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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs After Detai: How Do You Keep The Scratches Away?
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      01-13-2013, 04:04 PM   #1
Chili Palmer
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After Detai: How Do You Keep The Scratches Away?

I'm going to spend about $1000 on a detail to my Jet Black 550. How do I keep the scratches away? My detail guy told me that anytime you touch something across the paint, (microfiber towel, sponge, etc.), you risk scratching the paint. My big problem is the car is black and everything shows up on black.

I thought about maybe having Opti-Guard applied after the detail to add some resistance to scratching, but my detail guy said that really wouldn't help.

What are my options?
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      01-15-2013, 06:59 PM   #2
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Opti guard would most definitely reduce marring. OG is more scratch resistant. However, the questions is this: is your detailer able to apply the coating without marring the paint.

For people like yourself, jet black should not be an option. I realize why people purchase solid black, but if you worry about imperfections, you'd be better off with something lighter and metallic.

I hope my post didn't come across too harsh.
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      01-16-2013, 06:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdekany View Post
Opti guard would most definitely reduce marring. OG is more scratch resistant. However, the questions is this: is your detailer able to apply the coating without marring the paint.

For people like yourself, jet black should not be an option. I realize why people purchase solid black, but if you worry about imperfections, you'd be better off with something lighter and metallic.

I hope my post didn't come across too harsh.
Believe me, I didn't want another black car, but my wife saw this car, (it was a CPO, and at the time there were no white CPOs anywhere for the price we paid for this car), and she wanted it. Now we've got it and I've got to make the best of it.
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      01-16-2013, 06:18 PM   #4
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In that case, have it Opti Coated.
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      01-19-2013, 10:10 PM   #5
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opti-coated
then google two bucket wash method with grit guards
invest in MF towels and Optimum No Rinse
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      01-20-2013, 11:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray_Panther View Post
opti-coated
then google two bucket wash method with grit guards
invest in MF towels and Optimum No Rinse
I'm still fuzzy on the no rinse method. This would work if the car is dirty from a regular no rain week. But if the car is dirty from a week's worth of rain wouldn't be better to rinse off the dirty water rather than to wash it then wipe it dry?

I was thinking about getting a water deionization set-up for rinsing the car off, drive it around the block to get most of the water off and then dry off the remaining dribbles. The less you touch the paint, the better, right?
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      01-20-2013, 02:57 PM   #7
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Problem is that there is still debris on the paint. Driving off will cause the remnant water to slide off. While it is sliding off it will trap debris/dirt and scratch. Swirls will form.

Best way is a proper car wash method. Check out gilmour foam gun for a regular water hose. As I said before invest in two buckets and grit guard and put some elbow grease into your car. You are paying a grand to make it new. Why not put a little effort and some chump change to keep it that way.

Weeks worth of rain, yes ONR still does wonders. Do a panel at a time. Caked on dirt/salt, then rinse off thoroughly before ONR or using a foam gun.
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      01-20-2013, 05:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray_Panther View Post
Problem is that there is still debris on the paint. Driving off will cause the remnant water to slide off. While it is sliding off it will trap debris/dirt and scratch. Swirls will form.

Best way is a proper car wash method. Check out gilmour foam gun for a regular water hose. As I said before invest in two buckets and grit guard and put some elbow grease into your car. You are paying a grand to make it new. Why not put a little effort and some chump change to keep it that way.

Weeks worth of rain, yes ONR still does wonders. Do a panel at a time. Caked on dirt/salt, then rinse off thoroughly before ONR or using a foam gun.
I reread my post and I forgot to include that after I wash the car with a mild carwash soap, then use the deionized water to rinse off the washed area.

By no means did I plan to just rinse off the dirty car with deionized water and leave it at that.
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      01-20-2013, 05:26 PM   #9
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Bwahaha. Seriously I was reading it and I was like why would be spend a grand on a detail to swirl the paint again!

But invest in a gilmour II foam gun. I think you would really be happy with it. I also like to use a leaf blower to dry the car.

Good luck mate.
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      01-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #10
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What all is being done for $1,000? The paint must be in horrific shape for it to warrant such a high detailing bill.
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      02-08-2013, 11:21 AM   #11
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I use my electric leaf blower to pre-dry the car after washing. Then finish up with nice clean and fluffy microfiber cloths and a good detail spray (I use Adams). The extra lubricity of the detail spray provides some extra protection in event there's a spec of schmutz lurking on the paint. And it smells nice too :-)
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      02-10-2013, 02:02 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by P1et View Post
What all is being done for $1,000? The paint must be in horrific shape for it to warrant such a high detailing bill.
From what I've found that's the going rate within a couple of hundred bucks. I wanted to see what the detailer has done before and not just a shot of couple of panels in a 3x3" picture in photo album, I want to see his prior work.

My paint was damaged by the dealership when I took in for a paint repair on the front bumper, (my car was a CPO that they said they had repainted the front bumper cap). When got the car home and saw it in the sunlight I was aghast that there were swirl marks and buffer trails all over the car. They said that they would take care of it, but I didn't want them to touch the car again. I should have gotten in contact with BMW corporate, but I waited too long.

The car has a haze that I can't seem to remove and now has buffer trails all over it. I want it done right and only one time. Plus this is a complete car detail inside and out, hence the cost.
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      02-10-2013, 02:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luigi524TD View Post
I use my electric leaf blower to pre-dry the car after washing. Then finish up with nice clean and fluffy microfiber cloths and a good detail spray (I use Adams). The extra lubricity of the detail spray provides some extra protection in event there's a spec of schmutz lurking on the paint. And it smells nice too :-)
I'm a big fan of Adam's detail spray and purchase it by the gallon.
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      02-10-2013, 06:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Palmer View Post
From what I've found that's the going rate within a couple of hundred bucks. I wanted to see what the detailer has done before and not just a shot of couple of panels in a 3x3" picture in photo album, I want to see his prior work.

My paint was damaged by the dealership when I took in for a paint repair on the front bumper, (my car was a CPO that they said they had repainted the front bumper cap). When got the car home and saw it in the sunlight I was aghast that there were swirl marks and buffer trails all over the car. They said that they would take care of it, but I didn't want them to touch the car again. I should have gotten in contact with BMW corporate, but I waited too long.

The car has a haze that I can't seem to remove and now has buffer trails all over it. I want it done right and only one time. Plus this is a complete car detail inside and out, hence the cost.
Makes sense. If the swirls marks are bad enough and they're over the entire vehicle, it can take some time and multiple steps with mutiple types of polishes to get it perfect again.
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      02-10-2013, 10:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray_Panther View Post
opti-coated
then google two bucket wash method with grit guards
invest in MF towels and Optimum No Rinse
+1
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