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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Band and Olufsen Retrofit |
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02-25-2018, 03:53 PM | #1 |
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Drives: 2013 BMW F10 550 Xdrive Msport
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Band and Olufsen Retrofit
Ok, I have searched the forums and have not seen a complete guide to retrofitting a B and O AMP and then the center speaker into a F10 BMW.
Have both the AMP and the Center Speaker and looking for wiring diagrams and coding to make it work. I will of course modify any DIY and repost once complete. But wanted to see if anyone has links to threads of this being done. |
02-25-2018, 05:58 PM | #2 |
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Good luck on your project. I have been reading your thread on the NV retrofit for my M5.
If you are interested I have all 4 BO speakers for the doors from my old M5 in perfect condition. Looking to sell all four, do you need these? |
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03-04-2018, 12:28 PM | #3 |
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You will need a complete harness too since the connectors at the Amp are different (there is a bigger additional connector) and each speaker connector is a 3pin one instead of 2-pin (not sure why they did that), might find one on eBay.
Wiring diagrams you can find on newtis . info (remove spaces) website. |
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03-14-2018, 03:29 PM | #4 |
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Max Yao <elegps@gmail.com> has harness based on Vin and stereo version for about $500 plus shipping. So that part is done. Now have to decide to keep the BAVAUDIO speakers and Ghost Subs or replace all with B and O speakers. Also will have to source covers, then retrofit into existing door panels. Will post pics as I do retrofit. Keep the info coming for this DIY thread if you have performed the upgrade or know some info.
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03-18-2018, 07:51 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthr...3#post22932593 Thanks |
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04-02-2018, 05:36 PM | #6 |
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B and O retrofit COMPLETE! Took about 20 hours over weekend with the most excellent co removal and Install from a gentleman named Igor, who is on these forums. If you need some work done on your BMW and are in or near South Jersey by Cherry Hill, HE IS THE MAN For doing work guys!
Had to remove entire trunk, seats, interior, carpet, dash, radio, etc. As you have to run the B and O LED lights to All speakers on rear deck and in doors. Have to cut dash for center speaker and then run all the wires from amp to various places in car. I had the Harmon Stereo so it was plug and play on the 2 wire harnesses to amp, then have to run a bigger wire from battery to amp, over from original fuse box power. But just a swap basically. Then the one new harness plugs into AMP and is run to all of the speakers and then into a couple ECUs. Code the car, compliments of another forum member by deleting the 677 and adding B and O code. Program all the modules and POOF! B and O Music playing! |
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12-11-2020, 04:28 AM | #8 | |
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Hey im newark nj how can i be able research this guy im in the process of doing the same retrofit to my f10 m5 |
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12-11-2020, 08:04 AM | #9 |
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Band and Olufsen Retrofit
I been looking for the electrical wiring of "center dashboard speaker" for B&O or diagram and cant find it. Im trying to figure it seem like i cant find it, all im trying retrofit for my f10 m5 i made the hole for the speaker but is pretty much just seating in there not working any one could help me !!!!
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12-11-2020, 04:05 PM | #10 | |
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Here you go
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Last edited by addy27; 12-11-2020 at 04:46 PM.. |
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12-25-2020, 12:21 AM | #11 | |
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Hard part is the red and brown wires into the ECUS by passenger footwell |
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12-30-2020, 06:06 PM | #12 |
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im in the process of building a full harness for the B&O retrofit. Basically its that additional 32 pin connector on the B&O amplifier. 7 twisted pairs going to each tweeter in the car, and 2 individual wires one for LED lighting and one for center speaker signal all going from trunk to their respective ends. To keep it like-factory, each twisted pair for the door will terminate at the door connector and then another patch of twisted wires will go from door connector to the speaker. For the front, its 4 wires in each door, (2 for tweeters and 2 for the lights). While I'm doing this I'm also going the extra mic wire that is needed to go to the amp and have to get the dual out mic as well. So far i'm missing center speaker and 3 tweeters, have all the rest of the speakers and amp. Also adding ASD and already put together the harness for that and coded it. So..this is going to take a while
While im at it, im also planning to retrofit NBT EVO so have to lay down the OABR ethernet cable between ATM and Headunit..so a lotta wiring needing to be added to the car. |
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12-30-2020, 06:10 PM | #13 |
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BTW, for the F10, only the tweeters on the front door and the center dash speaker lights up. The rest of the door grills and rear deck grills don't light up. At least that is what I've read up thus far. The F01/F12/F13 and F01/F02 get all grills lit up..
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06-01-2021, 09:27 AM | #14 | |
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06-01-2021, 09:32 AM | #15 |
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HU has been coded already and I am getting the B&O display on HU with Equilizer. B&O Amp no sound go back to original Top Hifi Amp, Sound comes On.
236*1B connector goes straight into B&O Amp plug & play 236*2B Optical Connected 236*3B Connected HK AMP BO AMP ASD CONNECTION 1 17 FUSE 30B 159/F120 2 1 7 RADIO ON SIGNAL 3 23 4 FRONT LEFT HF 4 21 31 REAR LEFT HF 5 22 23 FRONT RIGHT HF 6 20 13 REAR RIGHT HF 7 NIL NIL 8 NIL NIL 9 7 3 FRONT LEFT MID 10 5 32 REAR LEFT MID 11 6 22 FRONT RIGHT MID 12 4 21 REAR RIGHT MID 10 HU-A42*1B 13 |
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06-08-2021, 11:54 AM | #16 |
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So, there is a couple of things. One, you should have made a new power wiring harness that goes directly from Battery module to B&O amp (not the same wires as the one used by HK Amp, as these need to be thicker wires). Also, the single wire that resides in the MOST connector on HK AMP, needs to move to (pin 17 I think) on B&O Amp. Without that thin wire, you'll not get the B&O Amp to turn on.
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02-28-2023, 06:03 AM | #17 |
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Hello,
I am hoping to pick the brains of some of the contributors to this thread! If I was to undertake this retrofit on a BMW F31 (3 series Touring) that already has the Harman Kardon set up / loom - how would I get around the additional plug on the B&O amp vs the HK? Retrofitting illuminated speaker grilles and the motorised centre speaker would not be relevant to my set up, as this wouldn’t be possible on the 3 series. So, could I simply replace the HK amp with B&O and change the HK speakers to B&O and connect the harness / MOST / power via my existing connectors? Then effectively “ignore” the additional plug and have a working system? Or is it not that simple and does the extra plug have connections beyond just the LED speaker lighting and also the motor operation of the centre speaker? Last edited by blau3er; 02-28-2023 at 06:21 AM.. |
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02-28-2023, 09:43 AM | #18 | |
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02-28-2023, 10:16 AM | #19 | |
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So does that mean the tweeters need to be de-pinned from the HK loom and added into the connector to the extra plug? Or is it still not that simple? EDIT - ignore this, as I think I have answered my own question, due to the current HK tweeters taking power from the mid channels. Does anyone know how to overcome the required loom for just the tweeters, without the need to buy a used B&O wiring loom? Last edited by blau3er; 02-28-2023 at 10:22 AM.. |
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02-28-2023, 01:43 PM | #20 |
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It is required to power them properly. Base audio HK tweeters have filters built into the wire so it can share signal from one wire. B&O does the filtering in the amp so you have to run separate wires.
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02-28-2023, 03:37 PM | #21 | |
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My F31 would have 5 tweeters in total (1 centre, 2 x front door and 2 x rear door). The F31 does not have tweeters in the rear shelf as it uses roof lining rear panel style speakers like the F11). I am obviously assuming that the headlining speakers would be taken care of via the main loom (as per HK) and would not require the extra loom to be powered. |
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06-19-2023, 02:41 PM | #22 |
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I have a quick question for those that have done this, if someone can help?
Is the connection from the amp to the microphone essential to this working? My car is a F31 – not a car that ever-had B&O as an option. I now have everything needed I think to get the work started and this is my final question. I’m not bothered if it doesn’t adjust the sound as the car increases speed, I just want to make sure that it wont stop the system from working! I understand about needing to swap over the pins from the HK most connector into the A236*3B connector and I understand how to make the required twisted pair connections from the same connector to the each one of the tweeters. I also know that I will need to upgrade the power cable to 10mm2 |
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