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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions Drain/replace coolant - how to drain?
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      01-05-2017, 08:22 PM   #23
vlam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipb View Post
Hi vlam- great to know! Thanks
How often do you recommend fuel injectors and plug? What's the difficulty level?
Thanks
Phil
Phil,

I would recommend plugs after 50K (in my case, it was just out of warranty, I have a 2012).

I got a drivetrain malfunction error coming on my way home from work while merging into traffic at WOT. Pulled over and limp home. I got multiples misfires (cyl 5 and 6). In searching through the web, injectors seems to be a problem with the N54 and 550i. I ordered plugs and injectors just in case. I decided to change both since I had everything apart. I guess I could have play around and tested changing the plugs only first but I find it more convenience to just change everything just to be sure (especially since it DIY) so I am only paying for parts. I find BMW parts to be on the cheap side compare to labor.

Changing the fuel injectors will require software for reprogramming of each injector. Cylinder #5 and #6 would be the hardest to get to (both injectors and sparkplug) since removing the air box and wiring harness will give you much better access. There is a tool to remove the injector, without the puller, you have to get creative. I removed mine without it but I didn't care about scratching the intake port with a pair of pliers. Not a lot of skills require and it's relative safe job as you are not under a vehicle. Just lots of patience.
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      01-05-2017, 08:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bin01123 View Post
Looking forward to the serpentine belt diy. Did you have to remove it to replace the water pump?

These are electric water pump so it is not tied to belt or pulley.

Water pump replacing is actually much easier than I expected. The thermostat is the hard part. Probably the most time consuming part in removing the water pump is removing the 4 bolts for the sway bar bracket. It helps to have an air tool. Once you swing the sway bar and power steering lines out of the way, the water pump is held with 3 bolts. These bolts are not reusable, so order new ones. I also replace both water pump inlet and outlet hose so that took more time. It not necessary but once again. I rather deal with all at once.

Instead of having my car on stands, I just drove it up to my rhino ramp. Being one the smaller side, I had no problem working underneath.

I will try to put something together for the belt when I get a chance to tackle the work.
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      01-05-2017, 10:50 PM   #25
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@vlam I think we're on the same boat. My 535 has about 56k on it. I did the following to the car so far.

-Spark Plugs (didn't need injectors)
-Transmission Fluid & Filter change
-Oil filter housing gasket (under warranty)
-Rear Differential Fluid change
-front and rear pads (under warranty)

Serpentine belt is next. I also had the walnut blasting done by a local INDY shop and they told me the intake wasn't that bad.
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      01-13-2017, 01:12 PM   #26
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I am curious about replacing the Serpentine Belt too. Is it necessary to remove the cooling fan?

Thanks.
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      04-18-2017, 08:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bin01123 View Post
I completed this job best I could over the weekend but we're going to need more information moving forward. I was able to remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant however I only got 5 liters out and the F10 535 holds 10 liters.

In order to remove the hose I needed to loosen the clamp and the torx screw pictured. (I believe it's a T6) After that I was able to remove the hose and drain the coolant.

I filled it back with BMW coolant and distilled water. 50/50 mix. I then used the coolant bleed procedure for the E90s. Again this method will only remove half of the coolant in the system but it's a start for now. If anyone else learns any new methods, please do share.
Any tips/tricks on removing this lower radiator hose? I'll be performing the coolant flush this weekend and was eyeing the location of this hose. From the looks of it, I don't think there's enough room to get my hands in there to remove the clamp and torx bolt. Suggestions?
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      10-01-2018, 05:13 AM   #28
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F10 525d Coolant bleed

Hi,

Last weekend I did my 525d coolant bleed as I installed an aux heater and had to swap a couple of hoses. I got roughly 5 liters of coolant out and refilled it lateron. Since the 525d does not have an electric coolant pump (besides the aux heater pump) I could only top off the expansian tank and run the car for a while and top it off.

That seems to work, but I still think there might be still air in the system as the needle on my coolant temp gauge does not point straight up. It is just little before.

Anyone tips on gettings this last bit of air out without doing the drain/refill with the vaccuum?

Thanks
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      10-01-2018, 11:00 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlam View Post
I got a little more coolant out when I changed out the water pump and thermostat. BTW.. The hose that most of you are removing is where the thermostat is. Removal and installing the thermostat is a big PITA on the 535.

I probably got more out because of the drain from the water pump. For those who wants to drain more out, disconnecting the water pump inlet hose isn't too hard. You do have to remove the under carriage cover.

Just a word of caution as I've learned while working on these BMW. Get yourself a battery charger. If your battery is low, you may not be able to do the coolant bleed procedure.

No doubt that there aren't too many DIYer on here. If anyone has questions on DIY, feel free to PM me.

So far, I've done the following.

1. Oil filter housing
2. Spark plugs
3. Fuel Injectors
4. Water pump and thermostat

Next on my list is the serpentine belt and brake pads. I just got all the parts.. Will wait for a free weekend.
why'd you change fuel injectors ?
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      10-04-2018, 10:38 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonobro View Post
why'd you change fuel injectors ?
Because car went into limp mode and excessive gas dumping out of my exhaust. Multiples misfire, #5 and #6.

Injectors were not very expensive so I did both the plugs and injectors. I could have tried to replace just the plugs first but didn't want risk having to pull things apart again. I don't have injector puller so injector I pull will have to be replaced anyway. If I recalled, total parts cost about $400.

That was about 2 1/2 years and 30K miles ago.
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      10-11-2018, 01:52 PM   #31
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I don't have battery charge, can I just turn on the car and do the bleeder?

Thanks






Quote:
Originally Posted by vlam View Post
I got a little more coolant out when I changed out the water pump and thermostat. BTW.. The hose that most of you are removing is where the thermostat is. Removal and installing the thermostat is a big PITA on the 535.

I probably got more out because of the drain from the water pump. For those who wants to drain more out, disconnecting the water pump inlet hose isn't too hard. You do have to remove the under carriage cover.

Just a word of caution as I've learned while working on these BMW. Get yourself a battery charger. If your battery is low, you may not be able to do the coolant bleed procedure.

No doubt that there aren't too many DIYer on here. If anyone has questions on DIY, feel free to PM me.

So far, I've done the following.

1. Oil filter housing
2. Spark plugs
3. Fuel Injectors
4. Water pump and thermostat

Next on my list is the serpentine belt and brake pads. I just got all the parts.. Will wait for a free weekend.
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      03-29-2019, 06:22 AM   #32
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Hi all - just popping in to this older thread to check in.

While the vehicle was in for other free (warranty) work a few years ago I paid for a coolant change. TIS says that filling with the vacuum apparatus was REQUIRED and I didn't want to mess around.

I'm coming up on a bunch of fluid changes and maintenance items DIY out-of-warranty and coolant came to mind again.

How many have DIYed coolant? How many used vacuum fill equipment and how many just did it like an E90? I don't think there are any bleeders/vents to open anywhere else on the system like on previous BMWs I've had so I'm wondering just how well it works out using the powered venting procedure alone.
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      04-12-2019, 09:52 PM   #33
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My 2011 BMW 535i has 173K miles. It is on original water pump which is incredible. The radiator exploded the other night while parked after driving....I was lucky. I am replacing every hose, radiator, and both aux radiators. Parts cost me $1480 using furious method search engine to look for cheapest parts. The car is in great shape and I replaced the suspension last year. I have replaced the coolant before. It sucks as mentioned before that there is no drain plug. I just loosened the lower hose and made a mess. I used the vacuum method to refill with the Schwaben tool. The tool is worth getting if you own any BMW as it makes it super easy to fill and check for leaks before filling.
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      04-13-2019, 10:40 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wjjklj View Post
My 2011 BMW 535i has 173K miles. It is on original water pump which is incredible. The radiator exploded the other night while parked after driving....I was lucky. I am replacing every hose, radiator, and both aux radiators. Parts cost me $1480 using furious method search engine to look for cheapest parts. The car is in great shape and I replaced the suspension last year. I have replaced the coolant before. It sucks as mentioned before that there is no drain plug. I just loosened the lower hose and made a mess. I used the vacuum method to refill with the Schwaben tool. The tool is worth getting if you own any BMW as it makes it super easy to fill and check for leaks before filling.
173K - nice! Which Schwaben tool exactly did you get?

I still find it interesting that so many talk about filling and using the electric pump venting method and that's it, but then so many also post about gurgling, even when they have mechanics do the work. There simply doesn't seem to be the number of vents required in the various locations in the system to do it the "old way" and TIS lists the vacuum fill method as the only method.

Annoying...
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      04-13-2019, 09:49 PM   #35
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Here is the tool I use to fill and check for leaks.
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      04-14-2019, 07:53 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wjjklj View Post
Here is the tool I use to fill and check for leaks.
Thanks! Added to my ECS shopping list. Looks pretty nifty, can probably be used in many circumstances, and will pay for itself in a single DIY coolant change.
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      08-31-2019, 09:10 AM   #37
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Bringing up an old post, but I just found this. My weekend project is water pump and thermostat on my ‘12 f10 N55.

I’ve seen some things online that say there’s a coolant drain plug on the block, but is there one on the N55? Also, everything I’ve seen references this nice little rad drain plug you can get to with a flat blade screwdriver. Pisses me off the N55 has the “fake” plug under the rad.

I tried loosening the sway bar bolts with 15mm 6-point but was unsuccessful... I couldn’t get them to budge. Bought a set of e-sockets to try today. Might go by Harbor Freight and get the $50 impact wrench if my weak a$$ can’t get those things loose.

Any other tips I need to know about??

John

Quote:
Originally Posted by vlam View Post
These are electric water pump so it is not tied to belt or pulley.

Water pump replacing is actually much easier than I expected. The thermostat is the hard part. Probably the most time consuming part in removing the water pump is removing the 4 bolts for the sway bar bracket. It helps to have an air tool. Once you swing the sway bar and power steering lines out of the way, the water pump is held with 3 bolts. These bolts are not reusable, so order new ones. I also replace both water pump inlet and outlet hose so that took more time. It not necessary but once again. I rather deal with all at once.

Instead of having my car on stands, I just drove it up to my rhino ramp. Being one the smaller side, I had no problem working underneath.

I will try to put something together for the belt when I get a chance to tackle the work.
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      08-31-2019, 09:45 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgulyas View Post
Bringing up an old post, but I just found this. My weekend project is water pump and thermostat on my ‘12 f10 N55.

I’ve seen some things online that say there’s a coolant drain plug on the block, but is there one on the N55? Also, everything I’ve seen references this nice little rad drain plug you can get to with a flat blade screwdriver. Pisses me off the N55 has the “fake” plug under the rad.

I tried loosening the sway bar bolts with 15mm 6-point but was unsuccessful... I couldn’t get them to budge. Bought a set of e-sockets to try today. Might go by Harbor Freight and get the $50 impact wrench if my weak a$$ can’t get those things loose.

Any other tips I need to know about??

John
Check the sway bar instructions for help. The E socket makes things easier. Just use/get a decently long breaker bar. They are tight and hard to turn.

I haven't DIYed a coolant change yet, but will be soon. The procedure also calls for a vacuum filling machine. ECS and others sell Schwaben-branded ones.

The official dealer procedure is remove the lower rad hose to drain, refill with the vacuum system.

I, too, am annoyed that useful things such as rad and block drains seem to have been omitted from the F10. There could be a block drain somewhere, but it's not mentioned in TIS at all.
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      12-26-2019, 06:24 PM   #39
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Found a way to drain the coolant without disconnecting hoses and leaking all over. I disconnected vent hose from expansion tank. I then got a dishwasher hose and ran to a 5 gallon bucket. I used the electric water pump to pump out most coolant. I then used a shopvac with the blowing mode to blow air in the coolant expansion tank top while electric water pump was running to remove more coolant. I then filled using schwaben vacuum pump.
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      12-27-2019, 07:11 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wjjklj View Post
Found a way to drain the coolant without disconnecting hoses and leaking all over. I disconnected vent hose from expansion tank. I then got a dishwasher hose and ran to a 5 gallon bucket. I used the electric water pump to pump out most coolant. I then used a shopvac with the blowing mode to blow air in the coolant expansion tank top while electric water pump was running to remove more coolant. I then filled using schwaben vacuum pump.
What volume of coolant did you get out with this technique?
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      12-27-2019, 03:06 PM   #41
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I got about 2 gallons out. It wasn't everything for sure as it still gurgled a little when using schwaben vacuum tool but I was able to pull a complete vacuum and refill with zero issues. I've refilled the coolant many times taking off bottom hose which sucks and makes a mess. I have replaced every hose, water pump, radiator in the past and have 179k on it. Still get 30mpg. F10 has been super solid. Hate that there is no drain on radiator, but this approach made much less mess.
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      02-12-2020, 11:58 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wjjklj View Post
Found a way to drain the coolant without disconnecting hoses and leaking all over. I disconnected vent hose from expansion tank. I then got a dishwasher hose and ran to a 5 gallon bucket. I used the electric water pump to pump out most coolant. I then used a shopvac with the blowing mode to blow air in the coolant expansion tank top while electric water pump was running to remove more coolant. I then filled using schwaben vacuum pump.
Any photos of what the vent hose to the expansion tank looks like for us n00bs?
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      02-12-2020, 12:16 PM   #43
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Here you go.
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      02-12-2020, 12:56 PM   #44
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Thank you! super helpful. Is there any instructions you guys used in how to refill using the schwaben tool?

You need an air compressor for that tool?

Last edited by Sylverlee; 02-12-2020 at 01:09 PM.. Reason: forgot to add a question
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