2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10
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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions Brake pad renewal experience
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      04-08-2016, 05:02 AM   #67
warmshed
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On my car there was only one sensor, on the off side.
I used EBC OEM spec pads and am very pleased with them.
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      05-30-2016, 06:00 AM   #68
mlello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_in_Calgary View Post
SOLVED - PARKING BRAKE MALFUNCTION CODE!

I did this job and got the dreaded parking brake malfunction code. I couldn’t find any solution on the internet to this other than take it to the dealership and have the code cleared. Now I followed this post to the letter and only made the mistake of unlocking the doors while I had an the Electronic Parking Brake ("EMF") wiring harness at the caliper disconnected. I thought this was the reason for the code. I even bought the “Carly for BMW” code reader and wifi/obd dongle, and paid for the $50 App. It couldn’t clear the code.

Now this EMF motor is just like a window regulator or a 12v winch. Its connector is 3 prong – and I’m confident these 3 prongs carry the following circuits:
1. Motor retract ( 12v+)
2. Ground (12v-)
3. Motor extend (12v+)
As I was trying to clear these codes, I kept hearing motion at the rear brakes and the codes would be reset and automatically re-triggered. As an F10 owner has likely noticed, every time you start the car, open the doors, lock the doors the ECU for the EMF will cycle its test sequence. It does it all the time. The fact I couldn’t clear the codes indicated there might be a physical problem present.

Anyhow, in thinking about what that test sequence would be, I reasoned that you would need to test the extend function and the retract function. You’d be testing for both continuity in each circuit (bad connections) and a lack of seizure in any direction (by measuring the ampacity of each of the two circuits when the test sequence is run).

Conclusion:

If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).

Solution:

1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted;
b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ˝ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels.
When I unlocked the doors I immediately heard the gear drive going backwards and forwards (the EMF test cycle was being run). The best part, the “Parking Brake Malfunction” notice in my dash was GONE! (No code reader/clearing necessary).

I really hope this helps someone and contributes to the community. Now you don’t have to take it to the dealership and have them electronically extend the EMF in between EMF test cycles to clear the code. Just saved $180 at the dealership. Ran the Carly for BMW and cleared all codes which couldn't be cleared before the EMF position was moved from bottomed-out retracted position.
This post saved me a trip to the dealer. yesterday
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      05-30-2016, 09:27 PM   #69
djs95
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Auto H and Parking Brake Not Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthBomber View Post
Many thanks for this Steve. Saved my bacon - I'd never have worked out how to back off the park brake (EMF) without this.

I'd add a couple of refinements to your operation:-
  • You need a 15mm spanner to hold the back nut on the calliper as you undo the 13mm nuts.
  • I found it easier to unbolt the calliper bolts and remove the assembly before removing the EMF as the EMF bolts are easier to access that way.
  • It is possible to bolt the EMF actuator on 180 degrees out if you do it before refitting the assembly - be aware!
  • The EMF piston is easily wound out (clockwise!) using a 7mm allen key.
  • You need to have the handbrake OFF in order to reset the pad wear indicator.
  • The handbrake and auto-hold all just reset automatically.
I successful replaced my rear rotors and pads on my 2011 x3 (F25) using the same steps outlined here. However, after my parking brake does nothing and the Auto H just displays a message about manually applying brakes.

Anyone have any experience with those issues?


------- EDIT - June 3, 2016 ------------
I had my local BMW service dept, where I have a good service "advisor", look at it quickly and they resolved it, for free, and only listed these details:
"REAR BRAKES NOT CALIBRATED AFTER REAR BRAKE REPLACEMENT BY OUTSIDE SHOP. PROPERLY CALIBRATED REAR ELCTRO MECHANICAL BRAKE CALIPERS"

I'm not what they exactly did to calibrate it...

Last edited by djs95; 06-03-2016 at 03:52 PM.. Reason: Update status
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      06-30-2016, 11:56 AM   #70
F11-Diesel
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On 165k kms I changed pads, sensors, fluid and rotors today. Thanks to all of you who supplied all the info in this thread it is quite a straight forward job. The information on the back pads in the car information system seems to be a bit on the conservative side and resetting only gives a mere 45k kms, I will almost certain do another reset and get around 90k kms on these.
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