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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications Just ordered JB4
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      05-09-2017, 11:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by S1ammin View Post
Just installed my JB4 and BMS intake and all I can say is DAYUM!!!

Car is scary! I do not dare turn traction control off. Yet :-) Floor it from 30mph and it plants you into the seat really good. Things happen so fast that you can't watch anything but the road. This is a totally different car!
535 or 550?
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      05-09-2017, 11:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mikekilpatrick View Post
People have reached mid 11 second quarter miles with JB4 and some modest mods. You have to run higher octane for best times though

They are the only choice for pre TU f10 models as well. JB4 allows two maps to be turned on or off on the fly and allows you to istimise your own maps if you know what you are doing

At the track, I beat a Saleen mustang and three other hod rods in the quarter. You can achieve and surpass M5 stock power numbers with JB4.

Best money u will ever spend.
which 2 maps?
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      07-26-2017, 06:06 PM   #25
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JB4

S1ammin,
I just ordered my JB4 today. I ordered it from **********s. It is great getting some useful tips for the install from you guys. I am surprised that BMS has not made upgrades and added hardware for safer installation.
I also ordered the Bluetooth option so I can monitor data from my iPhone. Can't wait to for it to arrive so I can install it. I don't have plans yet for the charge pipe or down pipe. I don't want any red flags for the dealership.
What charge pipe did you go with? How does your car sound now with the added power? I have the M Sport exhaust on my car so I am wondering if it will give it more bark and sound better?
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      07-26-2017, 06:48 PM   #26
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The only mods I have are the JB4, BMS intake and SprintBooster. I've read a few different places that the 535 charge pipe doesn't have the hard angle like the CP on the 335 and do not seem to be prone to blowing up.

As far as sound, I really can't say I can notice a difference with the JB4 enabled vs. disabled (map0 or 4=disabled).

The install is pretty easy although I cheated a little. I didn't connect the Flex Fuel connection since I don't have access to flex fuel and also, I located the JB4 in the engine bay and just lying on top of the big intake tube. It's pretty secure there and makes for easy removal if I need to take it off for a dealer visit.

The only connection that was reasonable difficult was the PWG connection. Your car may be EWG so I don't know if it is as difficult to get your hands in there but on this car, it was a PITA. Also, running the CANBUS wire thru the firewall will require a coat hangar but it wasn't too bad.

Just be sure to disconnect the battery as instructed. I've read several times where someone didn't and wound up hosing their DME!

You're gonna love that extra power man. Makes the car feel so much lighter!
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      07-28-2017, 07:39 PM   #27
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JB4

Ok, had my mechanic install mine today. Install went pretty straight forward however he did not install the OBD cable that came with it. He said I shouldn't need to connect it to make it work. I didn't receive the bluetooth module yet so he said he could install BT when it arrived and then connect the OBD cable if I preferred to.
First few runs felt like the car was making great power and appeared to be very noticeable difference. Upon return to the shop I shut the car off and restarted it. At this time I noticed a "check engine light".
He cleared the codes and I ran it again. Car made good power and seemed to be running great. Same thing, after shut down and restart the light came on again.

He connected his $11K BMW scan tool and these codes came up;
1BC112 Zero=gear sensor, electrical: short circuit to B+
101F02 Intake pipe absolute pressure, plausibility: Pressure too low
105201 DME: Internal Fault (ambient pressure sensor, plausibility, overrrun:
Pressure too high)

Can anyone chime in and let me know what they think may be the reason it's triggering the check engine light?

The car seems to be running fine and makes good power but the "check engine light is on". I am not going to run it hard and weight for a resolution.

I am going to contact BMS and ask them what they believe the problem is?

Is it possible that the some or one of the connections are wrong? Maybe he connected them to the wrong plug? The JB4 did not come with installation instructions he used some from the internet but I am not sure if they were for the exact same unit and car. I would think that the plugs would have only work one way. Could they have sent me the wrong JB4 Unit?
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Last edited by BMW535MSPORT; 07-28-2017 at 07:59 PM..
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      07-28-2017, 11:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikekilpatrick View Post
Mine is a 550, but I am sure the install is similar on 535.

It is this simple... You can plug in the OBDII cable and have access to ALL functions of the BMS stage2 beta for boost increases and map choosing through the B/C control. If you want to add High performance Fuel option and the Waste gate control, you have to plug the wires into the ECU.

Removal takes about 30 minutes (Maybe less on a 6 cyl and you get better at it everytie you install) and MAKE SURE your battery is disconnected EVERY TIME you remove or install the BMS.

Basically, you plug into two harnesses (One on yours) to the front of both turbos on the 550, connect the OBDII port and good to go. If you want bluetooth and other features, you have to connect a wire in the blower motor area on passenger firewall, I suggest going to automotive store and getting a 2 to 1 fuse block which allows you to run the 20/30 amp fuse for the car and then a 10 amp fuse for the BMS. Keeps the car and BMS on different circuits that way.

The ECU install is fairly simple, but a little time consuming. Just double and TRIPLE check your wire numbers on the harnesses to make sure you have the right connections done. If not, you might throw a code. If that happens, disconnect battery and go back and double check your wires.

I would ALWAYS remove the BMS to ANY dealer before service. JUST to make sure you dont run into any problems. Once removed, there is no evidence of the mod.
I also just bought the JB4 stage 2 for my N63 engine. Do you have any step by step instruction to install it and how do I install the BCM wire.
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      07-29-2017, 02:52 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW535MSPORT View Post
Ok, had my mechanic install mine today. Install went pretty straight forward however he did not install the OBD cable that came with it. He said I shouldn't need to connect it to make it work. I didn't receive the bluetooth module yet so he said he could install BT when it arrived and then connect the OBD cable if I preferred to.
First few runs felt like the car was making great power and appeared to be very noticeable difference. Upon return to the shop I shut the car off and restarted it. At this time I noticed a "check engine light".
He cleared the codes and I ran it again. Car made good power and seemed to be running great. Same thing, after shut down and restart the light came on again.

He connected his $11K BMW scan tool and these codes came up;
1BC112 Zero=gear sensor, electrical: short circuit to B+
101F02 Intake pipe absolute pressure, plausibility: Pressure too low
105201 DME: Internal Fault (ambient pressure sensor, plausibility, overrrun:
Pressure too high)

Can anyone chime in and let me know what they think may be the reason it's triggering the check engine light?

The car seems to be running fine and makes good power but the "check engine light is on". I am not going to run it hard and weight for a resolution.

I am going to contact BMS and ask them what they believe the problem is?

Is it possible that the some or one of the connections are wrong? Maybe he connected them to the wrong plug? The JB4 did not come with installation instructions he used some from the internet but I am not sure if they were for the exact same unit and car. I would think that the plugs would have only work one way. Could they have sent me the wrong JB4 Unit?
Hmm, the latest JB4 firmware will cause a CEL for USA if you have catless DP or if you remove the MAF connection. Also, if you do not connect the OBDII cable, the JB4 will be restricted to MAP1 only and you cannot do logs. You also won't get all the data available via BT on the iPhone app. You WANT that cable connected.

Definitely head over to http://www.n54tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16 about those codes.

Also, if your mechanic did not connect power to the JB4 like http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47317 , you will get a battery drain warning after letting the car sit for a day or two.

I've also seen connection instruction for our car floating around that are totally wrong! The guys at n54 will be able to help though.
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      08-04-2017, 03:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikekilpatrick View Post
Mine is a 550, but I am sure the install is similar on 535.

It is this simple... You can plug in the OBDII cable and have access to ALL functions of the BMS stage2 beta for boost increases and map choosing through the B/C control. If you want to add High performance Fuel option and the Waste gate control, you have to plug the wires into the ECU.

Removal takes about 30 minutes (Maybe less on a 6 cyl and you get better at it everytie you install) and MAKE SURE your battery is disconnected EVERY TIME you remove or install the BMS.

Basically, you plug into two harnesses (One on yours) to the front of both turbos on the 550, connect the OBDII port and good to go. If you want bluetooth and other features, you have to connect a wire in the blower motor area on passenger firewall, I suggest going to automotive store and getting a 2 to 1 fuse block which allows you to run the 20/30 amp fuse for the car and then a 10 amp fuse for the BMS. Keeps the car and BMS on different circuits that way.

The ECU install is fairly simple, but a little time consuming. Just double and TRIPLE check your wire numbers on the harnesses to make sure you have the right connections done. If not, you might throw a code. If that happens, disconnect battery and go back and double check your wires.

I would ALWAYS remove the BMS to ANY dealer before service. JUST to make sure you dont run into any problems. Once removed, there is no evidence of the mod.
This is good to know, I'm about to pull the trigger on a JB4
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      08-06-2017, 04:02 PM   #31
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Ah I've been watching this thread since my performance mods now begin. I thought just a simple JB would be fine but whats really the advantage of the JB4 over just the JB? I'll probably have to do some more research like what's the point for data logging? Is there only 2 maps? Do i really need the BT option. Can i just plug the JB4 and call it a day or do you guys really need the option to change maps?
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      08-07-2017, 10:32 AM   #32
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JB+ and JB4 are your options. The JB+ is the easiest to install since it just plugs into your TMAP. Two minute install. It essentially runs as MAP1 on a JB4 but I've heard some say that the JB4 on MAP1 has a smoother power delivery. This may be due to the JB4 having more knobs that can tweak different parameters of any given map. Also, JB+ is limited to 3 or 4 psi over stock.

JB4 has several maps plus the ability to create custom maps. The extra maps make it possible for you to get more power, depending on supporting mods, fuel used, etc.

The BT option is nice with JB4. You can make all of your adjustments, update firmware and email logs, using the IOS or Android app on your phone.

As far as logging, I think if you use JB4 on any map other than map1, you will want logging. Even on map 1, if you are wanting to run some E85 mix, you will want logs to ensure you aren't stressing your fuel pumps and/or leaning out AFR.

But, if you are stock and have no plans to ever go catless or any other power mods, the JB+ might be better for you.
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      08-08-2017, 03:22 PM   #33
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There is a TON of wrong info here regarding JB4 install on an F10/535i. Power for the JB4 itself can be done simply by tapping on the the wires in the engine bay (Not to the fuse box) to provide switched 12V power. Second, the BT Module should be using one of the JB4 5V Red Wires from the harness for power, NOT a 12V connection.

There is no direct ECU connection for JB4, everything is done through OBD II, so this is required. The old Positaps method of getting ECU data is no longer supported on any current JB4 firmware.

The following thread has plenty of info regarding the install, check out the last 2 pages for the switched wire in the engine bay to use.

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47317
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      09-15-2017, 09:53 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-MCRacer View Post
There is a TON of wrong info here regarding JB4 install on an F10/535i. Power for the JB4 itself can be done simply by tapping on the the wires in the engine bay (Not to the fuse box) to provide switched 12V power. Second, the BT Module should be using one of the JB4 5V Red Wires from the harness for power, NOT a 12V connection.

There is no direct ECU connection for JB4, everything is done through OBD II, so this is required. The old Positaps method of getting ECU data is no longer supported on any current JB4 firmware.

The following thread has plenty of info regarding the install, check out the last 2 pages for the switched wire in the engine bay to use.

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47317
+1

My buddy with X5 35i, DP, Backend Flash/JB4 just got the "1BC112 Zero Gear Sensor, electrical: Short circuit to positive or open circuit" but hes been running his setup for a few months now. Not sure what made it trigger for him.
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      09-15-2017, 06:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSociety View Post
+1

My buddy with X5 35i, DP, Backend Flash/JB4 just got the "1BC112 Zero Gear Sensor, electrical: Short circuit to positive or open circuit" but hes been running his setup for a few months now. Not sure what made it trigger for him.
Pretty sure that electrical log entry happens when right after you get a battery drain warning. I used to get that when I had my JB4 and BT connected to a non-switched power source.
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      02-13-2018, 03:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
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It will work but it will be locked on Map 1. Might as well do the obd2 install when your doing the jb4, its very easy.
the OBD 2 is to change MAPs ccorrect?
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      02-13-2018, 05:50 PM   #37
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The JB4, Bluetooth, and intake are well worth it for the 535i. They transformed my 5 into my own racecar.

Your driving habits will undeniably shift once you can see and hear 15 psi launching you forward.

... local tuners can always give you some dealer tips for a free pizza.

OBDII is for logging and I always have it plugged in. You can't even notice the wire when you're looking for it.
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      02-22-2018, 07:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollar Bill 535 View Post
The JB4, Bluetooth, and intake are well worth it for the 535i. They transformed my 5 into my own racecar.

Your driving habits will undeniably shift once you can see and hear 15 psi launching you forward.

... local tuners can always give you some dealer tips for a free pizza.

OBDII is for logging and I always have it plugged in. You can't even notice the wire when you're looking for it.
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