[Stück]

Since upgrading my car with the tune, Pure Stage 2 turbo, and other supporting mods I have noticed oil temperatures creeping higher in the summer weather when I drive predominately in Sport mode. I generally hit Sport as soon as shes up to temp as lets face it... Comfort throttle and transmission settings drive like a Buick.

I don't like seeing the oil temp gauge right of center with modest spirited driving on surface streets.

F10 535is with either of the following options would have had the engine oil cooler as stock:

823 Hot Climate Version
840 High Speed Synchronisation

As my car was built as a base ass model from the factory this is something I'll have to retrofit if I want it.

Everything else received the basic engine oil to engine coolant heat exchanger. This works just fine in cooler climates, but once it gets hot trying to cool one hot fluid with another starts to find diminished results....

Here is a diagram of the top spec cooling system with the Aux Radiator mounted nearside, and the Engine Oil Cooler mounted far side:



Again, with details of the actual components as installed:



The biggest pain in the ass of this retrofit is that cars that were NOT equipped with the oil cooler have the Aux Radiator mounted on the far side. This means it will need to be moved to the near side, relocated with all new hoses and brackets not currently present. The Engine Oil Cooler will then take its place on the far side.



I made a salvage yard run today and grabbed most of the retrofit components needed.... updates soon.


List of major conversion components needed (still filling in this list, if this message remains its NOT complete)

11 42 7 573 051 - Oil cooler thermostat housing
11 42 7 542 983 (3x)- Torx bolts for cooler to oil filter housing (longer)
17 21 7 572 542 - Engine oil cooler w/ frame
17 22 7 636 940 - Oil cooler supply line
17 22 7 636 941 - Oil cooler return line
11 42 8 637 820 - Oil cooler housing gasket
17 22 7 586 895 - Standoff, oil cooler line
17 22 7 800 958 (2x) - Oil cooler line to housing orings
71 11 6 750 167 (2x) - Srcew, felt head, clip
31 14 6 786 689 (2x) - Self taping screw, oil cooler bracket
71 11 6 750 167 (2x) - Pipe clip top
17 12 7 588 942 (2x) - Pipe clip bottom
07 11 9 905 949 (2x) - Self locking hex nut

17 11 8 615 426 - Main engine coolant radiator with correct fittings (if needed, production changes are inconsistent, yours may be plugged)
17 12 7 580 964 - Auxiliary radiator to radiator hot side end tank upper fitting hose
17 12 7 580 963 - Transmission heat exchanger to radiator hot side lower fitting hose
17 12 7 580 965 - Aux radiator outlet to cold side of radiator
17 11 7 583 119 - Bracket, aux radiator support LH mounted
41 61 7 068 715 - Screws to mount bracket
07 12 9 904 819 - Torx bolt, cooler to headlamp bracket
11 53 7 583 939 - Water pump outlet feed pipe
17 11 7 575 251 (2x) - Damping element, lower mount bracket
51 74 7 903 889 - Drivers side air duct for relocated aux radiator

[Bmw doubles]

I reversed the stock oil cooler valve and under hard driving conditions I'm at 215. Takes forever to warm up though worth it. It will see 240 in stop and go traffic. Today's its 101 degrees, took on a challenger on the freeway and 215 degrees remains.

[lsturbointeg]

are you planning on running an external setup?

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

[ezaircon4jc]

[AMT92]

Originally Posted by Stück

Since upgrading my car with the tune, Pure Stage 2 turbo, and other supporting mods I have noticed oil temperatures creeping higher in the summer weather when I drive predominately in Sport mode. I generally hit Sport as soon as shes up to temp as lets face it... Comfort throttle and transmission settings drive like a Buick.

I don't like seeing the oil temp gauge right of center with modest spirited driving on surface streets.

F10 535is with either of the following options would have had the engine oil cooler as stock:

823 Hot Climate Version
840 High Speed Synchronisation

As my car was built as a base ass model from the factory this is something I'll have to retrofit if I want it.

Everything else received the basic engine oil to engine coolant heat exchanger. This works just fine in cooler climates, but once it gets hot trying to cool one hot fluid with another starts to find diminished results....

Here is a diagram of the top spec cooling system with the Aux Radiator mounted nearside, and the Engine Oil Cooler mounted far side:


Again, with details of the actual components as installed:


The biggest pain in the ass of this retrofit is that cars that were NOT equipped with the oil cooler have the Aux Radiator mounted on the far side. This means it will need to be moved to the near side, relocated with all new hoses and brackets not currently present. The Engine Oil Cooler will then take its place on the far side.



I made a salvage yard run today and grabbed most of the retrofit components needed.... updates soon.

What is going on with your pure stage 2?! I keep on debating whether I should stop fussing around and go with a bigger turbo setup as I love my 5 and have already put a decent amount into mods.

[Stück]

Currently waiting on the replacement to be built and ship.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

You'll be surprised on how many guys run these...maybe not exactly in plain site like the pictures but you'll see them mounted in the lower grill inside sorta

[Stück]

I've been out of town on business this past week but got in last night and had some time today to clean up some of the needed components.

I disassembled everything and cleaned the thermostat housing, lines, and cooler core in the varsol tank. Then I covered the fittings on the cooler and bead blasted it to get it super clean and ready for a new lease on life.

Front and back of the complete oil cooler setup:



Closeup of the oil coolers thermostat housing:



Close up of the cooler core:

[MissionPerformance]

How high did your oil temps get to? Extremely high oil temps (130c +) can cause torque reduction as a safety function.

We are actually doing very similar project on F10 M5 right now. Using a factory, side mounted n63tu, oil cooler in combination with the middle grill mounted oil cooler to help with oil temps.

[Stück]

Right of center obviously, 260's(f) I'd think anyway. I can pull up the Kombi menu for temp display next time I'm out and see.

It only really gets cooking if I'm zipping around in medium paced traffic banging gears myself in Sport+

[Bmw doubles]

Hey Stuck I'm clear on the usage. Even if you add another additional cooler to your stock one you'll only benefit when you're moving / convection. Stop and go traffic you will still see high temps. Of course when you're moving you'll substantially lower temps. My stock valve reversal mod I see 240f in stop and go and when moving 215f.

Also does this require an additional quart?

[HizEternal]

Do you have the part numbers? Can we have them so we can retrofit if we wanted to?

Awesome post by the way

[Stück]

I do have part numbers, I'll post them up soon. The ETK is not clear about a few parts in the drawings, even by the VIN, and I wanted to make sure I had the right stuff in hand before I posted numbers.

[AZ-MCRacer]

BMW Doubles,
Is there any writeup/posts of reversing the stock valve? I'd be interested in learning more about doing this. I am in AZ, warm up time isn't an issue, heat is.

[Bmw doubles]

Originally Posted by AZ-MCRacer

BMW Doubles,
Is there any writeup/posts of reversing the stock valve? I'd be interested in learning more about doing this. I am in AZ, warm up time isn't an issue, heat is.

Haven't done a write up on it, but the quick answer is

This is in an N54, but the cooler is the same. The only difference is I hade to disconnect the send and return lines from the oil valve housing in order to get to the one the cover bolts.

[AZ-MCRacer]

Thank you. Looks easy enough, I might try it out this weekend.

[Stück]

Alriiiight. Had some fun (not) today at the shop. I intended to do this last weekend but it didn't work out time wise. I kinda thought it might be more than a one day job, so I'm glad I waited for this weekend when I could split it over 2 days... because it needs to be.

I spent about 6 hours on it in total today, in 95F heat, and I'm just exhausted. I managed to get the car to a near-done state of conversion so tomorrow is mainly putting things back together.

First task was to remove the Vorsteiner front lip, and the front bumper. The lip blocks a bunch of bolts so they can't be taken off together. You can see the aux radiator on the passenger side of the car where it is factory located on cars without S823/S840. I can't honestly say why BMW didn't just leave the aux radiator on the drivers side on all variants but maybe they thought moving 5lbs to the opposing corner would better balance the car *shrug*



Aux radiator and associated plumbing removed, front end torn down as needed to facilitate reconfiguration. Old crossover pipe halfway out. Drivers side aux rad lower bracket added. Coolant draining out the bottom....



Here is a picture at the main radiators HOT side end tank. (drivers side) When I put my car together over a year ago I grabbed (unknowingly) a radiator from a car that had the S823/S840 packages. I didn't understand why it had extra fittings at the time so I just bought an extra blind plug from the dealer to cover the unused fittings. My original radiator only had the upper fitting, with a blind plug on it from production.



The upper fitting is the supply to the aux radiator, the lower fitting is the return from the transmission cooler heat exchanger which is mounted under the intake manifold and desperately inaccessible.

Stock oil filter housing with the original oil-to-coolant heat exchanger removed, new OE BMW gasket installed. New oil cooler thermostat housing sat up on top. Don't cheap out and go with the off brand gaskets, while these are a fraction of the cost they are junk and will leak within a years time. The factory OFHG/OCHG last 60-80k before they typically start leaking.



Coolant feed line from the water pump outlet to the rear of the block. The one on top is the original one with the large barb fitting being the return from the oil heat exchanger. Obviously this has to go away now, which means replacing the pipe. This required removing the downpipe for clearance to get the pipe out, no way around it. The small barb is coolant supply for the turbocharger.




Now for fishing the oil cooler hard lines between the subframe and the inner structure, which was a complete and total bitch. I messed around with this for longer than anything. In the end I had to remove the hot side charge pipe, thermostat and water pump inlet hose to get enough room to articulate the lines into place. After fighting them for awhile from the top side I figured out they go in a whole lot easier from the wheel well into the engine bay rather than what I'd been trying. Still a bit of a twist and push dance to wiggle them into position but it proved possible without dropping the subframe.




The outboard rubber isolation mount installs onto the subframe with a self taping M6 screw into a predrilled hole.

Oil cooler hung in place on its mounts, supply and return lines clicked into place.



The inboard rubber isolation mount also installs onto the subframe with a sell taping M6 screw, again into a predrilled hole. The aluminum standoff is part of the conversion it is not original to the car.



Same standoff/mount but further away, again with the thermostat and hot side charge pipes removed for access. No effing way you're doing this with them in place.




More to come tomorrow...

[Stück]

Went back at it today for another 4 hours or so to get everything back together.

I installed the correct hose from the automatic trans heat exchanger to the radiator that I left at home yesterday, The charge pipe and had to be removed to grant access to release the fitting.



After that pretty much everything back together.

Both coolers in place and all duct work reinstalled, new drivers side cooler duct added and the blockoff plates on the drivers side foglamp trim were removed to allow airflow to the newly relocated cooler.



After everything was back in I went ahead and did an oil service, filled the sump with 7L of Motul 8100 XCess oil, and then with a tiny funnel pre-filled the engine oil cooler up with oil with the lines disconnected from the thermostat housing. The cooler and lines took approximately 1.25 - 1.5 L of additional oil, adding to overall capacity.

After that was all buttoned up I moved on to fill the cooling system, taking about a gallon and a half while the water pump ran through the bleed procedure twice. Normally once is enough but with how many things I had apart, I wanted to be absolutely certain. I did get a refill coolant message on the way home so looks like I could have run it a third time!

Tired as I was (and am) I just drove home in comfort mode enjoying the AC. It does look like the temps are running lower though.

[5soko]

This is amazing write up and work!

[ngl]

Did adding the oil cooler changed the way you had to do oil changes ? I can't see how would the oil from the cooler would ever get changed from just opening the drain plug.

I know the age of this thread, but I'm in the process of doing something similar and could not find an answer to this question.

[AZ-MCRacer]

I wouldn't imagine so, my car came with the oil cooler factory and the process is no different. It might require more oil since there is additional oil in the system. I know for mine an oil change requires 6.5 qts of oil.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ngl

Did adding the oil cooler changed the way you had to do oil changes ? I can't see how would the oil from the cooler would ever get changed from just opening the drain plug.

I know the age of this thread, but I'm in the process of doing something similar and could not find an answer to this question.

The oil in the cooler doesn't get changed, but it will mix with the fresh one and be diluted enough to be moot. So eventually, it will get flushed out with enough oil changes.