[BeeEmmDubleYuu]

Coming close to the end of my warranty in a few months on the LCI 2013 model and looking at a 65 plate 5 series.

There's not a lot of change between a 65 plate and my current model with the new model being released next year (from what I've heard).

The part exchange price is slightly high but i haven't negotiated anything just yet and got a price to see what they would offer at this stage.

If i decide to keep my current car for another, i would have to MOT the car, change the tyres, brake pads etc etc, part of me thinks to get another one.

Would you guys continue to get another same car with a different colour for another few years or stay put until the new 5 series model is released (which would be a lot more expensive when first released and dealers probably wont drop the price too much either, i imagine)?

[kinhwear]

Do you mean new or a used 65?

If new then you should easily get 23% or more discount, if used then factor that in and expect it to be significantly lower percentage-wise from list.

I bought new in November on the basis that it is going to be well into 2017 before we probably see cars arriving and always best not to be a tester for BMW!!

[HighlandPete]

Sort of things in my mind. What is the current car's mileage? What is the cost of change, before you are on a level paying field again? Do you want another car with higher yearly deprecation, if it is basically the same car? Newer the car, typically the worse the depreciation.

You can run with an extended warranty, replacement tyres is not really an extra cost as you use tyres anyway. OK I know timing of a change can reduce/fudge the actual cost, but a dealer may pay you less as a trade-in seeing the car needs new tyres.

Say the cost of change is £2,000 that is a fair amount to keep the present car in top condition at no extra cost.

If you don't calculate ppm (pence per mile) running costs, or just want a newer car, the decision is likely going to be different than getting the best value out of the car you have at present.

[ScottC25]

Just bought a new 535D following my previous car getting written off. Got a quote from coast2coast cars, and then dealt with a dealership in Crewe that were first class from start to finish.

Got something like £13500 off the list price. Based on doing a PCP it actually ended up cheaper than buying an approved used one due to getting the lower rate of finance on the new car.

I figured that it'll be the end of 2017 before the new shape is seen in numbers, and I couldn't really wait anyway as I had no car, so my situation was different to yours.

It is without a doubt a fantastic car though, very pleased with it so far, compared to the 520D I had before it.

[The Beast]

You need to run some figures as others have suggested. Do you own your car outright or is it on a PCP? Really you need to look at cost of changing it v the cost of the maintenance required plus and extended warranty (I would run it without one but it appears this is you're main concern). Also look at how long you would need to run it this way before you would realistically get into a new shape 5.

[BeeEmmDubleYuu]

Originally Posted by kinhwear

Do you mean new or a used 65?

If new then you should easily get 23% or more discount, if used then factor that in and expect it to be significantly lower percentage-wise from list.

I bought new in November on the basis that it is going to be well into 2017 before we probably see cars arriving and always best not to be a tester for BMW!!

Its a 65 plate used (approx 3-6K mileage on ones ive seen)

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Sort of things in my mind. What is the current car's mileage? What is the cost of change, before you are on a level paying field again? Do you want another car with higher yearly deprecation, if it is basically the same car? Newer the car, typically the worse the depreciation.

You can run with an extended warranty, replacement tyres is not really an extra cost as you use tyres anyway. OK I know timing of a change can reduce/fudge the actual cost, but a dealer may pay you less as a trade-in seeing the car needs new tyres.

Say the cost of change is £2,000 that is a fair amount to keep the present car in top condition at no extra cost.

If you don't calculate ppm (pence per mile) running costs, or just want a newer car, the decision is likely going to be different than getting the best value out of the car you have at present.

I dont fully understand this but i purchased my car outright. I've done approximately 22K miles.

Originally Posted by The Beast

You need to run some figures as others have suggested. Do you own your car outright or is it on a PCP? Really you need to look at cost of changing it v the cost of the maintenance required plus and extended warranty (I would run it without one but it appears this is you're main concern). Also look at how long you would need to run it this way before you would realistically get into a new shape 5.

I think your correct. My concern is having to pay the cost of brake pads etc if the price of a new car with a discount is giving me value when the depreciation on mine could become less. I paid approx 9K in Jan 14 for my current car when i exchanged it from my 11 plate 5 series. Im working this out to be £333 cost per month (assuming this is the correct way to work this out) if i have it up until April 16. If im planning for a new model 5 then i would be looking around later 2017 i'd imagine.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by BeeEmmDubleYuu

I think your correct. My concern is having to pay the cost of brake pads etc if the price of a new car with a discount is giving me value when the depreciation on mine could become less. I paid approx 9K in Jan 14 for my current car when i exchanged it from my 11 plate 5 series. Im working this out to be £333 cost per month (assuming this is the correct way to work this out) if i have it up until April 16. If im planning for a new model 5 then i would be looking around later 2017 i'd imagine.

Working out the present car's cost per month will depend on what the part exchange value is, compared to what it's value was in Jan 14. It is what you have lost from Jan 14 until the change. Not what you put in the pot, as it were.

I sense you are already minded to change cars, (warranty, brakes, tyres, MOT, etc.), if so it is easy to use man maths to get to where you want to be. Just make sure you get the best deal. As said, new car deals at present are likely to be the best way forward, particularly if you are using someone else's money. Unless you can get a really good deal on a nearly new car.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by BeeEmmDubleYuu

I dont fully understand this but i purchased my car outright. I've done approximately 22K miles.

Not quite sure which part you don't understand, but if it is ppm, I'll try and explain.

Say the total running costs per mile, so far (everything taken into consideration) is ~80ppm for 12k miles per annum, replacing the car may cost you similar money, or bump it up a bit (say ~85ppm) if the next car is newer than the age of the present car when you bought it.

Running the present car for another two years, even with added running costs, (the costs you don't see with a newer car), could reduce the ppm. Say ~75ppm for the next two years, until the new model is around in plentiful supply.

So it may cost you ~10ppm extra to run a newer car for the next period. Making a few calc's based on projected costs for each option may really help in making the best financial decision. You may have your mind already set on moving on, where costs are not really the prime concern. You may simply feel better being in a newer car, seeing that as added value, rather than spending on extended warranties, MOTs, brake parts, etc., even if the total costs are a little more.

BTW, I totally understand moving on, even if the true costs are a bit more. Being in a newer car, simplicity of running the newer car, plus added peace of mind, do all have value.

[The Beast]

I think that you need to look at what your trade in value is now as the starting point. Then you need to estimate additional loss of value if you keep it, plus any cost over and above routine maintenance on a new car, plus the cost of the warranty. Then calculate loss of value on the new car plus any deposit paid. This should give you and idea of which is best.

But trying to estimate those figures including the impact on values of the new model will be difficult. However I feel the new model will hit the values of nearly new more than older cars...