[RJV3]

I just pulled the trigger on the Bavsound stage 1 upgrade and ghost subs. Installed everything myself. I'm very early into the 20 hour break in period, but already find myself adjusting my eq regularly. The revenant pro Amp ships in May.... Can't wait for that. By then my speakers will be broken in and ready for that amp. I didn't add sound deadener to the doors or the sub housing since I knew I had time for the Amp to come in.
First opinion is the sound quality is improved and improving everyday. I plan on adding the sound deadener in May. What I am missing is the option to get more bass for those intense 70 mph highway ride sessions where you let your music rip...... And with that I miss my 12" Kicker solo baric I used to have in my old Honda. Had it matched with a Rockford 1000 watt mono D Amp and a 1 farad capacitor. 5 way speakers for the doors and rear deck.

I'm reading all the posts and I'm leaning toward a powered sub like the RF in the Op page. What I am not clear on is what everyone is doing regarding adding a capacitor or how they are addressing the car alternator charging the battery. Are you guys upgrading those?

Since the bavsound route was plug and play, I was convinced I didn't have to worry about a capacitor or alternator upgrade. But adding a trunk sub? Any input is greatly appreciated.

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by RJV3

I just pulled the trigger on the Bavsound stage 1 upgrade and ghost subs. Installed everything myself. I'm very early into the 20 hour break in period, but already find myself adjusting my eq regularly. The revenant pro Amp ships in May.... Can't wait for that. By then my speakers will be broken in and ready for that amp. I didn't add sound deadener to the doors or the sub housing since I knew I had time for the Amp to come in.
First opinion is the sound quality is improved and improving everyday. I plan on adding the sound deadener in May. What I am missing is the option to get more bass for those intense 70 mph highway ride sessions where you let your music rip...... And with that I miss my 12" Kicker solo baric I used to have in my old Honda. Had it matched with a Rockford 1000 watt mono D Amp and a 1 farad capacitor. 5 way speakers for the doors and rear deck.

I'm reading all the posts and I'm leaning toward a powered sub like the RF in the Op page. What I am not clear on is what everyone is doing regarding adding a capacitor or how they are addressing the car alternator charging the battery. Are you guys upgrading those?

Since the bavsound route was plug and play, I was convinced I didn't have to worry about a capacitor or alternator upgrade. But adding a trunk sub? Any input is greatly appreciated.

I haven't upgraded anything relating to a capacitor/the alternator, but, as you can tell from my earlier comments, there are plenty here that know a lot more than me about whether that'll actually be necessary!

IIRC, Bavsound told me the Revenant Pro is "plug and play" but it needs to be powered directly by the battery not through the plug and play wiring harness. Not a big ordeal since the battery is in the trunk, but just be prepared to have to run that power and ground wire. Bavsound includes all the wires in the "plug and play" kit.

Since you have the ghost sub upgrade, I'd withhold any trunk sub plans until you get that Revenant Pro installed. With that extra power to the upgraded underseats I wouldn't be surprised if you'll feel like there's plenty of bass for everyday listening. I've been impressed with the Match amp and my stock underseat subs so far, made a huge difference. They don't slam/boom like a separate sub but it's a lot of bass.

Just this last weekend, actually, I installed door components and it was recommended that I power my Match directly to my battery instead of through the small gauge power wire that comes through the wiring harness. So I did that. It made me remember that comment from Bavsound about the Revenant also being powered by the battery - it seems that an upgraded amp and stock speakers is fine with the tiny power wire that feeds through the wiring harness but in order to feed upgraded speakers the amp needs a thicker gauge wire = direct to battery...but that's just me trying to make sense of things

[RJV3]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

I haven't upgraded anything relating to a capacitor/the alternator, but, as you can tell from my earlier comments, there are plenty here that know a lot more than me about whether that'll actually be necessary!

IIRC, Bavsound told me the Revenant Pro is "plug and play" but it needs to be powered directly by the battery not through the plug and play wiring harness. Not a big ordeal since the battery is in the trunk, but just be prepared to have to run that power and ground wire. Bavsound includes all the wires in the "plug and play" kit.

Since you have the ghost sub upgrade, I'd withhold any trunk sub plans until you get that Revenant Pro installed. With that extra power to the upgraded underseats I wouldn't be surprised if you'll feel like there's plenty of bass for everyday listening. I've been impressed with the Match amp and my stock underseat subs so far, made a huge difference. They don't slam/boom like a separate sub but it's a lot of bass.

Just this last weekend, actually, I installed door components and it was recommended that I power my Match directly to my battery instead of through the small gauge power wire that comes through the wiring harness. So I did that. It made me remember that comment from Bavsound about the Revenant also being powered by the battery - it seems that an upgraded amp and stock speakers is fine with the tiny power wire that feeds through the wiring harness but in order to feed upgraded speakers the amp needs a thicker gauge wire = direct to battery...but that's just me trying to make sense of things

I had a feeling a little more was going to be required in order to get the sound I am looking for in the plug and play kit. So I have to power that new revanent pro Amp with the battery directly. I'm pretty sure it's probably a good idea to get a new battery while I'm at it.

So on the list is to add sound deadener to the door panels, under the subwoofers and the housing, run power wire from battery to Amp. Keep you posted once that Amp is in.

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by RJV3

I had a feeling a little more was going to be required in order to get the sound I am looking for in the plug and play kit. So I have to power that new revanent pro Amp with the battery directly. I'm pretty sure it's probably a good idea to get a new battery while I'm at it.

So on the list is to add sound deadener to the door panels, under the subwoofers and the housing, run power wire from battery to Amp. Keep you posted once that Amp is in.

Fwiw, I'm really glad I went with Match instead of Revenant. Tuning has been more "interesting" than "intimidating" for me, and if you're considering an additional sub you might be very grateful to have an amp you can adjust. What I don't know is how much better the Revenant sounds than my rookie tune lol

[RJV3]

As an update, I contacted Bavsound today and sales rep replied the Revenant Pro amps will be shipping at the end of the the month!. Can't wait to get the amp and take that bad boy for a spin. Keep you guys posted once it arrives.

[RJV3]

Ok so being that I am changing the audio system, I had a couple of questions for the group here.

In preparation for the amp install, I ordered 36 square feet of sound deadening material.
Going to apply to the door panels, but had a question on the 8" subs. The enclosure is pretty shallow, so would i necessarily need to add the sound deadening material to the inside of the enclosure?
Wrap the enclosure itself? Or skip it entirely? Right now at certain high volumes I can hear the sub bottoming out. I'm also pushing the HK amp until I get the new Revanant Pro and see how it sounds.

This weekend I was listening to some tunes and came to the realization just how much I miss my 12" Kicker solobaric from time to time. And judging from some of the earlier posts, that Rockford Punch setup looks sweet and very straight forward. Plus the look of the non carpeted box is a plus for that OEM look. Quick disconnects also add to the OEM-ish appeal. I understand the concern with the 8's not having the low frequencies offloaded to the sub. And the Revanant Pro doesn't account for a rear trunk sub. But how "off" would the setup be if I keep the Pro amp and not go for a "tunable" amp? I'm banking on the amp being just fine and playing nice with the punch box. I may just have an audio shop wire up the amp for me since that Revenant pro amp would benefit from direct power from the battery and I know I don't have too much time on my hands to really focus on the wiring. My car is a daily driver and want things installed right the first time.

One other question. I've been flirting with getting an android headunit. I have a Note 20 Ultra 5G phone and the android integration with this current generation of Idrive is just limited. I want to run native spotify on the head unit, please view my work emails if I need to on the go (Apparel manufacturing= emails from all over the world.) Is there an adverse effect to adding an android headunit with the setup I am planning?

Gonna have a busy week this week....BMS spacers arriving tomorrow, and picking up by 351's freshly powder coated High Gloss Black after work. Then will tackle one door at a time throughout the week until I receive the new amp.

[burro_blasta]

Glad you're digging up this chain. I've been into speaker upgrades and sound deadening lately, nice to have someone else going through it too!

I added the Match door components, Match underseat subs, and just ordered the Match center channel speaker since that seems worth the $100 upgrade. I think that's everything...for now!

Originally Posted by RJV3

In preparation for the amp install, I ordered 36 square feet of sound deadening material.
Going to apply to the door panels, but had a question on the 8" subs. The enclosure is pretty shallow, so would i necessarily need to add the sound deadening material to the inside of the enclosure?
Wrap the enclosure itself? Or skip it entirely? Right now at certain high volumes I can hear the sub bottoming out. I'm also pushing the HK amp until I get the new Revanant Pro and see how it sounds.

I wrapped the outside (bottom and sides) of the plastic enclosure. It had no problem fitting back into place. Didn't take much material and doesn't hurt, I guess. Not sure if it makes a difference or not.

I also deadened my doors. There's a big grey foamy panel that covers the majority of the door with exposed metal only on the borders. I didn't bother pulling off the foam in order to access the inner door. I put the material directly on top of the foam, put some strips on the exposed metal around the borders, then also some on the inside of the door panel itself. Super easy to do...pulling off the grey foam probably doesn't create many headaches but might create the need to add fresh butyl adhesive in order to get it to stick back in place, so I just did it the dumb/ugly way on top of the foam.

Originally Posted by RJV3

This weekend I was listening to some tunes and came to the realization just how much I miss my 12" Kicker solobaric from time to time. And judging from some of the earlier posts, that Rockford Punch setup looks sweet and very straight forward. Plus the look of the non carpeted box is a plus for that OEM look. Quick disconnects also add to the OEM-ish appeal. I understand the concern with the 8's not having the low frequencies offloaded to the sub. And the Revanant Pro doesn't account for a rear trunk sub. But how "off" would the setup be if I keep the Pro amp and not go for a "tunable" amp? I'm banking on the amp being just fine and playing nice with the punch box. I may just have an audio shop wire up the amp for me since that Revenant pro amp would benefit from direct power from the battery and I know I don't have too much time on my hands to really focus on the wiring. My car is a daily driver and want things installed right the first time.

That RF 12" has been great. Many, many, many times I've been thankful for those quick disconnects.

How "off" the setup would be I think comes down to two main tuning parameters you'll be missing:

First, you won't able to adjust your time alignment. But, the sub is all the way in the trunk and in my setup it is the second farthest speaker from the driver's seat with the passenger side back deck speaker being barely farther. So, assuming the default is zero time delay on the line out from the Revenant Pro to your sub, I don't think this is a problem at all.

Second, you won't be able to customize your crossover points. The Revenant Pro will probably have your underseats playing from 30 up to 150 or 200, and then your door woofers will pick up at and above 150 or 200. If you plug in your sub and use the RF physical crossover knob to have it play up to 80, then you'll have your sub and underseats overlapping in the ~30-80 range. You can see in this thread there are people more knowledgeable than me saying that you will get phase cancellation and nightmare quality bad sound from that phase cancellation and it's an absolutely unacceptable thing to have (I'm kind of exaggerating, but still). I haven't tested so I'm not sure how "bad" it'd sound. But I can say the advantage of setting my own crossovers is that I have my sub playing up to 80, my underseats playing 80-180, then my door woofers starting at 180 (still tweaking whether it'll stay at 180 or more like 200, whatever). So I'm getting more value out of my underseats by having them not overlap with the sub and instead doing some of the heavy low frequency lift (the 100s range) that otherwise my door woofers would have had to handle...is that such a huge improvement that it's worth you ditching the pre-tuned Revenant and having to do all the tuning yourself? I don't know. I'll just reiterate that I'm really loving being able to play with tuning the Match myself...when I had read about people spending "hours" tuning I wanted to puke but turns out you can set your time alignment and crossovers pretty quickly - after a couple youtube videos to understand the laptop interface - then from there you're sort of already in a great spot and can just play with it based on your personal taste (mess with crossovers, eventually get into RTA if you want, etc). I feel like I've finally learned the broader aspects of audio system tuning that'll pay off in the years ahead...that's until those more knowledgeable people chime in and explain that everything I've written is dumb and wrong

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Glad you're digging up this chain. I've been into speaker upgrades and sound deadening lately, nice to have someone else going through it too!

I added the Match door components, Match underseat subs, and just ordered the Match center channel speaker since that seems worth the $100 upgrade. I think that's everything...for now!



I wrapped the outside (bottom and sides) of the plastic enclosure. It had no problem fitting back into place. Didn't take much material and doesn't hurt, I guess. Not sure if it makes a difference or not.

I also deadened my doors. There's a big grey foamy panel that covers the majority of the door with exposed metal only on the borders. I didn't bother pulling off the foam in order to access the inner door. I put the material directly on top of the foam, put some strips on the exposed metal around the borders, then also some on the inside of the door panel itself. Super easy to do...pulling off the grey foam probably doesn't create many headaches but might create the need to add fresh butyl adhesive in order to get it to stick back in place, so I just did it the dumb/ugly way on top of the foam.



That RF 12" has been great. Many, many, many times I've been thankful for those quick disconnects.

How "off" the setup would be I think comes down to two main tuning parameters you'll be missing:

First, you won't able to adjust your time alignment. But, the sub is all the way in the trunk and in my setup it is the second farthest speaker from the driver's seat with the passenger side back deck speaker being barely farther. So, assuming the default is zero time delay on the line out from the Revenant Pro to your sub, I don't think this is a problem at all.

Second, you won't be able to customize your crossover points. The Revenant Pro will probably have your underseats playing from 30 up to 150 or 200, and then your door woofers will pick up at and above 150 or 200. If you plug in your sub and use the RF physical crossover knob to have it play up to 80, then you'll have your sub and underseats overlapping in the ~30-80 range. You can see in this thread there are people more knowledgeable than me saying that you will get phase cancellation and nightmare quality bad sound from that phase cancellation and it's an absolutely unacceptable thing to have (I'm kind of exaggerating, but still). I haven't tested so I'm not sure how "bad" it'd sound. But I can say the advantage of setting my own crossovers is that I have my sub playing up to 80, my underseats playing 80-180, then my door woofers starting at 180 (still tweaking whether it'll stay at 180 or more like 200, whatever). So I'm getting more value out of my underseats by having them not overlap with the sub and instead doing some of the heavy low frequency lift (the 100s range) that otherwise my door woofers would have had to handle...is that such a huge improvement that it's worth you ditching the pre-tuned Revenant and having to do all the tuning yourself? I don't know. I'll just reiterate that I'm really loving being able to play with tuning the Match myself...when I had read about people spending "hours" tuning I wanted to puke but turns out you can set your time alignment and crossovers pretty quickly - after a couple youtube videos to understand the laptop interface - then from there you're sort of already in a great spot and can just play with it based on your personal taste (mess with crossovers, eventually get into RTA if you want, etc). I feel like I've finally learned the broader aspects of audio system tuning that'll pay off in the years ahead...that's until those more knowledgeable people chime in and explain that everything I've written is dumb and wrong

another great reason why i'm so glad you heed to what we said to go with the MatchUp amp! to be able to fine tune your system to your ears and your ears only. i'm sure the more tweaks you do the better it will sound in the end. and you're gaining knowledge of being an audiophile which will cross over to home audio and anything audio related

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

another great reason why i'm so glad you heed to what we said to go with the MatchUp amp! to be able to fine tune your system to your ears and your ears only. i'm sure the more tweaks you do the better it will sound in the end. and you're gaining knowledge of being an audiophile which will cross over to home audio and anything audio related

Exactly! Home audio and REW is making a lot more sense now.

Curious where you settled on your crossovers? Like I mentioned, I'm at: sub up to 80, underseats 80-180, everything else 180 and up.

Also, if you haven't read through this link while listening to its Spotify playlist...pour yourself a cold one, head out to the garage, and enjoy

https://www.bmw.com/en/innovation/be...-speakers.html

[RJV3]

Update from Bavsound on the Revenant Pro Amp and my subwoofer inquiry....

Quote

It is on track for later this month still, not tracking just yet.


The Revenant Pro has an 85Hz LPF enabled for the RCA out, so that it will pair nicely with the system. From there adjusting output via the knob included with your subwoofer will allow you to tweak output. The Revenant Pro provides a super clean signal so any distortion, or lack there of will be down to the aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer. Should pair great!


End Quote

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by RJV3

Update from Bavsound on the Revenant Pro Amp and my subwoofer inquiry....

Quote

It is on track for later this month still, not tracking just yet.


The Revenant Pro has an 85Hz LPF enabled for the RCA out, so that it will pair nicely with the system. From there adjusting output via the knob included with your subwoofer will allow you to tweak output. The Revenant Pro provides a super clean signal so any distortion, or lack there of will be down to the aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer. Should pair great!


End Quote

Still leaves you with the sub and underseats overlapping between 30-80. Not sure how bad that really is, but pretty sure a professional custom tune would never do that. Bavsound played down the importance but other shops (and ppl on this thread) played it up

[RJV3]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Still leaves you with the sub and underseats overlapping between 30-80. Not sure how bad that really is, but pretty sure a professional custom tune would never do that. Bavsound played down the importance but other shops (and ppl on this thread) played it up

Agreed. Guess I'll have to install that amp first and see how it goes. In the meantime, I plan on soundproofing the doors this weekend and prep the trunk for the amp install.

[RJV3]

Ok so I threw on some sound deadening on the inside of the doors. Didn't feel the need to put some on the inside of the door and just applied on some sections around the speakers and flat areas that could cause resonance. The Rockford sub came in today. Still waiting on Bavsound to ship the damn amp. By the way. I was checking on real OEM for the part number to the white plastic door clips. A couple of the prongs were bent / broken and I can't find the part number. Can anyone assist on the this? Lastly, did you guys install a capacitor in your system or no? I think the car can handle 300 watts and not need it. But always want to be cautious.

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by RJV3

Ok so I threw on some sound deadening on the inside of the doors. Didn't feel the need to put some on the inside of the door and just applied on some sections around the speakers and flat areas that could cause resonance. The Rockford sub came in today. Still waiting on Bavsound to ship the damn amp. By the way. I was checking on real OEM for the part number to the white plastic door clips. A couple of the prongs were bent / broken and I can't find the part number. Can anyone assist on the this? Lastly, did you guys install a capacitor in your system or no? I think the car can handle 300 watts and not need it. But always want to be cautious.

I saw this in another forum and saved it...looks the same but don't know if it's the exact same for f10...lmk if you confirm!

Haven't messed with capacitors

[RJV3]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

I saw this in another forum and saved it...looks the same but don't know if it's the exact same for f10...lmk if you confirm!

Haven't messed with capacitors

Nice find. Was able to hone in on the part numbers. Looks like # 5 in the diagram (from fcp euro) and part number for a 2016 535I xdrive is 07147145753

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by RJV3

Nice find. Was able to hone in on the part numbers. Looks like # 5 in the diagram (from fcp euro) and part number for a 2016 535I xdrive is 07147145753

Good to know...any chance it's part #6 or is that obviously not it when you see the details?

[RJV3]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Good to know...any chance it's part #6 or is that obviously not it when you see the details?

The door clips are definately #5 with the item number I posted. They just shipped. Should receive tomorrow.

I emailed Bavsound again for a status update and they replied the Amp will be shipped at the end of the month. Smh. Had a feeling they were going to say that. Needed that bad boy in time for Memorial Day weekend.

[lsturbointeg]

shoot! i blew my center speaker as it starting to rattle. someone mentioned about replacing their center channel? which one did you go with and do you have a link? thanks!

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

shoot! i blew my center speaker as it starting to rattle. someone mentioned about replacing their center channel? which one did you go with and do you have a link? thanks!

I ordered it from a local shop for $100, didnt see it online, model is Match UP X4BMW-CTR.3. It's back ordered 3-4 weeks so haven't gotten it yet.

Fwiw, that shop has a good reputation and told me they use Match speakers for their plug n play bmw projects, said they've always had good results.

Also, different topic, where did you settle on your crossovers? I'm at: sub up to 80, underseats 80-180, everything else 180 and up.

[RJV3]

Another delay.... From Bavsound...


There are two remaining components that need to get into the warehouse for this to ship out, one is with DHL currently and the other with FedEx. Both have slipped on their committed dates to us and it is looking like it may be next week this ships now due to this. FedEx has slipped to an expected delivery to our fulfillment center with the package from Australia containing the MOST adapters to June 2nd now. 


DHL has had the Wiring Harnesses in GA where our fulfillment center is since the Friday the 21st, and they were supposed to be delivered on Tuesday the 25th. Delivery is now pending. I share this not for sympathy, but to relate it's very difficult to know exactly what update to provide when it changes daily, and we don't want to provide inaccurate information to our customers. We were, perhaps foolishly, holding onto the hope there would not be shipping delays and this would still get out this week as we had promised.


I am working on putting together what I hope to be a final email update, and understand we likely should have updated before now as well. Hopefully the above sheds some light on the situation and do know the wait truly is nearly over. 


I can promise you the wait will be worth it and the transformation of the audio system in your BMW will be stunning!

[burro_blasta]

That's frustrating. When I first talked to them they said I'd get it in March!!

I was already less than thrilled with the way they had answered my tuning questions. Sounds like they're having excessive delays without a reasonable amount of updates for the customers. Not cool.

[DL7]

Any update RJV3? I had been thinking about ordering this amp as well but wanted to see some reviews first. Unfortunately, Bavsound’s website now says the amp is sold out until later this year.