[tomegun]

I apologize; I wasn't clear enough earlier. The Adjuster called me and told me that they are at more than $35,000 in damage after taking the car apart more. He then went on to tell me that the Nevada law says that if damage to a car is equal to or more than 65% of the value of the car the car must be totaled. At that time he didn't know what the value of the car was - he asked me to send him a list of all the options so they can do whatever it is they do to determine the value of the car. At that point they will figure out if it is below or above 65% of the value and make the call to total it or not.

My understanding of multiple security deposits is that they are something I would get back in this situation which brings me to the response to the other post...

...the more I think about this the more I get pissed and things like potentially losing my security deposit, my wife missing a day of work, the $825 I just dropped for registration on a car we may never drive again (in this case, the prorated amount of the registration is substantial AND it cannot get transferred to another car for a while if we have to order again), potentially paying for a rental if/when we reach the max the insurance company will pay, etc. are all added up.

I was told we should get a call when the police report is finished, but we haven't heard anything yet. This is important to me because I am not naturally a trusting person and until it is finished the cop could do anything. It should be pretty straight forward - my wife hit the other car in the passenger door and then hit a pole. The point of impact should clearly indicate the other driver was attempting a U-turn. It is impossible for things to turn out the way they did if the driver was making a regular left turn...and there is a no U-turn sign so what he was doing was illegal. What you can't see in the picture above is the damage to the driver's door on my wife's car. It is mostly paint damage, but check out the mirror in the picture. My wife hit him and then his car was side to side with her for a second before she went into the pole. Being side to side is what must have caused the door and mirror damage.

The informational paperwork the cop gave us at the accident had the other driver's insurance company and policy number listed. I would hope the cop checked that before putting it on the sheet - I know for a fact he checked ours because he questioned it since it was recently changed from the X3 (I actually had to pull up proof it was changed on my cell phone).

[Grover432]

Originally Posted by tomegun

I apologize; I wasn't clear enough earlier. The Adjuster called me and told me that they are at more than $35,000 in damage after taking the car apart more. He then went on to tell me that the Nevada law says that if damage to a car is equal to or more than 65% of the value of the car the car must be totaled. At that time he didn't know what the value of the car was - he asked me to send him a list of all the options so they can do whatever it is they do to determine the value of the car. At that point they will figure out if it is below or above 65% of the value and make the call to total it or not.

My understanding of multiple security deposits is that they are something I would get back in this situation which brings me to the response to the other post...

...the more I think about this the more I get pissed and things like potentially losing my security deposit, my wife missing a day of work, the $825 I just dropped for registration on a car we may never drive again (in this case, the prorated amount of the registration is substantial AND it cannot get transferred to another car for a while if we have to order again), potentially paying for a rental if/when we reach the max the insurance company will pay, etc. are all added up.

I was told we should get a call when the police report is finished, but we haven't heard anything yet. This is important to me because I am not naturally a trusting person and until it is finished the cop could do anything. It should be pretty straight forward - my wife hit the other car in the passenger door and then hit a pole. The point of impact should clearly indicate the other driver was attempting a U-turn. It is impossible for things to turn out the way they did if the driver was making a regular left turn...and there is a no U-turn sign so what he was doing was illegal. What you can't see in the picture above is the damage to the driver's door on my wife's car. It is mostly paint damage, but check out the mirror in the picture. My wife hit him and then his car was side to side with her for a second before she went into the pole. Being side to side is what must have caused the door and mirror damage.

The informational paperwork the cop gave us at the accident had the other driver's insurance company and policy number listed. I would hope the cop checked that before putting it on the sheet - I know for a fact he checked ours because he questioned it since it was recently changed from the X3 (I actually had to pull up proof it was changed on my cell phone).

I don't think the adjuster can argue the car is worth much less than what you paid for it 3 weeks ago so the 65% rule means the car can sustain $40,000 in damage before they write it off. At $35,000 you are already pretty close and if they haven't identified every damaged part and labour cost for repair, it's possible this car will be written off. I checked my car's black book wholesale value in November, the day before i picked it up and it showed a value $5,000 less than I was paying for it which is rediculous as you'd never be able to find a used 2013 with no miles on it for sale at that value.

I hope the damage value goes up and they write the car off and give you $60k for it so you can start over. As to fault, if the other car turned or u turned such that it crossed the path of straight line traffic then unless your wife was speeding, where I come from, this accident will be 100% the other driver's fault.

[tomegun]

Originally Posted by Grover432

...unless your wife was speeding...

I'm not sure how fast she was going (she doesn't remember), but without a calibrated speed gun I don't see how that could be an issue. Collisions, even at a relatively low speed, are pretty violent.

[Piers]

35k to fix that damage? that is absolutely ridiculous!!!!

[ezmaass]

You'd be surprised how much damage lurks below what looks like something less major. Keep in mind that it's considerably more expensive to repair a car than build one in an automated factory. So yeah, I can believe $35k+ in damage... especially at BMW part prices and labor of a higher end shop.

In a case like this I'd prefer to total the car. It'll likely never drive the same, and why should you have a not-quite-right BMW from the start? Get it totaled and replace it.

[Luminor513]

Hopefully the insurance company totals it and you can start fresh with a new F10. Glad nobody was hurt. Goodluck with your insurance company.

[ezmaass]

To put things in perspective, the headlight assemblies (after a quick check online) appear to be over a thousand per piece... So you're talking several thousand just in parts for the lights. The body work is obviously extensive (front end, quarter panels, hood, driver door, etc), and we can only imagine what's lurking in the engine bay. All airbags deployed. It'll be totaled. A shame but likely true.

[tomegun]

The sales manager told me to call their body shop and USAA to tell them that I don't want my wife in that car again. He would have called their body shop himself but they were closed today.

It may be cheaper at another shop but in this case, and really all cases involving a BMW I have, I want the best shop fixing it.

[Grover432]

Originally Posted by tomegun

I'm not sure how fast she was going (she doesn't remember), but without a calibrated speed gun I don't see how that could be an issue. Collisions, even at a relatively low speed, are pretty violent.

The event data recorder will tell police how fast she was driving and how hard she braked before impact. This has noting to do with whether the car will be fixed or written off though - just who gets dinged for the accident - likely the other driver crossing traffic.

[tomegun]

The police report is complete. It lists the other driver at fault. This is what I expected, but I never take anything for granted.

[tomegun]

Anyone know the average amount a car depreciates when you drive it off the lot? I found it could be as high as 30%.

[crmgr]

Feel your pain. Glad everyone came out OK. A girl rear ended my 535 a couple of years ago when I was stopped in back-up on the freeway. That resulted in over $10K in damages, but nothing like you're facing. One thing I did find out however, is that more insurance companies ( mine was State Farm ) require that the body shop first look for "like new parts" before ordering new from the manufacturer. That means the shop first scans the bone yards looking for say a door. Inventory is all computerized, so it's not labor intensive on the part of the body shop. I would make sure your shop is using all new parts. That will bump up the cost and help carry you over the approx. $40K threshold.

[Grover432]

Just driving down Hwy 111 in Palm Desert, CA and a flatbed passes by with a white F10 M5 that has the back end caved in. I don't understand how this happens on a clear, dry flat road?? Where I live it is -50C (with the windchill) and the roads are icy and rutted. I can see rear end accidents there, but in Palm Springs?? I don't get it!

[BMWJester5oS]

From what i've seen, the higher the MSRP on the vehicle, the greater the depreciation during the first two years..... As a general rule of thumb, from what my dealer friends and auction buyers tell me, 20% is to be expected during the first year /and or directly after purchase & registration......

[BMWJester5oS]

Manheim MMR on a 2013 535xi (my car) MSRP $67 K....

[Grover432]

Originally Posted by BMWJester5oS

From what i've seen, the higher the MSRP on the vehicle, the greater the depreciation during the first two years..... As a general rule of thumb, from what my dealer friends and auction buyers tell me, 20% is to be expected during the first year /and or directly after purchase & registration......

Considering you can get 10% off MSRP on a new car, I'd suspect depreciation is more than 20% off MSRP in the first year. Most people lease or finance through BMW which offers preferential rates. If you buy in the aftermarket, you usually have a higher finance rate, so people look at the monthly payment on a new car from the dealer in the first year as preferential, which dumps the value of a newly purchased car.

[BMWJester5oS]

Actually, when financing my car, (May 13) many credit unions were offering much better rates than BMW NA Finance. At the time, BMW FS was at 2.99 on new cars (at least where i was shopping) I got 1.89% at my Federal Credit Union....

And i would agree with you that 20% depreciation is low on a BMW the first year. Most Euro imports get hit hard the first two years....

[tomegun]

I guess I need to know what it would be nine days after driving it off the lot. Is the 20% instant? I can't even find values for used 2014 with 400 miles on it.

[billiebob]

This thread made me happy geico paid me 1k more than I paid at the dealer for my 2011 328, and this was after 10 months of driving and 7500 miles.

Good luck getting it totaled! And happy new year!

[JBHall]

Brought my 2011 550 in today for service under warranty. The shop (dealer) called several hours later to report that the technician driving my car to determine the problem was broadsided by another vehicle. Very apologetic, but it could be up to 2 mos until I get my car back! (new door and quarterpanel - they don't believe suspension damage) Yes, they will pay for a loaner, but I assume the damage will be substantial. How do I negotiate for depreciation? The car only had 30k miles on it. How to protect myself here?

[Grover432]

Originally Posted by JBHall

Brought my 2011 550 in today for service under warranty. The shop (dealer) called several hours later to report that the technician driving my car to determine the problem was broadsided by another vehicle. Very apologetic, but it could be up to 2 mos until I get my car back! (new door and quarterpanel - they don't believe suspension damage) Yes, they will pay for a loaner, but I assume the damage will be substantial. How do I negotiate for depreciation? The car only had 30k miles on it. How to protect myself here?

Forget that - I'd like to know how a door and quarter panel takes 2 months to fix?

[BMWJester5oS]

I would think the 20% ding would be instant... Figure it like this; Dealers offer 7%-10% off right away. So who would buy a pre-owned 400-1000 mile car for just about the cost of a car that was never Titled....

It's a tough situation.... I would press hard on the other guys insurance company for diminished value, and a lot of it... Here's the only data i could find on Manheim for any 2014 5 Series at all....

Glad to hear the cars safety features preformed well and your wife is ok....

Originally Posted by tomegun

I guess I need to know what it would be nine days after driving it off the lot. Is the 20% instant? I can't even find values for used 2014 with 400 miles on it.