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      11-08-2014, 09:54 AM   #23
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      11-08-2014, 10:57 AM   #24
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Looks nice. Need to ditch that front plate and delete the fogs. New York has got some ugly plates.
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      11-08-2014, 12:09 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Mbbrewer View Post
Looks nice. Need to ditch that front plate and delete the fogs. New York has got some ugly plates.
Everyone has been saying to get rid of the plate lol. Honestly, I wish I could but our legislators think other wise.
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      11-08-2014, 12:10 PM   #26
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      11-08-2014, 12:46 PM   #27
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      11-08-2014, 03:51 PM   #28
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What a great read Clean. Highly entertaining (an ouch here, a chuckle there, and lots of OMG's). There is absolutely no way I would be doing 16 hours on my back on concrete removing and installing that DP. Weren't you stiff for a week after that?

From a cosmetic perspective I actually preferred the all black kidneys as it gave it 'attitude' if you know what I mean. I really like how you look after your paintwork as it seems to have a deep gloss to it ... like it has 10 inches of black lustre ... bee-you-tee-ful. I studied the art of avoiding and removing swirl marks years ago but I think we could all use a refresher on the subject, particularly if you have products you recommend and specific methodologies in their application. I'd actually be interested in reading a thread dedicated to this.

I'm looking forward to seeing what shoes you have planned for your ride as well as the accompanying drop. I have H&R's installed on mine and I can definitely recommend them as being just as comfortable as stock but stiffer in the corners with a lot less body roll. I considered using coilovers but decided against it as I didn't want to go without the EDC for my Adaptive Suspension.

Anyway, keep up the narrative as I'm at least one reader who has subscribed to the next chapter in this story
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      11-08-2014, 07:44 PM   #29
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Oz,

Thanks for your support and feedback it really means alot! As a matter of fact I was stiff for a while and my fingers were numb for 3 days but mostly I'm ok (apart from a couple fingers being slightly numb at present). The biggest PITA in this install was dealing with the seized nuts and bolt. I made sure to use anti seize and completely replace the hardware to prevent this from happening again and to maintain the integrity of the assembling components. I promised myself I wouldn't do this again, but I'm confident I can remove and reinstall the DP within 2 hours from start to finish this time around. I will try to document this to help anyone else who decides to DIY it in the future. All in all I saved $500 in labor costs but the real savings will become evident when I remove and reinstall it without paying that $500 each time, plus I was able to have some bonding time with my car .

In regards to the black grills, I liked them at first, but my car didn't seem to be aggressive enough to pull them off. If I had a drop and a front lip at the very least, I'd definetely keep them on. Getting those grills in and out is another PITA btw.

Detailing is my favorite hobby. Its best paired listening to some jazz with noise canceling ear phones. My cleaning schedule goes as follows:

Summer/Spring/Fall:

- Wash twice a week using meguiars gold class shampoo (excellent lubricity and cleaning ability) making sure to wash from top to bottom.

- Open hood, trunk, all four doors and gas door to help trapped water escape

- Use electric leaf blower after car has been completely and thoroughly rinsed to displace water from paint and evacuate water from seems and edges

- Ensure there is no dust on car surface and mist meguairs quick detailer (red bottle) on paint

- Gently wipe paint with a quality microfiber folded into squares to cover edges and seems of the microfiber to prevent marring. Also checking to ensure the tags are removed if any. Finally, turning the microfiber over to a dryer section lightly misted with QD (quick detailer) to prevent marring

- Wipe side skirts with another microfiber and soak it in water to release any trapped dirt

- Clean mirrors and windows with an ammonia free cleaner

- Clean door jams and apply trim protectant to tiny edges of door sills

- Clean and condition all the interior (including trim, seats, crevices between steering wheel, buttons, gear shifter ect) * for the small aluminum bits of trim I use a fine metal polish and for the rest of the trim, I use a non-cleaner wax due to applying Gtechniq C1 over it*

- Apply trim protectant to gas door area

- Clean hood edges, clean engine bay and apply trim protectant throughout

- Wipe any residual water from around the car

Wheels

- Soak with water

- Spray with eagle one aluminum tire and wheel cleaner

- Use dedicated microfiber mitt to remove brake dust

- Use micro-brush to clean between crevices and lug nut holes

- Rinse thoroughly

- Use electric leaf blower to displace water

- Dry using retired microfiber (When a microfiber gets too old or too dirty, I retire it from the paint and use it on the wheels).

- Apply and remove mothers aluminum polish

- Apply either Meguiars endurance tire gel or NXT tire shine depending on my mood

- Allow the car to sit for 2 hours to allow water to within the window felt and various other parts, as well as the tire dressing to dry

For the winter I have a special routine but I need a little bit more saved up before I can get a heated pressure washer..

My washing process takes 4 hours give or take

Polishing:

I used to polish the car two times a month using 3M ultrafine machine polish with a blue cobra finishing pad and my dewalt rotary. Contrary to what people believe, using a rotary is not difficult (if careful and experienced) and can yield marvelous results in half the time compared to an orbital. This fine polish is extremely mild and cannot remove most impercetions. I really shines as the very last step in the polishing process as It is capable of removing buffer trails, holograms and micromarring incurred from using more agressive polishes. If I had a group of imperfections that 3M ultrafine couldn't remove, I would take a white polishing pad and Meguiars 205 with my rotary set to 1200 to remove it. If the imperfections were more severe, I would use Meguiars 105 with a orange cutting pad to level the paint in an instant, being careful with my technique so I wouldn't drag the pad across the paint, leave it sitting in one spot too long or using too much or too little pressure both of which will lead to marring. * Too much pressure leads to too much cutting power because in the process of pressing down, more heat is generated, often times drying up the product, leaving little polishing oils or lubricating agents and allowing the abrasives to cut into the paint. Although meguiars has 'diminishing abrasives' which lessens the likely hood of abrasives continually cutting the paint without being broken down in the process, the damage is still done regardless. Too little pressure does not allow the polish to break down, and as a result, it allows the cleaning agents found in the polish to continually cut without being broken down to finer bits, essentially smoothing the imperfections it caused earlier with the air of the polishing oils*.

Anyhow, I since applied Gtechniq's C1 crystal lacquer and now I'm enjoying the added swirl resistance which means I don't have to polish so frequently.

Finally, I will look into the H&R springs more closely, as I like the drop they give but was concerned about the ride quality. For wheels, I will most likely order from my boy who works with Klassen ID, but I can't say too much because If I don't follow through I don't want to be called a liar . Stay tuned !
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      11-08-2014, 10:47 PM   #30
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Damn, ballsy as hell installing your own DPs. I have Eibach springs, a n63 stage 1 tune (installed, but took off prior to servicing), and downpipes sitting in my room, unistalled because I haven't had even a single free moment the past few weeks. Really going to start upgrading my car once again after I get back from vacation.

How is the muffler delete? I am considering it, but I don't like loud cars, a loud cold start is awesome, but I don't want a loud car when idling or just cruising along....
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      11-09-2014, 04:38 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Clean
Oz,

Thanks for your support and feedback it really means alot! As a matter of fact I was stiff for a while and my fingers were numb for 3 days but mostly I'm ok (apart from a couple fingers being slightly numb at present). The biggest PITA in this install was dealing with the seized nuts and bolt. I made sure to use anti seize and completely replace the hardware to prevent this from happening again and to maintain the integrity of the assembling components. I promised myself I wouldn't do this again, but I'm confident I can remove and reinstall the DP within 2 hours from start to finish this time around. I will try to document this to help anyone else who decides to DIY it in the future. All in all I saved $500 in labor costs but the real savings will become evident when I remove and reinstall it without paying that $500 each time, plus I was able to have some bonding time with my car .

In regards to the black grills, I liked them at first, but my car didn't seem to be aggressive enough to pull them off. If I had a drop and a front lip at the very least, I'd definetely keep them on. Getting those grills in and out is another PITA btw.

Detailing is my favorite hobby. Its best paired listening to some jazz with noise canceling ear phones. My cleaning schedule goes as follows:

Summer/Spring/Fall:

- Wash twice a week using meguiars gold class shampoo (excellent lubricity and cleaning ability) making sure to wash from top to bottom.

- Open hood, trunk, all four doors and gas door to help trapped water escape

- Use electric leaf blower after car has been completely and thoroughly rinsed to displace water from paint and evacuate water from seems and edges

- Ensure there is no dust on car surface and mist meguairs quick detailer (red bottle) on paint

- Gently wipe paint with a quality microfiber folded into squares to cover edges and seems of the microfiber to prevent marring. Also checking to ensure the tags are removed if any. Finally, turning the microfiber over to a dryer section lightly misted with QD (quick detailer) to prevent marring

- Wipe side skirts with another microfiber and soak it in water to release any trapped dirt

- Clean mirrors and windows with an ammonia free cleaner

- Clean door jams and apply trim protectant to tiny edges of door sills

- Clean and condition all the interior (including trim, seats, crevices between steering wheel, buttons, gear shifter ect) * for the small aluminum bits of trim I use a fine metal polish and for the rest of the trim, I use a non-cleaner wax due to applying Gtechniq C1 over it*

- Apply trim protectant to gas door area

- Clean hood edges, clean engine bay and apply trim protectant throughout

- Wipe any residual water from around the car

Wheels

- Soak with water

- Spray with eagle one aluminum tire and wheel cleaner

- Use dedicated microfiber mitt to remove brake dust

- Use micro-brush to clean between crevices and lug nut holes

- Rinse thoroughly

- Use electric leaf blower to displace water

- Dry using retired microfiber (When a microfiber gets too old or too dirty, I retire it from the paint and use it on the wheels).

- Apply and remove mothers aluminum polish

- Apply either Meguiars endurance tire gel or NXT tire shine depending on my mood

- Allow the car to sit for 2 hours to allow water to within the window felt and various other parts, as well as the tire dressing to dry

For the winter I have a special routine but I need a little bit more saved up before I can get a heated pressure washer..

My washing process takes 4 hours give or take

Polishing:

I used to polish the car two times a month using 3M ultrafine machine polish with a blue cobra finishing pad and my dewalt rotary. Contrary to what people believe, using a rotary is not difficult (if careful and experienced) and can yield marvelous results in half the time compared to an orbital. This fine polish is extremely mild and cannot remove most impercetions. I really shines as the very last step in the polishing process as It is capable of removing buffer trails, holograms and micromarring incurred from using more agressive polishes. If I had a group of imperfections that 3M ultrafine couldn't remove, I would take a white polishing pad and Meguiars 205 with my rotary set to 1200 to remove it. If the imperfections were more severe, I would use Meguiars 105 with a orange cutting pad to level the paint in an instant, being careful with my technique so I wouldn't drag the pad across the paint, leave it sitting in one spot too long or using too much or too little pressure both of which will lead to marring. * Too much pressure leads to too much cutting power because in the process of pressing down, more heat is generated, often times drying up the product, leaving little polishing oils or lubricating agents and allowing the abrasives to cut into the paint. Although meguiars has 'diminishing abrasives' which lessens the likely hood of abrasives continually cutting the paint without being broken down in the process, the damage is still done regardless. Too little pressure does not allow the polish to break down, and as a result, it allows the cleaning agents found in the polish to continually cut without being broken down to finer bits, essentially smoothing the imperfections it caused earlier with the air of the polishing oils*.

Anyhow, I since applied Gtechniq's C1 crystal lacquer and now I'm enjoying the added swirl resistance which means I don't have to polish so frequently.

Finally, I will look into the H&R springs more closely, as I like the drop they give but was concerned about the ride quality. For wheels, I will most likely order from my boy who works with Klassen ID, but I can't say too much because If I don't follow through I don't want to be called a liar . Stay tuned !
Clean, that's insane!! Lol. I believe in the labour of love for your ride but that's way too much attention. If you're noticing relationship issues then you do realise this could be the reason why (jokes ... ha ha).

Not wanting to thread-jack (I did suggest doing this under a thread of it's own) but why do you use Meguires Quick Detailer right after you've washed it? That product is designed to keep your paint looking fresh between washes. And the leaf blower idea is an absolute gem (boom!). Your Neighbours must think your loco (or very clever). I trust it's just a blower and not a blower-vac, hey? Otherwise you'd be blowing dust from the tube back over your paint.
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      11-12-2014, 10:17 PM   #32
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Great read indeed. just got into the F10 world. definitely enjoy this forum and the quality posts. look forward to spring to see the updates.
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      11-26-2014, 07:18 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Clean View Post
Everyone has been saying to get rid of the plate lol. Honestly, I wish I could but our legislators think other wise.
I don't see how you are worried about your legislators, deleting the mufflers are even more illegal. And yes, I hate unnecessary noise! So this mode is a in my book!
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      12-21-2014, 03:08 PM   #34
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Mr Clean,

First off, all I can say is WOW!. Your car looks amazing and I can't even imagine trying to change a downpipe without having a garage. I've done my own exhaust work before and swore I would never do it again. So kudos for all of that.

Plus, all of the detailing knowledge is amazing.

I have a couple of quick questions.

Does NYC have emission inspections? If so, wouldn't you automatically fail because of the lack of mufflers (in believe you said you were going to re-install the catted downpipe)

Are you out of warranty with BMW? Because I thought having no mufflers would cause issues (as above, I thought you said you were going re-install the catted downpipe and remove the JB4 tune before going in).

Wouldn't removing your mufflers cause you to lose low-end torque? Maybe not noticeable with the JB4 tune and MAP your are running. I agree with you that spending $1.5K to $3K on an exhaust system seems excessive. But, some people have the disposable income and like the sound. I would like to get the sound but not spend a couple thousand to get it.

Also, how did you remove the badges from your car (535i and x-drive). What method did you use and what would be the best way to re-attach them if you were going to sell it?

I like what you did just not sure I could get away with it in MD.

Thanks for sharing of the great info!
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      12-21-2014, 10:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShoot View Post
Mr Clean,

First off, all I can say is WOW!. Your car looks amazing and I can't even imagine trying to change a downpipe without having a garage. I've done my own exhaust work before and swore I would never do it again. So kudos for all of that.

Plus, all of the detailing knowledge is amazing.

Thanks for all the kind words and support, I really appreciate your input! Its a full time job to up keep my car to my exacting standards but totally worth it whenever I look at it outside my window


I have a couple of quick questions.

I love questions!

Does NYC have emission inspections? If so, wouldn't you automatically fail because of the lack of mufflers (in believe you said you were going to re-install the catted downpipe)

Yes NYC does have inspections that must be taken yearly. Unlike other states, shops generally do not go looking for "missing" components unless it is apparently obvious or throwing a specific code. Of course this varies from shop to shop, since some are over zealous and search for things as small as zipties holding rubber boots while others do a less thorough check. To answer your question directly however, having a muffler deleted would not be automatic grounds for inspection failure. If the muffler is missing altogether (as in it rusted off or there is excessive noise and no tail pipe present such as with "shorty mufflers" or "cut outs") they will fail on the grounds of a missing component. But generally speaking, any pipe that extends from the from the front of the car to the rear completely without overly obvious signs of alteration won't bother most shops.

Additionally, the muffler is not an "emission control" component as its main function is to be a noise reduction component and thus serves a less significant role in reducing emissions by definition of NYS law. The CAT aka Catalylic Converter aka downpipe is the most important component of the exhaust emissions control since it converts toxic exhaust gases directly exiting the engine's exhaust manifold and entering the CAT to less toxic gases that are suitable enough the be reintroduced into the atmosphere. The three main exhaust gases that are toxic to the environment are Nitrogen oxides (NOX) Carbon monoxide (aka the silent killer - CO) and Hydrocarbons (HC) that may or may not have been burned off completely during the combustion cycle. When these gases enter the primary layer of the catalytic converter which is comprised of a series of honey comb like plates pressed together into a block, the Platinum and Rhodium (which comprise these honey comb plates) force the gases to undergo a transformation while passing through (thus restricting exhaust flow in the process as the pores in the blocks are small and tightly pressed together in order to capture the harmful gases). After undergoing the first part of the transformation, the gases are then subjected to a second transformation by passing through a second block structured similarly to the first except the material that comprise it are Platinum and Palladium. This then transforms the once harmful exhaust gases into more environmentally safe Water Vapor (H2o), Carbon dioxide (C02) and Nitrogen (N2). The resonator and muffler, the other two components of the exhaust system, serve a primary purpose of reducing the sound waves that are emitted with the toxic gases exiting the exhaust manifold through the transformation process of the CAT to remove the deepest sound waves first then residual deep tones and midtones (respectively) thereafter to a more manageable sound level thus reducing sound pollution not air pollution or emissions.


Are you out of warranty with BMW? Because I thought having no mufflers would cause issues (as above, I thought you said you were going re-install the catted downpipe and remove the JB4 tune before going in).

I am still in warranty with BMW until late October of 2015, and took my car in for service 2 times with the JB4, downpipe, intake and muffler delete without issue. The reality of the warranty situation is BMW or any car manufacturer offering a warranty that agrees to cover certain components such as BMW does, has the burden of proof to show a direct attribution to the issue at hand with the modification in question. I'm sure you heard of people complaining about issues such as installing HIDs and going in for a misfire and the dealership refusing to cover ignition coils or injectors or what have you on that premise. Those stories are hyper inflated and simply spreading bad information. Perhaps if during the HID install the car owner cut a wire that regulates the ignition coil or injector thus causing the issue, they would indeed be held liable for creating that circumstance. The most the dealer can do is void the warranty for that specific part or portion(s) of the component's "greater system" IF and only IF an issue arises and you bring the car to them requesting warranty coverage. In some cases, the dealer would refuse to work on the car since mods are installed, and charge you a diagnostic fee and/or labor for removing the mod(s) less the work provided for free under warranty. To help illustrate, take this simple example: You (as a citizen who has certain irrevocable rights such as the right to a public defender and fair and speedy trial) cannot be proven guilty or condemned to having committed a crime or violation against the law or your fellow man unless the case is brought before a court and the legal proceedings take place. The key to all of this is the prosecutor (be it a government entity if a crime or violation is committed against society or plaintiff if it is another individual as with torts- an infringement on the right of your fellow man where one suffers a loss or detriment at the benefit of another- ) carries the "burden of proof" to prove that you did indeed commit the crime or violation in question. That's why in the courts of law the accused is the defendant (defending their innocence as it were in relation to said crime / violation) and the plaintiff is the accuser or party which initiates the claim. You would be the defendant and the dealership would have spend many hours and dollars to legitimately prove that they dont have to cover a part or parts that you have no obligation to pay for (unless entered into a contract) or have no willingness to pay. Some people would say "Hey, its not worth it get my car fixed here at the dealer so take your $145 diagnostic fee and I'll go somewhere else" In the mean while, the dealer might've spent $10,000 proving you contributed to your car's issue and you spent $145 for the diag fee and probably $500 for an attorney to contact the dealer and draft a letter or two. Anyhow, In the case of the dealership refusing to warranty parts of the car that haven't been modded or altered such as the sound system or fuel system (in relation to the first example given) they are outside the bounds of the law and an attorney can help immensely. Be warned however, BMW's legal team is enormous! So to answer your question directly, no, having the forementioned mods installed did not cause an issue between the dealership and myself. If all else fails I have second warranty that happens to be very good

Wouldn't removing your mufflers cause you to lose low-end torque? Maybe not noticeable with the JB4 tune and MAP your are running. I agree with you that spending $1.5K to $3K on an exhaust system seems excessive. But, some people have the disposable income and like the sound. I would like to get the sound but not spend a couple thousand to get it.

[To make this response less wordy, try to keep in mind what I stated earlier about the exhaust gases slowing during the process of becoming less harmful in the CAT]. I'm sure you heard its better to have a free flowing exhaust system to help evacuate the exhaust gases as fast as possible to make more "room" for the increased gases that will exit after the combustion cycle. This is true to an extent. In general, you want the exhaust gases to leave the manifold (through the exhaust system) at a fast yet steady rate of speed or velocity so that there won't be too much pressure building as the clean air enters the combustion chamber, ignites with fuel and the intake value is shut while the exhaust value is open to push the spent fuel and gas out to the manifold. The "steady" part is underlined since back pressure helps to steady the flow stream by excerting a resistant pressure against the outflow of the exhaust gases. But what does that mean? Take a perfect example from your own body. As your reading this try to carry out this exercise; open your mouth as wide as you can (for those of you thinking negatively this is for you ) and try to breathe in and out as fast as you can (make sure you don't do this at work/crowded places or you'll end up looking like a buffoon lol). Did you notice that despite the equal amount of air you breathed in and out you were still almost out of breath each breathing cycle and that the only benefit you saw was that you felt better exhaling quicker than inhaling? Right! There is not enough resistance or back pressure to help steady the inflow of air to inhale and outflow of air as you exhale. Liken this to putting the biggest diameter exhaust pipe on your car. Sure you'll feel the power at the top end since the exhaust gases are moving out so quickly in response to the increased combustion cycles but they fail to let the gases out as quickly on the lower end of the spectrum (lower RPM) and as a result leading to not only a slower velocity of air exiting the system, but the chance that more of the air gets "reingested" to the cylinder thus reducing the effectiveness of the burn cycle. Finally consider the breathing techniques runners and weightlifters are told to practice while performing; breathing in from the nose and out through slowly through the mouth. This helps to provide much needed resistance for inhalation and exhalation, while helping the Carbon to exit the body in a quick yet steady manner which wouldn't risk collapsing the lungs. This is all said to prove a couple points:

- In turbo'd cars, the less resistance the better since the turbo creates its own resistance by using the exhaust gases or waste energy to spin its turbines which effectively turn a shaft connected between the turbine (lubricated by oil from the engine) and compressor wheel, which from that point the compressor wheel draws in clean air to be compressed from a high velocity low pressure stream to low velocity high pressure which is then cooled and introduced to the combustion cyclinder to make power.

- The downpipe is the best and most effective way to reduce exhaust pressure for the reasons I stated both in the previous question's response above and earlier here

and

- The muffler's primary purpose is to reduce sound levels and if removed, they don't have the same effect on affecting backpressure as with NA (Naturally Aspirated) car meaning no loss of torque. Of course a dyno better and after would be ideal.



Also, how did you remove the badges from your car (535i and x-drive). What method did you use and what would be the best way to re-attach them if you were going to sell it?

To remove the badges I used clear dental floss between the badges and the paint, carefully moving side to side (as if flossing) and downwards to separate to effectively "cut" the badges off. After that I took a pair of rubber ended tweezers and a magnifying glass to remove the small pieces of residual glue, after which I used Meg 105 compound and a orange pad followed by megs 205 ultra finishing polish with a white pad and finally 3m's ultrafine with a blue pad to polish the area. Im sure the new badges come with a sticky adhesive based backing on which to reattach them to the paint. All i'd need to do is be careful with my placement and measure an appropriate distance correctly.

I like what you did just not sure I could get away with it in MD.

Thanks for sharing of the great info!
Your welcome and have a great holiday!
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Last edited by Mr Clean; 12-21-2014 at 11:01 PM..
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      12-22-2014, 06:12 AM   #36
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That was one hell of a reply and very informative. Your ride looks awesome.
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      12-22-2014, 11:37 AM   #37
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Quote:
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Your welcome and have a great holiday!
Wow, thanks for the incredibly thorough explanations! I wonder what that second insurance policy really is...?

When you installed the catless downpipe, it should have thrown a CEL. Did the JB4 allow you to clear it and does it stay clear? I know that emission stations can check to see how long the CEL has been cleared. At least in MD is had to be cleared for around 100 miles or so. I did it for my son's car right before the inspection but they told us come back after he put a couple of hundred miles on the car.

The reason I ask is that I love the thought of a catless downpipe but I believe it is going to throw a CEL. Since I don't have a JB4 tune that allows me to clear it, how often does it happen because I believe Bavarian Auto sells a tool to allow you to clear it. But, if it is going to happen constantly, that would be a real pain.

And to remove the badges, did you have to use the green mint waxy type of floss or would any type do?

Thanks again for the sharing all of that info with the board.
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      12-31-2014, 09:32 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShoot View Post
Wow, thanks for the incredibly thorough explanations! I wonder what that second insurance policy really is...?

When you installed the catless downpipe, it should have thrown a CEL. Did the JB4 allow you to clear it and does it stay clear? I know that emission stations can check to see how long the CEL has been cleared. At least in MD is had to be cleared for around 100 miles or so. I did it for my son's car right before the inspection but they told us come back after he put a couple of hundred miles on the car.

The reason I ask is that I love the thought of a catless downpipe but I believe it is going to throw a CEL. Since I don't have a JB4 tune that allows me to clear it, how often does it happen because I believe Bavarian Auto sells a tool to allow you to clear it. But, if it is going to happen constantly, that would be a real pain.

And to remove the badges, did you have to use the green mint waxy type of floss or would any type do?

Thanks again for the sharing all of that info with the board.
Sorry for the late reply, I was caught up during the past few days.

Immediately after installing the DP (downpipe) and verifying everything was properly connected, I started the car to be greeted with the dreaded "drivetrain malfunction" light as well as the check engine light illuminated. My heart sank for a bit since I thought I had to trace and diagnose the issue at 11:30pm in the night but I got my self together and began to troubleshoot.
I let the car idle down for a minute and went back underneath it to check for air leaks or funny/odd sounds ect. After that I shut the car down, attached my laptop with the JB4 interface program loaded and read the codes, after which I deleted them and tried to read the codes again. The second time, nothing showed up and I proceeded to start the car again. There was no check engine light or codes this time and I proceeded to drive the car for 15 miles on the highway to warm to up fully and experience the new power. To this day, everything has been great.

To be honest, I don't think that I will be able to pass inspection with the DP since the JB4 only prevents the check engine from being illuminated on the dash. I will have to reinstall the stock DP, drive with it for a few days (or 200 miles) and get the car inspected. Once I pass I can always reinstall the catless DP.

And I did use the green mint floss, which is why I think I experinced a much easier removal than others.
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      12-31-2014, 09:51 AM   #39
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Last edited by Mr Clean; 03-20-2015 at 08:18 PM..
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      12-31-2014, 10:46 AM   #40
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Great job, the car looks fantastic! And, thanks for all of the updates. Very, very informative post.
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      01-11-2015, 10:06 AM   #41
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hey mr clean i must say that your thread is top notch! couple questions, 1 is the only advantage to those flex fuel wires just to be able to run that fuel? i always run premium in mine so i was just wondering. and 2 is your dp catless? and do you have a sound clip of the exhaust with the dp?
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      01-11-2015, 10:27 AM   #42
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great thread!
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      01-11-2015, 12:15 PM   #43
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That's such a clean car, very impressive.
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      01-11-2015, 08:14 PM   #44
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Me likey.....
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