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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum 550 n63 engine problems??
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      05-10-2016, 02:28 PM   #23
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I was driving a little aggressively this past weekend in Sport Mode with the Sport Shifter, and after about 10 minutes (from cold) got the dreaded Drivetrain Malfunction, Power Loss message. It ended up going away after I reached my destination but of course that error still logged in the computer.

So, took it in this morning (they gave me an M235i as a loaner.. omg, WHAT a great little car!!), and the FOB read that it was a timing chain error. Still under diagnosis but I know the timing chain was part of the CCP that very few had replaced. My S.A. told me only 1 of all the N63s they did had to have one redone, so I'm not sure what that means for me.
Really sucks though. I'd gone right at a year with zero hiccups. Glad I paid for that aftermarket warranty... whew!
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      05-10-2016, 05:28 PM   #24
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What's your mileage ? And since it was supposed to be covered in ccp, are they still covering costs and not putting the cost on your aftermarket warranty ?
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      05-11-2016, 08:23 AM   #25
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Got a call from my S.A. afternoon after tests were run.

It's the VANOS Bank 1. VANOS Bank 2 was replaced last year around this time, I'm not sure if it was part of the CCP or not. I asked her how many of those there were and she said 4, and I said great, only 2 more to look forward to failing! lol...

Why do these things always go bad? I mean, I have a slight idea of what they are/do but I don't get why they fail so much. It seems to be with every BMW too going back to as long as I've been reading about them.

Either way it's not the timing chain (which is good) so I should have it back today/tomorrow.

My mileage is right under 54k miles.
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      05-11-2016, 09:49 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 435xiGCMsport View Post
I actually ordered a 435 but BMW made a mistake on the car so will wait to order a 440xi Gran Coupe instead.
Before I bought the 440xi GC I actually looked at getting the 535 in 2014 but found power to be lacking so looked at the 2013 550 demo. Test drove the demo and feel something not right so I told the owner something is wrong with the car. He checked the car and asked me back to test drive it again and I told him still something isn't right with the engine. Six months later.......TSB. The car only had about 25000km on it. I noticed something was wrong when you flat out accelerate and also when cruising to a more reasonable speed after the acceleration.
Did some research and talked to Customer Service Manager who was a friend and he confirmed the problems of the N63 is not just a myth. Before the TSB it was a huge headache for him.
He now deals with them on a daily basis in claims to BMW.
Your experience in the 550 does not really speak to the CCP issues. Regardless you made a fine choice with a 4 series. Happy driving.
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      05-12-2016, 09:10 AM   #27
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Got the car back this morning. My aftermarket warranty didn't cover diagnostic fees, but it did all parts and labor so I wasn't out of pocket too much.

Car is back to driving like it should! Only 2 more VANOS banks to fail lol...
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      05-18-2016, 09:45 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicEndeavor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew14f10 View Post
I've been looking to buy like a 2013 550 n63 but I've been hearing a few things about engine problems .. Have any n63 owners experience any major engine problems
Here's a thread on the N63 recalls.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=817273

I would steer clear of the N63. Sadly, it's a poorly designed engine that has been very problematic. The modified version (N63tu) was introduced with the 2014 model year which appears to be a somewhat better design.
Would an Audi S6 work for you?
The N63 is a wolf in wolf's clothing. It allows you to drive it like a granny and it will reward you with sipping fuel (relatively speaking) and sipping oil.

Get a Honda or Nissan if you want an unremarkable motor that hits it's limit under 100 mph.

The n63 tractor when married to the 550 chassis is a beast---if you want it to be.

At the same time, driving the 550 like a granny is like having a goldfish in a small bowl. Your growth will be stunted whilst you swim in your own feces.

You can push the n63 without living dangerously or being overly risky. From time to time, it's gonna need parts.

The n63 customer care pack was not necessitated by a faulty design. The n63 care pack was necessitated by BMWs failure to predict how the car would be driven.

Drive it hard, get its innards to learn to sing harmoniously and you'll be rewarded with a long life with tons of fun.

If you overly baby this car, it's innards will never learn to synchronize in harmony---this will lead to asymmetrical forces combined with dangerous harmonics that will ultimately produce a Tacoma Narrows Bridge of shame.

Drive it.
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      09-14-2016, 02:59 PM   #29
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Hello,

Like all the other guys here, having problems with the N63 engine, it seems that it is my turn.

Unlike US cars and BMW NA, in Europe , we dont have the CCP. I had done only a recall for high pressure fuel pumps.

The first problems with the car where that it did not cool down. I could drive it only for 2-3 minutes, and then the air cons was shutting donw, and the car was not pulling anymore.

Took off the radiators, separate them and clean them individually. There was a lot of dirt between them, and the air was not getting through to the las one, wich is the coolant radiator.

Replaced 2 electrical water pumps. one for the intercoolers and one for the cooling sistem. the mecanical water pump, remained untouched.

All good, the car was running perfectly. After a while, the engine start was taking too long than normal. also there was an issue with the starter. Replaced that with new and original starter.

I also replaced the spark plugs. Bosch equivalent, not BMW original ( although they are also Bosh, but somehow minor differences ).

All good again. After another while, the car was starting to throw black smoke, and drive train error. But somehow, i could anticipate it: it started to run in shocks, like it would be overcoming some obstacle. After 3 shoks like this, the CEL appears and the drive train error , alltoghether.

First diagnose, misfire on cilinder 2, lambda probe bank 1 faulty. Erase error, drive it again, again error. after some internet reading, decided to replace all 8 injectors and lambda probe.

All good, car was running flawlessly for 100km. Then, misfire on cylinder 3 and 5. erased erors, drove it again, and instantly missfire. cilinder 2. then decide to switch the spark plugs between 1 and 2. Instantly , erorr moved to 1st clilinder. I said ok, let's change the sparkplugs again, with original ones. Done that, same errors. It varies from 1 to 4 cylinder.

reprogrammed the DME. reprogrammed the whole car. switched all coils between them. all good, the error remains the same.

today i took off the turbo on bank 1 to check the exhaust baldes and catalist. all good. Compression ok.

the car is 2011 and 69.000 km, 43,125miles. Russian car. ordered for Russian market.

at this point i dont know what to do next. the SA told me that he spotted some coolant between the turbos. i dont know where it camed from. It was not much..

What do you think ? because i dont know what to do next.. where to look ? Vanos ? Head gasket ? Now all the errors are only on bank 1. passenger side....

thank you
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      01-18-2017, 10:46 AM   #30
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59,000 Miles-Timing Chain Issue

If you are already thinking this ended how a lot of peoples has you would be correct. Catastrophic damage.

Pt.1: It all started 26 miles after leaving the dealer from a brake fluid service. While at the dealer getting my car serviced i expressed my concern to my SA about the CCP on the car and if it had been performed, he told me that it had been done at 40,xxx. We stayed on the topic for a while and i told him that my only fear of owning the car was the injector/timing chain issues... Just so happens that after i pick up my car and 26 miles later that exact issue occurs. Go figure, right?

Background on the car: The chain had to of stretched between 46,xxx and 59,xxx. How do i know this? A CPO inspection was done to issue a CPO warranty on the car at 46,xxx to the previous owner and it was issued. (Either they didn't inspect much and the chain was already stretched at 46,xxx or it actually did stretch within those 13,xxx miles). I purchased the car at 55,xxx with warranty.

Pt.2:The initial diagnostic was that the chain had stretched and caused a tensioner to fail. New chain & tensioners = $8K repair

3 weeks later...

Upon further inspection they found that a piece of the plastic tensioner had ended up dislodging an oil spraying nozzle on the bottom end of the motor from its threads and the engine is a total loss. (Makes no sense, how does a piece of plastic rip a metal nozzle of out its threads within seconds of driving) At this point i'm furious that it took them 3 weeks to "free" and engine stand and tell me i need a new long block. New long block = $14k repair.

CNA decides to be cheap and only wants to pay for a used long block from a 2013 with 35,xxx miles which put the repair bill at $13k. They gave me the option to pay the difference, i declined. (If they want to be cheap and risk this happening again thats their fault)

Pt.3: The dealer has dragged their feet throughout this process and after 2 weeks of them receiving the used motor and constant delays the day finally comes that its suppose to be ready. (A week after the original day it was suppose to be ready) I arrive at the dealer and they tell me: "the car is ready but we haven't had a chance to do an "extensive" driving test of 50+ miles and that its protocol after a large repair". (So its not ready... but ok...) I leave it over night and the next day i pick it up and as i get in the car i notice the trip had started 38 mins prior to me picking it up and was only driven 20 miles. (completely lied to my face). At this point i dont care and i'm happy to have my car.

Guess what? At exactly 52 miles i get a drivetrain malfunction and reduced engine power... (I'm livid at this point and could've ran through a wall.) I finally get the director of all the "superior automotive" service centers involved and explain the lies and delays by his BMW service center. He ends up giving me $100 gift card and full detail inside/outside. The new issue was a camshaft sensor that was bad on the used motor but was not billed to me or CNA due to the fact that the service center blatantly lied about the extensive driving test they did not do.

I attached 2 pictures, one is of the new long block and the other is "the old one". The oil nozzle that failed sits directly below the crankshaft from that picture angle. Essentially it is the heart... No oil spray/circulation, bye bye engine.

After about 3 months i was finally back on the road. To date i'm at 1500 miles without any issues. CNA paid for repairs and i paid my $200 deductible. I cant stress enough, if you buy this car buy a warranty. ($4400, 3 years/36,000 miles, it already paid for itself)

As far as my dealer, i trust them as far as i can throw them.
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      01-21-2017, 02:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calderaedgar29 View Post
If you are already thinking this ended how a lot of peoples has you would be correct. Catastrophic damage.

Pt.1: It all started 26 miles after leaving the dealer from a brake fluid service. While at the dealer getting my car serviced i expressed my concern to my SA about the CCP on the car and if it had been performed, he told me that it had been done at 40,xxx. We stayed on the topic for a while and i told him that my only fear of owning the car was the injector/timing chain issues... Just so happens that after i pick up my car and 26 miles later that exact issue occurs. Go figure, right?

Background on the car: The chain had to of stretched between 46,xxx and 59,xxx. How do i know this? A CPO inspection was done to issue a CPO warranty on the car at 46,xxx to the previous owner and it was issued. (Either they didn't inspect much and the chain was already stretched at 46,xxx or it actually did stretch within those 13,xxx miles). I purchased the car at 55,xxx with warranty.

Pt.2:The initial diagnostic was that the chain had stretched and caused a tensioner to fail. New chain & tensioners = $8K repair

3 weeks later...

Upon further inspection they found that a piece of the plastic tensioner had ended up dislodging an oil spraying nozzle on the bottom end of the motor from its threads and the engine is a total loss. (Makes no sense, how does a piece of plastic rip a metal nozzle of out its threads within seconds of driving) At this point i'm furious that it took them 3 weeks to "free" and engine stand and tell me i need a new long block. New long block = $14k repair.

CNA decides to be cheap and only wants to pay for a used long block from a 2013 with 35,xxx miles which put the repair bill at $13k. They gave me the option to pay the difference, i declined. (If they want to be cheap and risk this happening again thats their fault)

Pt.3: The dealer has dragged their feet throughout this process and after 2 weeks of them receiving the used motor and constant delays the day finally comes that its suppose to be ready. (A week after the original day it was suppose to be ready) I arrive at the dealer and they tell me: "the car is ready but we haven't had a chance to do an "extensive" driving test of 50+ miles and that its protocol after a large repair". (So its not ready... but ok...) I leave it over night and the next day i pick it up and as i get in the car i notice the trip had started 38 mins prior to me picking it up and was only driven 20 miles. (completely lied to my face). At this point i dont care and i'm happy to have my car.

Guess what? At exactly 52 miles i get a drivetrain malfunction and reduced engine power... (I'm livid at this point and could've ran through a wall.) I finally get the director of all the "superior automotive" service centers involved and explain the lies and delays by his BMW service center. He ends up giving me $100 gift card and full detail inside/outside. The new issue was a camshaft sensor that was bad on the used motor but was not billed to me or CNA due to the fact that the service center blatantly lied about the extensive driving test they did not do.

I attached 2 pictures, one is of the new long block and the other is "the old one". The oil nozzle that failed sits directly below the crankshaft from that picture angle. Essentially it is the heart... No oil spray/circulation, bye bye engine.

After about 3 months i was finally back on the road. To date i'm at 1500 miles without any issues. CNA paid for repairs and i paid my $200 deductible. I cant stress enough, if you buy this car buy a warranty. ($4400, 3 years/36,000 miles, it already paid for itself)

As far as my dealer, i trust them as far as i can throw them.

I am in process of getting warranty on my 550 I was quoted $3400 and 50k miles
$200 deductible
I wonder why is warranty on your 550 so much more
also I was told bumper to bumper
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      01-25-2017, 12:09 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL Jeffe 5 View Post
I am in process of getting warranty on my 550 I was quoted $3400 and 50k miles
$200 deductible
I wonder why is warranty on your 550 so much more
also I was told bumper to bumper
Remember when I said I trust my dealer as far as I can throw them? I'm assuming they tacked on a little profit for themselves... Which they are allowed to do. I wasn't aware that they could when I purchased it. Either way, BUY IT.
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      01-25-2017, 11:47 AM   #33
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2011 550xi 68k only issue was a ruff idle & dt on cold starts. Fixed with cps sensor replacements.

Last edited by DriveTrainMalfunc; 01-25-2017 at 11:53 AM..
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      01-25-2017, 05:52 PM   #34
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2011 550i 75k miles, CCP done long ago...

Fun to drive, looks great, lots of power, and a P-O-Ssss. My engine was leaking oil from just everywhere that has oil and a gasket, valve covers and everywhere else. My garage floor looks like an oil slick. How hard is to make a gasket that lasts more than 5 years?

Just found out my valve stem seals are bad and need to be replaced....valve stem seals for facks sake?!?!? I've had some shet cars in past, like really shet cars like several 80's high-mileage Chrysler/Dodge products, but never had soooo much facking break on a car, especially with moderate miles.

Lucky it's under CPO otherwise I'd be out over $15k in repair bills just the past year.
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      06-13-2017, 01:09 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew14f10 View Post
I've been looking to buy like a 2013 550 n63 but I've been hearing a few things about engine problems .. Have any n63 owners experience any major engine problems
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew14f10 View Post
I've been looking to buy like a 2013 550 n63 but I've been hearing a few things about engine problems .. Have any n63 owners experience any major engine problems

Honestly I have had several issues as soon as my car hit 40,000 miles. I have had 4 engine malfunctions in 6 months. Every time it was for a different issue. Basically everything has been replaced under the factory morning, timing box, fuel pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, oil leaks, air intake, gaskets, and so much more I can't even remember. I would have to pull up my service reports.

My advice would be no question make sure you have a warranty on the car!!

When the car is fixed and riding great I have never driven a better more powerful car.

I would buy another one - that is how much I love the car! Just need a warranty
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      06-14-2017, 04:12 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by 550imsport2014 View Post
Honestly I have had several issues as soon as my car hit 40,000 miles. I have had 4 engine malfunctions in 6 months. Every time it was for a different issue. Basically everything has been replaced under the factory morning, timing box, fuel pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, oil leaks, air intake, gaskets, and so much more I can't even remember. I would have to pull up my service reports.

My advice would be no question make sure you have a warranty on the car!!

When the car is fixed and riding great I have never driven a better more powerful car.

I would buy another one - that is how much I love the car! Just need a warranty
+1 I think I'll dive into my glovebox and pull out all of my CPO warranty claims pamphlets from Crevier and Bill Pearce BMW and show them off. Always on-time maintenance (under maintenance plan!) and still having lots of issues. CCP was done at 20k; car's at 43k and it's been to the dealer 4 times lol. I still love it and don't even get mad if the drivetrain malfunction light comes on because I'll be getting into a loaded X5 loaner.

Maybe next time I'll get lucky and get to take a G30 out for a few days haha
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      06-14-2017, 04:31 PM   #37
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Last week I took my 550i in for a final inspection by the dealer on the last day of the CPO...of course there are multiple oil leaks from various gaskets that would have cost thousands in labor and parts. Now around $20k in warranty work in just the past year.
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      06-14-2017, 07:40 PM   #38
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BMW must have been losing money overall on cars with the N63 engines. I'm surprised they still use this engine (still seems to have issues even after the updates).

In my view, BMW V8 = lease only. The recent I6 engines seem to be ok to buy.
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      09-28-2017, 12:31 PM   #39
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Exclamation similar experience

Owner since new of a 2011 f10 550xi. Yes I applied the Dinan Stg2 upgrade but the car has been serviced and properly cared for...

...yet the engine has marred my experience. 78k miles later it has had:

1. all 8 coils, injectors and plugs replaced at least 3 times over
2. both vanos units replaced
3. timing belt replaced - engine out twice
4. water pumps replaced twice
5. oil pump replaced
6. low and both hi pressure fuel pumps replaced
7. CCP package applied
8. turbo coolant leaks fixed
9. oil leaks fixed
10. engine replaced

not to mentioned the engine was out twice before they replaced it.

Are the engines so bad? I was thinking of getting the new g30 550 or M5 next year but now I'm not so sure. I try to keep my cars 7-8yrs, but its seems those days are gone. Maybe since leasing has become so popular the cars are built for shorter term reliability???

Now I'm stuck whether to take the plunge on the new car or go elsewhere. Thoughts?
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      09-28-2017, 01:16 PM   #40
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If you don't want to lease, get the 540i instead. That car should hold up ok for 7-8 years.
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      09-28-2017, 01:18 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a72 View Post
Owner since new of a 2011 f10 550xi. Yes I applied the Dinan Stg2 upgrade but the car has been serviced and properly cared for...

...yet the engine has marred my experience. 78k miles later it has had:

1. all 8 coils, injectors and plugs replaced at least 3 times over
2. both vanos units replaced
3. timing belt replaced - engine out twice
4. water pumps replaced twice
5. oil pump replaced
6. low and both hi pressure fuel pumps replaced
7. CCP package applied
8. turbo coolant leaks fixed
9. oil leaks fixed
10. engine replaced

not to mentioned the engine was out twice before they replaced it.

Are the engines so bad? I was thinking of getting the new g30 550 or M5 next year but now I'm not so sure. I try to keep my cars 7-8yrs, but its seems those days are gone. Maybe since leasing has become so popular the cars are built for shorter term reliability???

Now I'm stuck whether to take the plunge on the new car or go elsewhere. Thoughts?
Sacrifice the power of the V8 for the reliability of the straight-6. The 0-60 times aren't that different and the power of the V8 is relatively useless in daily driving anyway.
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      01-19-2024, 08:07 PM   #42
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I got a new engine last year today the engine didn’t start we changed the battery nothing changed I think that is the reason why it won’t crank or start it’s an engine issue my dad will take it to a repair shop in Staten Island I hope he can find the problem for why it won’t start or crank.
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      01-19-2024, 09:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razfrankel View Post
I got a new engine last year today the engine didn’t start we changed the battery nothing changed I think that is the reason why it won’t crank or start it’s an engine issue my dad will take it to a repair shop in Staten Island I hope he can find the problem for why it won’t start or crank.
The N63s are very tempting, however, always do your research before deciding to go that route, N63TUs are more reliable compared to older years, however, be prepared for an absolute High Maintenance Garage Queen, (One way or another) I was very tempted at getting a 550i, and almost got a 540i, just went the happy medium and got an N55, at nearly at 90k miles, I am very satisfied with power delivery, coming from a JDM background, Being my first car a MK3 Supra Turbo, The N55s Power band, is way more than enough for the streets and highway, and the track (be mindful of oil starvation), I hope you have a great experience with the 550i and N63, they are for the most part, monster of an engine when taken proper care of.
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      01-21-2024, 03:35 PM   #44
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I think it’s the starter motor that’s the problem which is why it doesn’t start.
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