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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW F10 535i Coolant Flush DIY |
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05-12-2020, 09:59 PM | #23 |
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I don't understand. You make you're own method of flushing the cooling system by adding and changing bits of my process and the you say you don't like this process (my process) at all. I mean idk what else to say. There advantages and disadvantages to each method. My viewpoint is that it makes flushing the coolant much easier and efficient given that you only need to worry about remove one hose into a bucket. Remove the lower Rad hose is in my opinion simply working harder for no reason. My coolant mix is properly mixed and the pump was never filling air nor being starved. I have had my my patience filled with BMWs simply flat out saying the wrong advice to people (such as well known "lifetime fluid" myth). I appreciate the skepticism u carry but damn my guy i don't appreciate someone telling me that my process is wrong when it has in fact done me wonders.
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05-12-2020, 10:13 PM | #24 |
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In case anyone doesn't still understand. In my process you keep the engine running. This is so that the coolant warms up and thus the thermostat allows the coolant to pass through the entire system. The coolant will be pump through all passages in the system so that the engine won't overheat obviously. It makes no sense that some passages of coolant will have no flow given that the pump determines the flow speed of the coolant. This is why I encourage everyone to KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING. Coolant, no matter where it is in the cooling system must pass through the radiator in order to be cooled and recirculated, therefore there will be not be "parts of the cooling system not being flushed". The bleeding process in accesory mode is done in parts so that each section had air removed. Like I said, I handled the process in the fashion that I listed above and everything has went well. Perfect mixture of coolant and no pumps running dry.
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05-12-2020, 10:24 PM | #25 | |
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I never said your pump got starved, not sure why you brought that up. Nor did I ever say your process was wrong. You're being strangely defensive/possessive over nothing my dude.
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05-12-2020, 10:34 PM | #26 |
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Like I said my guy, I appreciate your skepticism. But I don't understand your need to change things up. Lmao and there's nothing defensive or protective with my responses. I just don't want people to to get things mixed up with your process and my process.
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05-12-2020, 10:43 PM | #27 | |
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You sounded very defensive in your initial response :shrug:
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05-12-2020, 10:45 PM | #28 |
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Running the engine will create enough heat given that the car will idle and heat up to operating temperature. I started flushing mine when the car was at operating temperature
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05-12-2020, 10:51 PM | #29 |
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Opening the hood lets a TON of heat just radiate away passively.
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05-13-2020, 10:21 PM | #30 | |
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05-13-2020, 11:50 PM | #31 | |
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Not sure how you expect people to be able to add distilled water to the system and monitor coolant level with the hood closed most of the way, but ok.
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05-14-2020, 12:17 AM | #32 | ||
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05-16-2020, 11:05 AM | #33 | |
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Last edited by Surly73; 05-16-2020 at 11:14 AM.. |
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02-03-2021, 02:22 AM | #34 | |
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Thanks for this post, it really helped. I just finished doing a flush and filled with new coolant today. It was very straight forward. Just to offer my feedback to help the next person I bought 1 metre of 25mm (sorry from Australia only know metric..) ID clear hose and stretched the end a bit using an old coil and boiling water. If fit nicely over the return hose. I clamped the hose and one thing I found useful was to plug the outlet where the hose was taken off from. This just stops any liquid running out over the engine. I pretty much followed your instructions except I flushed it with 10l of demineralised water and then filled it with 10 l of mixed coolant. I found that after about 2 litres the water that was running out of the hose was starting to turn blue so it probably makes sense to just fill 5l of coolant concentrate into the system and reconnect the hose after that is done. I did go through the bleeding process but the level didn't drop at all so I think this confirms that this process doesn't allow much air to enter the system. Thanks for a good share Ben |
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04-30-2022, 05:20 AM | #35 | |
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Questions and Clarity
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Thank you for putting this innovative coolant flush tutorial together. I too was in the same boat as you with not being able to find simple way to do a full DIY Flush and bleed. My vehicle however is the 1 Series 2013 E82 N55 135i Auto. I have a few questions about your process if you could shed some insight. Question 1A: I am wondering, at step 4, when you start the car, does it make sense to aim the clear hose back into the open reservoir to keep the coolant cycle going until the vehicle has reached its stabilized operating temp (95c-108c) and ONLY THEN can you be 100% sure the thermostat and thus all passageways are open in order to continue with a full flush of complete coolant system including engin block? OR Question 1B: Will flushing into a bucket right off the bat with my vehicle engine starting up cold while using 10L (2.64 gallons) of room temp De-ionized water constantly poured into the open reservoir, be good enough to open the thermostat and all passage ways in the cooling system and engine block for a FULL flush before all 10L (2.6 gallons) of De-ionized water is used up and the plastic hose shows a clear flow? You mention in this discussion to Unspec "The pump runs the coolant as long as the thermostat is open (after warming up)" How long does this warm up phase take? Do you allow for a warming up phase by cycling the coolant in the system as per my question 1A BEFORE draining into a bucket? At what point in your tutorial do you do your warming up phase? At what point are you sure that the thermostat is open? Is there a way to know for sure? Is this warm up phase, you speak about, which you say opens the thermostat while flushing from a cold engine using fresh ROOM TEMP de-ionised water quick enough to do a full flush with 10L (2.6 gallons) of water? Or do you need to keep flushing with up to as much as 22L to 26L (6/7 gallons) of water before it warms up sufficiently enough to open the thermostat and thus complete the full coolant system flush and ONLY then it starts to go clear in the hose? You said - "The N55 model engine uses 10 liters of coolant." 10 Litres of coolant being 50/50 mix I assume. So I would assume pumping 10L (2.6 gallons) through the system would mean you will get roughly 10L of the old fluids out and therefore pumping in 5L (1.3 gallons) on pure coolant in after this 10L would be accurate for a 50/50 mix. With the above in mind and knowing the N55 can only take 10L of 50/50 mix why are you saying we need: - [ ] 6 or 7 gallons of distilled water (22L - 26L) - [ ] 2 gallons of OEM BMW non-diluted antifreeze (7.57L) Surely only 5L (1.3 gallons) of non-diluted antifreeze goes in at the end of the flush ? I will wait for some clarity before I attempt your process (with the engine running) Thank you for taking the time, Michael |
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04-30-2022, 07:13 AM | #36 | |
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I have asked David a few questions and while I wait for his reply I thought I would ask you a few. Did you do the process with the engine running? Did you start the flushing procedure immediately from a cold engine or did you wait for the engine to warm up so as to induce the thermostat to open. You mentioned "I found that after about 2 litres the water that was running out of the hose was starting to turn blue" Does that mean you flushed out +- 3 litres of 50/50 mix before you finished the process ? how did work out your final concentration ratio? Thank you, Michael |
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04-30-2022, 07:18 AM | #37 | |
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Did you ever try this method of coolant flushing that David put together or a variation of it? I am also wondering if the BMW bleed program would do the same job but better? Or if not as per Unspec's trial of it then a hybrid version of the two ? Michael |
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04-30-2022, 08:11 AM | #38 |
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Last November I did my OFHG and most of the coolant got changed as part of that job. I purchased a vacuum filling apparatus from ECS I believe it was. I'm pretty sure I have an OFHG post around here somewhere and I briefly cover it. I was never even tempted to do a "flush" - too many ways to get the coolant mixture out of whack.
My goal was drain and replace as much volume as I could reasonably do. If you don't get "behind" on coolant changes, it's not even super critical that you obsess over getting as much as possible out as it is all "fresh enough". 1/ Although it was $80-$90 and I would have preferred not to be required to buy the vacuum filling apparatus, boy was it slick. Ten seconds on shop air to draw a vacuum, however long you want as a leak test (nice to know all of your fittings are secure as part of the job), and something like 5 seconds to draw all of the replacement coolant back in. No bubbles, no burping, no top ups for the next week, no guessing. Combined with the built in bleed program it was, simply, the best coolant fill and bleed process I've ever done. Now that I have it, I'm planning to use the vacuum gear on any car I do coolant on, not just cars which require it. 2/ If I recall past learning properly, the water pump is never supposed to be exposed to air. Use caution that the pump always has some coolant in it while going through these processes and DEFINITELY do not let it run dry. *** I do not recall if 100% water is bad for it either because of lack of "lubrication" of the pump seals. Water is better than dry, but it may actually need coolant mix if it is being asked to run. I'm sure someone else will chime in or google would be able to answer the question. 3/ Again, combined with the vacuum filling apparatus, I think the bleed program does it all. I think I ran it twice while connected to a beefy battery charger just to be sure. There was no change in expansion tank level before or after the second run, only the first, implying that one run would have done it all. |
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05-01-2022, 12:41 PM | #39 | ||
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Hope this helps. You could also just do the same process without turning the engine on. Just engage the bleeding procedure and see what comes out and how much. I can't guarantee you'll get a perfect flush but most of the old will be out. My bleeding process went around 20 minutes when I tried it. |
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05-03-2022, 04:54 AM | #40 | |
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1. I am worried about taking off bleeder hose when the vehicle warmed up, Is it not under pressure? Will it not be dangerous ? Operating temp for my vehicle is around 100c for the oil. and around the same for the water temp (which I can access and view via the "secret Menu") Just need some clarity on your warm up phase... |
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05-03-2022, 06:15 AM | #41 |
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iQuick, it was not under pressure. Use gloves if need be. If it was under pressure anyway, it wouldn't be after a few seconds of turning off. Excess coolant in the hose would run into the coolant reservoir. It is very easy to maneuver and take off. Just press the clip upwards and when you slide it off the reservoir nipple, pull the hose slightly up just to be safe and go not let any coolant get out.
Chances are some coolant will be spilling out in this process and that's ok. When you connect a hose to the bleeder hose, make sure it is a hood and water tight figment. Or you'll be having some leaving out. When I connected mine, I fit the extensions hose over the bleeder hose and also wrapped it in some high temp tape. Not only that but I also wrapped a couple towels around the connection in case anything was to leak. |
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05-03-2022, 12:25 PM | #42 | |
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12-09-2023, 05:15 PM | #43 |
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My Experence
I experienced a problem with my 2013 BMW 535i X-Drive after a mechanic incorrectly added pink antifreeze. The next day, my engine oil overheated, and a coolant alarm activated. Returning to the mechanic, he incorrectly claimed the water pump was at fault, but I knew this wasn't true since I had checked the system myself. Realizing the issue was the wrong antifreeze, I researched trying to figured out how to drain my car's closed cooling system. After watching numerous YouTube videos I found that this post was the easiest and best way. It safe to say it was easy to understand and worked perfectly
Here are some tips that worked for me: - I had my son in the car to switch it off when the return valve changed color, allowing me to continue -working without interruption. - I mix 2 liters (of antifreeze) with water and 3 liters of straight antifreeze. I added the 3 Liter of straight antifreeze first( after the water turned clear. - It took about 7 gallons to completely drain the system. - I used a basic storage container from Walmart to collect the fluid. - A plastic hookah hose from a smoke shop served perfectly as a vent hose extension.(cost is about a dollar.)The short end fits perfectly into the vent hose Ps Thanks @David_Vasha, the post is better than anything on YouTube |
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