[Surly73]

I had a thought, I wonder if there's any interest...

We could start a sticky post for the DIY section consisting of "while you're in there" jobs that people should consider when planning work.

For instance, I have a PWG N55, and being the way I am I would be interested in resetting the wastegate control arm (a certain amount of deflection should occur with a certain vacuum draw). The first instruction on that job is "remove coolant pump". So - a "while you're in there" for coolant pump replacement that most people wouldn't think of should be to recalibrate your PWG wastegate control.

Thoughts? Or is there already something like this?

[r2dmax]

Not sure why no one replied, but I think this is a great idea

[mashpotato]

If you remove the intake manifold for whatever reasons,
- OFHG
- intake valve clean

and you have a high mileage car, replace the starter.

[sesh1957]

When you do the water pump at 100k or so, do the thermostat, dive belt, and the pulleys. When you do the spark plugs at 80K or so, do the valve cover.

[95blkmax]

If your oil pan is leaking on an N55 *RWD* you'll need the following:
-Oil pan gasket
-oil pan bolt set (one-time use, do not dare re-use these) + 2 bolts required that are not part of the set

WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE-
-Oil level sensor seal
- change oil
- turbo drain line

In addition to the above- If you have an *X-Drive*, you'll want to also do-
- differential/ output flange to oil pan seals
- diff output/ flange output seals
- axle nuts
- alignment (some suspension will have to be unbolted to remove the axles)

Keep in mind that this job requires access to an engine cradle to hold it in place, as the front subframe MUST be unbolted and lowered away from the engine to allow clearance for the oil pan to come out (the subframe can stay in place hanging from the suspension arms, but it must be unbolted from the engine- thus why you need a cradle to hold the engine (never trust a cherry picker/ engine hoist for this!!! you do NOT want to be under the engine if the hydraulic piston of the cherry picker gives out!)

[OnlyGerman]

This may be a obvious one but it worked for me...If high mileage and in need of changing spark plugs as PO may or may have not, change ignition coils while you're at it. I remember mine should idle rough, and after the new plugs and coils its gone. The 10% of roughness can be blamed to failing engine mounts.

Coils and plugs can be bought for just over $200

[Surly73]

Not experienced first hand but learned while preparing for a job:

If changing the rear diff mounts, change the flex disc. Make sure you change the disc while the diff is still unbolted.

[naCAnItihS]

To add to the water pump install (I didn't think to check the WG control arm.. ugh..). But this is a great time to upgrade to the GFB DV+, if that is something you want to do.

[Trainwreck914]

I'm in the midst of doing my a/c condenser as we text. I had already had the water pump, thermostat, coolant and bolts on hand. So I will tackle those while I'm in there. The condenser is a breeze to remove. I also took out the cooling fan so I have more room. Also easy. The thermostat is out now but was a bit of a pain. I did everything for that from on top. Probably spent about 90 min so far. Now looking at the water pump which seems to be the hardest part. It's only 3 bolts and the 2 hose connections and electrical connector. It's getting to them that's a pain. I have the active sway bar. So not sure if dropping the sway bar is an option. Without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.

Thought about adding the gfb dv+ but after researching it. I did not really see any significance in it for me.

[naCAnItihS]

Originally Posted by Trainwreck914

I'm in the midst of doing my a/c condenser as we text. I had already had the water pump, thermostat, coolant and bolts on hand. So I will tackle those while I'm in there. The condenser is a breeze to remove. I also took out the cooling fan so I have more room. Also easy. The thermostat is out now but was a bit of a pain. I did everything for that from on top. Probably spent about 90 min so far. Now looking at the water pump which seems to be the hardest part. It's only 3 bolts and the 2 hose connections and electrical connector. It's getting to them that's a pain. I have the active sway bar. So not sure if dropping the sway bar is an option. Without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.

Thought about adding the gfb dv+ but after researching it. I did not really see any significance in it for me.

You can drop the sway bar down a bit with the lines still on. I also unbolted the steering rack to get the pump out. Its a bit tight but doable.

[Trainwreck914]

Thanks. I got it done with just dropping the sway bar. Took the pump out from the top. What a pain in the ass this job was. Going back in was easier. Only one thing worried me...I did not disconnect the battery. So when I plugged up the wp. It came to life...dry. It ran for about 15 seconds then stopped. (Horrible screaming sound) I panicked. Tried to pull the connector but it gave me a hard time. Then it ran 2 more cycles like that until I was able to pull the plug. Was hoping if did not damage itself and worried that I'd have to do the job again. But so far so good.