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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Navigation, iDrive, Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Phone, Coding Trunk Subwoofer w/o Ski Pass-through
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      12-03-2015, 10:43 PM   #111
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Okay fair enough I'll wait to see what you do with yours. I wonder if cutting a hole in the top rear deck and porting the subs through there would be a viable option. The box will be custom made I just need to figure out what design I want
Samething as thru the ski hole, won't work.
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      12-03-2015, 10:46 PM   #112
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Okay fair enough I'll wait to see what you do with yours. I wonder if cutting a hole in the top rear deck and porting the subs through there would be a viable option. The box will be custom made I just need to figure out what design I want
Samething as thru the ski hole, won't work.
Wait I'm confused why wouldn't it work? If the box is made to the specific cubic feet needed for the subs and instead of the port facing the rear of the car it would face inside the car, shouldn't that get rid of most trunk vibrations and direct bass inside the car? I've been seeing Steve meade's dyno tests they all seem good but he tests them under the best electrical. I'm just going to be using the factory electrical.
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      12-04-2015, 12:24 AM   #113
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Wait I'm confused why wouldn't it work? If the box is made to the specific cubic feet needed for the subs and instead of the port facing the rear of the car it would face inside the car, shouldn't that get rid of most trunk vibrations and direct bass inside the car? I've been seeing Steve meade's dyno tests they all seem good but he tests them under the best electrical. I'm just going to be using the factory electrical.
The port and the woofers need to be in the same listening area, the woofer and the port work together to produce sub bass freqencies. If you have the port firing into the cabin and the woofers in the trunk the sound will not be balanced and you'll only hear the ports tuned freqency loud and not any other without the woofers in the cabin also. The port of a ported box doesn't make bass it only helps the woofers produce a gain in certain freqencies.
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      12-04-2015, 11:21 AM   #114
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Can't wait to see how both of your guy's $hit comes out! I use to be a bass head and if it meant losing trunk space I didn't care. Nowadays I want bass but just enough bass! Maybe I'm getting old you know what it is...anything you want to do to the car cost mucho money...not like my integra where stuff was somewhat cheap I mean $1100 for a trunk spoiler! with car audio you know it was going to be expensive if done right but we all knew that. I'm just now getting use to the fact that cosmetics for the f10 isn't cheap!
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      12-04-2015, 09:14 PM   #115
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My battery showed up today but I'm still waiting on my dyna mat and zero gauge fuse holder and 400amp fuses. I weighed the box,subs,wiring,amp,extra battery and it looks like all this shit is going to add 173 pounds to the trunk. I still haven't put the dyna mat or the the subwoofer box covering on the scale yet but im guessing this will total around 200lbs. Damn it! It better sound f'n bad ass or it's going bye bye, if it sounds good I'll try to lose 100lbs to offset the weight of the subs. I'll look like a crackhead basshead there's got to be something I can take out of my car to lose weight, any ideas and don't say subs
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      12-05-2015, 01:22 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth View Post
My battery showed up today but I'm still waiting on my dyna mat and zero gauge fuse holder and 400amp fuses. I weighed the box,subs,wiring,amp,extra battery and it looks like all this shit is going to add 173 pounds to the trunk. I still haven't put the dyna mat or the the subwoofer box covering on the scale yet but im guessing this will total around 200lbs. Damn it! It better sound f'n bad ass or it's going bye bye, if it sounds good I'll try to lose 100lbs to offset the weight of the subs. I'll look like a crackhead basshead there's got to be something I can take out of my car to lose weight, any ideas and don't say subs
Start with small things like seatbelts and window and door lock motors. Or you can go straight for the heavy hitter: the windshield. Take out all of the glass and you've really got some savings.
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      12-05-2015, 07:47 AM   #117
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You can drive without 4 doors! I see people without hoods all the time! Lol

But damn that's pretty heavy!
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      12-05-2015, 11:34 PM   #118
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I went to a spl sound comp today and those guys have like 2-3 thousand lbs of stereo stuff in there vehicles, so I guess 200lbs isnt so bad after all. Most of those guys were running 4-8 18's on 10-35 thousand watts with 10-25 batteries. I heard and felt my first 160db setup and it's insanely loud, it definitely gave me motivation to get mine done as soon as my other stuff shows up.
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      12-06-2015, 06:41 AM   #119
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Back in Cali with my old car club a buddy of mine was all about the bass! His setup was pretty outrageous as the audio equipment including the box and the amp racks, batteries must've weighed a ton! His gas mileage sucked balls I remember! But he did not have mids or tweets because he said it took up space lol...pure SPL competitor! the only music he listened to was bass tones lol!
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      12-07-2015, 09:36 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by lsturbointeg
Can't wait to see how both of your guy's $hit comes out! I use to be a bass head and if it meant losing trunk space I didn't care. Nowadays I want bass but just enough bass! Maybe I'm getting old you know what it is...anything you want to do to the car cost mucho money...not like my integra where stuff was somewhat cheap I mean $1100 for a trunk spoiler! with car audio you know it was going to be expensive if done right but we all knew that. I'm just now getting use to the fact that cosmetics for the f10 isn't cheap!
I can't wait myself lol
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      12-08-2015, 06:15 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth
My battery showed up today but I'm still waiting on my dyna mat and zero gauge fuse holder and 400amp fuses. I weighed the box,subs,wiring,amp,extra battery and it looks like all this shit is going to add 173 pounds to the trunk. I still haven't put the dyna mat or the the subwoofer box covering on the scale yet but im guessing this will total around 200lbs. Damn it! It better sound f'n bad ass or it's going bye bye, if it sounds good I'll try to lose 100lbs to offset the weight of the subs. I'll look like a crackhead basshead there's got to be something I can take out of my car to lose weight, any ideas and don't say subs
Hey teddy how's the install coming along?
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      12-11-2015, 04:20 PM   #122
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I still havnt received my zero gauge fuse holder and 400amp fuses, so I called the place I ordered them from and they some how forgot to ship my order. So I'm still waiting and she promised it would ship out today. When I have everything, I will start my install the fuse is the most important part and I can't start since the wiring is first then the box and lastly the amp. The fuse/holder was the last piece I needed, hopefully I'll have this done by next week end.
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      12-11-2015, 05:54 PM   #123
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since we're talking subs here's my new problem! blew both my subs again in my Nissan Titan for using subs not rated for the amp i have. i was running in bridge mode lol! here's the specs:

old skool MTX Thunder 2300x

RMS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
150 Watts x 2 into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.05% THD+N
300 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load with less than 0.1% THD+N
600 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.1% THD+N

and here's the subs Rockford Fosgate R2D4-12 Dual 4 ohm
Peak Power: 500 Watts
•RMS Power: 250 Watts
•Nominal Impedance: Dual 4-Ohm


now here's the subwoofer i was thinking about getting

Type Component
Size 12"
Impedance 4Ohms
Voice Coil(s) Dual
Sensitivity 86.9dB
Peak Power Handling 1000 Watts
RMS Power Range 500 Watts
Top Mount Depth 5-¾"
Sealed Box Volume 1.0 - 4.6cu. ft.
Ported Box Volume 1.75 - 2.25cu. ft.

looks like i have enough clearance leaving me about 1" clearance.


i know before you guys lecture me i originally had JLW3's but i sold them before i could put them in. pick these up for only $50 just to use for now but my son decided to crank the volume up too high and well...they blew! so i can still run the amp in bridged mode 600 Watts into a 4 Ohm load as long as i wire the DVC(Kicker) correctly for the amp to see a 4 ohm load should be fine since both subs will be at 1000 watts RMS? now my only concern is the cubic air space in my box as it's for my Titan and not a whole lot of room. i googled what most Titan boxes with 12's gives me around ◦Air Space: 0.95 Cubic Feet Per Sub. this box is sealed with separate chambers for the subs. wondering if this is enough for these Kicker subs? my budget is around $300 for both subs so if you have any other recommendation let me know. chime in Teddylongtooth!
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      12-11-2015, 07:42 PM   #124
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since we're talking subs here's my new problem! blew both my subs again in my Nissan Titan for using subs not rated for the amp i have. i was running in bridge mode lol! here's the specs:

old skool MTX Thunder 2300x

RMS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
150 Watts x 2 into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.05% THD+N
300 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load with less than 0.1% THD+N
600 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.1% THD+N

and here's the subs Rockford Fosgate R2D4-12 Dual 4 ohm
Peak Power: 500 Watts
•RMS Power: 250 Watts
•Nominal Impedance: Dual 4-Ohm


now here's the subwoofer i was thinking about getting

Type Component
Size 12"
Impedance 4Ohms
Voice Coil(s) Dual
Sensitivity 86.9dB
Peak Power Handling 1000 Watts
RMS Power Range 500 Watts
Top Mount Depth 5-¾"
Sealed Box Volume 1.0 - 4.6cu. ft.
Ported Box Volume 1.75 - 2.25cu. ft.

looks like i have enough clearance leaving me about 1" clearance.


i know before you guys lecture me i originally had JLW3's but i sold them before i could put them in. pick these up for only $50 just to use for now but my son decided to crank the volume up too high and well...they blew! so i can still run the amp in bridged mode 600 Watts into a 4 Ohm load as long as i wire the DVC(Kicker) correctly for the amp to see a 4 ohm load should be fine since both subs will be at 1000 watts RMS? now my only concern is the cubic air space in my box as it's for my Titan and not a whole lot of room. i googled what most Titan boxes with 12's gives me around ◦Air Space: 0.95 Cubic Feet Per Sub. this box is sealed with separate chambers for the subs. wondering if this is enough for these Kicker subs? my budget is around $300 for both subs so if you have any other recommendation let me know. chime in Teddylongtooth!


I don't see why those wouldn't work, my buddy replaced some Jl's with some kickers and he liked them better. Just make sure you get dual 4ohm so you can run the woofers coils in series and then run the woofers in parallel to get a 4ohm load to your amp. The airspace is at the minimum so I would put 2 1lb bags of poly fill in the box and you should be golden. You can get poly fill at Walmart for cheap, I just picked up some for my box. Just evenly stuff it in the box, don't glue it or staple it. It needs to be able to move freely behind the subs, if you've ever heard of heat from compression, as the woofers move they make heat as they compress the air inside the box. The poly fill vibrates and cools down the air and this cooling effect makes the woofers sound like they are in a larger box, so it should make up for your small airspace.
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      12-11-2015, 10:05 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth View Post
I don't see why those wouldn't work, my buddy replaced some Jl's with some kickers and he liked them better. Just make sure you get dual 4ohm so you can run the woofers coils in series and then run the woofers in parallel to get a 4ohm load to your amp. The airspace is at the minimum so I would put 2 1lb bags of poly fill in the box and you should be golden. You can get poly fill at Walmart for cheap, I just picked up some for my box. Just evenly stuff it in the box, don't glue it or staple it. It needs to be able to move freely behind the subs, if you've ever heard of heat from compression, as the woofers move they make heat as they compress the air inside the box. The poly fill vibrates and cools down the air and this cooling effect makes the woofers sound like they are in a larger box, so it should make up for your small airspace.
yup...had the polyfill in my Acura Integra enclosure. built the box to JL specs for the 2 12W3's. no need for ring spacers than right to give it a 3/4" rise? wanted to go JL's again but always heard good things with Kicker so i figure to give it a shot so i can finally have my own impression with Kicker's! thanks for chiming in!
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      12-13-2015, 03:59 PM   #126
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Guess who is almost done with the subwoofer install??? Yep almost done!
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      12-13-2015, 04:04 PM   #127
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Teaser...
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      12-13-2015, 04:06 PM   #128
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IMPRESSIVE! looks like the sub will not be seen and has to be installed than sealed up? by looking at it i'm guessing your trunk is gone? i see the port which comes through where the ski hole would be than goes back from there. how is the port attached as it looks like it's wedge...i'm looking for screws but all i see are the 7 screws on the side?
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      12-13-2015, 04:28 PM   #129
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Teaser...
Glad to see this update, man. Excited to see and hear about the end result
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      12-13-2015, 04:34 PM   #130
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I'm excited!!
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      12-14-2015, 02:47 PM   #131
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Ok guys I've got everything installed and it's loud but it vibrates the rear brake light and the back window like crazy. The vibration is so loud it's all you can hear over the bass, so I need to fix that ASAP with the Q mat I picked during the Black Friday sale. Sadly the audio control lc2i does not restore the lower frequency cut off from the stock stereo, but I have an audio control epicenter that will hopefully restore the super low bass. I just Finished the temp install at around 8:30pm last night and it's just thrown together and not all tidy and beautiful yet. I still have more tuning to do to get it sounding where I want it. I played it last night for about 2 hours of pounding bass and so far no electrical problems, only time will tell. I did however notice that the alternator is not kicking up the voltage after it plays for awhile not sure why yet but when I first started playing it the alt was giving me 14.4. I would like to find someone who can reprogramm the car to have the alt charging the battery all the time, but I have more testing to do. I will tell you this is an extensive install that will require you to be dedicated to this set up with full commitment to modification. But nothing I've done is permanent or unreversable, I can easily fill and seal up the ski hole and reattach the cloth to the back of the seat and put the black plastic cover over the ski hole and you would never know the ski hole was there. I'll post back after I find out more with the epicenter installed and the Qmat installed at the rear window brake light.

Last edited by Teddylongtooth; 12-14-2015 at 09:44 PM..
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      12-14-2015, 02:58 PM   #132
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A couple pics for guys, check the screws in the pics LS they are in there.....
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Last edited by Teddylongtooth; 12-14-2015 at 03:07 PM..
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