[bensk987]

Hi all,

I recently replaced my shocks all round with Bilstein B12's. The front right shock was totally gone and the car rattled pretty bad. I only ordered the shocks and springs and had a local indy install them.

Anyway the front end still rattles bad over bumps so I am going to replace the strut mounts but I am guessing that as the car is 10yo there is a good chance other bushings have gone.

Has anyone got any advice on what I should be replacing (or expect to replace) with regards to bushings on the front end?

The second question I have is are the top strut mounts something that I don't need to go OEM on? I see bilstein makes a version as well as vaico and sachs etc, is there a reputable aftermarket brand that anyone could recommend for the struts and bushings?

Thanks

[Unspec]

What top strut mounts? The F10 doesn't have a bushing in the top strut mount - it's just a piece of metal and a spring pad.

[benski888]

As it has been explained to me the rubber / bearing in the centre becomes flogged out resulting in movement and rattle

[Delerium]

Originally Posted by bensk987

Hi all,

I recently replaced my shocks all round with Bilstein B12's. The front right shock was totally gone and the car rattled pretty bad. I only ordered the shocks and springs and had a local indy install them.

Anyway the front end still rattles bad over bumps so I am going to replace the strut mounts but I am guessing that as the car is 10yo there is a good chance other bushings have gone.

Has anyone got any advice on what I should be replacing (or expect to replace) with regards to bushings on the front end?

The second question I have is are the top strut mounts something that I don't need to go OEM on? I see bilstein makes a version as well as vaico and sachs etc, is there a reputable aftermarket brand that anyone could recommend for the struts and bushings?

Thanks

I had a similiar issue after installing some springs. The driver side started consistently squeaking so I ended up replacing the strut mount with an OEM part which that fixed it.

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by benski888

As it has been explained to me the rubber / bearing in the centre becomes flogged out resulting in movement and rattle

The rubber bushing in the center is what the damper rod bolts to, and isolates it from the chassis.

If it wore out I guess it could make a rattling noise over bumps, but I would think over something like a speed bump it would make a very easily distinguishable thump when the suspension either compresses, rebounds, or both. With brand new and much stiffer dampers, I would think this would get much worse/louder if it is the source of your noise.

[Blue Angel]

A common source of higher pitched suspension rattles are the sway bar end links. Sometimes manually rocking the car from side to side can cause these links to click, indicating they need replacement. Otherwise, disconnecting one end of a link will allow you to check both joints. They should be tight and have some amount of resistance.

Note: to disconnect a sway bar end link you'll need to jack both front or rear wheels off the ground at the same time to make sure the sway bar is not loaded.

[bensk987]

Thanks for all the feedback. I pulled the plastic protective cap off my LHS strut and was welcomed with a black rubber powder so I guess that confirms that the rubber has gone.

I have ordered replacements through FCP so will install them and then see what else rattles after that.

BlueAngel thanks for info on sway bar end links, I'll take a look at them when I have the wheels off

[Blue Angel]

You're welcome! Let us know what you find when you get it all apart.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by bensk987

Thanks for all the feedback. I pulled the plastic protective cap off my LHS strut and was welcomed with a black rubber powder so I guess that confirms that the rubber has gone.

I have ordered replacements through FCP so will install them and then see what else rattles after that.

BlueAngel thanks for info on sway bar end links, I'll take a look at them when I have the wheels off

Those mounts are not meant to be re-used. Also, same for the bolts.

On the R&R, torque those bolts to spec. Be careful not to over tighten bolts.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by John H.

Those mounts are not meant to be re-used. Also, same for the bolts.

On the R&R, torque those bolts to spec. Be careful not to over tighten bolts.

Top mounts should be fine to reuse, no? KW reuses them for all of their F10 applications.

The bolts can be reused. BMW suggests them to be replaced because they come with integrated locktite. Just clean up the old locktite, apply some fresh, and you can reuse them for the life of the car. That said, yes do not overtorque them since the aluminum top hat strips very easily.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Top mounts should be fine to reuse, no? KW reuses them for all of their F10 applications.

The bolts can be reused. BMW suggests them to be replaced because they come with integrated locktite. Just clean up the old locktite, apply some fresh, and you can reuse them for the life of the car. That said, yes do not overtorque them since the aluminum top hat strips very easily.

True, with old bolts. Can be difficult to line up everything on re-install/re-use. Also, I would suggest updating to the more recent torx bolts, if you don't have them.

Sachs make mounts. Last I remember, they were $50, ea. Hard to find though.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by John H.

True, with old bolts. Can be difficult to line up everything on re-install/re-use. Also, I would suggest updating to the more recent torx bolts, if you don't have them.

Sachs make mounts. Last I remember, they were $50, ea. Hard to find though.

I went fuck it and just timerserted all 6 holes when swapping them onto my KW's.

Edit: Time-sert, not timerserted

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by Unspec

timerserted

?

Autocorrect? Lol

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

?

Autocorrect? Lol

Nah, just a typo.

Timesert*

[Blue Angel]

Gotcha! 👍

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Top mounts should be fine to reuse, no? KW reuses them for all of their F10 applications.

The bolts can be reused. BMW suggests them to be replaced because they come with integrated locktite. Just clean up the old locktite, apply some fresh, and you can reuse them for the life of the car. That said, yes do not overtorque them since the aluminum top hat strips very easily.

Well.....

On the updated strut top mounts the hole are untapped and the bolts tap them the first time. I believe I've seen it written that beyond two tightens you should not reuse the top mounts. Lots of "single use" stuff going on with all this aluminum in these cars. It's frustrating, but I usually just follow directions and replace it. Especially when it's in brakes, suspension, etc...

Lots of people say "I had no problems". Then you see other posts where the rear shock bottom bolt simply broke on the highway. Related? Maybe? By the time the "problems" crop up, the vehicle owner (or next vehicle owner) may not associate the "problem" with the "short cut" anymore.

For myself, personally, when I did my KWs it was far easier (and not very expensive when using places like FCP) to get new hats and bolts all around. This let me build my KWs on the workbench in advance of even starting the work, and without needing spring compressors and crap to disassemble the old parts which I have stored away "just in case".

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Surly73

Well.....

On the updated strut top mounts the hole are untapped and the bolts tap them the first time. I believe I've seen it written that beyond two tightens you should not reuse the top mounts. Lots of "single use" stuff going on with all this aluminum in these cars. It's frustrating, but I usually just follow directions and replace it. Especially when it's in brakes, suspension, etc...

Lots of people say "I had no problems". Then you see other posts where the rear shock bottom bolt simply broke on the highway. Related? Maybe? By the time the "problems" crop up, the vehicle owner (or next vehicle owner) may not associate the "problem" with the "short cut" anymore.

For myself, personally, when I did my KWs it was far easier (and not very expensive when using places like FCP) to get new hats and bolts all around. This let me build my KWs on the workbench in advance of even starting the work, and without needing spring compressors and crap to disassemble the old parts which I have stored away "just in case".

It's not an updated top mount thing. A lot of holes come untapped from the factory and get tapped by the bolts, it's why so many bolts are self tappers. It sounds like the single use part is thread failure and not really a functional part failure, so just timerserting it from the get go might be a solid solution for those who don't want to shell out the money for OEM top mounts.

IIRC the rear bolt breaking on the rear shock is due to not properly torquing the bolt in and introducing excessive fatigue stress.

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by Unspec

IIRC the rear bolt breaking on the rear shock is due to not properly torquing the bolt in and introducing excessive fatigue stress.

Can't know for sure without looking at the fracture signature of the bolt, but what we know suggests an under torqued bolt could have been responsible.