[JimThot]

2011 535xi, n55. I had gotten the code 101F01 and when reading i saw a procedure to readapt the engine by unplugging the purge valve and letting it idle for 15 min and then plugging it back in. I did this and the engine light didn’t come back and also took it for a quick test drive and it was great. So i left the car over night. Next morning the car started but ran rough and died on itself. I’m not getting any codes other than the same 101F01 code and then a bunch of misfire codes form all cylinders. Can someone explain what is happening?

[zrile]

Maybe ignition coil or spark plugs?

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by zrile

Maybe ignition coil or spark plugs?

idk it was running fine other than the rough start up from the code mentioned.

[zrile]

Google says throttle angle, or pressure suction pressure too high. Check throtle valve for dirt, clean if neccesary, and check hoses for vacuum leak. How is car running, after rough start?

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by zrile

Google says throttle angle, or pressure suction pressure too high. Check throtle valve for dirt, clean if neccesary, and check hoses for vacuum leak. How is car running, after rough start?

So earlier it would start up and rpm’s would blip back and forth from 800 - 1500, and then stop and idle out at normal idle rpm and then be fine. i then did the purge valve adaption method since supposedly it helped people. and after the procedure i drove the car down the block and back a couple times and it was mint with no rough running. Next morning it starts up and then rpm’s go up and down and then eventually dies. If i hold the rpm’s at 1k+ it still boggs but doesnt die out. Live data shows that rail pressure and low pressure fuel is good. I haven’t checked the throttle but it does open and close. But now that i think about it i did see the throttle reading saying 8% or 8° when the car was off and the gas pedal was not pushed down… I just found it weird that it’s acting really bad after doing the purge valve method

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by JimThot

So earlier it would start up and rpm’s would blip back and forth from 1000 - 2000, and then stop and idle out at normal idle rpm and then be fine. i then did the purge valve adaption method since supposedly it helped people. and after the procedure i drove the car down the block and back a couple times and it was mint with no rough running. Next morning it starts up and then rpm’s go up and down and then eventually dies. If i hold the rpm’s at 1k+ it still boggs but doesnt die out. Live data shows that rail pressure and low pressure fuel is good. I haven’t checked the throttle but it does open and close. But now that i think about it i did see the throttle reading saying 8% or 8° when the car was off and the gas pedal was not pushed down… I just found it weird that it’s acting really bad after doing the purge valve method

I reset adaptions on the car and now it struggles to turn over and when it does it instantly shuts off. This all happened because i unplugged the purge valve as people were saying online

[JimThot]

This is the guide i followed for unplugging the purge valve

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...63029-9999.pdf

[JimThot]

I smell gas when it tries to turn over and when it does it fires up and then shuts off immediately after. What i’ve done so far is: unplug the purge valve connector, unplugged maf sensor, reset adaption on and off the increment wheel using ista+, reset throttle body adaption, disconnected the battery for over 10 min and nothing has helped. I’ve searched all over and i haven’t been able to see anything issue like mine

[ChiltiCoatl89]

have you performed any maintenance recently? how many miles?

[ChiltiCoatl89]

Check your Spark plugs and Coils, Check your plugs for smell of fuel.

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by ChiltiCoatl89

have you performed any maintenance recently? how many miles?

Originally Posted by ChiltiCoatl89

Check your Spark plugs and Coils, Check your plugs for smell of fuel.

I had just bought the car recently with knowing it had spun a rod bearing, it started up still and drove fine. Replaced the rod bearing and the knock went away but the same code, “101F01 Air mass system, plausibility: calculated air masses in the intake system not plausible.” was always there even before the rod bearings.

Before unplugging the purge valve plug it drove totally fine, now it is not starting anymore.

mileage is 160k km but i doubt the spark or plugs went the second i did the purge thing. i have a feeling its dme related and the fuel mixture is all messed up

[JimThot]

This is what is happening currently

https://youtube.com/shorts/7Lq50IlAY...dVR7zK-rteAFx0

[ChiltiCoatl89]

Watched your short, Reminds me of something very similar that happened to one of my previous cars, which was not a BMW. You performed a Throttle Adaptation reset correct? Maf sensor nice and clean? all air plumbing verified nice and secure?

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by ChiltiCoatl89

Watched your short, Reminds me of something very similar that happened to one my previous car, which was not a BMW. You performed a Throttle Adaptation reset correct? Maf sensor nice and clean? all air plumbing verified nice and secure?

yep did a smoke test and found no leaks. I was thinking of checking the throttle body so i’ll check the maf too but the live data showed it should be working fine.

[ChiltiCoatl89]

The solution I performed was a nice cleaning of the throttle body and it worked, however it was a VQ35de, not an N55. Different beasts.

[zrile]

Try disconnecting your lambda probe, any of them. If it is faulty, car will run the same, because no values will change. That way you know lambda is not working and mixture is not good. If your problem is related to fuel.

[Surly73]

I would be curious what happens if you disconnect the Valvetronic motor (forcing it to use the throttle body). (Related: unless there is already a Valvetronic failure, all the "Throttle body" stuff doesn't apply. The throttle body is WIDE OPEN unless Valvetronic has failed). I'm surprised that disconnecting the MAF didn't get it to start.

If you don't already have it, ISTA+ might be in order, especially if you expect to be DIYing in the future.

You might also try the Valvetronic learn/run in procedure (also ISTA) and see if it completes OK.

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by Surly73

I would be curious what happens if you disconnect the Valvetronic motor (forcing it to use the throttle body). (Related: unless there is already a Valvetronic failure, all the "Throttle body" stuff doesn't apply. The throttle body is WIDE OPEN unless Valvetronic has failed). I'm surprised that disconnecting the MAF didn't get it to start.

If you don't already have it, ISTA+ might be in order, especially if you expect to be DIYing in the future.

You might also try the Valvetronic learn/run in procedure (also ISTA) and see if it completes OK.

i have ista + and live data said the valvetronic was active and when i unplugged the maf sensor it threw a code with something about B+ cable or something and the car would just crank

[JimThot]

If I redo the reset on the adaptions on and off the increment wheel would that help at all?

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by zrile

Try disconnecting your lambda probe, any of them. If it is faulty, car will run the same, because no values will change. That way you know lambda is not working and mixture is not good. If your problem is related to fuel.

wouldn’t this cause a fault code to come up

[ChiltiCoatl89]

Originally Posted by JimThot

i have ista + and live data said the valvetronic was active and when i unplugged the maf sensor it threw a code with something about B+ cable or something and the car would just crank

B+ Code? Positive Battery connection to Fusebox?

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by ChiltiCoatl89

B+ Code? Positive Battery connection to Fusebox?

yes i’m not sure it came up after disconnecting the maf sensor, i retightened the battery connections and disconnected the maf sensor, and it didn’t make a difference, it started up and then quit on itself