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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Spongy pedal and parking brake malfunction after changing rear brake pads |
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02-06-2015, 09:17 AM | #1 |
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Spongy pedal and parking brake malfunction after changing rear brake pads
Hey all
Last night I changed the rear brake pads on our 2011 535i xdrive. When turning the parking brake spindle the piston came 3 inches out. I turned the spindle the other way and was able to push it back in. When pushing it back in some fluid came out from the piston. Got the pads on and the wheels back on both sides and pumped the brakes. checked the parking brake. Parking brake malfunction came on and the brake pedal goes to the floor. Went for a test drive around the block and you have to push the pedal to the floor to stop. Any ideas? Did I get air in the brake line when the piston came out that far? On an additional note on the driver side, the one of the screw tabs on the parking brake mechanism broke off when removing it. Can I get a new one? will this affect the brakes as well? |
02-08-2015, 07:20 PM | #2 | |
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02-08-2015, 07:21 PM | #3 |
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Here's a DIY i used a year ago before i built my Fxx Diagnostics computer which retracts the brakes for you.
F10 BMW 520d 2010 Onwards Rear Brake Pads Replacement Procedure No computer system is required. Make sure front wheels are blocked front and rear. With car jacked up and rear wheel removed, start the engine and release the handbrake button which will release the handbrake at the rear callipers. Turn off the engine. The handbrake will remain off. Off Side Rear Brake Pads Replacement Remove EMF brake actuator electrical cable by unplugging, release cable from bracket and unclip further back to move cable away from the work area. Detached EMF hand brake actuator by unscrewing 2 small torx bolts (star key bolts, not Allen key bolts); one of these bolts will hold the cable bracket, remove actuator from calliper. Rest actuator on suspension wishbone as it still has cables attached. Remove floating central section of calliper that contains the piston, by removing 2 x 13mm bolts that are bolted through to the 2 small rubber gators. Take care not to damage the pad wear sensor on the off side rear wheel. Rest this section on a tall item (wooden block or something similar) to avoid putting undue pressure on the brake hose. Remove brake pads sideways. On off side inner pad carefully release pad wear sensor with screwdriver (it just pops out). Remove metal shims and replace with new or if no new ones available clean up existing shims with wire brush and replace. Attach pad wear sensor to new inside pad and install into place, install outer pad. On central calliper at the rear of the piston where the actuator spline fits, turn spline clockwise with small tool until it comes to a stop (tried turning anticlockwise as advised by someone but ended up pushing piston out even further). Then use a pressure clamp and gently squeeze piston back into calliper body. Slide central calliper into position back over pads. Replace 2 x 13mm bolts and tighten. Offer up EMF hand brake actuator and align spline, when located correctly, actuator will be flush to rear of calliper. Replace cable bracket, replace and tighten 2 x torx bolts (star key bolts). Re-plug actuator cable to actuator. Replace actuator cable and pad wear cables into bracket. Re-clip cable further back. Replace wheel and lower to ground. Near Side Rear Brake Pads Replacement Repeat procedure for near side brake pads replacement. Note that there is no pad wear sensor on this side, therefore when the EMF handbrake actuator is unbolted it can be removed and laid on the ground. Continue to follow the above procedure. Handbrake and footbrake operation When pad replacement is complete and car is on ground, press footbrake pedal a few times. With foot on footbrake, start car and activate handbrake button a few times which will set EMF brake into working order. With handbrake released you will find the brake auto hold also works correctly. Job is complete. Now for a test drive. |
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04-06-2015, 10:50 AM | #4 |
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You'll need a T30 Torx bit for the two handbrake actuator to calliper bolts - and a T45 in the spline at the back of the piston (clockwise to back piston off) ... and then anti-CW when the calliper's refitted.
Here's some pickies : Last edited by BMW-For-Life; 04-06-2015 at 05:00 PM.. |
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10-06-2017, 05:33 PM | #5 | |
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Hello, I have exactly the same problem, how did you fix it? |
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10-10-2017, 07:33 AM | #6 |
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Additional brake bleeding procedure (rear)
1. Start with one side, remove the guide bolts, unplug the handbrake actuator and pull out the brake caliper. Turn it so that the EMF actuator is facing down. Bleed until clear or no bubbles 2. Repeat above but with actuator facing up. Reinstall and flush again. Repeat the above for the other side. Air is trapped around the handbrake piston I guess |
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10-13-2017, 09:14 AM | #7 |
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Hello i fix it, air was trapped around handbrake piston.
I pull out actuator, and on central calliper at the rear of the piston where the actuator spline fits, turn spline clocksize and then put on caliper and you Can bleed system |
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