[Autobuffoonery]

D bag 493263,
I never said anything about driving on a track, I never said I slam on the brakes from 140 to test my brakes, your wrong about ceramic pads. You are an idiot and your obviously mad because I shut you down on your I'm AGIANST cross drilled rotors rant, Im not up selling I never heard of this vendor till last night. Maybe your unhappy with yourself, your life or your family but don't come over here spewing your bullshit on me, go get a life you jerk! But if your so bent on being a dick, let's hear some more of your worthless dribble.

[Simple5]

I just posted this up for those who were interested in them. Buy or do not buy. This company also upped their warranty to lifetime to cover cracking and warping of the rotors. The previous warranty before March/2015 was only 2 years.

[The Beast]

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by Simple3

I just posted this up for those who were interested in them. Buy or do not buy. This company also upped their warranty to lifetime to cover cracking and warping of the rotors. The previous warranty before March/2015 was only 2 years.

Simple, I know that bro, and thanks again for posting. There will always be a hater no matter what you are involved in, I speak from experience not made up BS.

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by The Beast

Lol! Don't worry I'm used to dealing with people who think they know it all.

[Simple5]

Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery

Simple, I know that bro, and thanks again for posting. There will always be a hater no matter what you are involved in, I speak from experience not made up BS.

No worries man. Just didn't want to open up a "war" lol... funny thing is ANY rotor will warp and crack given the right conditions. I've read oem bmw drilled rotors on the M vehicles cracking and those are cast that way, hell even stock blank ones.

My driving is 99% street with an auto-X once or twice a year. I'm not worried.

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by 493263

You didn't address anything actually. You just describe how it works and then claim what I said is misinformation.
Him
1. I've never heard anyone say stock rotors are bad or have seen recurring posts about broken rotors for the F10. Other previous BMWs, yes. Don't start with the "high carbon steel..." BS. They all claim that but they don't list the actual specs.

Me
1. Yes there is you obviously didn't look, never said anything about broken rotors. And yes centric list the rotos as high carbon steel.

Him
2. No kidding that ceramic pads don't have tiny metal particles. Why do you think one is called metallic and the other is ceramic.

Me
2. Thanks captain obvious, I was explaining where the dust comes from.

Him
3. I posted the link for people to see the cracked rotor. Just picked a random pic off google search. I can guarantee you this. You will find 100x bad stories about messed up slotted and drilled rotors than not.

Me
3. So a cracked rotor on the Internet means they all crack? How did you come up with that?

Him
4. Drilled rotors cannot be better than non cross drilled motor of the same material. Its structural integrity is compromised by drilling! duh!. That's why those drilled and slotted rotors built for racing is so expensive; they have to use much tougher materials to make it so it cost thousands. There's no such thing is +30% braking power over OEM. If you can prove that 30%, then I'll give you my life's savings and my 550. The bottleneck for braking in the F10 are the tires. Yeah $400 full set of rotors and brake pads that are superior than OEM rotors from BMW in every way? Are you insane? I'm not saying OEM stuff is good but you're on crack if you think some $400 aftermarket bundle is actually better. Change the tires and you'll see braking distance shrink by 20 ft or so at 70+.

Me
4. So the brembo and bear cross drilled rotors in the 5-6k big brake kits are compromised? Really?? You know this how? O' wait pics from the Internet.

Him
5. I don't know how you can ceramic pads are easier on rotors. They are a harder compound and will wear your rotors out faster. Ask ANY real mechanic. It's also why they don't have as much dust. There's no such thing as a superior performance long lasting pad that creates less dust without creating more wear somewhere else. Physics simply won't allow it.

Me
5. Ive been running them for years and my rotors don't wear out as fast as with metallic pads, never said they were superior either.

Him
6. Under load, high heat, and constant stress, the semimetallic pads will win hands down. They are more consistent with less fade. Ceramic is garbage for the track or heavy duty. This is BASIC knowledge of brake pads. People, including me, buy ceramic pads for lower dust and less noise. That's appealing for daily drivers.

Me
6. I NEVER said I tracked my car. Only daily driving.


Him
7. Rotor warping is not really about the rotor physically warping in nearly every case. Your claim of going 140 and slamming the brakes to test it is probably BS. If you know anything about judging braking performance, it's not about warping if you brake "many times at 140+". It's about FADING.


Me
7. I never said I go to 140 and slam on my brakes to test them, just that I have braked from going 140 without them starting to warp. Never talked about brake fade either, all stock brakes fade.

Him
8.... You know what. I'm just going to stop there because I would have to write an entire essay if I keep going. The point is you are so wrong on most of what you say that it's quite alarming and I am sad to see people actually believe you. Like seriously, anybody can simply look up this stuff with a simple google search like this one http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/t...-metallic.aspx

Me
8. You know what? You should prolly shut up because I didn't say half the crap you just mentioned in your survival response.


Him
Here's what I can tell. You are probably not a real mechanic; or you are a really bad one upselling products to make an extra buck. Maybe you're just trying to sound cool on the internet. Whatever you do, please do not mislead people with false information.


Me
8. Not an up seller, never heard of them till last night!


Him
Like I said, buy them if you want aesthetics but don't count on better performance. I'm willing to bet if you buy this bundle and run it on the track, it will actually perform worse than the OEM brakes. If you run it hard on the track, it will eventually fade and/or crack, but it probably won't warp like this guy is trying to convince you.

Me
I did say I bought them for aesthetics and did say they don't have any performance gain. And since I am using them I did however notice they are better than stock.

Are there anymore words you want to put in my mouth?

[Autobuffoonery]

Originally Posted by Simple3

No worries man. Just didn't want to open up a "war" lol... funny thing is ANY rotor will warp and crack given the right conditions. I've read oem bmw drilled rotors on the M vehicles cracking and those are cast that way, hell even stock blank ones.

My driving is 99% street with an auto-X once or twice a year. I'm not worried.

Im sure he'll be on here after he reads more nonsense from the Internet to try to prove me wrong. This kind of stuff is what I left behind in the F body and mustang forums, I guess there will always be a troll.

[550Reasons]

i've seen the ebay ones get cracked easily under pressure, but not others. Ive bought from R1 before and loved the slotted and drilled on my G37. I might give this site a try, I do need rears pretty soon.

[lsturbointeg]

Wow! the world must have ended! I've heard both good and bad things about cross drilled/slotted rotors. So why do most performance cars have them...the M5 comes with them stock? I had the stoptech cross drilled rotors on my Integra back in the days and IMHO felt a significance in braking. But that's just me.

[493263]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

I've heard both good and bad things about cross drilled/slotted rotors. So why do most performance cars have them...the M5 comes with them stock?.

Any car made for track days like the M series or the high end Porsches, need drilled rotors. It's not to improve street absolute performance. It improves the resistance to fade because it cools the rotors faster. A drilled rotor has less surface area for pad contact so why would anyone think it will have more braking power?

Integra days blew up because of the F&F movies. Most of the claims for aftermarket parts were bogus. If you swap your stock rotor for another of the same size and similar material but cross drilled, then your braking performance is actually worse.

True story: I had a 96 Prelude VTEC H22A and my friend had the Integra GS-R of the same year. He bought those slotted cross drilled brakes and upgrade to ceramic pads. He also had a bunch of bolt-ons that claim to add more power. About $3.5k of mods and his car was barely faster and braking performance was worse despite him swearing it was better.

We did some tests using my car as a standard with everything stock. His braking distance got much worse( like 15-20 feet longer) from 70mph. His 1/4 time went from 15.7 to 15.4 so slightly faster lol. At least the CAI and Catback exhaust sounded good. To no surprise, he rear ended me one day because his car didn't brake fast enough(FYI ceramic pads suck in cold weather). Nothing happened to my car since I had a trailer hitch on the back but his was wrecked.

Chances are, it was probably placebo effects that you felt. Most of the Honda driver that mod their cars have the same problem from the hundreds I've met back then. It's not exclusively Honda fans but Honda vehicles were wildly popular in the mod scene back then.

[Autobuffoonery]

The mythical benefit of cross drilled, slotted or both is to cool the rotor and to expell the gases created from the heat as the pads break down. I beleave with high temperature performance pads made for racing along with cross drilled, slotted or both might make a small difference but repeated hard braking will heat up any rotor of any kind and cause brake fade. Not all cross drilled rotors used on the street will crack under normal driving, cheap China no name rotors might but I'm confident theses centric rotors will be fine for normal street driving with occasional hauling of the ass and hard braking. I'm putting them on my car simply for looks but so far I'm not getting any vibration or pulsation from the brake peddle I got with the stock rotors when I brake hard.

[lsturbointeg]

[493263]

Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery

The mythical benefit of cross drilled, slotted or both is to cool the rotor and to expell the gases created from the heat as the pads break down. I beleave with high temperature performance pads made for racing along with cross drilled, slotted or both might make a small difference but repeated hard braking will heat up any rotor of any kind and cause brake fade. Not all cross drilled rotors used on the street will crack under normal driving, cheap China no name rotors might but I'm confident theses centric rotors will be fine for normal street driving with occasional hauling of the ass and hard braking. I'm putting them on my car simply for looks but so far I'm not getting any vibration or pulsation from the brake peddle I got with the stock rotors when I brake hard.

1. Nearly all rotors are made from China so good luck finding one that's not.

2. Rotors using proper high density steel with proper machining and heat treatment cost a lot of money because it involves expensive tools and labor. There's no way anyone can sell you 4 rotors that was properly machined, heat treated, cross drilled, and slotted including pads for $400. Well, unless they plan on losing money.

3. Brake pads no longer cause enough gas build up to be a problem anymore. That used to be a problem because they used materials that creates gas when heated up. That was a safety issue and the designs were changed.

4. You will NEVER find a situation where you need cross drilled rotors in a modern car on the street unless you drive like a maniac endangering everyone. Even on the track for many common track cars like Miatas with brake upgrades still don't use drilled rotors.

5. I don't know why you're so confident street driving won't crack a drilled rotor. These things crack all the time. Do a google search and you'll find thousands of results while barely anything will pop up about brake fade in street driving.


Again, I agree with you that buying these rotors for aesthetics is a good reason because they look very nice. However, you are utterly wrong and misinforming people that these cheap rotors will enhance performance. It will probably only make it worse. Even with their claim of high carbon steel, it will still rust like crazy in the North East.

[Autobuffoonery]

493263,
I don't agree with you and you don't agree with me, that's fine. I'm not debating this topic with you anymore, I said what I have to say and the other members can make up thier own minds. I spoke from my own experience and made nothing up, I did order the rears to match my fronts and will post when I get them installed with pics. I don't think it's fair to the other members to read all the arguing and will no longer respond to you. To the other members just trying to get a good deal I'm sorry this lasted as long as it did and I hope you stay tuned to see my results.

[lsturbointeg]

So this was fun!

[The Beast]

[JamRWS6]

Originally Posted by 493263

You didn't address anything actually. You just describe how it works and then claim what I said is misinformation.

1. I've never heard anyone say stock rotors are bad or have seen recurring posts about broken rotors for the F10. Other previous BMWs, yes. Don't start with the "high carbon steel..." BS. They all claim that but they don't list the actual specs.

2. No kidding that ceramic pads don't have tiny metal particles. Why do you think one is called metallic and the other is ceramic.

3. I posted the link for people to see the cracked rotor. Just picked a random pic off google search. I can guarantee you this. You will find 100x bad stories about messed up slotted and drilled rotors than not.

4. Drilled rotors cannot be better than non cross drilled motor of the same material. Its structural integrity is compromised by drilling! duh!. That's why those drilled and slotted rotors built for racing is so expensive; they have to use much tougher materials to make it so it cost thousands. There's no such thing is +30% braking power over OEM. If you can prove that 30%, then I'll give you my life's savings and my 550. The bottleneck for braking in the F10 are the tires. Yeah $400 full set of rotors and brake pads that are superior than OEM rotors from BMW in every way? Are you insane? I'm not saying OEM stuff is good but you're on crack if you think some $400 aftermarket bundle is actually better. Change the tires and you'll see braking distance shrink by 20 ft or so at 70+.

5. I don't know how you can ceramic pads are easier on rotors. They are a harder compound and will wear your rotors out faster. Ask ANY real mechanic. It's also why they don't have as much dust. There's no such thing as a superior performance long lasting pad that creates less dust without creating more wear somewhere else. Physics simply won't allow it.

6. Under load, high heat, and constant stress, the semimetallic pads will win hands down. They are more consistent with less fade. Ceramic is garbage for the track or heavy duty. This is BASIC knowledge of brake pads. People, including me, buy ceramic pads for lower dust and less noise. That's appealing for daily drivers.

7. Rotor warping is not really about the rotor physically warping in nearly every case. Your claim of going 140 and slamming the brakes to test it is probably BS. If you know anything about judging braking performance, it's not about warping if you brake "many times at 140+". It's about FADING.

8.... You know what. I'm just going to stop there because I would have to write an entire essay if I keep going. The point is you are so wrong on most of what you say that it's quite alarming and I am sad to see people actually believe you. Like seriously, anybody can simply look up this stuff with a simple google search like this one http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/t...-metallic.aspx

Here's what I can tell. You are probably not a real mechanic; or you are a really bad one upselling products to make an extra buck. Maybe you're just trying to sound cool on the internet. Whatever you do, please do not mislead people with false information.

Like I said, buy them if you want aesthetics but don't count on better performance. I'm willing to bet if you buy this bundle and run it on the track, it will actually perform worse than the OEM brakes. If you run it hard on the track, it will eventually fade and/or crack, but it probably won't warp like this guy is trying to convince you.

Good post. Real racing cars use solid discs, drilling and slotting is purely for looks and marketing as a solid disc has waaaay better performance characteristics. Definitely take these rotors mentioned as nothing more than a good priced replacement for someone who needs new rotors. The stock discs are good quality. I also had vibration on my stockers at 40k. Then again they are brakes on a heavy car that can be driven very aggressively. Replace and move on.

[Autobuffoonery]

I received my rear rotors and pads today!

[Autobuffoonery]

I'm putting my new rear CROSS DRILLED rotors and ceramic pads tomorrow

[Simple5]

Originally Posted by Autobuffoonery

I'm putting my new rear CROSS DRILLED rotors and ceramic pads tomorrow

Right on dude! I'm going to be putting mine on Monday! Post pics when done!

[lsturbointeg]

U guys need to post some pictures when u do!