N63 no more throttle sputter at low rpm

Bossman535 · 11-15-2017, 06:16 PM

Hey guys. Ever since I took my stock mufflers offa year ago, I have noticed that under light throttle, the rpms would struggle around 1500 rpm until I hit the gas a little harder.

I plugged the little valve wires so I thought that couldn't be the problem.

But I put my stock mufflers back on the other day to pass inspection and it fixed the issue, the car drives perfectly, but it's too quiet.

I want to switch mufflers but I don't want the problem to arise again. Any suggestions on what I can do with the valves ? Or aftermarket mufflers w valves that won't break the bank but have deep tone. Wanting to get qtp cutouts too before resonators so I can switch between the regular setup and then to fully gutted.

335socal · 11-18-2017, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman535

Hey guys. Ever since I took my stock mufflers offa year ago, I have noticed that under light throttle, the rpms would struggle around 1500 rpm until I hit the gas a little harder.

I plugged the little valve wires so I thought that couldn't be the problem.

But I put my stock mufflers back on the other day to pass inspection and it fixed the issue, the car drives perfectly, but it's too quiet.

I want to switch mufflers but I don't want the problem to arise again. Any suggestions on what I can do with the valves ? Or aftermarket mufflers w valves that won't break the bank but have deep tone. Wanting to get qtp cutouts too before resonators so I can switch between the regular setup and then to fully gutted.

exhaust cutouts..

m5james · 11-22-2017, 06:42 PM

Speaking from the experience with my X5M, I kept getting reduced power warnings due to a vacuum leak in the line that runs from the engine all the way back to the exhaust valves. There was a plastic T that ran over to a vacuum line on the passenger side fender that ran to the valves, and even though I'd plugged the lines in the trunk, it still had a leak somewhere along the length of the car. Follow you vacuum lines and and see on the odd chance if you can remove the same T from the vacuum lines and if that helps.

Bossman535 · 11-27-2017, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335socal

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman535

Hey guys. Ever since I took my stock mufflers offa year ago, I have noticed that under light throttle, the rpms would struggle around 1500 rpm until I hit the gas a little harder.

I plugged the little valve wires so I thought that couldn't be the problem.

But I put my stock mufflers back on the other day to pass inspection and it fixed the issue, the car drives perfectly, but it's too quiet.

I want to switch mufflers but I don't want the problem to arise again. Any suggestions on what I can do with the valves ? Or aftermarket mufflers w valves that won't break the bank but have deep tone. Wanting to get qtp cutouts too before resonators so I can switch between the regular setup and then to fully gutted.

exhaust cutouts..

Yah I'm trying to have the car still be a little loud with the valves closed. Then with valves open, id prefer it to be really loud.

Trying to look for a less restrictive muffler than stock that will still work with the valves.

11-15-2017, 06:16 PM	#1
Bossman535 Private First Class 13 Rep 170 Posts Drives: Alpine white Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: saint charles iTrader: (1)	N63 no more throttle sputter at low rpm Hey guys. Ever since I took my stock mufflers offa year ago, I have noticed that under light throttle, the rpms would struggle around 1500 rpm until I hit the gas a little harder. I plugged the little valve wires so I thought that couldn't be the problem. But I put my stock mufflers back on the other day to pass inspection and it fixed the issue, the car drives perfectly, but it's too quiet. I want to switch mufflers but I don't want the problem to arise again. Any suggestions on what I can do with the valves ? Or aftermarket mufflers w valves that won't break the bank but have deep tone. Wanting to get qtp cutouts too before resonators so I can switch between the regular setup and then to fully gutted.
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11-22-2017, 06:42 PM	#3
m5james Colonel 431 Rep 2,062 Posts Drives: '10 X5M Alpine White on Sakhir Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Marysville, WA iTrader: (0)	Speaking from the experience with my X5M, I kept getting reduced power warnings due to a vacuum leak in the line that runs from the engine all the way back to the exhaust valves. There was a plastic T that ran over to a vacuum line on the passenger side fender that ran to the valves, and even though I'd plugged the lines in the trunk, it still had a leak somewhere along the length of the car. Follow you vacuum lines and and see on the odd chance if you can remove the same T from the vacuum lines and if that helps. __________________ '10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2" '98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's '97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's
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