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      05-31-2015, 01:36 AM   #45
BimmerMan33
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Rear brake pads & pad sensor replaced, service interval reset.

Just replaced rear brake pads on my 5er this weekend.
Post by Steve G and a few others was very helpful.

I would like to add:

Tools needed:
- 13 mm & 15 mm spanner for central floating caliper removal
- Torx/Hex key T30 for the 2 torx screws for removal of EMF actuator.
- Torx/Hex key T45 to turn the splines CLOCKWISE on the EMF actuator.
- Autozone has a disc brake caliper spreader tool for < $10, comes in handy when pushing back the piston, instead of using a C clamp. You still have to turn the EMF actuator spline clockwise until it stops.

Only the right inner pad has the pad wear sensor.
Inner & outer pads are not the same. Only the inner pad has the slot for the sensor.

Preferably lock the car with key fob/remote while changing pads, otherwise you may get "parking brake malfunction warning".

Once pads & sensor has been replaced, you can reset the service interval in the following way:
Sit in the car & close the door. Press Start/Stop once without pressing the brake, various instrument cluster warning lights light up normally.
Then, press & hold the trip meter reset button (left lower corner) for 5 seconds. May have to try more than once.
Various reset options appear on the small screen of the dashboard instrument panel including option to reset rear brake pads. Keep pressing the trip meter reset button briefly until rear brake pad reset option appears, then press trip meter reset button, it asks you to reconfirm, press & hold again, resetting.... appears. Rear brake pad service interval is reset to 47000 miles. This will also reset the red "BRAKE" light in the instrument cluster, provided it was on before the pads were replace and the pad sensor was also replaced.

Hope this helps!
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      06-02-2015, 04:31 AM   #46
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appreciate the pics and updated feedback to tackle the rear brake job process! Feeling more confident to do this on my f10 with this thread.
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      06-05-2015, 12:55 AM   #47
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Changed out the rear brake pads today, overall it was straight forward process. The only issue i encountered was my 15mm wrench (husky brand) was too thick and it was impossible to wedge in during the caliper bolts removal. Ended up using a generic wrench which was thinner.

I didn't get any error codes or the dreaded parking malfunction warning after the install. However I was unable to reset the rear brake pad service reminder which should show up in 1000 miles. Followed the procedure above to get to the menu, but kept giving me "reset unsucessful" . Otherwise glad i did this myself to save money and peace of mind it was done correctly , particularly the EMF actuator portion. BTW, don't be surprised during the turning of the EMF actuator and it doesn't stop. It took more than 10 turns until it couldn't be turned.
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      06-05-2015, 06:52 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydiem8 View Post
...BTW, don't be surprised during the turning of the EMF actuator and it doesn't stop. It took more than 10 turns until it couldn't be turned.
I had a similar experience and was beginning to wondering if the rotating was doing anything...
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      06-14-2015, 12:43 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EV0LVE View Post
It took about 5 tries to reset the rear pads. I also tried it with and without the parking brake on and off, which may not matter to you as you're doing the fronts.

I did not have to the front pads.
I finally got around to resetting the brake service indicator in the hidden menu. I had a similar experience where i had to try 5 or 6 times to get both the front and rear indicator to reset. Before the last attempt, I released the parking brake, and when I retried after that I finally got the "reset successful" message. Not sure whether the parking brake was the key, or if it just finally worked after multiple attempts...
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      06-24-2015, 12:13 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzzbullseye View Post
I finally got around to resetting the brake service indicator in the hidden menu. I had a similar experience where i had to try 5 or 6 times to get both the front and rear indicator to reset. Before the last attempt, I released the parking brake, and when I retried after that I finally got the "reset successful" message. Not sure whether the parking brake was the key, or if it just finally worked after multiple attempts...
Unfortunately I still get "reset unsuccessful" message every time i attempt to reset my rear brakes. I'm able to reset the oil, vehicle check, and front brakes with "reset successful" Tried with parking brake ON and OFF. I recently changed the rear brake pads, all is good. Didn't get the red BRAKE light on the dash, until I was down to 500 miles remaining based on the rear brake pad service indicator. Now I get the annoying prompt to drive moderately to have rear pads changed. In reality I've already changed with new rear pads. The only thing I didn't do was put in new rear brake sensors, I re-used the old ones. I have new brake pad sensors on the way, hopefully I'll be able to reset after I put them in. Is the root cause the old sensors? The front I swapped in new sensors, since the pads came with it. The rear pads didn't come with any.

BTW , i'm loving the Akebono ceremic pads. Its amazing that it produces zero brake dust. Performance is on par with stock if not better. It does squeal during the first thousand miles but eventually the noise goes away completely.
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      06-24-2015, 06:52 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydiem8 View Post
Unfortunately I still get "reset unsuccessful" message every time i attempt to reset my rear brakes. I'm able to reset the oil, vehicle check, and front brakes with "reset successful" Tried with parking brake ON and OFF. I recently changed the rear brake pads, all is good. Didn't get the red BRAKE light on the dash, until I was down to 500 miles remaining based on the rear brake pad service indicator. Now I get the annoying prompt to drive moderately to have rear pads changed. In reality I've already changed with new rear pads. The only thing I didn't do was put in new rear brake sensors, I re-used the old ones. I have new brake pad sensors on the way, hopefully I'll be able to reset after I put them in. Is the root cause the old sensors? The front I swapped in new sensors, since the pads came with it. The rear pads didn't come with any.

BTW , i'm loving the Akebono ceremic pads. Its amazing that it produces zero brake dust. Performance is on par with stock if not better. It does squeal during the first thousand miles but eventually the noise goes away completely.
I'm not sure why you're having the "reset unsuccessful" issue with the rear still. I don't think it's because you reused the brake wear sensor, because I reused mine on both front and rear and was able to eventually get both to reset.
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      06-28-2015, 06:42 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzzbullseye View Post
I'm not sure why you're having the "reset unsuccessful" issue with the rear still. I don't think it's because you reused the brake wear sensor, because I reused mine on both front and rear and was able to eventually get both to reset.
I cleared it on first attempt today when I swapped in a new rear brake pad sensor ($8 from ebay). Most likely the original got worned out, although it looked ok. No more annoying brake reminder light
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      09-07-2015, 02:07 PM   #53
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Thanks for the post! Made changing the brakes a breeze. Thanks for the pics. How Bmw justify $750 plus tax?
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      09-27-2015, 08:51 PM   #54
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Solved: Parking Brake Malfunction Code After Brake Pad Replacement

SOLVED - PARKING BRAKE MALFUNCTION CODE!

I did this job and got the dreaded parking brake malfunction code. I couldn’t find any solution on the internet to this other than take it to the dealership and have the code cleared. Now I followed this post to the letter and only made the mistake of unlocking the doors while I had an the Electronic Parking Brake ("EMF") wiring harness at the caliper disconnected. I thought this was the reason for the code. I even bought the “Carly for BMW” code reader and wifi/obd dongle, and paid for the $50 App. It couldn’t clear the code.

Now this EMF motor is just like a window regulator or a 12v winch. Its connector is 3 prong – and I’m confident these 3 prongs carry the following circuits:
1. Motor retract ( 12v+)
2. Ground (12v-)
3. Motor extend (12v+)
As I was trying to clear these codes, I kept hearing motion at the rear brakes and the codes would be reset and automatically re-triggered. As an F10 owner has likely noticed, every time you start the car, open the doors, lock the doors the ECU for the EMF will cycle its test sequence. It does it all the time. The fact I couldn’t clear the codes indicated there might be a physical problem present.

Anyhow, in thinking about what that test sequence would be, I reasoned that you would need to test the extend function and the retract function. You’d be testing for both continuity in each circuit (bad connections) and a lack of seizure in any direction (by measuring the ampacity of each of the two circuits when the test sequence is run).

Conclusion:

If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).

Solution:

1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted;
b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ½ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels.
When I unlocked the doors I immediately heard the gear drive going backwards and forwards (the EMF test cycle was being run). The best part, the “Parking Brake Malfunction” notice in my dash was GONE! (No code reader/clearing necessary).

I really hope this helps someone and contributes to the community. Now you don’t have to take it to the dealership and have them electronically extend the EMF in between EMF test cycles to clear the code. Just saved $180 at the dealership. Ran the Carly for BMW and cleared all codes which couldn't be cleared before the EMF position was moved from bottomed-out retracted position.
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Last edited by Jim_in_Calgary; 09-27-2015 at 09:11 PM.. Reason: typo
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      10-26-2015, 04:51 PM   #55
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Has anyone tried a tool like the one in the link below? If so, does this eliminate the need to remove the EMF actuator from the brake caliper? Thx!

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...eset-tool.aspx
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      11-05-2015, 09:22 PM   #56
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Update after changing brake pads today on the f10 550xi:

Although the tool listed above would probably fit the notches in the piston, it is unnecessary as the job was easy enough without it. Thanks everyone for the great information!
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      11-13-2015, 02:38 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superlazy View Post
Update after changing brake pads today on the f10 550xi:

Although the tool listed above would probably fit the notches in the piston, it is unnecessary as the job was easy enough without it. Thanks everyone for the great information!
BMW's ISTA system actually lists that tool now and it does not say the EMF unit has to be turned back by the computer anymore.
It just lists turning the piston back with the 3 pin tool.

Need to get hold of a BMW tech to see if they have changed the procedure at dealerships and now only use the new tool. .
It should save all the time of removing the actuator unit.


Couple makes of the 3 pin tool now available, since Audi also use it
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      12-01-2015, 03:15 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_in_Calgary View Post
Conclusion:

If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).

Solution:

1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted;
b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ½ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels.
When I unlocked the doors I immediately heard the gear drive going backwards and forwards (the EMF test cycle was being run). The best part, the “Parking Brake Malfunction” notice in my dash was GONE! (No code reader/clearing necessary).
To clarify - none of the other guides suggest doing this, is this because it's only necessary if you accidentally trigger a test sequence whilst doing the job?

So provided you leave the car locked with the ignition off this extra step shouldn't be necessary and you only need to wind the EMF gear as part of removal process not as part of the refitting process?

Also on some of the videos I've seen people are replacing what look like the hex bolts. Is this necessary?

Last edited by Fox530; 12-01-2015 at 03:57 PM..
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      12-06-2015, 12:36 AM   #59
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.....

Last edited by yogi799; 12-14-2015 at 12:52 AM..
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      12-14-2015, 12:51 AM   #60
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Thanks mainly to Steve G, ZZZbullseye and bimmerman33 their instructions allowed me to do the rear pads today, I would like to add a few pointers, to possibly limit the head-scratching.

If you're using a standard jack (as oppose to the alligator hydraulic jack) do each wheel at a time. Even if you have 2 standard jacks, it will not be stable to hold the car up.

As mentioned, the parking brake needs to be off in order pull out the EMF actuator. The car has to be off, keys outside of the vehicle. If you get an error after unplugging the EMF cable or the EMF actuator from the caliper, do not panic. Simply proceed as the EMF will recalibrate when you put everything back together.

The parking brake spline should be rotated CLOCKWISE, this can be done by hand, even with a standard 7mm allen key.

The rear oem pads come with 4 retainers, and 4 new bolts for the floating caliper. You may have to re-use the old retainer and bolts if you bought an aftermarket pads.

The brake wear sensor is sold separately. For US cars, the rear brake wear sensor is on the passenger side. Pay attention to the cable routing, as it goes thru the top of the caliper. The plug goes on the inner pad, on the passenger side. The other end goes to a small plastic box, on the rear well. Pop the box open then undo the plug to remove it.

After you've installed everything back together, get in the car, press the brake pedal a few times, until you can feel resistance. Then start the car, activate and deactivate the parking brake a few times. Note that the EMF will take a while to spool the first time, as it will recalibrate. It will then go to normal after it recalibrates.

Hope this helps.
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      12-14-2015, 12:53 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yogi799 View Post
Was the sensor hard to replace? I've heard some nasty plastic wheel well pieces have to be removed (but maybe not for F10)?


__
The sensor is not hard to replace. The plastic box is not nasty, it's hinged on one side and pops out easily. Pay attention the cable routing though, as the cable goes through the caliper, as it attaches to the pad.
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      12-14-2015, 12:55 AM   #62
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Yeah, thanks Bud. I did it a few days ago as well. Yes, the sensor is as easy as it's always been.
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      01-11-2016, 06:22 PM   #63
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Brake pad sensor

Can anyone tell me if the sensor needs to be replaced when changing front pads, I'm just about to replace mine and would like to order along with the pads.
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      01-16-2016, 11:06 AM   #64
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Generally, if the sensor has not gone off, then you can re-use the old one.
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      02-24-2016, 01:58 PM   #65
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Changed the rear pads today, went easy thanks to info on this thread. The only thing to watch out for is the torx T30 to release the actuator/motor needs to have quite a thin shaft or it fouls the body of the motor. I was able to reduce the shaft of mine on a lathe (not easy, its hardened). You may need to grind down the shaft, its the hex shaft that fouls, something like this will be perfect http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yato-Profe...KzyFtxfNbeE_Jw less than £3.

My reset took 5 or 6 goes to reset. Went out for a ride and stopped along the way with the handbrake and footbrake off and it reset.

My car only has 15k miles and the service warning came on saying 900 miles left. The old pads had lots of life left but I replaced them anyway. Funny my car now says 22k miles before changing the new pads

Last edited by warmshed; 02-25-2016 at 02:05 AM..
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      04-07-2016, 12:09 PM   #66
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Question

are there 2 brake pad wear sensors on the rear of the car or only one on the uk models?

if only one side, which side is it one?
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