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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications BMS Stage 1 Check Engine Light (n63)
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      10-17-2015, 02:36 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badblack550xi
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Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post
Ya I'm having my buddy plug it in and check it later tonight. But what else could be possible issues?

Aggressive settings?
Highly doubt it sounds like a boost leak.
Actually I think it could be the work the exhaust shop did to my downpipes. They made some custom high flow cats.
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      10-17-2015, 06:06 PM   #46
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Ya I'm having my buddy plug it in and check it later tonight. But what else could be possible issues?

Aggressive settings?
Bro, I'm tempted to hire a private eye to get your address for me and send you an odb2 reader.Back in the day when I started modding my ws6 I would get CE lights all the time and had no fuckin idea what was wrong till another f-body owner convinced me to get a scanner, it was the most helpful tool I ever bought. If your going to keep modding your car you will need something like this and you won't depend on other people to help you figure things out, especially with this car.

Just sayin.....

Last edited by Teddylongtooth; 10-17-2015 at 06:08 PM.. Reason: Im regarded and can't splle
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      10-17-2015, 07:05 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth
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Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post
Ya I'm having my buddy plug it in and check it later tonight. But what else could be possible issues?

Aggressive settings?
Bro, I'm tempted to hire a private eye to get your address for me and send you an odb2 reader.Back in the day when I started modding my ws6 I would get CE lights all the time and had no fuckin idea what was wrong till another f-body owner convinced me to get a scanner, it was the most helpful tool I ever bought. If your going to keep modding your car you will need something like this and you won't depend on other people to help you figure things out, especially with this car.

Just sayin.....
Lmao I appreciate the help man, big time. I don't plan on modding the car more than stage 1 and downpipes but ya I will definitely be investing in an obd reader.

Im 90% sure it's a leak dealing with the downpipe work I had done. After the downpipe work, the car would pull harder but shifting from 2nd to 3rd I could feel a harsh hiccup in the upshift. Never felt it before having the downpipe work done.

I'm going to have the shop check it out for me.
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      10-18-2015, 10:25 AM   #48
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If your car has issues and youre just brushing it off or pointing fingers at mods, eventually youre going to have an expensive garage weight holding the house down. Spend the money and get a scanner of sort because you know even if its the exhaust guys fault, hes not going to pay, and youre going to be stuck without a car.
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      10-18-2015, 03:12 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenixMike
http://www.bavariantechnic.com/

If your car has issues and youre just brushing it off or pointing fingers at mods, eventually youre going to have an expensive garage weight holding the house down. Spend the money and get a scanner of sort because you know even if its the exhaust guys fault, hes not going to pay, and youre going to be stuck without a car.
Scanned the engine light and I got code p12a8 or p1288 and p12b6 . Any of you guys familiar with the code
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      10-19-2015, 07:57 AM   #50
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hEY GUys i got the drivertrain malfunction , as well while aceelerating around 80mph , and my 550 started shaking, so then i turnd the car off and on again the light went off , and it was fine, wth is going on ,
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      10-19-2015, 11:16 AM   #51
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hEY GUys i got the drivertrain malfunction , as well while aceelerating around 80mph , and my 550 started shaking, so then i turnd the car off and on again the light went off , and it was fine, wth is going on ,
You need to pull the codes
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      10-19-2015, 11:26 AM   #52
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hEY GUys i got the drivertrain malfunction , as well while aceelerating around 80mph , and my 550 started shaking, so then i turnd the car off and on again the light went off , and it was fine, wth is going on ,
High fuel pressure pump/ MAF
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      10-19-2015, 03:58 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badblack550xi
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Originally Posted by IBOOSTU View Post
hEY GUys i got the drivertrain malfunction , as well while aceelerating around 80mph , and my 550 started shaking, so then i turnd the car off and on again the light went off , and it was fine, wth is going on ,
High fuel pressure pump/ MAF
What would happen if the boost is set to +3.0 psi without adding race gas.
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      10-19-2015, 10:52 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post
Scanned the engine light and I got code p12a8 or p1288 and p12b6 . Any of you guys familiar with the code
Here's where you can find a list of the bmw codes
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...8&d=1363908210
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      10-20-2015, 12:24 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post
Scanned the engine light and I got code p12a8 or p1288 and p12b6 . Any of you guys familiar with the code
Here's where you can find a list of the bmw codes
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...8&d=1363908210
P1288 : Switching solenoid for air assisted injection valves bank 2 control circuit signal low

Can someone explain this to me in laymans terms.
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      10-20-2015, 01:33 PM   #56
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What would happen if the boost is set to +3.0 psi without adding race gas.
Every car is different. Too much boost with not enough octane will cause detonation... Knock sensors may pull timing, but if they don't, the next issue is typically cracked pistons/rings, spark plugs destroyed, or if you're super lucky, head gaskets, cracked block etc. Thankfully the BMW knock system is quite sensitive, but its not fool proof.
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      10-20-2015, 01:46 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenixMike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post
What would happen if the boost is set to +3.0 psi without adding race gas.
Every car is different. Too much boost with not enough octane will cause detonation... Knock sensors may pull timing, but if they don't, the next issue is typically cracked pistons/rings, spark plugs destroyed, or if you're super lucky, head gaskets, cracked block etc. Thankfully the BMW knock system is quite sensitive, but its not fool proof.
Would it cause my check engine light to come on ? This is the code I pulled up

P1288: Switching solenoid for air assisted injection valves bank 2 control circuit signal low.
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      10-21-2015, 12:17 AM   #58
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Checked the settings on the bms . Boost over stock was set to 2.75 (set it back to 2.25) and future use was set to 1 (set it to 0)

Car still jerks hard under heavy throttle and check engine remains.

T min and t max was not set at 1 and all the other settings were different values as well. (T map slew, maf offset, PID) .

Are the values all supposed to be set the same or just the values in the red box (as shown in installation guide below).
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      10-21-2015, 11:15 AM   #59
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      10-21-2015, 02:52 PM   #60
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Unfortunately im not familiar with the BMS products, and even with adjusting my car to +4.5 lbs on E85 with the E-tronic, ive never had any issues, lights or limp mode. Best bet would be call Terry or someone more knowledgable on the BMS products and see if the Stage II modifies any factory variables that may affect that specific sensor or cause that fault code... if he says no, then theres a chance its an unrelated failure, or a failure that was caused by another component. I dont have access to the BMW procedure charts for fault codes so I couldnt even tell you what sensors are affected.
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      10-21-2015, 06:47 PM   #61
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      10-21-2015, 06:48 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenixMike
Unfortunately im not familiar with the BMS products, and even with adjusting my car to +4.5 lbs on E85 with the E-tronic, ive never had any issues, lights or limp mode. Best bet would be call Terry or someone more knowledgable on the BMS products and see if the Stage II modifies any factory variables that may affect that specific sensor or cause that fault code... if he says no, then theres a chance its an unrelated failure, or a failure that was caused by another component. I dont have access to the BMW procedure charts for fault codes so I couldnt even tell you what sensors are affected.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FenixMike
Unfortunately im not familiar with the BMS products, and even with adjusting my car to +4.5 lbs on E85 with the E-tronic, ive never had any issues, lights or limp mode. Best bet would be call Terry or someone more knowledgable on the BMS products and see if the Stage II modifies any factory variables that may affect that specific sensor or cause that fault code... if he says no, then theres a chance its an unrelated failure, or a failure that was caused by another component. I dont have access to the BMW procedure charts for fault codes so I couldnt even tell you what sensors are affected.
I just have the bms stage 1. I found the boost over stock to be +2.75 instead of +2.25. Future use was set to 1 (m5 setting) and I set it to 0 for the n63.

All the other settings on my interface, (t min/max, tmap slew, PWM Cap/Min and PIDs) aren't set to the shown values that are in the guide. But these values don't have a red box around them like with boost over stock and future use so I don't know if they need to be the adjusted to match the guides values (see image below).


Check engine light gone, car drives good again, but doesn't feel as fast as I when I first installed the chip (it was running +2.75). Does +2.25 make that drastic difference in reduction of power from +2.75?
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      10-21-2015, 07:07 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post


Check engine light gone, car drives good again, but doesn't feel as fast as I when I first installed the chip (it was running +2.75). Does +2.25 make that drastic difference in reduction of power from +2.75?
1 lb of boost is about 13 horsepower on our vehicles, (1 atmosphere or 14.7 lbs of boost will technically double the output of your naturally aspirated horsepower level, which on our cars is about 225-250 rear wheel horsepower, giving it the 380-410 rear wheel horsepower seen in stock form at 11 lbs +/- of boost). The variables here are A ) can your turbos maintain that boost level, B ) are knock sensors pulling timing and/or boost due to lack of octane, increased heat or other factors, C ) you already hurt something and the car isnt picking it up IE spark plug, piston ring etc.

Short answer here is a half lb of boost is about 6-7 horsepower, it shouldnt make a world of difference. The thing you cannot overcome is the engines decision to override your input in order to save itself, which is why you should datalog what its doing and see if its pulling timing, if its lean, or if theres a problem that you cant see just by reading codes.
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      10-22-2015, 12:45 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenixMike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post


Check engine light gone, car drives good again, but doesn't feel as fast as I when I first installed the chip (it was running +2.75). Does +2.25 make that drastic difference in reduction of power from +2.75?
1 lb of boost is about 13 horsepower on our vehicles, (1 atmosphere or 14.7 lbs of boost will technically double the output of your naturally aspirated horsepower level, which on our cars is about 225-250 rear wheel horsepower, giving it the 380-410 rear wheel horsepower seen in stock form at 11 lbs +/- of boost). The variables here are A ) can your turbos maintain that boost level, B ) are knock sensors pulling timing and/or boost due to lack of octane, increased heat or other factors, C ) you already hurt something and the car isnt picking it up IE spark plug, piston ring etc.

Short answer here is a half lb of boost is about 6-7 horsepower, it shouldnt make a world of difference. The thing you cannot overcome is the engines decision to override your input in order to save itself, which is why you should datalog what its doing and see if its pulling timing, if its lean, or if theres a problem that you cant see just by reading codes.
My issue was that I bought the bms stage 1 used, from forum member Igor. I had told him to set it to default settings and then ship it to me .. Turns out boost was set to 2.75 and I was only on 93 octane. Glad i didn't drive my car that much with it set to 2.75.

Took the car for a drive this morning and I drove it around in D , comfort mode instead of the usual DS and power gain feels much more noticeable. I guess the chip takes a little while to adapt.
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      10-22-2015, 01:59 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zer0Cool92 View Post
My issue was that I bought the bms stage 1 used, from forum member Igor. I had told him to set it to default settings and then ship it to me .. Turns out boost was set to 2.75 and I was only on 93 octane. Glad i didn't drive my car that much with it set to 2.75.

I thought the new default psi on stage1 is 3.0?
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      10-22-2015, 04:19 PM   #66
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I thought the new default psi on stage1 is 3.0?
Not that I know of. Last I checked 2.25 is default on pump gas and 3.00 if you're running a race gas mix
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