OFHG tips

Bmwdoubles_ · 04-18-2020, 06:10 PM

I just changed out my gaskets of my OFHG cause it broke my belt in under a year from a leak that I thought was minor. So here's some tips feel free to add:

- change your OFHG seals as soon a you develop a leak
- if you go longer change your belt
- when you change you belt clean the teeth of each pulley
- degrease both pulley's with teeth and pulley's without or the belt will break again or worse
- the lower T10 bolt on the OFHG is hard to get so I removed the connecting radiator hose. Check that it's not internally cracked as you don't want contamination. If you have a lot miles might be a good maintenance item since you're in there. See my images below. A comparable OE hose are like 18 bucks on FCP.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...in-11537580969

(I think mine cracked because oil was seeping into that hose from the outside.you can see the oil on the connection lip in the image.)

Pushing 20 psi I'm sure speeds these problems up.

BimmerHausPerformance · 04-18-2020, 06:53 PM

Nice, I just did mine... my advice: don't accidentally start your car when the oil filter cap is off, it will make a mess - I wish I had it on video, it looked like old faithful, except black.

Did you pull your intake mani and all that fun stuff too?

lsturbointeg · 04-18-2020, 09:14 PM

Yup! Had Burrninja do mine just recently about a month ago. Oil leaked onto my belt and splattered over everything. Had to clean everything up. We also went ahead and replaced the belt as well as the oil cooler gasket

Bmwdoubles_ · 04-18-2020, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Nice, I just did mine... my advice: don't accidentally start your car when the oil filter cap is off, it will make a mess - I wish I had it on video, it looked like old faithful, except black.

Did you pull your intake mani and all that fun stuff too?

Lol put that cap on.

I took off my CP and took off all the bolts off my manifold and pulled it up, almost out.

Bmwdoubles_ · 04-18-2020, 10:35 PM

I also changed the valvetronic cap due to oil leaking out of it. For 6 bucks it's a no brainer and super easy to switch out.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-11377502022

At the end of you install purge the air from coolant system.

- fill reservoir to max line. I used distilled water.
- turn car on , not running
- turn heat to full on both sides
- hold gas pedal to the floor and listen for water pump after about 10 seconds
- let run for 10-12 minuets

BurrNinja · 04-19-2020, 12:12 AM

Easy diy, saves TONS! Good write up. I did the same method.

ey2001 · 04-19-2020, 12:21 AM

And you primed the oil... right?

Unspec · 04-19-2020, 01:54 AM

Something I've always wondered... what exactly does a OFHG leak look like? How obvious is it? I'm honestly not sure if mine is leaking or not, but at only 45k miles I don't think it should be leaking just yet

ey2001 · 04-19-2020, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unspec

Something I've always wondered... what exactly does a OFHG leak look like? How obvious is it? I'm honestly not sure if mine is leaking or not, but at only 45k miles I don't think it should be leaking just yet

My leak wasn't bad at all... just started to show signs but it was covered under warranty at 46,928... I just checked my invoice

Surly73 · 04-19-2020, 06:36 AM

I've been preparing to do this job later this spring. I have to say that I am uncomfortable with all of the risk of oil starvation and how to resolve it. Good coolant connection tips - thanks. I'm pretty sure somewhere I saw an aluminum replacement for that coolant hose part available.

There's folks who say it only applies to those with the oil/air cooler in the fender (requires the high speed synchronization option) because a bubble is formed. If you don't have that option, there's no concern. No hard evidence I've found (yet)

There are those who say you just need to refill the oil through the housing.

Everyone says that priming is a "good idea" but there's 3-4 different ways to prime, ISTA doesn't have a procedure that uses the computers to help, and for each process you can find someone out there who says it isn't the right way because <something>. In particular that <something> refers to the DME reducing the volume on the oil pump, which is why idling isn't good enough to resolve whatever the issue is.

Some tips say that the first thing you should do is get out and GET ON IT, so the DME requests high oil flow. I have to say that goes against every instinct when just having completed a "major" repair to two key fluid systems on the engine. I'm more of an idle-and-check-for-leaks-and-noises kind of guy.

More say "don't worry so much", yet that accounts of perfect OFHG jobs resulting in spun rod bearings continues to climb.

I watched an N54 decarbonizing video where the guy used a little jumper wire on the starter (which is right there when you have the IM off). I wonder if that would be a good way to prime with no spark or fuel injection.

ey2001 · 04-19-2020, 10:19 AM

This is the process I found a while back that I saved when I do the job...

"After replacing the engine or making engine repairs that require the replacement or removal of the engine bearings, VANOS gears, camshafts, bed plate resealing, engine oil pump, engine oil filter housing, cylinder head, engine oil cooler or anything that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine requires a short oil pump and oil supply circuit priming procedure."

This procedure is used when the high pressure fuel system pressure is not depleted after minor engine repairs and the fuel injection system needs to be disabled by removing the fuel injector electrical connectors.

1- If the engine has been drained prior to the repair remove the engine oil drain plug again to remove any residual oil that may have settled in the engine oil pan during the repair if the engine oil pan was not removed entirely.

2- Reinstall and torque the engine oil drain plug (with a new seal ring) per the applicable repair instruction.

3- Remove the oil filter housing cover and verify the oil filter is present. Reinstall the oil filter housing cover and torque it to the proper specification noted in the applicable repair instruction.

4- Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of engine oil, as specified in the applicable repair instruction.

5- Connect a battery charger to the vehicle.

6- Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors to disable fuel injection.

7- Crank the engine for 10 seconds.

8- After 10 seconds have elapsed, stop the starter, and allow the starter to cool for 20 seconds.

9- Repeat steps 7 and 8 two additional times.

10- Reinstall the fuel injector electrical connectors, reassemble the vehicle and verify proper engine operation.

11- After the engine has reached operating temperature, check the engine oil electronically or with the dipstick, and top up the engine oil as needed.

Bmwdoubles_ · 04-19-2020, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ey2001

This is the process I found a while back that I saved when I do the job...

"After replacing the engine or making engine repairs that require the replacement or removal of the engine bearings, VANOS gears, camshafts, bed plate resealing, engine oil pump, engine oil filter housing, cylinder head, engine oil cooler or anything that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine requires a short oil pump and oil supply circuit priming procedure."

This procedure is used when the high pressure fuel system pressure is not depleted after minor engine repairs and the fuel injection system needs to be disabled by removing the fuel injector electrical connectors.

1- If the engine has been drained prior to the repair remove the engine oil drain plug again to remove any residual oil that may have settled in the engine oil pan during the repair if the engine oil pan was not removed entirely.

2- Reinstall and torque the engine oil drain plug (with a new seal ring) per the applicable repair instruction.

3- Remove the oil filter housing cover and verify the oil filter is present. Reinstall the oil filter housing cover and torque it to the proper specification noted in the applicable repair instruction.

4- Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of engine oil, as specified in the applicable repair instruction.

5- Connect a battery charger to the vehicle.

6- Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors to disable fuel injection.

7- Crank the engine for 10 seconds.

8- After 10 seconds have elapsed, stop the starter, and allow the starter to cool for 20 seconds.

9- Repeat steps 7 and 8 two additional times.

10- Reinstall the fuel injector electrical connectors, reassemble the vehicle and verify proper engine operation.

11- After the engine has reached operating temperature, check the engine oil electronically or with the dipstick, and top up the engine oil as needed.

I've heard of this oil starvation when replacing the OFHG however I don't know anyone it's happened to and I've not seen it on the tube.

I don't think there's an official ISTA process because oil starvation wasn't supposed to happen.

Nothing about it in newstif.info either:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...n20/1VnYMIDuML

The guys at BMP said, "if you replace the oil during an OFHG repair, I pour 1qt through the OFHG and the rest normal".

Not saying it's not possible as BMW does recommend purging the air out of cooling system before starting the car right after the repair. Maybe that's where the problem really lies, is with air in the cooling system that shares the same OFHG?

If high oil request is what primes the oil cooler than an idea would be to reverse the oil cooler valve so it's alway circulating. I reverse mine for summer and track days. Takes longer to warm up but on track days, driving really hard not a tick over 240 degrees. Spirited driving with that mod is 220 on average.

ey2001 · 04-19-2020, 12:53 PM

Same here I have not heard of anyone that I know but when I do it i am going to do it just incase... on my e60 I changed it out 3 times myself while I owned it and never primed the oil and I was ok until someone clipped me from the side and totaled it... my e60 was like the link you posted in the first picture but my f10 looks like the second pic.. don't know if there is any difference.

ezaircon4jc · 04-19-2020, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ey2001

This is the process I found a while back that I saved when I do the job...

"After replacing the engine or making engine repairs that require the replacement or removal of the engine bearings, VANOS gears, camshafts, bed plate resealing, engine oil pump, engine oil filter housing, cylinder head, engine oil cooler or anything that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine requires a short oil pump and oil supply circuit priming procedure."

This procedure is used when the high pressure fuel system pressure is not depleted after minor engine repairs and the fuel injection system needs to be disabled by removing the fuel injector electrical connectors.

1- If the engine has been drained prior to the repair remove the engine oil drain plug again to remove any residual oil that may have settled in the engine oil pan during the repair if the engine oil pan was not removed entirely.

2- Reinstall and torque the engine oil drain plug (with a new seal ring) per the applicable repair instruction.

3- Remove the oil filter housing cover and verify the oil filter is present. Reinstall the oil filter housing cover and torque it to the proper specification noted in the applicable repair instruction.

4- Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of engine oil, as specified in the applicable repair instruction.

5- Connect a battery charger to the vehicle.

6- Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors to disable fuel injection.

7- Crank the engine for 10 seconds.

8- After 10 seconds have elapsed, stop the starter, and allow the starter to cool for 20 seconds.

9- Repeat steps 7 and 8 two additional times.

10- Reinstall the fuel injector electrical connectors, reassemble the vehicle and verify proper engine operation.

11- After the engine has reached operating temperature, check the engine oil electronically or with the dipstick, and top up the engine oil as needed.

Wouldn't pulling the fuse accomplish the desired results?

Surly73 · 04-19-2020, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ey2001

This is the process I found a while back that I saved when I do the job...

Quote:

6- Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors to disable fuel injection.

7- Crank the engine for 10 seconds.

Thanks for posting this. Two catches:

I'd really rather pull a fuse
Someone pointed out to me that the "normal" engine start procedure involves the DME sending the signal to the oil pump to reduce volume to minimum (to make cranking easier). If this is true, this is not useful as a priming procedure

The same place I saw mention of the oil pump volume being minimized during normal cranking indicated that you need to crank the engine when the DME is NOT expecting to start (e.g. jumper the starter to run without the ignition

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

I've heard of this oil starvation when replacing the OFHG however I don't know anyone it's happened to and I've not seen it on the tube.

I don't think there's an official ISTA process because oil starvation wasn't supposed to happen.

Maybe not during and OFHG, but there are lots of other repairs where priming is necessary. Instead of grabbing jumper wires, pulling fuses, disconnecting injectors, pulling plug wires and all that crap - wouldn't it be nicer to use an ISTA process that does all that for you? As well as making sure the oil pump is running at maximum volume? ISTA can control the starter duty cycle to ensure it doesn't overheat and everything.

I should look through ISTA to see if it's somewhere else...

Quote:

The guys at BMP said, "if you replace the oil during an OFHG repair, I pour 1qt through the OFHG and the rest normal".

I've heard that - and it can't do any harm.

Quote:

Not saying it's not possible as BMW does recommend purging the air out of cooling system before starting the car right after the repair. Maybe that's where the problem really lies, is with air in the cooling system that shares the same OFHG?

A bubble in the coolant won't spin rod bearings. On the other hand, coolant in the oil might.

Quote:

If high oil request is what primes the oil cooler than an idea would be to reverse the oil cooler valve so it's alway circulating.

That wouldn't change the pump volume demand. The N55 oil pump can be electronically controlled to reduce it's volume to increase fuel economy. It'll also do this during cranking (apparently), idling (apparently) and all sorts of other conditions where a bleeding procedure would like maximum flow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ey2001

Same here I have not heard of anyone that I know but when I do it i am going to do it just incase... on my e60 I changed it out 3 times myself while I owned it and never primed the oil and I was ok until someone clipped me from the side and totaled it... my e60 was like the link you posted in the first picture but my f10 looks like the second pic.. don't know if there is any difference.

I think I'm going to do all kinds of things "in case" LOL My F10 has not brought me much DIY luck compared to other BMWs I've worked on for whatever reason. For whatever reason, I just feel like a flawless OFHG job will end up in a spun bearing just because I'm me. Taking it to a shop doesn't guarantee anything - they probably don't prime either and there would be burden of proof on me to prove they did something wrong. They'll point to the TIS procedure and say "that's what we did".

This is a photo of the OFH on an F10 with option S840A "high speed synchronization". These hoses go to the outboard oil/air heat exchanger. Some accounts say that this model is the only one to have an oil starvation risk but I'm not so sure. I think this variant is a minority of F10 N55s. This might be a photo from someone here, it's been circulated all over:

Even though my general N55 reference guide says that any option S823A "hot climate version" cars have an oil/air heat exchanger, I think that information doesn't apply to the F10 and instead we get an oil/coolant heat exchanger. This is my OFHG and I have S823A:

BurrNinja · 04-19-2020, 04:23 PM

Before I did my ofhg I let my car drain oil as i worked on it. By time I was done there was no lick of oil coming out. Poured some down filter housing, then filled engine to spec minus the half quart used in housing. Have been on roughly 5k miles and no issues.

lsturbointeg · 04-19-2020, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Wouldn't pulling the fuse accomplish the desired results?

That's what we did

BurrNinja · 04-19-2020, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

Quote:

Originally Posted by ey2001

This is the process I found a while back that I saved when I do the job...

"After replacing the engine or making engine repairs that require the replacement or removal of the engine bearings, VANOS gears, camshafts, bed plate resealing, engine oil pump, engine oil filter housing, cylinder head, engine oil cooler or anything that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine requires a short oil pump and oil supply circuit priming procedure."

This procedure is used when the high pressure fuel system pressure is not depleted after minor engine repairs and the fuel injection system needs to be disabled by removing the fuel injector electrical connectors.

1- If the engine has been drained prior to the repair remove the engine oil drain plug again to remove any residual oil that may have settled in the engine oil pan during the repair if the engine oil pan was not removed entirely.

2- Reinstall and torque the engine oil drain plug (with a new seal ring) per the applicable repair instruction.

3- Remove the oil filter housing cover and verify the oil filter is present. Reinstall the oil filter housing cover and torque it to the proper specification noted in the applicable repair instruction.

4- Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of engine oil, as specified in the applicable repair instruction.

5- Connect a battery charger to the vehicle.

6- Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors to disable fuel injection.

7- Crank the engine for 10 seconds.

8- After 10 seconds have elapsed, stop the starter, and allow the starter to cool for 20 seconds.

9- Repeat steps 7 and 8 two additional times.

10- Reinstall the fuel injector electrical connectors, reassemble the vehicle and verify proper engine operation.

11- After the engine has reached operating temperature, check the engine oil electronically or with the dipstick, and top up the engine oil as needed.

Wouldn't pulling the fuse accomplish the desired results?

Yeah it cuts all fuel being pumped pulling the fuses.

Surly73 · 04-19-2020, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surly73

I'm pretty sure somewhere I saw an aluminum replacement for that coolant hose part available.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-926-90...7345522&sr=8-4

Bmwdoubles_ · 04-19-2020, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surly73

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surly73

I'm pretty sure somewhere I saw an aluminum replacement for that coolant hose part available.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-926-90...522&sr=8-4

Oh dope! I'm gonna upgrade. Thanks for sharing.

Going to see if these dimensions match. It says not for our platform but BMW carry over parts.

Bmwdoubles_ · 04-19-2020, 11:35 PM

Looks like FCP sells that with a better OE like clamp!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e-rein-chc0609

Encendido3 · 04-29-2020, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

Looks like FCP sells that with a better OE like clamp!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e-rein-chc0609

I used the same piece instead of replacing the entire hose. Cutting the old flange off was a major PITA. If anyone uses this, make sure to put a towel inside the hose. Don't want pieces of hose going down inside the system

04-18-2020, 06:10 PM	#1
Bmwdoubles_ Lieutenant 194 Rep 517 Posts Drives: BMW F10 535 Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (1) Garage List [0.00]	I just changed out my gaskets of my OFHG cause it broke my belt in under a year from a leak that I thought was minor. So here's some tips feel free to add: - change your OFHG seals as soon a you develop a leak - if you go longer change your belt - when you change you belt clean the teeth of each pulley - degrease both pulley's with teeth and pulley's without or the belt will break again or worse - the lower T10 bolt on the OFHG is hard to get so I removed the connecting radiator hose. Check that it's not internally cracked as you don't want contamination. If you have a lot miles might be a good maintenance item since you're in there. See my images below. A comparable OE hose are like 18 bucks on FCP. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...in-11537580969 (I think mine cracked because oil was seeping into that hose from the outside.you can see the oil on the connection lip in the image.) Pushing 20 psi I'm sure speeds these problems up. Attached Images __________________ BPM Tuned, Advanced Fuel Dynamics, Paddoq Valved Exhaust, Paddoq Magnetic Paddles, EDC dampers, Dinan Springs, H&R Sway. DCT all day long. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFu...fWjCtOz49FDMlg
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04-18-2020, 06:53 PM	#2
BimmerHausPerformance Major 513 Rep 1,442 Posts Drives: 2011 535i 6MT Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Chattanooga iTrader: (1) Garage List 2011 BMW 535i [0.00]	Nice, I just did mine... my advice: don't accidentally start your car when the oil filter cap is off, it will make a mess - I wish I had it on video, it looked like old faithful, except black. Did you pull your intake mani and all that fun stuff too? __________________ 2011 F10 S55 6MT Website Insta @bimmerhausperformance YouTube
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04-18-2020, 09:14 PM	#3
lsturbointeg Lieutenant General 9159 Rep 14,522 Posts Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Asian lost in OH iTrader: (0)	Yup! Had Burrninja do mine just recently about a month ago. Oil leaked onto my belt and splattered over everything. Had to clean everything up. We also went ahead and replaced the belt as well as the oil cooler gasket __________________ ~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~ Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg
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04-18-2020, 10:35 PM	#5
Bmwdoubles_ Lieutenant 194 Rep 517 Posts Drives: BMW F10 535 Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (1) Garage List [0.00]	I also changed the valvetronic cap due to oil leaking out of it. For 6 bucks it's a no brainer and super easy to switch out. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-11377502022 At the end of you install purge the air from coolant system. - fill reservoir to max line. I used distilled water. - turn car on , not running - turn heat to full on both sides - hold gas pedal to the floor and listen for water pump after about 10 seconds - let run for 10-12 minuets __________________ BPM Tuned, Advanced Fuel Dynamics, Paddoq Valved Exhaust, Paddoq Magnetic Paddles, EDC dampers, Dinan Springs, H&R Sway. DCT all day long. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFu...fWjCtOz49FDMlg
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04-19-2020, 12:12 AM	#6
BurrNinja Captain 431 Rep 915 Posts Drives: 2017 540i Bluestone Metallic Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Ohio iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 535i xdrive [0.00]	Easy diy, saves TONS! Good write up. I did the same method. __________________ Instgram @burninja
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04-19-2020, 12:21 AM	#7
ey2001 Captain 310 Rep 716 Posts Drives: F10 535i 6spd Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: la iTrader: (0)	And you primed the oil... right?
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04-19-2020, 01:54 AM	#8
Unspec Colonel 1300 Rep 2,591 Posts Drives: 2015 BMW 535xi Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: DMV iTrader: (1)	Something I've always wondered... what exactly does a OFHG leak look like? How obvious is it? I'm honestly not sure if mine is leaking or not, but at only 45k miles I don't think it should be leaking just yet __________________ 2015 BMW 535xi Bootmod3 Stage 2 \| ER charge pipe \| ER Catted DP \| Remus Exhaust \| Gplus FMIC \| KW V3 \| Turner Monoball thrust arm bushings \| Wallet regrets ISTA VM Setup/Tutorial
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04-19-2020, 06:36 AM	#10
Surly73 Lieutenant Colonel 535 Rep 1,873 Posts Drives: '11 535xi 8AT KWv3 MPE MHD xHP Join Date: May 2012 Location: Oakville, Ontario iTrader: (1)	I've been preparing to do this job later this spring. I have to say that I am uncomfortable with all of the risk of oil starvation and how to resolve it. Good coolant connection tips - thanks. I'm pretty sure somewhere I saw an aluminum replacement for that coolant hose part available. There's folks who say it only applies to those with the oil/air cooler in the fender (requires the high speed synchronization option) because a bubble is formed. If you don't have that option, there's no concern. No hard evidence I've found (yet) There are those who say you just need to refill the oil through the housing. Everyone says that priming is a "good idea" but there's 3-4 different ways to prime, ISTA doesn't have a procedure that uses the computers to help, and for each process you can find someone out there who says it isn't the right way because <something>. In particular that <something> refers to the DME reducing the volume on the oil pump, which is why idling isn't good enough to resolve whatever the issue is. Some tips say that the first thing you should do is get out and GET ON IT, so the DME requests high oil flow. I have to say that goes against every instinct when just having completed a "major" repair to two key fluid systems on the engine. I'm more of an idle-and-check-for-leaks-and-noises kind of guy. More say "don't worry so much", yet that accounts of perfect OFHG jobs resulting in spun rod bearings continues to climb. I watched an N54 decarbonizing video where the guy used a little jumper wire on the starter (which is right there when you have the IM off). I wonder if that would be a good way to prime with no spark or fuel injection.
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04-19-2020, 10:19 AM	#11
ey2001 Captain 310 Rep 716 Posts Drives: F10 535i 6spd Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: la iTrader: (0)	This is the process I found a while back that I saved when I do the job... "After replacing the engine or making engine repairs that require the replacement or removal of the engine bearings, VANOS gears, camshafts, bed plate resealing, engine oil pump, engine oil filter housing, cylinder head, engine oil cooler or anything that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine requires a short oil pump and oil supply circuit priming procedure." This procedure is used when the high pressure fuel system pressure is not depleted after minor engine repairs and the fuel injection system needs to be disabled by removing the fuel injector electrical connectors. 1- If the engine has been drained prior to the repair remove the engine oil drain plug again to remove any residual oil that may have settled in the engine oil pan during the repair if the engine oil pan was not removed entirely. 2- Reinstall and torque the engine oil drain plug (with a new seal ring) per the applicable repair instruction. 3- Remove the oil filter housing cover and verify the oil filter is present. Reinstall the oil filter housing cover and torque it to the proper specification noted in the applicable repair instruction. 4- Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of engine oil, as specified in the applicable repair instruction. 5- Connect a battery charger to the vehicle. 6- Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors to disable fuel injection. 7- Crank the engine for 10 seconds. 8- After 10 seconds have elapsed, stop the starter, and allow the starter to cool for 20 seconds. 9- Repeat steps 7 and 8 two additional times. 10- Reinstall the fuel injector electrical connectors, reassemble the vehicle and verify proper engine operation. 11- After the engine has reached operating temperature, check the engine oil electronically or with the dipstick, and top up the engine oil as needed.
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04-19-2020, 12:53 PM	#13
ey2001 Captain 310 Rep 716 Posts Drives: F10 535i 6spd Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: la iTrader: (0)	Same here I have not heard of anyone that I know but when I do it i am going to do it just incase... on my e60 I changed it out 3 times myself while I owned it and never primed the oil and I was ok until someone clipped me from the side and totaled it... my e60 was like the link you posted in the first picture but my f10 looks like the second pic.. don't know if there is any difference. Attached Images
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04-19-2020, 04:23 PM	#16
BurrNinja Captain 431 Rep 915 Posts Drives: 2017 540i Bluestone Metallic Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Ohio iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 535i xdrive [0.00]	Before I did my ofhg I let my car drain oil as i worked on it. By time I was done there was no lick of oil coming out. Poured some down filter housing, then filled engine to spec minus the half quart used in housing. Have been on roughly 5k miles and no issues. __________________ Instgram @burninja
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04-19-2020, 11:35 PM	#21
Bmwdoubles_ Lieutenant 194 Rep 517 Posts Drives: BMW F10 535 Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (1) Garage List [0.00]	Looks like FCP sells that with a better OE like clamp! https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e-rein-chc0609 __________________ BPM Tuned, Advanced Fuel Dynamics, Paddoq Valved Exhaust, Paddoq Magnetic Paddles, EDC dampers, Dinan Springs, H&R Sway. DCT all day long. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFu...fWjCtOz49FDMlg Last edited by Bmwdoubles_; 04-21-2020 at 01:34 AM..
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