[BigKutta]

So I called up my indy tech because i have the rear brake pad message (down to 0 miles). he mentioned that they'd have to replace rotors and pads as thats always done. I'm not so sure why both must be replaced.

Would my 2012 528i tell me if my rotors were worn also, or is that something only the tech can visually inspect?

Also, once my service indicator says 0 miles left on rear pads, how much do I really have?

Thanks

[Ickdeep]

The rotors develop a wear pattern with the old pads. Just slapping new pads on means they need to conform to the old wear pattern, which takes longer and forces the pads to wear faster. And the odds of bad brake behavior, like chattering, noise, and warpage increase. The rotors are thin so you technically cant turn them.

[cipher5]

There's no way to really tell how much the pads have left without measuring the pads themselves. It all depends on your driving/braking style. Definitely replace the pads and rotors at the same time. I suggest buying the parts yourself, from a site like fcpeuro.com the prices are competitive and they have a lifetime warranty on everything, yes, including brakes. You can actually ask them to send you new pads and rotors after your next set is worn, sounds crazy but its true.

I just replaced all the rotors and pads and fluid on my car buying from FCP. I saved over 50% on parts and labor going to an indy instead of the dealer. Well worth it.

Also, when you replace the pads/rotors, you should also replace the pad wear sensor as well, about $12-18.

[Bbb34]

This thread might have some answers for you.

http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1310679

While ago someone mentioned BMW dealership machined their rotors and only replaced pads, but in my personal experience no dealership will do this, BMW or other brands. These days most independent mechanics won't do it either.

[TTG]

On German cars, I always do rotors and pads at the same time.

In some Japanese and American cars, you can get away by turning the rotors.

I would do both if I were you.

[lsturbointeg]

Like TTG said i think most shops will just replace rotors nowadays but I remember back in the day turning rotors was a cheaper method.

[trevor56]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

So I called up my indy tech because i have the rear brake pad message (down to 0 miles). he mentioned that they'd have to replace rotors and pads as thats always done. I'm not so sure why both must be replaced.

Would my 2012 528i tell me if my rotors were worn also, or is that something only the tech can visually inspect?

Also, once my service indicator says 0 miles left on rear pads, how much do I really have?

Thanks

I drove well over 1000 miles after I got the rear brake pad message (not suggesting you should). I replaced my pads (DIY) & wear sensor but not my rotors. My brakes are working fine after doing the job. You can buy a micro meter for $15 & measure the rotor thickness & if they still meet the specks you should be fine. I got all the info with good old google search. gl

[STR8-6IX]

first off, look inside your rim and check how much pad surface you actually have left.

what mileage are you at and how aggressively do you use the brakes?

[BigKutta]

Took her in because the actual sensor light came on, and since my son is learning to drive I just got them replaced. Surprisingly, they checked the thickness of the rotor and said I dont need a new set, and the current one could last me another set of pads. Ok, I'll take that

[Breach]

Probably late to the thread, but my 2 cents: It's true that for best friction you should swap rotors and pads, but this is in a very perfect world. Provided rotors still have the minimum thickness, are not warped or grooved it's perfectly OK to swap pads only (that's also what ISTA says). If you do change rotors however you must change pads no matter what the wear. The sensor only pertains to the pads - the rotors are visually inspected and measured with a micrometer - there's no automatic detection of wear there.

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by Breach

Probably late to the thread, but my 2 cents: It's true that for best friction you should swap rotors and pads, but this is in a very perfect world. Provided rotors still have the minimum thickness, are not warped or grooved it's perfectly OK to swap pads only (that's also what ISTA says). If you do change rotors however you must change pads no matter what the wear. The sensor only pertains to the pads - the rotors are visually inspected and measured with a micrometer - there's no automatic detection of wear there.

Tech measured my rotors and said they were in great shape, and close to full thickness, and could go the entire life of the new pads

[Breach]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

Tech measured my rotors and said they were in great shape, and close to full thickness, and could go the entire life of the new pads

Yep, I'm still on the original rotors second pair of pads, still plenty of thickness.

[TZ]

The i-drive calls the rear brake pads in 700 mil. I checked the rear brake pads and rotors. Both side pads are still about 4mm thick. From the service history I believed they were changed at 25k and now is getting 60k. I have owned car two years and about 23k. From the estimation, it should has another 5-10k to go.

Interesting think is the rear rotor thickness is still about 20mm (0.79"). I don't see in service history it has been changed, as lease not while I own it. The information I got for the thickness for 535i rear rotor is 20mm. My front rotors measured at about 30mm and 30.5mm!

Is it possible that they don't wear at all? What is the minimum spec for F10's rotor thickness?

[lsturbointeg]

i've got about 2900 miles to go before my rears brakes need to be changed accorinding to the computer. BMW quoted me around $900 parts and labor...does that sound about right?

[trevor56]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

i've got about 2900 miles to go before my rears brakes need to be changed accorinding to the computer. BMW quoted me around $900 parts and labor...does that sound about right?

I drove my car for about 1000 miles after the sensor warning came on, the dealer quoted me $700 for rear pad replacement but no rotor replacement. I bought my own pads online & googled how to replace them & even after buying over $100 worth of tools to do the job it ended up costing me $300.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by trevor56

I drove my car for about 1000 miles after the sensor warning came on, the dealer quoted me $700 for rear pad replacement but no rotor replacement. I bought my own pads online & googled how to replace them & even after buying over $100 worth of tools to do the job it ended up costing me $300.

was disengaging the rear parking brake pretty simple? did you need any kind of special tools besides your basic tools?

[trevor56]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

was disengaging the rear parking brake pretty simple? did you need any kind of special tools besides your basic tools?

I have never worked on a car before (I'm over 60yr) & found the job straight forward. I used the 2 video links below as my guide. My model is 2011 550ix so it may be different for you? gl

I had to buy a breaker bar to help remove the lug nuts, a torque wrench, some grease, & 2 torx socket drivers.

[Bmw doubles]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

i've got about 2900 miles to go before my rears brakes need to be changed accorinding to the computer. BMW quoted me around $900 parts and labor...does that sound about right?

Sounds like robbery. If you're felling extra ambitious I wrote a front brakes tutorial for a total savings of almost 2 grand. 2 grand you can put into a tune and a fmic.
http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1266532

[lsturbointeg]

I have a month before my warranty expires next month so I'm going to put 2700 miles on it before it expires that way I can get the rear brakes done

[BigKutta]

So lately I've been getting this front end vibration when braking from certain speeds. Called my indy mechanic and he said its usually the front rotors. Before I take it in I'd like to understand my options if its truly the rotors once they inspect.

My service indicator says I have about 15k miles left on my front pads, so it seems that I have to replace the front rotors, I'll also have to replace the pads, right? Is there an alternative to replacing the rotors? Can they be turned, etc.? I'm trying to determine alternatives to throwing away a good set of pads in the process.

Also, I have a service indicator to change brake fluid? How much is a reasonable price to pay to an indy BMW shop for this?

Thanks guys for the input

[Trian]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

Also, I have a service indicator to change brake fluid? How much is a reasonable price to pay to an indy BMW shop for this?

I paid $102.00 labor plus brake fluid at 2 liter for $12.75 per liter (with an Indy)

[Ickdeep]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

So lately I've been getting this front end vibration when braking from certain speeds. Called my indy mechanic and he said its usually the front rotors. Before I take it in I'd like to understand my options if its truly the rotors once they inspect.

My service indicator says I have about 15k miles left on my front pads, so it seems that I have to replace the front rotors, I'll also have to replace the pads, right? Is there an alternative to replacing the rotors? Can they be turned, etc.? I'm trying to determine alternatives to throwing away a good set of pads in the process.

Also, I have a service indicator to change brake fluid? How much is a reasonable price to pay to an indy BMW shop for this?

Thanks guys for the input

If the rotors are still thick enough you can turn the rotors if you really want to save some money. But like other have said, if you are going to do all the trouble (or pay someone to do it), you might as well as replace the pads and in my opinion just get new rotors.

I have to replace my rear pads pretty soon so I'm just going to do it all at once.