Some tips on removing/repairing an F10 side mirror

Breach · 03-02-2016, 02:04 PM

Sorry, I don't have any photos, but I am just finally done with replacing my side mirror's left top view camera and HSD wire (1 hour 30 minutes) and would like to share some tips based on my own errors and experience.

Note that the F10 mirrors come in different shapes and forms - these instructions are for a pre-LCI folding dimming/heated mirror with top view and lane change warning. I was changing the left-hand side mirror, so if you're working on the other side obviously left would be right and right would be left. No warranty - don't blame me if you break something. ;-)

Mirror

If you're just replacing the cap, the glass, the lower housing or the top view camera there's no need to remove the entire mirror assembly.

Fair warning: Don't start by pulling on the mirror cap itself - it seems like the thing to do, but the way the clips are designed you'll break them.

1. Always start by removing the glass - best to use a towel and a plastic pry tool - just move the glass manually to one side as far as it goes, dig in with the pry tool wrapped in a towel and push gently but firmly - it will pop right out - make sure you're holding it with your other hand so that it doesn't fall and shatter. If you have a dimming/heating glass there's a connector to disconnect first. Then put away.

2. Next remove the plastic mirror actuator - it's held into place by a single long screw (sorry, Torx something needed). Once the screw is out just pull firmly to disconnect from the electric connector and put aside.

3. Next comes the middle frame - it's held into place by several screws (same torx something), 4 or 5 I think.

If you have Lane Change Warning you'd disconnect the cable at this stage which can be a bit tricky, but if you pull on the frame with the connector still attached you'll unglue it (that's right, the LWD light is screwed and latched, but primarily held into place by glue).

4. At this stage you should be able to gently remove the mirror cap - there are two latches you need unclip with a small screwdriver, and then a few more on the top you can unlatch with a plastic pry tool - be extra careful at this stage as they're quite easy to break. Then you pull up. Here's a picture from ISTA in this regard:

If you're replacing a Top View camera you can stop here - disconnect the HSD cable (unlatch and pull moving it gently up and left and right). The top view camera is held into the lower hosing by two screws (same torx something).

5. If you're removing the lower mirror housing you need'd to unscrew 2 or 3 screws (same torx something). Now, the lower section is a bit tricky to remove just pull left and right until the its plastic sockets come out of the metal frame.

Reinstalling is similarly tricky and takes some time - note that the plastic front screw holder front comes on top of a small rivet.

Side note on the lower housing: Mine was a bit scratched so I ordered a new one - to my surprise I received a matte one and my original one was piano black even though I didn't have SHADOW LINE. So if matte - order non-shadow line, if piano black - order the shadow line version.

Re-assemble in reverse order - when putting back on the mirror cap just slide it back down until it clicks - you'd still need to push the top central latch in with a plastic tool though.

Now, if you are removing the entire mirror assembly (meaning everything + the triangle and the wiring connector) you would need to remove the door panel. It's not hard, but takes time and is a bit tricky. Also, if you know you are removing the whole mirror assembly I suggest you start with removing the door panel - you can then work on the mirror separately.

1. First step - remove the tweeter - easiest is to pull up the plastic seal which goes on the lip and then kind of pull the tweeter towards the windshield. I can't exactly give good instructions here, but it's not complicated. Don't disconnect, but tug it away and clear the wires from the panel as much as possible.

2. Next - removing the door trim - that's rather easy - grab it at the lower right corner (there's a small indent you can feel) and pull towards you gently - it will come right off, but not completely - there are two metal clips you have to unclip. No major dangers here - just don't tear it away with force.

3. Next, remove the plastic panel for the door handle - in my case it was a major pain as it wouldn't come off on one side. Just work it on both sides. Absolutely make sure you use plastic tools for this job or you'll damage the door trim!

4. The reason you had to go through all that trouble is that the door panel is held by two T30 screws you have to remove first.

5. After you do that you need to pull on the door panel to unclip the plastic clips it's additionally held by. I found it easiest to start on the left side, mid-section. You'd need to apply some force here - make sure you don't pull at one place, but rather grab a section at a time. This is a bit scary, but pretty easy actually. Never start on the top of the door panel though, unclip left/bottom/right side first. Once the door is free from the clips push it up to free the door lock rod and gently pull away.

Note: In the process some of the little black grommets may fall off the clips - collect them and put back on.

Now, here's my mistake - I pulled away too hard and broke the door latch rod. Technically not the rod, but rather the plastic clip which connects the rod to the latch. I had to spend 15 bucks on buying a second hand latch from an E series just for that small clip. Don't make the same mistake and be extra careful with the door lock rod. (side note: this whole mechanism is so cheap and it's rather unBMWish ;-)

You don't have to disconnect the door electrical harness, you can rotate the door so that the panel doesn't hang on the wires and put down. Anyway, be careful that it doesn't fall and tear away the wires.

6. Next, disconnect the harness from the mirror socket (it's a blue socket in my case).

7. You can now proceed with unscrewing the mirror assembly. There are 3 T30 torx screws, but one of them is hidden behind the rubber sealing. I'd start with removing this one. Once you reach the last screw while unscrewing it hold the mirror assembly with one hand so that it doesn't fall off.

That's it. You can now remove the mirror assembly and work on it separately.

Reassembly: Proceed in reverse order. Some important tips about putting back the door panel:

1. Check that your harness wires are clear from any contact points.
2. Don't put in the tweeter until after you have installed the door panel- if you do you won't be able to properly install the door panel. Installing the tweeter afterwards is a bit of a PITA, but doable.
3. What's important is to first align the panel so that its upper lips falls in a slot at the top of the door. You have to manage that while making sure that the door lock rod goes in where it should. Another PITA. If you fail to align it in the slot you can still lock the panel into place, but you'll have gaps on both sides of the panel/door. Once the panel is firmly and tightly install at top level push hard along the edges of the panel and make sure all clips are locked.

That's it. Hope this is useful to somebody out there. Long post and I probably made ton of mistake - apologies.

EL Jeffe 5 · 03-08-2016, 11:27 AM

This is awesome Thanks man pretty sure people will find this useful

lsturbointeg · 03-08-2016, 10:48 PM

AWESOME write up!

Would have been sweet with photos

Jcbama85 · 03-10-2016, 07:12 PM

I'm glad I didn't have to take off the mirrors when I did my stage 1 upgrade. Thanks for sharing.

lsturbointeg · 08-07-2016, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jcbama85

I'm glad I didn't have to take off the mirrors when I did my stage 1 upgrade. Thanks for sharing.

trying to understand this part. Am I tilting the mirror itself down to wedge a plastic tool behind than applying some force until the mirror eventually releases or snaps off?

. Always start by removing the glass - best to use a towel and a plastic pry tool - just move the glass manually to one side as far as it goes, dig in with the pry tool wrapped in a towel and push gently but firmly - it will pop right out - make sure you're holding it with your other hand so that it doesn't fall and shatter.

Breach · 10-01-2016, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

trying to understand this part. Am I tilting the mirror itself down to wedge a plastic tool behind than applying some force until the mirror eventually releases or snaps off?

. Always start by removing the glass - best to use a towel and a plastic pry tool - just move the glass manually to one side as far as it goes, dig in with the pry tool wrapped in a towel and push gently but firmly - it will pop right out - make sure you're holding it with your other hand so that it doesn't fall and shatter.

Sorry, just saw this. No, not the whole assembly - you're tilting the glass itself to one side to get some clearance on the opposite - that's where you'd insert your pry tool. Then you'd push the glass from the back so that it disconnects.

lsturbointeg · 10-03-2016, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Breach

Sorry, just saw this. No, not the whole assembly - you're tilting the glass itself to one side to get some clearance on the opposite - that's where you'd insert your pry tool. Then you'd push the glass from the back so that it disconnects.

thanks! i was able to figure this out when i wrapped my mirror caps!

cyrus0608 · 07-14-2018, 03:29 PM

Dear all,

I get a issue which driver door master switch, seat memory, both side mirror's adjustment, power folding and block switch(without green LED) all of them are non-functioning after installed the retrofit side repeater onto both side mirrors.
furthermore, when i try to takeoff those mirrors, both of them were broken.

I was started process from the passenger door, Power window and mirror folding on both side were fine after installation, except the mirror glass, then continue the other one after dinner (about 20 minutes later).

The issue happened after the last installaion, repeaters on both side were perfect, but the above said switches were non-functioning anymore, even i have been brought those mirrors back.

i have been checked the fuse, re-plug all joints behide the door panel, it still not working. It happened only on the driver's side door, (rear left, rear right and passenger switch were fine).

The last method to open & close window by pressing the key were also fine.

How can i fix all function switches back to normal?

Much thanks for helping me!!!

Cyrus

Model: F10 520d 2016 RHD

03-02-2016, 02:04 PM	#1
Breach First Lieutenant 80 Rep 373 Posts Drives: F10 520dA M Sport Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: EU iTrader: (0)	Some tips on removing/repairing an F10 side mirror Sorry, I don't have any photos, but I am just finally done with replacing my side mirror's left top view camera and HSD wire (1 hour 30 minutes) and would like to share some tips based on my own errors and experience. Note that the F10 mirrors come in different shapes and forms - these instructions are for a pre-LCI folding dimming/heated mirror with top view and lane change warning. I was changing the left-hand side mirror, so if you're working on the other side obviously left would be right and right would be left. No warranty - don't blame me if you break something. ;-) Mirror If you're just replacing the cap, the glass, the lower housing or the top view camera there's no need to remove the entire mirror assembly. Fair warning: Don't start by pulling on the mirror cap itself - it seems like the thing to do, but the way the clips are designed you'll break them. 1. Always start by removing the glass - best to use a towel and a plastic pry tool - just move the glass manually to one side as far as it goes, dig in with the pry tool wrapped in a towel and push gently but firmly - it will pop right out - make sure you're holding it with your other hand so that it doesn't fall and shatter. If you have a dimming/heating glass there's a connector to disconnect first. Then put away. 2. Next remove the plastic mirror actuator - it's held into place by a single long screw (sorry, Torx something needed). Once the screw is out just pull firmly to disconnect from the electric connector and put aside. 3. Next comes the middle frame - it's held into place by several screws (same torx something), 4 or 5 I think. If you have Lane Change Warning you'd disconnect the cable at this stage which can be a bit tricky, but if you pull on the frame with the connector still attached you'll unglue it (that's right, the LWD light is screwed and latched, but primarily held into place by glue). 4. At this stage you should be able to gently remove the mirror cap - there are two latches you need unclip with a small screwdriver, and then a few more on the top you can unlatch with a plastic pry tool - be extra careful at this stage as they're quite easy to break. Then you pull up. Here's a picture from ISTA in this regard: If you're replacing a Top View camera you can stop here - disconnect the HSD cable (unlatch and pull moving it gently up and left and right). The top view camera is held into the lower hosing by two screws (same torx something). 5. If you're removing the lower mirror housing you need'd to unscrew 2 or 3 screws (same torx something). Now, the lower section is a bit tricky to remove just pull left and right until the its plastic sockets come out of the metal frame. Reinstalling is similarly tricky and takes some time - note that the plastic front screw holder front comes on top of a small rivet. Side note on the lower housing: Mine was a bit scratched so I ordered a new one - to my surprise I received a matte one and my original one was piano black even though I didn't have SHADOW LINE. So if matte - order non-shadow line, if piano black - order the shadow line version. Re-assemble in reverse order - when putting back on the mirror cap just slide it back down until it clicks - you'd still need to push the top central latch in with a plastic tool though. Now, if you are removing the entire mirror assembly (meaning everything + the triangle and the wiring connector) you would need to remove the door panel. It's not hard, but takes time and is a bit tricky. Also, if you know you are removing the whole mirror assembly I suggest you start with removing the door panel - you can then work on the mirror separately. 1. First step - remove the tweeter - easiest is to pull up the plastic seal which goes on the lip and then kind of pull the tweeter towards the windshield. I can't exactly give good instructions here, but it's not complicated. Don't disconnect, but tug it away and clear the wires from the panel as much as possible. 2. Next - removing the door trim - that's rather easy - grab it at the lower right corner (there's a small indent you can feel) and pull towards you gently - it will come right off, but not completely - there are two metal clips you have to unclip. No major dangers here - just don't tear it away with force. 3. Next, remove the plastic panel for the door handle - in my case it was a major pain as it wouldn't come off on one side. Just work it on both sides. Absolutely make sure you use plastic tools for this job or you'll damage the door trim! 4. The reason you had to go through all that trouble is that the door panel is held by two T30 screws you have to remove first. 5. After you do that you need to pull on the door panel to unclip the plastic clips it's additionally held by. I found it easiest to start on the left side, mid-section. You'd need to apply some force here - make sure you don't pull at one place, but rather grab a section at a time. This is a bit scary, but pretty easy actually. Never start on the top of the door panel though, unclip left/bottom/right side first. Once the door is free from the clips push it up to free the door lock rod and gently pull away. Note: In the process some of the little black grommets may fall off the clips - collect them and put back on. Now, here's my mistake - I pulled away too hard and broke the door latch rod. Technically not the rod, but rather the plastic clip which connects the rod to the latch. I had to spend 15 bucks on buying a second hand latch from an E series just for that small clip. Don't make the same mistake and be extra careful with the door lock rod. (side note: this whole mechanism is so cheap and it's rather unBMWish ;-) You don't have to disconnect the door electrical harness, you can rotate the door so that the panel doesn't hang on the wires and put down. Anyway, be careful that it doesn't fall and tear away the wires. 6. Next, disconnect the harness from the mirror socket (it's a blue socket in my case). 7. You can now proceed with unscrewing the mirror assembly. There are 3 T30 torx screws, but one of them is hidden behind the rubber sealing. I'd start with removing this one. Once you reach the last screw while unscrewing it hold the mirror assembly with one hand so that it doesn't fall off. That's it. You can now remove the mirror assembly and work on it separately. Reassembly: Proceed in reverse order. Some important tips about putting back the door panel: 1. Check that your harness wires are clear from any contact points. 2. Don't put in the tweeter until after you have installed the door panel- if you do you won't be able to properly install the door panel. Installing the tweeter afterwards is a bit of a PITA, but doable. 3. What's important is to first align the panel so that its upper lips falls in a slot at the top of the door. You have to manage that while making sure that the door lock rod goes in where it should. Another PITA. If you fail to align it in the slot you can still lock the panel into place, but you'll have gaps on both sides of the panel/door. Once the panel is firmly and tightly install at top level push hard along the edges of the panel and make sure all clips are locked. That's it. Hope this is useful to somebody out there. Long post and I probably made ton of mistake - apologies. Last edited by Breach; 03-02-2016 at 04:55 PM..
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03-08-2016, 11:27 AM	#2
EL Jeffe 5 Major 612 Rep 1,254 Posts Drives: CBR1000RR Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Iowa iTrader: (0)	This is awesome Thanks man pretty sure people will find this useful
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03-08-2016, 10:48 PM	#3
lsturbointeg Lieutenant General 9153 Rep 14,522 Posts Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Asian lost in OH iTrader: (0)	AWESOME write up! Would have been sweet with photos __________________ ~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~ Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg
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03-10-2016, 07:12 PM	#4
Jcbama85 Second Lieutenant 115 Rep 258 Posts Drives: 2013 528i Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Katy, Texas iTrader: (0)	I'm glad I didn't have to take off the mirrors when I did my stage 1 upgrade. Thanks for sharing. __________________ 2013 528i Silver with Black interior "Tallulah" Black Kidney Grills Bavsound Stage 1 upgrade BimmerTech Amp
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07-14-2018, 03:29 PM	#8
cyrus0608 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: F10 520D Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Hong Kong iTrader: (0)	Dear all, I get a issue which driver door master switch, seat memory, both side mirror's adjustment, power folding and block switch(without green LED) all of them are non-functioning after installed the retrofit side repeater onto both side mirrors. furthermore, when i try to takeoff those mirrors, both of them were broken. I was started process from the passenger door, Power window and mirror folding on both side were fine after installation, except the mirror glass, then continue the other one after dinner (about 20 minutes later). The issue happened after the last installaion, repeaters on both side were perfect, but the above said switches were non-functioning anymore, even i have been brought those mirrors back. i have been checked the fuse, re-plug all joints behide the door panel, it still not working. It happened only on the driver's side door, (rear left, rear right and passenger switch were fine). The last method to open & close window by pressing the key were also fine. How can i fix all function switches back to normal? Much thanks for helping me!!! Cyrus Model: F10 520d 2016 RHD
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