[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

OK cool! I'm going to play dumb right now cause I've been out of the Audio for awhile...do u have a diagram for the parallel setup lol!

Also, just to confirm the 1 lb polyfill on each side the sub sits in it like a bird nest...should I have some air space between the sub and polyfill? I know when I ram my Jl's my box was deeper so 1 lb just filled it half way. In my Nissan box it's pretty shallow. Like I posted there's about 1.25" of space between the sub and the bottom of the box so I'm wondering if I have too much polyfill?

This is how you have to wire it once you flip both subs to 8 ohm

[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

OK cool! I'm going to play dumb right now cause I've been out of the Audio for awhile...do u have a diagram for the parallel setup lol!

Also, just to confirm the 1 lb polyfill on each side the sub sits in it like a bird nest...should I have some air space between the sub and polyfill? I know when I ram my Jl's my box was deeper so 1 lb just filled it half way. In my Nissan box it's pretty shallow. Like I posted there's about 1.25" of space between the sub and the bottom of the box so I'm wondering if I have too much polyfill?

Actually, are your subs single voice coil or dual voice coil?

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

Actually, are your subs single voice coil or dual voice coil?

dual voice coil. the amp will be bridged to a 4 ohm load.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

OK cool! I'm going to play dumb right now cause I've been out of the Audio for awhile...do u have a diagram for the parallel setup lol!

Also, just to confirm the 1 lb polyfill on each side the sub sits in it like a bird nest...should I have some air space between the sub and polyfill? I know when I ram my Jl's my box was deeper so 1 lb just filled it half way. In my Nissan box it's pretty shallow. Like I posted there's about 1.25" of space between the sub and the bottom of the box so I'm wondering if I have too much polyfill?

This is exactly how you can configure your subs with the switch in either 8 or 2 ohms,

Also your poly fill is fine, just make sure its evenly distributed in the box.

[lsturbointeg]

okay mine is currently wired up series voice coils/ woofers wired in parallel. Thanks Teddy!

i think i'm getting old because on the way to the gym cause it takes me 45 min to get there LOL i found myself turning the sub level output down after like 30 minutes. it's clean hard hitting bass but after awhile it give me somewhat of a headache just pounding and pounding! i listen to a lot of TRAP music!

[lsturbointeg]

so everything's been running great but now when i'm pushing these subs i'll lose signal in and out...not sure if it's the amp self protecting when getting too hot? i am running a cap to both amps. i think they call this clipping right? or my rca's to the sub amp is taking a $hit and needs to be replaced? i'm trying to think of why it's doing this? shouldn't be the way the subs are wired back to the amp right?

[lsturbointeg]

update: i rescraped both grounds to the the chasis...a lil bit of buildup i noticed. also, i checked the gain controls as it was probably around 85%...kicked it down to 50%. amp crossover i notice was active, turned it off since my headunit itself has all the DSP settings. reconnected everything and so far so good!

[Teddylongtooth]

I haven't been getting anymore battery drain faults and I've been playing the stereo pretty loud every time I drive my car. I'm going to put my jl 1000/1 on my new subs and remove the AQ3500d to compare and test the electrical system to see how well it maintains 1000 watts vs 3500 watts. I'm hoping to update this thread with the last of my build picks soon, but I've been busy working on my girls e60, I did here rear brakes, oil change, removed her headlights and sanded and polished the lenses, replaced the hid bulbs, fog light bulbs, installed led halo bulbs and removed the LED strip from the eyebrows and changed the amber LEDs to super bright white LEDs. That was a chore but her headlights are bright as hell now and they look 100x better.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

I haven't been getting anymore battery drain faults and I've been playing the stereo pretty loud every time I drive my car. I'm going to put my jl 1000/1 on my new subs and remove the AQ3500d to compare and test the electrical system to see how well it maintains 1000 watts vs 3500 watts. I'm hoping to update this thread with the last of my build picks soon, but I've been busy working on my girls e60, I did here rear brakes, oil change, removed her headlights and sanded and polished the lenses, replaced the hid bulbs, fog light bulbs, installed led halo bulbs and removed the LED strip from the eyebrows and changed the amber LEDs to super bright white LEDs. That was a chore but her headlights are bright as hell now and they look 100x better.

good to hear about not getting anymore battery drain faults! not sure if you guys already mentioned this but i was wondering what the stock OEM alternator output in amps is putting out? so i'm getting fluctuation on the subs again. full power and than intermittently it'll go normal than back to full hard hitting bass. from all the research on the web they said try swapping the RCA's as it could be bad/grounded/pinched or what not. i already have the big 3 but i did read that having a higher output alternator would be ideal....$345 for my Nissan Titan. so the cool thing about my setup is i have a digital volts lcd on the capacitor and i also have a digital lcd on the inline fuse holder located next to the battery. i monitored the capacitor as it went from 14.2 volts down to 11.2-10.5 than back up to 13-14v when the subs are hitting. i'll have to pop the hood and see what the battery reads when the bass is hitting. i'm wondering if i should just wire the subs and amp into 2 channels in stead of bridged and just running normal?

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

good to hear about not getting anymore battery drain faults! not sure if you guys already mentioned this but i was wondering what the stock OEM alternator output in amps is putting out? so i'm getting fluctuation on the subs again. full power and than intermittently it'll go normal than back to full hard hitting bass. from all the research on the web they said try swapping the RCA's as it could be bad/grounded/pinched or what not. i already have the big 3 but i did read that having a higher output alternator would be ideal....$345 for my Nissan Titan. so the cool thing about my setup is i have a digital volts lcd on the capacitor and i also have a digital lcd on the inline fuse holder located next to the battery. i monitored the capacitor as it went from 14.2 volts down to 11.2-10.5 than back up to 13-14v when the subs are hitting. i'll have to pop the hood and see what the battery reads when the bass is hitting. i'm wondering if i should just wire the subs and amp into 2 channels in stead of bridged and just running normal?

I'm pretty sure it's not rca's and from what you are describing about your voltage it seems your amp is too big for your system or your battery is weak. Try running your system with the engine off and check the voltage of your battery before you play the stereo and watch the voltage as the subs are hitting, if it starts cutting out and the voltage starts to drop right away it could be your battery is old and not holding a good charge under load, so charge up to 100% and retry. Remember the alt is Supplying your voltage and the battery is supplying the amps to satisfy the load from the amplifier. They both work together to power the electrical system for 'example' the alternator will run the car without a battery but it won't start with out one, the battery is used for starting the vehicle or any other high amp draw the alt can't handle. So check your battery first then have your alternator tested, if they are both fine your amp is too big if not replace the bad component. If it's the alt get the higher amp one you mentioned, if it's the battery get a deep cycle agm from kinetic or xs power or get both. Also look at your amp specs it should have a operating voltage range from 11-14.9 volts if it needs more than 11 volts as the minimum your going to fry it dipping into the 10.5 volt range.

[lsturbointeg]

$hit I'll give it a try. Battery is about 3 years old maybe?

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

.

Teddy, so I tried a couple things on the way to the gym since its a 45 min commute. On low volumes I mean low low the sub still randomly fluctuates. On the way home the bass hit hard and medium volume all the way home for 45 min! Not once did it fluctuate. I'm hoping it's the Stinger RCA's as they are about 15 years old now since I had them in my Integra back in the days. Already ordered some new ones so I'll update of it fixes the problem

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Teddy, so I tried a couple things on the way to the gym since its a 45 min commute. On low volumes I mean low low the sub still randomly fluctuates. On the way home the bass hit hard and medium volume all the way home for 45 min! Not once did it fluctuate. I'm hoping it's the Stinger RCA's as they are about 15 years old now since I had them in my Integra back in the days. Already ordered some new ones so I'll update of it fixes the problem

You didn't mention your rca's were 15 year old hand me downs from stereos past. Change those first to see if your fluttering goes away, but the low voltage drop seems pretty bad also.

[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Teddy, so I tried a couple things on the way to the gym since its a 45 min commute. On low volumes I mean low low the sub still randomly fluctuates. On the way home the bass hit hard and medium volume all the way home for 45 min! Not once did it fluctuate. I'm hoping it's the Stinger RCA's as they are about 15 years old now since I had them in my Integra back in the days. Already ordered some new ones so I'll update of it fixes the problem

Hey how's the system been doing? Did the new rca's fix the fluctuation

[TJBentley]

So I got trunk subs added to the bimmertech amp. Changes the sound completely. Definitely worth it to do it. Only problem I'm having is that there is hard hitting bass until I get up high to about 75-80% volume then the bass starts to fluctuate. Almost like it's giving out and they don't have enough juice. To me it's like a voltage problem but I wouldn't even know where to start to diagnose it. I'll add some pictures in a bit, but any ideas as to what the problem may be?

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

Hey how's the system been doing? Did the new rca's fix the fluctuation

My Rockford Fosgate twisted RCA's came in but I'm waiting for the 45 degree angle RCA connectors to come in. I think I found the problem and it was too hard to take a picture of it. So behind my Pioneer AVH unit where the RCA's plug into the sub RCA's were somewhat bent because there's a support bar behind the dash and the when the shop pushed the unit into place it looks like they bent the RCA's for the sub input. High input looks fine. So imma use the right angle RCA connectors and see if it works.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

So I got trunk subs added to the bimmertech amp. Changes the sound completely. Definitely worth it to do it. Only problem I'm having is that there is hard hitting bass until I get up high to about 75-80% volume then the bass starts to fluctuate. Almost like it's giving out and they don't have enough juice. To me it's like a voltage problem but I wouldn't even know where to start to diagnose it. I'll add some pictures in a bit, but any ideas as to what the problem may be?

So are you using a sub amp connected via RCA's to the bimmertech amp? If not I don't think the bimmertech is powerful enough to push some trunk subs? I've been on the audio forums regarding fluctuating sub levels and it looks like it could be a number of things. Few that popped out from die hard audio guys is to make sure you do the "Big 3 Upgrade" 2nd replace RCA's. 3rd a Higher output alternator. And last make sure all grounding points are making good contact (no paint...bare metal)

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

So I got trunk subs added to the bimmertech amp. Changes the sound completely. Definitely worth it to do it. Only problem I'm having is that there is hard hitting bass until I get up high to about 75-80% volume then the bass starts to fluctuate. Almost like it's giving out and they don't have enough juice. To me it's like a voltage problem but I wouldn't even know where to start to diagnose it. I'll add some pictures in a bit, but any ideas as to what the problem may be?

Can you post some pics?

[Teddylongtooth]

Guys I've thoroughly tested my sub setup and will be posting the final install pics and my results. I can say it's not for everyone but if you like mega bass it will be the best option.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

Guys I've thoroughly tested my sub setup and will be posting the final install pics and my results. I can say it's not for everyone but if you like mega bass it will be the best option.

It's about DAMN TIME!

[DaHeadlightGuy]

Newb here. Does the 535 have active noise canceling? Coming from a Acura RL i had to disable this in order to avoid a humming sub.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by DaHeadlightGuy

Newb here. Does the 535 have active noise canceling? Coming from a Acura RL i had to disable this in order to avoid a humming sub.

My 2011 550 doesn't have anything like that so I would say no.