[ARC550]

Crank it higher!!!

[ARC550]

Crank it higher!!! You already have the 104 in there. Now is your chance!



QUOTE=Eli550;16222600]Duuudee! This car is on crack right now. It's at 1 o'clock and 104 octane. I just smoked my friends stage 2 STI... I have to buy downpipes! Someone sell me yours![/QUOTE]

[r33_RGSport]

Please don't do it until you change to catless downpipe. Otherwise you will melt the catalytic element inside the downpipe and it will become a clog. I believe you guys do understand what is going to happen next.

[badblack550xi]

best octane booster i use at track is NOS octane booster racing version... $9 per bottle at wallmart.. cheaper than anywhere.

[ezmaass]

Eli - don't push the dial past where BMS recommends unless you're willing to potentially pay to repair the damage. Leased, financed, or bought in cash, it doesn't matter - if you blow it up, you'll be left with the bill. BMW will deny a warranty claim where they suspect the damage is due to abuse - or in this case the use of a tune. The tune may be "undetectable" in the circumstance where it's used as directed and removed prior to a service; but, if it causes damage (in this case because you've misused it), the trail of evidence left won't require them to actually SEE the tune installed on your car to know what happened. Plus, like I said, I'd be surprised if BMW wasn't logging critical engine performance information, including the PSI of turbocharger boost, especially when things go wrong (like misfires) so they can diagnose it. It won't take a forensic genius to say, "huh... boost was 10 PSI higher than the ECU is programmed to allow... wonder how THAT happened?"

Everyone is entitled to do what they like with their own car and take their own risks, but I think ARC is giving you some pretty poor advice by suggesting you can just ignore BMS' directions and "crank it up." He may not have run into any problems yet, but it's the equivalent of advising someone to juggle chainsaws and say, "look, I've never been cut." I'd trust the manufacturer (Terry @ BMS) here. He's been in business doing this for quite a number of years now, and he has thousands of customers. Take a look at his thread on N54tech... you'll find a number of JB owners talking about problems they've encountered if they pushed the boost too high, as well as lessons learned and advice from Terry. I think Arc's "Big POWA" will translate to "Big DOLLA" repair bills over time! If he's prepared to pay those costs, that's cool - pay to play, I guess... but I'd know the risk you're taking before you decide to follow that advice.

[Eli550]

Originally Posted by ezmaass

Eli - don't push the dial past where BMS recommends unless you're willing to potentially pay to repair the damage. Leased, financed, or bought in cash, it doesn't matter - if you blow it up, you'll be left with the bill. BMW will deny a warranty claim where they suspect the damage is due to abuse - or in this case the use of a tune. The tune may be "undetectable" in the circumstance where it's used as directed and removed prior to a service; but, if it causes damage (in this case because you've misused it), the trail of evidence left won't require them to actually SEE the tune installed on your car to know what happened. Plus, like I said, I'd be surprised if BMW wasn't logging critical engine performance information, including the PSI of turbocharger boost, especially when things go wrong (like misfires) so they can diagnose it. It won't take a forensic genius to say, "huh... boost was 10 PSI higher than the ECU is programmed to allow... wonder how THAT happened?"

Everyone is entitled to do what they like with their own car and take their own risks, but I think ARC is giving you some pretty poor advice by suggesting you can just ignore BMS' directions and "crank it up." He may not have run into any problems yet, but it's the equivalent of advising someone to juggle chainsaws and say, "look, I've never been cut." I'd trust the manufacturer (Terry @ BMS) here. He's been in business doing this for quite a number of years now, and he has thousands of customers. Take a look at his thread on N54tech... you'll find a number of JB owners talking about problems they've encountered if they pushed the boost too high, as well as lessons learned and advice from Terry. I think Arc's "Big POWA" will translate to "Big DOLLA" repair bills over time! If he's prepared to pay those costs, that's cool - pay to play, I guess... but I'd know the risk you're taking before you decide to follow that advice.

I'm definitely not going to be anywhere close to the 4 o'clock setup. I'm going to keep it at the 1 o'clock setting with my muffler delete and octane boosters.

[ARC550]

I think Badblack and I have done more research then Terry and the entire BMS team on the N63/N63TU platform. Lol they took a Mini Cooper Jb tune and slapped it on our car with maybe a few hours if research. I have dynoed over a dozen times, tracked it over 100x times in 3 months., monitored air/fuel from bottom to top and the car is 100%. P.s I drive it like I stole it every single day at Max boost setting and the car loves it!

Originally Posted by ezmaass

Eli - don't push the dial past where BMS recommends unless you're willing to potentially pay to repair the damage. Leased, financed, or bought in cash, it doesn't matter - if you blow it up, you'll be left with the bill. BMW will deny a warranty claim where they suspect the damage is due to abuse - or in this case the use of a tune. The tune may be "undetectable" in the circumstance where it's used as directed and removed prior to a service; but, if it causes damage (in this case because you've misused it), the trail of evidence left won't require them to actually SEE the tune installed on your car to know what happened. Plus, like I said, I'd be surprised if BMW wasn't logging critical engine performance information, including the PSI of turbocharger boost, especially when things go wrong (like misfires) so they can diagnose it. It won't take a forensic genius to say, "huh... boost was 10 PSI higher than the ECU is programmed to allow... wonder how THAT happened?"

Everyone is entitled to do what they like with their own car and take their own risks, but I think ARC is giving you some pretty poor advice by suggesting you can just ignore BMS' directions and "crank it up." He may not have run into any problems yet, but it's the equivalent of advising someone to juggle chainsaws and say, "look, I've never been cut." I'd trust the manufacturer (Terry @ BMS) here. He's been in business doing this for quite a number of years now, and he has thousands of customers. Take a look at his thread on N54tech... you'll find a number of JB owners talking about problems they've encountered if they pushed the boost too high, as well as lessons learned and advice from Terry. I think Arc's "Big POWA" will translate to "Big DOLLA" repair bills over time! If he's prepared to pay those costs, that's cool - pay to play, I guess... but I'd know the risk you're taking before you decide to follow that advice.

[Sum1.]

ARC, can you refresh us here...what other mods you're running?
Also, how much manual shifting do you do? OR, do you let the car shift itself mostly?
I'm more concerned about the tranny not being able to handle the power running through it. Seen this in other cars a lot over the years.

[spyroz]

Hey, I just bought a BMS stage1 for my f10 550i ///MSport. Did you ever get it install, any recommendation because the instruction suck!

[macastel]

JUST GOT A 2015... Does anyone know how to reset the codes so They dont shoe if the dealer download them during service? (Risk of voiding the warranty)

[HFW003]

Tool32 willclear the codes.

[rabjab12]

does anyone have info on the rg sport module

http://www.rgsportshop.com/index.php...product_id=713

[mikekilpatrick]

You have to pull the carbon filters in the Intake area as well else you starve the tune. I believe it is 6 or 8 bolts, then you push in the 4 points of the tit that holds the Carbon filter in place. You will still be running Air Intake filters for particles. The carbon filters are strictly an emissions item.

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by rabjab12

does anyone have info on the rg sport module

http://www.rgsportshop.com/index.php...product_id=713

Hi,

What info do you need? That item is made by RaceChip Germany.
Let me know what questions do you have and I will answer it as much as I can.

[ARC550]

Originally Posted by Sum1.

ARC, can you refresh us here...what other mods you're running?
Also, how much manual shifting do you do? OR, do you let the car shift itself mostly?
I'm more concerned about the tranny not being able to handle the power running through it. Seen this in other cars a lot over the years.

All my shifting is Manual. I may do auto shift once a blue moon.
The transmission on this car is rated to handle over 650WTRQ. Trust me it can handle it lol.
Usually whatever the rating is add an extra 50-100wtrq on top as BMW is very conservative.

The transfer case is another story ahaha I had mine go out. I guess launching 100000x in in 20k miles will do that lol.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by ARC550

All my shifting is Manual. I may do auto shift once a blue moon.
The transmission on this car is rated to handle over 650WTRQ. Trust me it can handle it lol.
Usually whatever the rating is add an extra 50-100wtrq on top as BMW is very conservative.

The transfer case is another story ahaha I had mine go out. I guess launching 100000x in in 20k miles will do that lol.

hahahaha man you're crazy!
u def need to come with badblack550xi on the 26th

[rabjab12]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Hi,

What info do you need? That item is made by RaceChip Germany.
Let me know what questions do you have and I will answer it as much as I can.

Just curious if there was a comparo between the burger tune and the rg tune.
HP torque gains, etc

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by rabjab12

Just curious if there was a comparo between the burger tune and the rg tune.
HP torque gains, etc

on the N63Tu opasha tested both

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by rabjab12

Just curious if there was a comparo between the burger tune and the rg tune.
HP torque gains, etc

For N63tu, the BMS stage 1 is way to go. It only take 1-2 minutes to install. While the RC Ultimate (not RG tune), it takes longer due to different sensor being used.
Performance wise, they are similar.
The other difference, the RC Ultimate only have 1 adjustment dial, while the BMS Stage 1 is 2 (1 on each module for each cylinder bank).
And RC Ultimate is firmware upgradeable.

[747flyboy]

Turbos are sturdy, hard pressed to destroy ceramics/titanium or metal cast
keep them oiled and cooled and you are good to go. Detonation is a limiting factor and internal areas leading to component failure. I have the stage2 and pushing similar power. I bought a pair of Alpina turbos (rated at 507HP rather then 402HP on 550i) coupled with OEM M5 Downpipes and M5 exhaust. Pure 100octane race gas with Torco additive. Dyno, 543HP.

[FSociety]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

For N63tu, the BMS stage 1 is way to go. It only take 1-2 minutes to install. While the RC Ultimate (not RG tune), it takes longer due to different sensor being used.
Performance wise, they are similar.
The other difference, the RC Ultimate only have 1 adjustment dial, while the BMS Stage 1 is 2 (1 on each module for each cylinder bank).
And RC Ultimate is firmware upgradeable.

LOl @ Not RG Tune they have mistaken it for that?
I know 3 folks on the N63 & 2 on the N63TU as of now that have tested both.. (4 of them used BMS s1 first, Racechip Ultimate after, 1 of them used Racechip Ultimate first, BMS s1 after) their end result Racechip Ultimate was smoother and more powerful was felt as default settings.
Indeed RaceChip Ultimate is firmware upgradeable

Originally Posted by 747flyboy

Turbos are sturdy, hard pressed to destroy ceramics/titanium or metal cast
keep them oiled and cooled and you are good to go. Detonation is a limiting factor and internal areas leading to component failure. I have the stage2 and pushing similar power. I bought a pair of Alpina turbos (rated at 507HP rather then 402HP on 550i) coupled with OEM M5 Downpipes and M5 exhaust. Pure 100octane race gas with Torco additive. Dyno, 543HP.

+1 on Torco

[mikekilpatrick]

BMS stage 2 is an Excellent product. Two plugs on the turbos and then 4 wires on the wire harness in the ECU bay. 0-60 time is 4.2 seconds on pump gas. Went against a M4 this weekend and my BMS Stage 2 ensured my vehicle was faster.

What I would like to know is if you put a Dinan intake, exhaust and intercoolers, will it play nice with a BMW upgrade.

Also put a pedal box in this past week. Have to check the 0-60 time to see if it improved anything.

...Mike