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08-01-2015, 01:58 AM | #1 |
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Does anyone have suggestions on how to lower my oil temps? I'm not having problems on my 535 with temps. Is it safe to run oil temps under 240 degrees?
I have the OEM oil cooler in my right fender on my F10, but was wondering if I added the heat exchanger that comes on the m sport versions would assist. I'm thinking yes, but don't know anyone who has ran that combo. I know there's the BMS oil thermostat and about the mod where reverse your stock one. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-F10-535..._3.0L/ES24024/
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08-01-2015, 10:17 PM | #2 | |
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My past history with domestic cars I always dialed them in to run at 180-190 degrees for maximum performance, but the software available is so much easier to configure versus the BMW stuff so I really cant give you a good answer, and ive found when I have similar questions relating to things im "used" to changing on other vehicles, I typically dont find a good source for information on those things. Maybe I just need to go all redneck on my car and modify it the old school way to see what happens
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08-01-2015, 10:50 PM | #3 |
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Thanks FenixMike I'm trying find what oil temp emissions levels are too. Also, what's the safest/lowest oil temp allowed without causing engine damage. I know I get better performance when the car is around 200 degrees I can literally feel the difference. I also understand that warming your car up while parked especially for turbos is damaging. I understand it as driving around slowly and quickly getting your engine up to operating temperatures will give both your turbos and engine longevity.
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08-02-2015, 10:04 AM | #4 |
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U know back in my import days on my LSTurbo Integra we use to add royal purple which lowered the oil temp a few degrees. But than again a had an aftermarket intercooler as well as a Koyo aluminum radiator So Maybe with that full upgrade engine temperatures dropped big time! I had all the autometer gauges installed So I knew I was getting a pretty good readout.
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08-02-2015, 11:04 AM | #5 | |
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Im in the same boat and would love for my car to run significantly cooler (especially since I know it CAN, its just not programmed to) but would hate to start causing problems.
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08-02-2015, 11:06 AM | #6 |
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I'll ask GSR guys if maybe it's just of matter of flashing instead of hardware.
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08-03-2015, 10:09 AM | #8 |
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The fan is pulse width modulated so it can slow down or speed up as necessary, and if the computer feels its running too cool, it can slow down the water pump to compensate... while a higher energy fan may cool more, you also need to make sure the relays and electrical are up to the task of taking on a fan requiring more power as well, ive watched relay packs melt in AZ since its always on with AC, which is year round here.
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08-04-2015, 05:59 AM | #9 |
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Along the lines of what everyone else is saying...... You are assuming that the car, as equipped, is incapable of maintaining the oil temps you want. It may be running them where you see quite on purpose (whether you like it or not).
My F10 is the "hot climate version" and although not M sport it has the heat exchanger you refer to. Remember that it is a heat exchanger - heat can flow from the coolant to the oil too so if the ECU is running the coolant hot it will bring up the oil temp. In warmer summer weather, even cruising on the highway with no AC on, I'll still see oil temps closer to 120C, but they always go exactly to the same place on the temp gauge and stay there precisely. It looks controlled to me, not like a situation where the installed oil cooling equipment can't keep up. It doesn't creep up even further in high load or stop and go conditions etc. |
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08-06-2015, 07:48 AM | #10 | |
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08-07-2015, 12:22 PM | #11 | ||
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08-08-2015, 02:35 PM | #12 |
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I know the Dinan stuff speeds up the water pump for that purpose, but I dont know if the PCM can change the target coolant temperature or not on these cars. 230-238 degrees is really the sweet spot most auto manufacturers target for optimum combustion for emissions purposes, and AJ was telling me all the German companies are going emissions crazy to try and get them clean burning. With the Domestic stuff, I can just change the target temperature via cooling fans and such (or the point at which they start to try and cool the engine), but they all have belt driven water pumps so the actual ability to change the impeller speed isnt an option for me. Id prefer all my vehicles run at 185-195 degrees, but I havent even looked into tuning on the BMWs other than whatever AJ tells me.
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08-09-2015, 01:05 PM | #13 |
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GSR Autosport informed me that it can't be done programmatically. They're working on a cooling mod that will hopefully be available soon.
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08-09-2015, 01:53 PM | #14 |
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Im guessing it wouldnt be too difficult to find the operational input/output range of the factory water pump and build a controller similar to the boost controllers that increases pump voltage while reporting to the PCM that it is unchanged so it doesnt throw codes, just have to figure out what other issues running the vehicle cooler would cause, if any. Quite often vehicles wont come out of open loop until they reach desired operating temperature, which if that is at the 230-238 degrees most are designed to run at, running it cooler would likely result in poor fuel economy and driveability until it decides to go into closed loop. The dawn of computer controlled vehicles that were "smart" really started around OBD II in 1995ish where you could no longer just toss a 160 degree thermostat in a car and have it make more power, now that generally causes more issues since 158 degrees is where many vehicles come out of open loop so 178 is more the desired thermostat temperature. With not being able to edit BMW computers (or even read the data for that matter), id have no idea where to start othe than trial and error, watching fuel trims, and seeing if any other sensors dramatically change... But im also part of the "if it aint broke, dont fix it" crew as long as I have a warranty
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08-22-2015, 06:51 PM | #15 |
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Some guys in hk also try Evans waterless coolant
It is like drug taking and not easy to go back. I have read the pros and cons in the internet...... |
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08-22-2015, 07:02 PM | #16 |
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Unfortunately it still comes back to regardless of what you use to make the engine "cooler", it will still compensate by slowing the water pump down to keep it at operating range. I dont think these cars have any issue keeping themselves cool, its just the programming that does so.
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08-23-2015, 07:37 PM | #17 | |
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