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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Multiple climate control problems |
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01-09-2016, 09:58 AM | #1 |
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Multiple climate control problems
2011 BMW 550i, 11/10 build date.
The climate control/air conditioning blower is crapping out. I get intermittent air flow, stopping/starting/inconsistent speed. Looking at previous model years, this has historically been related to the FSR/FSU (final stage resistor/unit). Looking at the F10 chassis this is called the blower regulator, though it has the same function. Additionally, I have gotten an ionizer ground fault code for years. My climate control unit is poor at removing bad smells, likely mildew in the climate control system, I believe due to the ionizer (called ozone generator) being grounded or failed. Who on here has tackled this job, replacement of either component? If no one, has anyone removed the passenger side glovebox assembly entirely? Looking at older models the glovebox, it's associated surround, some ducting, etc. must be pulled out of the way to access the FSR/FSU. Blower regulator is piece #3 Ozone generator
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01-09-2016, 03:26 PM | #2 |
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Replaced the blower regulator, still not working. Could be the blower motor itself. Using my BT cable I have the following error in:
Blower output stage: open circuit detected in load circuit No clue currently with what exactly is wrong. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. |
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01-10-2016, 04:57 AM | #3 |
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I'm facing the ionizer ground fault code for some time also.
Curious about you dealing with that. The dealer said it's too much of a hassle to fix due to it being hard to reach and check and as it's not causing any malfunctions to the ac system, it's not worth the trouble... |
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01-11-2016, 05:35 AM | #4 |
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Gclions:
Sorry you're having trouble, but a tiny bit happy to see a real DIY thread for the F10. The code you're seeing does imply to me that there is a connection problem in the motor assembly, particularly since you've already changed the electronics. Of course you never know if the translation from German catching the nuance.... How hard is the blower to remove? In E39 days it was a big deal, but in the E90 era it got pretty easy. Not sure where the F10 lies in the difficulty scale. If you can get it out you might want to check the basics - loose connector pins, frayed wires, brushes (if any) getting stuck instead of advancing smoothly as they wear etc.... It specifically says "open circuit " so I don't think it's bearings or drag. I had no idea F10s had an ozone generator. I'd like more info on that - when does it operate? Only certain modes? |
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01-11-2016, 09:26 AM | #5 |
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I took a video of the removal, it took a while, mainly because I pulled the dash apart thinking it would be accessed like some older models.
For the F10, I assume all models, the blower and associated electronics must be accessed under the hood. Passenger side under the cowling by the windshield, remove that and just work your way down. It took me two hours total to pull the blower, swap out the regulator, and put it all back together including my dash. If I had known it was under the hood, I could have done it in an hour. While I was working on it I completely disconnected and reconnected the blower, so a loose connection or an intermittent fault due to a terminal might have been corrected, but in my case it wasn't. I didn't identify anything wrong with the wiring, so my hope is it's an internal wiring issue isolated to the blower motor. I'm likely going to take it to the dealer to see what the problem is. If it's the blower, I can replace it, but I don't want to randomly throw parts at it. I'll try to post the video later, as it may help guys work on any number of items on that side of the firewall. I'll work on getting more info on the ozone generator, as my guess is that is going to be one we're going to have to tackle ourselves as enthusiasts. If it's where I think it is, behind the dash, the dealerships will likely recommend against replacing it simply because of the hours involved and the minimal importance of the component. - Grant
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01-14-2016, 08:14 PM | #6 |
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After talking with my SA, he said the only other thing it could be was the blower. So, with that vote of confidence I picked one up from a local euro parts store (saved $180 over the dealership) and swapped it out. That fixed it, which is good news. If anyone ever needs to replace either part let me know. It took under an hour to swap it out.
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08-14-2016, 10:07 PM | #7 |
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Hi, gclions, I am still wondering how to take out the blower motor in my F10 520i in 2012. I have take out the air filter from the cabinet in the passenger side, but I cannot see the blower motor, Can you please help me to show its location and how to take it out? Thanks a lot.
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08-18-2016, 07:37 AM | #8 |
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Sorry, sold my car a month ago, so I've been away from the forum. The blower motor, and the associated resistor are underneath the passenger side cowling near the windshield. This is inside the engine compartment.
Pop the hood, remove the three trim retaining push clips from the cowling (the centers pop out far enough to remove them from the cowling). There is a plastic box or enclosure underneath, it is held down by (4) torx screws, remove those (4) screws and sit them aside. That plastic box needs to be able to be flipped up and out of the way, so take the cover off and find the heavy gage red wire from the battery inside. I believe that heavy gage red wire is held on by a 1/2" nut, remove the nut, disconnect the wire from the terminal, and replace the nut on the terminal to prevent losing it. The red wire has a rubber seal that it passes through, which can be popped up and out of the plastic box to allow it enough room to be moved out of the way. Underneath that plastic box (that you just flipped up and out of the way) is the top of the blower enclosure. I don't remember the number of screws, I think (4) similar to those previously removed, and (2) smaller torx screws total. Look around the perimeter of the enclosure, one is difficult to reach in the back corner (toward the windshield, and center of the car). Remove those screws and the enclosure top can be removed. Underneath that enclosure top is the blower assembly. There are (3) clipped in wire connectors (one on the front side (temperature sensor I think), one on the back side, and one on the side nearest the fender), and (2) more sets of wires routed on top of the assembly that go to the flaps that control air flow. The clipped in wires have a tab that can be pushed in to allow the connector to be removed without breaking it. I believe there are (4) more screws to remove and the blower assembly can be disconnected and removed from the car. The blower motor is screwed to the assembly, just remove it and replace it. The blower resistor is on the bottom as well, so tackle that if you need to. I ended up replacing both. I'm going from memory, so the number of screws might be incorrect. Really, once you find where it is, just keep digging down until you get to it. Last piece of advice. That very top cover has the filtered mesh on it where the blower sucks air in. This keeps debris from ending up in your blower. Taking mine in and out four plus times I broke that piece off, and I kept sucking leaves into the blower. It didn't affect performance of the A/C, but at high speeds the blower would make a noise from the leaf getting slapped around. Be careful taking it out, and don't force it. You have a strut tower brace that makes it a tight fit, but it can be done. I'm slow to respond, but I do still get emails when I get a private message, so if you need more immediate help with something, just let me know. - Grant
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06-06-2017, 12:08 AM | #10 |
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Drives: 2008 BMW X5 3.0
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Hi all.
So gclions are you saying that you can do ALL repairs/ replacement to the Final stage unit from under the hood behind the strut ? My ride is an f10 2013and the blower started acting up last week. it comes on and off at random times . When the fan is on and AC is on it is very cold, but couple of seconds and the blowers fades off and a minute later starts again then it fades away, no matter what speed or temperature i set it on. Can you please help, any body? I frankly do NOT trust my Local BMW dealers they are scam artists, they lie about everything even an oil change sometimes . I would prefer to Do it myself if i was sure it is the Capacitor ( final stage unit) THANKS |
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06-07-2017, 04:50 PM | #11 | |
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06-09-2017, 10:26 PM | #12 | |
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Thank you. I had leaves in my blower that made a really annoying deep noise when i turned the ac to max. Your walk through saved me, now I have cold ac on max. |
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07-04-2017, 11:44 AM | #13 |
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I didn't replace my blower motor resistor or FSU however by following this you can get to it. hope it helps someone
How to remove leaves/debri from blower motor BMW F10: How to fix the Blower motor housing with missing foam: |
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11-07-2017, 08:23 PM | #14 |
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I have a fault with the dual zone function blending temperatures, if both sides are set cool (say 23c), then you change say the passenger side to warmer (say 27c) the output from the drivers side vents is noticable affected with a temperature rise also, like as if it is not being seperated properly in the dash. Does anyone have a problem like this? I will make a new post about it too.
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03-04-2021, 11:28 AM | #15 |
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Fan Blower
Hi Grant, thanks for the info your fan blower motor/resistor replacement. I began doing the same with my 535i, however, the fan blower housing does not want to detach from the vent that connects back to the firewall. Did you come up with the same issue? Not sure if the plastic overtime melted with the fan blower housing so I'm stuck here and I don't want to cause any damage. Any advice?
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