[mbworldz]

Afternoon everyone, hope someone can give me some advice what to do. Car was driving fine yesterday , then later when I tried to disarm and unlock the door, all four locks don't work at all. Everytime I press the unlock button, I hear a wining motor noise, (the one control the locking device I guess).

I tried pull the manual key and open it manually, no luck, the stick on door goes up a little only but door won't unlock. I can't open all 4 windows that's all.

Is there way I can unlock the door at least. I guess right now, I can only climb in the car lol.

[ChiNorm]

Can you unlock any door from inside the car? Or, what happens when you use the unlock button on the dash. I had similar symptoms earlier this year when an actuator failed.

Good luck.

[mbworldz]

Originally Posted by ChiNorm

Can you unlock any door from inside the car? Or, what happens when you use the unlock button on the dash. I had similar symptoms earlier this year when an actuator failed.

Good luck.

I can't open any door. When pressing the unlock button, you will hear the same noise as the video. I just climbed inside the car, my back hurt LOL., Not young anymore. And only tiny room for me to check the fuse box in passenger side. I don't see any blown fuses. Probably like you said the actuator failed.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by mbworldz

I can't open any door. When pressing the unlock button, you will hear the same noise as the video. I just climbed inside the car, my back hurt LOL., Not young anymore. And only tiny room for me to check the fuse box in passenger side. I don't see any blown fuses. Probably like you said the actuator failed.

I think one of Chinorm's points is that there isn't ONE actuator, there is one in every door, and what you've stated is that "suddenly" NO doors unlock. The probability that ALL FOUR of your actuators failed at the same instant is pretty much zero.

Have you tried to locate the 'whining'? It may be completely unrelated to the doors - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic motor sweeping when the unlock button is pressed etc...

You say you've tried the mechanical key - have you turned it far enough? Again, it's possible that some kind of driver's door latch failure could interfere with both electric and mechanical operation of the locking mechanism you would not have lost ALL FOUR DOORS because of that. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the power doors, then when you turn it farther it uses a mechanical linkage that would work when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it's sticky)

Personally, I recommend that every owner familiarize themselves with how the mechanical override key works and feels before they absolutely require it. You can also determine if it needs lubrication that way.

Are you positive the battery is in good shape? Checked the fuses in the trunk?

[mbworldz]

I have the same feeling too, how could all 4 actuators mailfunction at the same time. In fact, that morning I drove to a close by ATM and came home. Later on at lunch when I head out, I can't open the door.

I climbed inside the car and check the fuse box from the passenger side, oh boy, that spot is tight , I got no room to check the top fuses. I got to see a few only.

The noise is coming from the trunk , close by the fuse box. That's where I find the loudest.

Originally Posted by Surly73

I think one of Chinorm's points is that there isn't ONE actuator, there is one in every door, and what you've stated is that "suddenly" NO doors unlock. The probability that ALL FOUR of your actuators failed at the same instant is pretty much zero.

Have you tried to locate the 'whining'? It may be completely unrelated to the doors - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic motor sweeping when the unlock button is pressed etc...

You say you've tried the mechanical key - have you turned it far enough? Again, it's possible that some kind of driver's door latch failure could interfere with both electric and mechanical operation of the locking mechanism you would not have lost ALL FOUR DOORS because of that. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the power doors, then when you turn it farther it uses a mechanical linkage that would work when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it's sticky)

Personally, I recommend that every owner familiarize themselves with how the mechanical override key works and feels before they absolutely require it. You can also determine if it needs lubrication that way.

Are you positive the battery is in good shape? Checked the fuses in the trunk?

[ceka]

Have you tried the convenience key feature?
Press unlock on the remote until all windows roll down.
Then press the lock again to see if the car locks with the beep

[Qsilver7]

I tried pull the manual key and open it manually, no luck, the stick on door goes up a little only but door won't unlock. I can't open all 4 windows that's all.

Is there way I can unlock the door at least. I guess right now, I can only climb in the car lol.

Can you clear the bolded text up? I can't tell if you CAN roll the windows down or CAN NOT roll the windows down. You infer that you can't, but then say you can only clime into the car.

If you can roll the windows down, then why not just place the fob inside the cabin, and reach in and press the START button. When the engine is running, you should be able to open any of the doors or trunk. If the car's battery is discharged so low that it won't start the engine, you can pop the hood and hook up jumper cables or a battery charger to the terminals in the engine bay.

If you couldn't open the driver's door with the metal keyblade...you may not be using it correctly.

The manual door lock cylinder in the driver's door should lock/unlock the door when the blade is inserted and turned to the correct position. It may need to be turned further than what you think since you are manually unlocking the door.

Or...you may need to spray a lubricant inside the lock cylinder if you've never did any maintenance on the manual lock cylinder...dirt/dust/grime can gum up the works.

I suggest trying the manual unlock procedure BMW designed for access when there's no power...and again, make sure you are turning the key fully counter-clockwise (if you're LHD) to manually unlock the driver's door.

Then check the remotes battery to make sure its not discharged...and also check your car's main battery...especially if you don't know how old it is.

[mbworldz]

Hi Qsilver7, the manual blade key is working fine. I have used that a month ago.

This morning I noticed that my fuel door is not closed tight. and stick open a little. And when I put pressure to close it and pressing the unlock button on the remote, I can hear different tones on the motor. I am suspecting it might be some problem from the fuel door causing it.

My main question now is, for 2011 F10 5 series, is there a way to open the fuel door manually?

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

If you couldn't open the driver's door with the metal keyblade...you may not be using it correctly.

The manual door lock cylinder in the driver's door should lock/unlock the door when the blade is inserted and turned to the correct position. It may need to be turned further than what you think since you are manually unlocking the door.

Or...you may need to spray a lubricant inside the lock cylinder if you've never did any maintenance on the manual lock cylinder...dirt/dust/grime can gum up the works.

I suggest trying the manual unlock procedure BMW designed for access when there's no power...and again, make sure you are turning the key fully counter-clockwise (if you're LHD) to manually unlock the driver's door.

Then check the remotes battery to make sure its not discharged...and also check your car's main battery...especially if you don't know how old it is.

[mbworldz]

I started to think the problem could be the "Filler flap actuator"
The noise is very close to that area. And the fuel door is not close tight.

I read other youtube videos, some older bmw has the green strip to pull, But I don't see anything to release it manually. Do you know when will that Pulling strip f emergency mechanism located?

Cause like you said it doesn't make sense to have all 4 door actuators malfunction at the same time.

Originally Posted by Surly73

I think one of Chinorm's points is that there isn't ONE actuator, there is one in every door, and what you've stated is that "suddenly" NO doors unlock. The probability that ALL FOUR of your actuators failed at the same instant is pretty much zero.

Have you tried to locate the 'whining'? It may be completely unrelated to the doors - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic motor sweeping when the unlock button is pressed etc...

You say you've tried the mechanical key - have you turned it far enough? Again, it's possible that some kind of driver's door latch failure could interfere with both electric and mechanical operation of the locking mechanism you would not have lost ALL FOUR DOORS because of that. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the power doors, then when you turn it farther it uses a mechanical linkage that would work when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it's sticky)

Personally, I recommend that every owner familiarize themselves with how the mechanical override key works and feels before they absolutely require it. You can also determine if it needs lubrication that way.

Are you positive the battery is in good shape? Checked the fuses in the trunk?

[Qsilver7]

Does the paperback owners manual or the manual embedded in iDrive give any description where the fuel filler flap emergency release cable is locate?

I have a pic from my f15...and you can see the green tab at the end of the cable tucked up in the rear fuse box...its just above the folded up fuse index chart. I hope BMW hasn't removed it from some models:

F15 X5

[mbworldz]

I don't have any green tab on my 2011 F10 535i.

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Does the paperback owners manual or the manual embedded in iDrive give any description where the fuel filler flap emergency release cable is locate?

I have a pic from my f15...and you can see the green tab at the end of the cable tucked up in the rear fuse box...its just above the folded up fuse index chart:

F15 X5

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by mbworldz

The noise is coming from the trunk , close by the fuse box. That's where I find the loudest.

That sounds more like where the fuel door lock actuator is.

You never mentioned checking the fuses in the trunk, which I asked about, but you seem to know that there are fuses there based on this comment....

Back in my E39 days, the fuel door latch mechanism tended to fail, blowing the central locking fuse as a result. Don't think I've heard anything similar for F10s.

Have you tried turning the mechanical key harder? Again, I'd be checking those trunk fuses.

[ceka]

The video he posted is the fuse box on the trunk.

I guess he roll down the windows by pressing the unlock on the remote.. funny thing is the trunk opens but not all 4 doors.

Originally Posted by Surly73

That sounds more like where the fuel door lock actuator is.

You never mentioned checking the fuses in the trunk, which I asked about, but you seem to know that there are fuses there based on this comment....

Back in my E39 days, the fuel door latch mechanism tended to fail, blowing the central locking fuse as a result. Don't think I've heard anything similar for F10s.

Have you tried turning the mechanical key harder? Again, I'd be checking those trunk fuses.

[mbworldz]

No, the key fob doesn't work at all, I use the blade key to manually roll the the windows.

The trunk work individually. You can open the trunk without unlock the doors first.

Originally Posted by ceka

The video he posted is the fuse box on the trunk.

I guess he roll down the windows by pressing the unlock on the remote.. funny thing is the trunk opens but not all 4 doors.

[chipguy]

I recently had issues with my trunk lock, thinking it was the actuator. I used ISTA and went into the FRM module and did a reset and everything is working so far.

Do you have ISTA? Do you have a scanner that can read BMW codes?

[mbworldz]

I don't have ISTA, I have the the program called ProTool to check for codes and other stuffs. What about E-sys? I have this program. But don't know how to reset that the footwell module.

Originally Posted by chipguy

I recently had issues with my trunk lock, thinking it was the actuator. I used ISTA and went into the FRM module and did a reset and everything is working so far.

Do you have ISTA? Do you have a scanner that can read BMW codes?

[chipguy]

Is ProTool capable of reading BMW codes? I use Esys for coding and I believe it cannot read codes.

Another way to reset the FRM is disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Of course, make sure you don't close the trunk in the process.

[mbworldz]

Yes, it can read code, erase..... Very powerful tools.

I have tried to disconnect the battery and waited 30 mins. still the same.

Originally Posted by chipguy

Is ProTool capable of reading BMW codes? I use Esys for coding and I believe it cannot read codes.

Another way to reset the FRM is disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Of course, make sure you don't close the trunk in the process.

[ceka]

Any updates on yout issue?
fixed??

Originally Posted by mbworldz

Yes, it can read code, erase..... Very powerful tools.

I have tried to disconnect the battery and waited 30 mins. still the same.

[mbworldz]

Still no luck :-(

Originally Posted by ceka

Any updates on yout issue?
fixed??