a bit harder to work on versus a horizontal plane. It has been quite a while, so I will have to up my skills. Best of luck....and post some pics if you do get it worked out...let me know the price as well (if you pay to fix it).
I've attacked cars with angle grinders in the past but I'm a little hesitant when your car's worth 20k!

Will do mate, all the best!
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      07-18-2014, 06:47 AM   #9
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Be careful as bmws factory paint is not very thick, using the right tool for too long and you will go through the paint.

As for the scratches, you will probably not be able to get rid of them completely, a good indication is what the area looks like when wet, that is usually the best you can get it with a proper polish.

The bubbleing usually indicates rust, I would have had that repaired professionally, might get that on the factory warranty actually, dont they have a 5 year rust warranty?
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      07-18-2014, 08:01 AM   #10
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BMW factory paintwork

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Originally Posted by Noggie View Post
Be careful as bmws factory paint is not very thick, using the right tool for too long and you will go through the paint.

As for the scratches, you will probably not be able to get rid of them completely, a good indication is what the area looks like when wet, that is usually the best you can get it with a proper polish.

The bubbleing usually indicates rust, I would have had that repaired professionally, might get that on the factory warranty actually, dont they have a 5 year rust warranty?
I had the same thoughts regarding the bubbling, however it looks like it's been caught with something so wouldn't have thought that would be covered under the 5 year warranty!!

Rather disappointing news about the thickness of paint, as I was under the impression that Germans do it better! But I'll make sure I go easy, thanks for the heads up.
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      07-18-2014, 01:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F11pilot View Post
I had the same thoughts regarding the bubbling, however it looks like it's been caught with something so wouldn't have thought that would be covered under the 5 year warranty!!

Rather disappointing news about the thickness of paint, as I was under the impression that Germans do it better! But I'll make sure I go easy, thanks for the heads up.
I would go with a medium pad and medium compound.

Check my writeup here http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005257

All modern cars have just a few microns of paint, saves weight and cost.

Used to work in the airline industry, to paint a boeing 737 added 300kg of weight
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      07-18-2014, 07:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noggie View Post
I would go with a medium pad and medium compound.

Check my writeup here http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005257

All modern cars have just a few microns of paint, saves weight and cost.

Used to work in the airline industry, to paint a boeing 737 added 300kg of weight
Noggie: I read your attached post. Great stuff! Have you every used a microfiber cutting pad? I have found even with a mild compound, one can get faster results....as long as you know your speeds for the machine well...just curious.
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      07-19-2014, 06:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey says... View Post
Noggie: I read your attached post. Great stuff! Have you every used a microfiber cutting pad? I have found even with a mild compound, one can get faster results....as long as you know your speeds for the machine well...just curious.
I have never used that, no.
I am not a pro, just an amateur when it comes to detailing, I do my own and friends cars.
My pads are medium and fine scholl pads, but I was thinking about trying swissvax medium and fine pads next time.
I have a friend who is, well, up there with the best, Paul Dalton level almost.
He does all the exotic cars in my area.

If you want to see. Here is his facebook page. You will find Porsches, Ferraries, Aston Martins, Morgans, Buggatis ect ect on that page.
https://www.facebook.com/TommysCARSPA

I use his advise when getting products, but since I am a novice I dont want to end up having to repaint a body panel because I went through the paint.
Therefore I stick to medium treatment, which is enough to get rid of swirls, scuffmarks and holograms. And it will take care of most scratches as well.

As I said, the paint is so thin on newer cars that I would not want to use something highly abbrasive without proper guidance.
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      07-19-2014, 07:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noggie View Post
I have never used that, no.
I am not a pro, just an amateur when it comes to detailing, I do my own and friends cars.
My pads are medium and fine scholl pads, but I was thinking about trying swissvax medium and fine pads next time.
I have a friend who is, well, up there with the best, Paul Dalton level almost.
He does all the exotic cars in my area.

If you want to see. Here is his facebook page. You will find Porsches, Ferraries, Aston Martins, Morgans, Buggatis ect ect on that page.
https://www.facebook.com/TommysCARSPA

I use his advise when getting products, but since I am a novice I dont want to end up having to repaint a body panel because I went through the paint.
Therefore I stick to medium treatment, which is enough to get rid of swirls, scuffmarks and holograms. And it will take care of most scratches as well.

As I said, the paint is so thin on newer cars that I would not want to use something highly abbrasive without proper guidance.
I am as amateur as they come....by no means an expert. As a matter of fact, I bet you'd run circles (no-holo's) around me. Just trying to learn.
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      07-20-2014, 06:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey says... View Post
I am as amateur as they come....by no means an expert. As a matter of fact, I bet you'd run circles (no-holo's) around me. Just trying to learn.
Its not that hard actually, just takes time.
For us beginners, get a oscillating machine, a rotating machine is much more difficult to use.
You will make holos with it, you can see the tracks from the machine in the sun if not done right.
You can easily overheat the paint damaging it, and it is much easier to go through the paint on edges.

With an oscillating machine you are much safer, its harder to damage the paint, or get holograms or tracks.
I dont use a rotating machine, and I will probably not start using one soon either.
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